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So I was a total idiot and got distracted by someone talking to me, and left my key in the ignition in ON. Or you can get a buddy to help you bump start it and ride around, keep revs high and you should be good to go.
You might as well buy a battery tender, since you should leave your battery on one of these throughout the winter anyway.
Unless it's private, please post insurance-related questions in the forum rather than sending me a PM. I've never had an issue, but I prefer to use a boost pack that I bought from Canadian Tire, and I think the cranking amps are on the low side. You cannot charge a dead battery by riding, that's asking too much of your charging system. I do suggest that anytime you run your battery flat you should top it off with your trickle charger. The first gentleman is an industry specialist and sees worst case scenarios on a daily basis.
The second guy has never owned a POS bike and probably pays BMW or Honda for is dealership servicing.
YMMV, but when you find your bike stuck at Mosport after a weekend of low rpm riding and the battery is flat, I'll get you home whereas these to guys will get you a tow truck. 2001 Suzuki Bandit with a flaw in the ignition system that would drain the battery key in or out.
Same Bandit sitting in the garage after a collision with a deer in 2007, but the battery had dead cells and wouldn't charge. 2005 VFR, load tested the battery by leaving my ignition key in it, boosted this one, but it's a PITA to get to the battery compartment, so I resolved never to load test the battery again.
2004 Kawasaki KLR - I road with heated vest, heated grips and gps plugged in through a very cold Nova Scotia across the confederation Bridge to PEI to the Esso at the Borden Carleton station where I found that even with my 400 watt aftermarket stator, I was drawing too much current and the bike wouldn't start, so I walked it across the lot to the high side of the parking lot, had a run at it and bump started the bike after first unplugging everything for maximum charge. Now all of this being said, there are some bad things you can to your bike, so take their advice and ask around 'cause if you blow up your stator or rectifier and try to blame me, I'll just say too bad, RTFM.
After I charged up my battery with a 2A (recommended was 1.5) charger, I tested it immediately (after reinstalling my fairings and seat) and engine worked! Can a brand new battery lose its ability to keep its charge after it being left on for 2-3 hours max? Sometimes the voltage stored drops so low that the cranking amps aren't sufficient to develop a strong enough magnetic field in the primary and secondary windings of the coil, therefore you'd get the cranking of the engine, but the spark plugs wouldn't be getting enough juice from the coil or coils to make that spark jump the gap and ignite the fuel.

Ideally when the ignition is off the circuit is OPEN, but sometimes you may have a clock, or an alarm system, that may cause a tiny draw from the battery all the time. The battery itself is a circuit from pole to pole and contains a number of CELLS that have acid and lead plates.
The CELL03 provides a comprehensive means of testing the state of charge or state of power for over 15 different battery types. After enjoying the RIAA phono preamp for several weeks with the new battery pack, I decided to build the battery charger just not to be surprised by the lead-acid battery pack running out unexpectedly.
Here is a simple test on my workbench of the 18V battery set with a 20mA load to simulate the RIAA stage consumption.
About Bartola ValvesThis is my humble contribution to that warm and unique sound that the valves provide to our ears.
As an enthusiast of electronics, here is my repository around valves, hi-fi amplifiers and everything I found interesting to share related to music reproduction. Many of the devices described in this site use or generate potentially lethal electric currents. Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. Import charges previously quoted are subject to change if you increase you maximum bid amount. So when i went to start by bike after a couple hours, my bike clicked a couple times and then the battery croaked. I analyse claims patterns to determine overall rate changes, as well as relative premium differences by various risk characteristics (eg. And yes, I've boosted every bike I've owned, especially the KLR as I had a bad stator after 55,000kms. And can you please tell me why I can bump start the bike and charge the battery with mid to high rpm riding?
He's the first guy I'd ask which bikes SHOULDN'T I over charge or boost with too high an amperage. I rode with a boost pack strapped to the bike and boosted it when I couldn't bump start it in the parking lot.
Same 300A boost pack used to fire it up after sitting for a year and running the bike as part of the electrical system. After a twenty minute ride I parked it thinking that I may have to bump it in the morning or borrow my Brother-in-laws trickle charger in the morning.
As you continue to crank the engine over and expend more energy, the battery would no longer have sufficient charge to turn the starter motor, then later on operate the solenoid that engages the starter motor. Rather than simply displaying a voltage reading, cellchecker determines a battery's remaining power capacity by measuring its ability to maintain voltage levels while under load.
Using pulse load technology it is able to accurately determine a battery's percentage of remaining capacity.

The noise level is really low and is obvious that 3.3?V 50Hz hum is picked from the workbench.
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I hear u can get decent battery tenders at Canadian tire but I hate going to Canadian tire to get products for my bike so I got mine from a Honda powersports dealership in Mississauga. Typically you can boost your bike off of another bike battery, a boost pack or a car battery, but the car shouldn't be running.
I learned to park on the uphill side of the lot darned quickly until I could afford to replace the ignition switch assembly. Next morning it started fine, and it brought me back another two thousand kilometres to Ontario. The manufacturer designed the bike and battery to have XXXmilliamps load at rest with engine off and ignition off. The tester then makes an assessment based on these readings and displays the remaining percentage capacity of the battery. The initial current is as high as 370mA and drops as the battery charges and the voltage goes up. If you wish to begin a thread or post, please Click Here to Leave The Archives and return to GTAMotorcycle main forums.
You can measure this load by checking the current between the red cable and the red terminal of the battery with a multimeter in series. I monitor the FFT with no average and lower FFT size and also couldn’t see any spikes due to chemical reactions.
You may NOT build from information on this page for commercial profit without a royalty agreement with the author in place. The duration and repetition of the load test cycle varies depending on the battery type being tested. Possibly a faulty switch or harness connection that is keeping the circuit CLOSED instead of open. Factors that are considered when determining the size and duration of the pulse load are battery design (high rate or low rate), battery chemistry, and the battery's typical application.
It could be a cut in the harness where an exposed wire is rubbing the grounded frame, bad ignition switch, whatever. This helps ensure that the power demand on the battery during the pulse load test will be comparable to what the battery experiences under normal operation conditions.

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