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19.01.2014
The S-AFCII intercepts the air flow signal (volume or mass) and increases or decreases it before the engine control unit (ECU) "sees" the signal. The A'PEXi S-AFCII "kit" consists of the items shown in the photograph below: the control unit, a wiring harness, manuals and instructions, a mounting bracket, some electric coupling pieces, and a little bit of Velcro.
The A'PEXi S-AFCII is an airflow signal converter that has the following features and functions when installed on our DOHC models, which send a Karman-type airflow signal to the ECU. A dot matrix Vacuum Fluorescent Display (VFD) for graphical and numeric real-time parameter display.
Separate airflow correction factors, from -50% to +50% with 1% steps, at each rpm set point for Low and High throttle openings. Monitors engine rpm, throttle position, input airflow signal (Karman frequency), battery voltage, and knock sensor.
After I installed the S-AFCII (and the ARC2 and ARM1, which also tapped into the ECU wires) I became aware of a very handy patch harness available from Autosport Wiring and Boomslang Fabrication specifically for our cars (and many others). One of the main reasons for installing the S-AFCII, or any other airflow signal interceptor (ASI) such as the HKS Super AFR or GReddy e-Manage, or a MAS conversion kit (Split Second ARC2-GP, Full Throttle Speed & Style MAF-Translator, PRO-M Karman-Vortex Air Meter Conversion Kit, Performance Motor Research MAP-ECU, HKS Vein Pressure Converter), or one of the "standalone" setups (AEM, for example), is because you have installed larger injectors and larger turbos on your car. When you install a boost controller you deny the ECU the ability to reduce boost in response to knock. Part of your new responsibilities for engine management will be to learn how the ECU works with a factory setup, that is, before you install the S-AFCII and larger injectors. If I can offer a bit of advice when installing devices like the S-AFCII, I suggest making one change to the engine at a time.
If you want to try tapping the ECU wires without removing the ECU, just perform steps 1 through 3 below. After you make the jumper wires and attach connectors to the S-AFCII harness, test for continuity with the volt-ohm meter to be sure the terminals are properly attached.
The upper picture below shows the S-AFCII brown wire spliced into the ECU ground wire (white arrow) and the S-AFCII black wire spliced into the ECU ground wire a little farther away (yellow arrow), as A'PEXi instructs. From this location I routed the control unit piece of harness around the center console toward the glove box. Except for the small gif and jpg images, the content, images, photographs, text, and multimedia displayed are Copyright ©2000-2005 by Jeff Lucius and K2 Software.
Firstly before, working on any component of your car stereo system, cut off the car’s negative battery cable.
Now if the amplifier and stereo are kept separate, connect them together with RCA cables, which are the two-pronged cables along with the red and white plugs.
In crimping, wires are twisted together as they assemble alongside and then their leads are put in a crimping cap and finally the cap is tightened through a crimping tool. Mount the solid black cable under a screw on the chassis or else under another metal ground. If your wrench is on the positive terminal and it accidentally touches anything metal, you will short circuit the battery.
If you disconnect the negative cable first, and reconnect it last, then the car is not electrically connected to the negative battery terminal. While connecting or disconnecting the negative cable, you don't need to worry about the wrench touching metal parts of the car, because everything is at the same electrical potential. Side-terminal batteries, common on General Motors products, require a small socket or wrench to remove the battery cables.
The industry standard with automotive wiring is Black = Ground (which is negative), and Red = Hot (which is positive). This can be confusing when compared with wire used in buildings, where black (and other colors) are hot, and white is neutral, which has the same potential as ground. Dirt on the surface of a car battery can create a pathway for a tiny amount of electricity to flow between the terminals. To prevent the radio from losing its preset stations, I decided to try using this 12 volt portable power supply to keep power supplied to the car while the battery is removed.
I connected the black alligator clip to the engine, and the red clip to the positive battery cable. The arms (arrow) go underneath the cable end clamp, and the center pushes against the terminal post on the battery. Under the cap there is (or was) a round brush to clean the inside surface of the cable end clamp. My first car had no battery hold-down clamp or strap, and since I drove like a freakin' yahoo the battery slid off its tray and rested against the alternator. I sprayed some diluted Simple Green on the battery and used a small nylon brush to scrub the dirt and oily residue. I wondered if silicone dielectric terminal grease was meant for battery terminals, so I read the package that I had in my supply of automotive chemicals. I applied some dielectric grease to the battery terminals and spread it around with my finger.
I also applied a thin film of dielectric grease to the inside surface of the battery cable ends. The good news: By connecting the portable power supply to the positve cable (and grounding the black clamp to the engine) I did not need to re-program the stations on my car radio. A clean battery with clean connections will provide the greatest possible cranking power on cold winter mornings. I think it's a good idea to do this battery maintenace once a year, preferably before cold weather sets in.
Many years ago, when I was 19 and knew nothing about fixing cars, I reasoned that a recent invention called silicone caulking might work to patch a small hole or crack in the plastic case of a car battery. Power Mad Unless you want to plug the radio into an outlet to recharge it at home every time the battery goes dead, you’ll need to power it from the car. Alternatively, you can tap into the car’s power directly but it’s a little more complicated. Take a fuse out of the fuse box and plug Add-A-Fuse in, using a circuit that turns off when the car is off so the charging radio doesn’t drain the car’s battery. 5.     Plug the car kit’s cigarette lighter adapter into the female end of the extension cord that you just wired into the fuse box. This article over complicates a rather simple easy and straight forward task.Simply put, Anyone in the market for a newer Sattelite radio will easily be able to purchase an "all in one" kit that will come with mounts and the wires necessary to do this, with easy instructions (that all fit on one page! Okay, so I've been doing car install professionally for about 7 years now, and that SureConnect is a pile of garbage. Naturally, the more thought out and intricate the installation, the more attractive the final product.
This can be used to compensate for larger-than-stock fuel injectors and to fine-tune the air-fuel mixture. An optical sensor is on the front of the case (upper right corner) to optionally automatically adjust display brightness.
Alternatively, you could solder the wire (tap) connections then wrap them or maybe use shrink tube. Autosport Wiring wants $139 for 1990-1993 ECUs and $159 for 1994-1998 ECUs; Boomslang charges $139 for all models.
I took Bob Melton's advice (Bob's S-AFCII install) and mounted the control unit in front of the central AC vents using the supplied mounting bracket. When you install an ASI or MAS converter you are telling the ECU that a different amount of air is flowing than there really is.
The wiring diagram above showing the back of the connectors will now match your view of the three connectors and their wires. Therefore, I also placed the connector end of the separate harness in the passenger's foot well and passed the loose wires end of the harness through the open area in front of the floor console and over to the driver's side area. As most aftermarket speakers are not designed particularly for your car; so you have to find some place in your car to install them, for instance you can install them behind the rear seats. If your car speakers are wired to an electrical connector (connecting them to the stereo), simply connect this connector. Then you will use a stereo mounting bracket otherwise a car mounting bracket (may be their combination) to mount the stereo inside the dashboard.


On the other way, soldering the wires requires twisting their leads together as they position to one another, then a soldering gun is used with the solder touching the wire and finally leads are insulated by means of heat-shrinking tubes. Mostly, the gray wires are connected with the right front speaker, the white wires with the left front speaker, purple wires with the right rear and green ones with the left rear.
Its red wire is used for switched power and connects it to the wiring harness on the starter of your car. The voltage isn't harmful, but the sudden unexpected sparks will startle the $hit out of you, and could even burn you.
After that you can disconnect the positive battery terminal with minimal risk, because if your wrench touches any metal parts of the car there is no complete circuit, and nothing happens. There were two very long bolts (red arrow) that secured the bracket to the body of the truck. The alternator pully carved a nice little groove in the side of the battery case, allowing half the battery acid to leak out of one cell. This will make it easier to read when I'm jump-starting someone's car on a cold dark winter night. Then I went to my local garage and paid a whole dollar for them to top-up the acid in the leaking cell.
The easiest set-up uses the cigarette lighter adapter that came in the car installation kit. The wire coming out of Add-A-Circuit is the positive lead for your sat radio and a grounding wire to the frame of the car is the negative one.
Take the car installation kit’s cigarette lighter adapter and put it in a working cigarette lighter. All it does is measure voltage so you just need to make sure that the two probes make good contact with the wires you’re measuring. With everything connected, start the car and touch the multi-meter’s probes to the dock’s power plug exactly the way you did it earlier. He works out of the suburban New York City area and has covered topics from nuclear power plants and Wi-Fi routers to cars and tablets.
He didn't go the "simple, easy, straight forward" installation because, frankly, that way looks like crap. Unless you only have one vehicle and NEVER intend to use it elsewhere, why throw your money away? Other color combinations are available: silver case with blue display, silver case with black display. By using the devices listed above, you have taken on the responsibility of protecting your engine from damage or destruction. This means the ECU cannot accurately control the air-fuel mixture for the real set of engine operating conditions, leading perhaps to a dangerous lean condition.
See my Datalogging Links for selected OBDII dataloggers and more info about datalogging (all years). The first three diagrams show the connector configurations and terminal numbers for the three different types of ECU connectors. For ignition-switched +12V power (IG1) and ground (GND) there are two or more terminals to choose from. You could try using a screwdriver like shown in one picture below to loosen the connectors while the ECU is still in place. The ECU is retained by two bolts on the left side (driver's side) and one bolt on the right side (passenger's side). Because I already have several taps on the "left" connector, which contains pins 51 to 72, for the ARC2-GP and ARM1s, I'll use the middle and "right" connectors as examples. Eventually (next section), connect the jumpers to the ECU wires using the splice technique A'PEXi recommends or quick-splice connectors.
You may need a small paper clip to make contact with the terminals inside the S-AFCII wiring harness. No part, section, image, photo, article, or whole of this site may be reposted or redisplayed without permission of the authors. It may require some effort to install an audio system in your car which usually depends on its type and type of your car as well. Next pry off the trim panels from the instrument panel, by using a flat-bladed tool although it may require some other tool in case of other types of vehicles. For instance you can run the wires through the crack in between the back seat and wall, through an available hole in the firewall, and along the floorboard. If it is not the case then you have to connect the wires by crimping or else soldering the wires together. The cables having black band of color normally go to the negative leads and the plain ones are connected with the positive.
The yellow wire is used for constant power and is mounted underneath the positive terminal of the battery.
There is so much current (amperage) available that your wrench literally becomes an arc welder. Corrosion can increase the resistance of the electrical connection, which can prevent the battery from charging properly. But I've been doing this for years and my car batteries usually last 5 or 6 years before they need to be replaced.
It comes with its own fuse and, once you plug it in, it adds an electrical circuit to your car for the radio. Using your multi-meter to measure voltage, touch the probes to the inner and outer sections of the plug that powers the dock to see which is positive and negative.
The typical car’s electrical system uses between 12 and 14 volts and the cigarette lighter adapter that we’re using delivers roughly 5.5 volts to the radio. Suction cup mounts and random cigarette lighter adapters clutter up an interior and generally look lame, nevermind the crap sound quality you get from an FM modulator.I'm with Brian.
I've got a mount in all three of my vehicles that I've wired the antenna's, power, and audio cable to.
I am not sure how, or if, the control unit can distinguish between a frequency-based hot-wire MAS (for example many GM MAS's) or a voltage-modulated hot-wire MAS (for example many Ford MAS's). Parameters can be engine rpm, Karman frequency, throttle position percent, knock sensor output, airflow correction setting, and battery voltage. You will also need a 4-mm hex key and pliers to tighten the fastener on the supplied mounting bracket. Because airflow reported by the ASI is less than actual flow when larger injectors are installed, the ECU thinks engine load is less and so may keep timing advance higher than it should and may use a different target air-fuel ratio during acceleration.
Do not identify wires by color alone because not all color coding is unique (for example, there are many white wires). On the driver's side you may need to move a piece of the harness first to get good access to the bolts. Just touch some metal part on the car like part of the body or the metal frame of the floor console. Instead, make short pieces of wires with a disconnect terminal on one end, and splice the other end into the ECU wire.
I added colored electrical tape to the jumpers and S-AFCII harness and labels on masking tape to the S-AFCII harness to help avoid confusion. The control unit has it's own short piece of harness that connects to the longer harness that connects to the ECU.
Triple check all your work then wrap electrical tape around the inline disconnect terminals. As you slide the ECU into place look from the driver's side foot well and line up the tab on the passenger's side of the bracket.
Of course, if there is smoke, a funny smell, sparks, or fire immediately (if not sooner) disconnect the negative battery terminal and fix the problem. Although it is not impossible to carry out this job and you can do it with a little effort. In case if you are installing a stereo and amplifier, both would be connected to the battery but only the stereo is required to connect with the starter.


Corroded battery connectors can create so much voltage drop that the car's starter motor cranks slowly or not at all.
If it doesn’t match the polarity that you wrote down earlier, remove the tape from one of the connections and reverse the wires. Buy a vehicle specific mount, wire up an extra power source and tuck it out of sight, use the audio jack provided by the factory for the best sound quality, and keep the unsightly pimple antenna on the inside. Takes about 10 seconds to drop my radio into any of the vehicles and it's a nice clean install.
However, they can be used for all other DOHC model years by selecting the correct engine control unit (ECU) wires for the target 3S model.
In any case, these instructions assume the S-AFCII is intercepting a Karman-type volume air flow signal. Rather than use the Velcro supplied with the kit I used "Industrial Strength" Velcro (bought at Home Depot) to fasten the control unit to the bracket.
John Adams presents another way to mount the control unit near the central AC vent, and he has additional installation and adjusting tips, John's S-AFC install. Start logging and just drive around like you normally do, including stop, start, idling, cruising at different speeds, and acceleration. I determined the terminal assignments for the various years by referring to my printed versions of the 1992 Stealth, 1992-1996 3000GT, and 1999 3000GT Service Manuals. In the next two sections I'll show you how to get to the ECU and its harness and then how to tap the ECU harness wires. Press down on the release arm in the middle of each connector and slide the connector away from the ECU. Two wires (power and ground) need to be tapped on the "right" connector, which contains pins 1 to 26. This will let you remove the S-AFCII if necessary with minimal impact on the factory wiring.
Together, there is plenty of length to mount the control unit about anywhere inside the cabin. If your wiring passed the first test, turn the ignition switch to "ON" (do not attempt to start the engine!).
In addition, my 1992 Dodge Stealth TT already had an ARC2-GP hot-wire mass airflow sensor (MAS) conversion installed (as well as other electronics that tapped into the ECU harness). You may need a drop light to get adequate illumination in the driver's foot well as you work on the ECU wires. In the "Adjusting the S-AFCII" section, 2-safcii-adjust.htm#j7, I'll tell you what to look for in these datalogs.
If the S-AFCII is the only airflow signal interceptor installed then the "airflow in" wire will be coming directly from the MAS rather than from the ARC2-GP (or similar device).
The A'PEXi installation manual is adamant about not using "electro-taps" saying they are "unstable".
The snap connector fits around the factory wire and the short wire you made slides into the quick-splice connector. I used Bob Melton's suggestion and slid the supplied bracket under the central AC vent and used Velcro to attach the control unit to the bracket. The S-AFCII cannot be used to convert a mass flow signal to a volume flow signal, that is, it cannot be used to convert the signal from a Ford or GM MAS to the Karman signal required by our ECU. I put a piece of scrap carpet and thin panel of wood in the foot well so that the drop light did not melt the factory carpet. The ECU monitors engine knock and tries to reduce or eliminate it by reducing boost, by reducing timing, and by adding extra fuel. Leave it in place and tap the wires with an analog or digital voltmeter (look at the service manual for which to use for which wires) by prying open the access covers on the back of the connectors (identified as a "flap" in a photo below).
A'PEXi recommends instead to peel off 5 mm of insulation from the ECU wires (I had no luck doing this with the tools I had at hand) and wrap 10 mm of the new wire around this exposed ECU wire. You will not need jumper wires for the ECU airflow signal wire because you will be cutting this wire and attaching crimp-on connectors (one male and one female) directly to these two pieces of wire.
Clean the bracket and the back of the control unit with electrical parts cleaner before attaching the Velcro. For our car, the signal going into the S-AFCII must be a Karman signal (a frequency modulated square-wave) so that the S-AFCII sends a Karman signal to our ECU. Be sure to install "matching" connectors on the two pieces of this wire so that if the S-AFCII is removed the two pieces of wire can be connected back together to restore factory-like wiring and operation. Then you will have to slide the panel forward to slide it off a connector near the back of the panel. If you have a 1991 to 1994 model (and maybe even an early 1995 model) you may want to take this opportunity to inspect the inside of the ECU for leaking capacitors. There are some bullet crimp-on connectors supplied in the S-AFCII kit (be sure to use two of these for the airflow signal wire at the ECU), but you will need a few more (sized for 18-22 AWG wire). The metal piece inside the connector will cut through the factory wire and your new wire, electrically connecting them together. This type of mount also allows you to easily remove the control unit and conceal it, perhaps in the locked glovebox. You will need to perform the initial setup described in the A'PEXi instruction manual and reviewed at 2-safcii-adjust.htm#j6. Hell, every new Hyundai comes standard with satellite radio.Gotta put in a plug for the Jason Ellis Show. The ECU monitors engine load and if it guesses that too much air is flowing, that is, that boost is too high, it cuts fuel to the engine. The method I used, and the one shown here, is to use quick-splice connectors, the "electro-taps" A'PEXi warns against. If the meter reads 0L (be sure you are touching both ends of the same wire) then there is an open (no continuity) and the connector must be removed and a new one attached.
These assignments are from the viewpoint of looking at the back of the connectors after they are removed from the ECU.
If the meter reads many ohms then there is either poor contact of the connector and wire or of the meter probe and wire or terminal. While on the passenger's side, secure the extra S-AFCII harness wires into a bundle with tape or cable ties and place in the area between the two floor console covers. The ECU also manages the air-fuel mixture during low engine loads using a feedback system to minimize exhaust emissions.
I decided to use terminal #12 for ignition-switched (IG1) +12 V power, instead of terminal #25 that A'PEXi suggests. If you are unfamiliar with quick-splice connectors, be sure they are sized for wire in the 18-22 AWG range and practice with some scrap wire first. Re-position the meter probes and paper clip before concluding the connector is poorly installed.
Place one VOM probe at the end of your jumper wire (the end that will plug into the S-AFCII harness wire) and using a paper clip to connect the other meter probe to the terminal inside the ECU connector. The picture below shows the knee protector removed from below the steering column (part of the Scanmaster 3 installation). This is not strictly a safety feature but does provide the benefits of reduced carbon build-up and increased gas mileage. If there is an open (0L on the meter) the quick-splice connector may have broken the factory wire. Note that if your car is a 1994 or newer model, you will need to follow the pin assignments and connector configuration described in the "Wiring Diagrams" section above.
In the picture below the three wires have been separated from the bundles and the bundles re-taped.



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