Lead acid battery not charging 7.1.2,recondition a battery,automotive battery repair z3x - Plans Download

If you own a motorcycle, a motor home, a caravan, a lawn mover, a day cruiser or maybe a vintage car you must at some point had to write off a lead acid battery. At test points A and B you would see approximately 18mV depending on the types of components used.
Slideshare uses cookies to improve functionality and performance, and to provide you with relevant advertising. Clipping is a handy way to collect and organize the most important slides from a presentation. This should clear up some of the confusion I have heard from some on how to identify different types of metals! You will undoubtably make very good use of the Spark Test… that is if you lean about the spark test. The magnet will become your weapon, and with it you will sort ferrous and non-ferrous metals.
Is often found in the form of pipe valves, fluid manifolds, decorative pieces, or instruments.
Because the grades of wire are not explicitly spelled out by the ISRI, they are usually graded different by every yard.
There are many different ways of grading copper wire, but what it really comes down to is percentage of copper that is within the wire.
Is an iron alloy with 18% chromium and 10% nickel, but is worth up to 50 cents more per pound depending on the yard. Are harder to sell to a scrap yard because they will not accumulate enough to find a buyer. You my have to shop around until you find a yard that will buy this for a great price without trying to screw you. Most carbide is actually Cemented Tungston Carbide Cobalt, or basically, Co with grains of WC in it.
If you already know your way around a scrap yard, check out the ISRI Scrap Specifications Circular.  This document will completely spell out all types of scrap, many of which yards do not even offer prices for, as well as scrap of all types including glass and plastic. Chromium scrap is a tough sell at most scrap yards because it is very rarely sold in pure elemental form. Boy, was I pissed off when I realized gutter nails were made from aluminum later that year. I never suggest you lie to a scrap yard, especially if it is a scrap yard that treats ya well.
It’s been my experience that on the non ferrous side of the smaller scrap yards, the employees buying are pretty uneducated on the alloys they are buying. I want to you to know that even if I can’t answer all of your questions right away, there are lot of friendly scrappers in our Scrap Metal Forum that would love to discuss anything scrap metal related (and other stuff) with you, myself included.
IF YOU WANT TO READ ALL OF THe SECRETS TO ISOLATING THE MOST EXPENSIVE PARTS OF YOUR SCRAP METALS, YOU MUST READ THE SCRAPPER’S HANDBOOK. When you get to the Scrap Yard, having all of your scrap sorted and in separate buckets will assure that you will get the best prices possible.
Yes i totaly agree but i have been going to that creek for a long time and those cars have just been sitting there. Even if it’s open to the public it is still owned by someone, you should be able to check your county auditors website to determine who owns the property. Yeah, I was watching Cops Reloaded on tv the other night, and there was a junk car just sitting in a vacant area. One more thing; here in NE Ohio, I am unable to find a scrap yard who will give me anything but one flat price for STEEL, Apparently, as far as they are concerned Tungsten, carbide and stainless are worth same as tin, galvanized and anything else a magnet will stick to. Before i even got in my truck to return to the scale, he called a front-end loader over to grab it and put it in a special bin.
WHICH BRINGS UP ANOTHER QUESTION I HAVE; are the scales at scrap yards subject to inspection by auditors from the bureau of weights and measures?
The truck scales are at least accurate to 10 pounds, and the small scales should be accurate to at least ±0.5pounds.
That is a special draft of the penny introduced to congress in 1974; It was rejected before ever getting into circulation. Hi I have been collecting aluminum, copper 1 2 3, brass and rads for 3 yrs now and I can not seem to get the aluminum sheeth off my overwellming amount of wire I have collected its time to collect on my collection.

In New Jersey there is a few small recyclers of alloys and non-ferrous metals called Dr.Copper. I’ve asked my neighbours but no-one knows anything about it, I suspect it was dumped overnight.
Post it on craigslist for free or wait for garbage day and flag down the first junk-man that passes by. When a battery is improperly charged or allowed to self-discharge as occurs during non-use, sulphate crystals build up on the battery's plates.
The object is to get the cell voltage high enough for the sulphate to dissolve without boiling or melting the battery. Working with electricity is dangerous for your life, especially diagrams related to high voltage! Before you leave please check out my must read page on HOW TO START SCRAPPING METAL!Check out the bottom of the page for a link to the ISRI scrap specification manual. This is the tool of the trade, some would say, and to be without one will make you seem like a fool. Some people like to strip the copper themselves and get full copper price, other like to just take it in as is. It was roughly $500 worth of aluminum in todays terms, which was a lot more aluminum more back then! But if a scrap yard is only willing to pay you junk price for pure chrome, then they are ripping you off! I think I am collecting up some good stuff, and the local yard has a website that has a lot of good info. Depositing: This is the final stage of sorting, when you finally have that clean piece of brass in your hand. If you left a lot of contamination on your sorted scrap (for example, leaving a brass valve in the middle of a copper pipe) then your scrap yard will generally only want to pay you the value of the least valuable item. If you are looking for a free way to advertise your scrap business, please add yourself to the classified ads section of our forum.
We have a lot of automotive aluminum (transmission cases, starter housings, intakes) and then some sheet aluminum as well and a lot of cans ( I know cans are not worth much but would painted sheel meal be about the same). If you can, you should definitely separate the different grades of aluminum, but try to contact the scrap yard to see what types of categories they have.
Unfortunately there is nothing you can do about it now except never patronizing that scrap yard again. I’ve tryd the hacksaw twist off and grinder cutting but is there any faster easier way. I recently was given a pickup load of computers, cards, hard drives, 2 boxes of pc power cords, old school laptops, key boards. Thank you for sharing this information in a straight forward and easy to comprehend manner. The sulphate preventing the battery from being fully charged and therefore it is unable to deliver its full capacity. This is achieved by applying higher voltage for shorter periods and let the battery rest for a while. I have a whole collection of magnets that I have tore out of different scrapped appliances and what not.
They should, hypothetically, agree with you, because it doesn’t spark and it is non-magnetic.
There is plenty that I am not sure of, or what to even do, but I dont expect you to answer all of my questions! In my garage, I have a large excess of 5 gallon buckets, 55 gallon trash cans, and even some larger containers. If you can help it, I suggest avoiding selling to those places because their pricing is generally inferior.
If this is the only scrap yard in your area, the only thing you can do is start your own scrap yard and compete with them! Originally I had started holding on to the canisters in hopes of creating a recycled-scrap art project.
When trying to charge a battery in this state it only gets hot and looses water, the gravity of the electrolyte is not increasing to its normal “full charge” state.

Microwaves, speakers, hard drives, and other electronics all have magnets you can pull out.
The one I have currently is this: how do I sort my scrap, meaning the pieces that are smaller?
Same with copper, I know you have a few diffrent catigories but we have a lot of coper wire (mostly stranded but all diff. My question is, knowing that it’s not chrome-plated, does this mean it’s pure chromium? It’s been several months since I started accumulating and my lab is now converting to dry (no chemicals) and so will no longer be taking film for development. The buckets will be where you drop the brass, copper, stainless steel pieces you harvest from your junk. I’ve gotten a fair amount, but not enough for the project, and will soon no longer be able to gain more. Start on long pulse and if you discover “boiling” (more than with normal charging) in the electrolyte switch to short puls. Unlike gel cell batteries that use a gelled electrolyte, AGM batteries still use the common water/acid electrolyte mixture, just like regular flooded cell batteries (such as the one in your car).
I have no access to a grinder to perform a spark test and I cannot find a source online that identifies the metal used.
Don’t leave the process unattended, at least until you know how your specific version of this project turns out. The difference is that AGM batteries have fiberglass matting sandwiched in between the lead plates.
I built ver.1 of this circuit some 10 years ago and have experimented with it but I’m sure someone can improve it further.
One is the matting prevents the electrolyte from sloshing around and spilling out in case the battery is inverted or put on its side. Some older chargers are equipped with fin rectifiers, which have high voltage drop and must be replaced. Another is that the plates can be made with a purer lead (which is softer and needs extra support) that permits higher efficiency.
If you are good at classifying metals, then you will soon only start isolating metals that will yield the most money.
A flooded cell battery does not have this feature and typically the hydrogen and oxygen simply vent into the atmosphere. The circuit; a 14-stage ripple counter and oscillator IC 4060 produce a pulse, which is the heartbeat of the circuit.
Over time this causes the electrolyte level to drop, thus preventing the battery from attaining full charge. The output of the 555 timer triggers the zero-cross optoisolator triac driver MOC 3041 via a transistor. Contrary to common belief, you actually can maintain these types of batteries, it just is not very common and the manufacturers would rather you didn't for a number of reasons. It is actually very easy to do as long as you are not squeamish about partially tearing your batteries apart. A small power supply is necessary for the circuit and consists of T1 a transformer 15V 0.1A secondary, a bridge rectifier, a regulator and two caps.
Because this project include a charger that is (X) the outcome can differ in performance from one case to another. Some notes the snubbercap is a high voltage AC type (X) and the resistors on the mains side is at least 0.5W type. Use a triac that can take 400V+ and 10A+, I use BTA 25.600 but this is overkill in most cases.

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