How to wire a car battery kill switch kit,how to change a car battery jeep xj,walmart auto battery warranty - You Shoud Know

Did a quick google search;You need to get a kill switch that has the additional connections to protect the alternator. The only problem with going for your "red" option is that when you hit the kill switch the alternator will still be producing power and could keep the engine running.
Hi, I have not had any dealings with FIA kill switches so was not sure how they were wired internally. I would put an additional fuse in the red option, near as practical to the solenoid to protect the red wire just in case it chafes or the alternator itself goes wrong. Given the wiring diagram below, can I place a simple single-pole switch in the circuit that runs around the left and top of the diagram, either right before or right after the big 200A fuse? Keep in mind that the kill switch must not only stop the engine but should isolate vehicle wiring from the battery to minimize a fire threat.
My confusion about the Pegasus diagram is that there is no simple wire from the ignition switch to the coil in my car. The resistor circuit is there primarily to protect the contacts of the main circuit (and really should be used on any car, regardless of what charging system you have). Further, if the field circuit of an alternator stays energized (as it can with a charning system) then it can harm the alternator. So, by running the field circuit of the alternator through the NO circuit with resistor, you resolve both problems. Therefore, with an alternator, if you cut off the battery only then as the field circuit voltage drops the alternator tries to out out more and more voltage. However, if you open this field circuit with a switch or relay then the alternator sees zero voltage and drops offline. Either way works fine, simply choose the method that is most convenient for your car and kill switch location.
Now, just out of curiosity, what harm is caused during this duration of time if the alternator main circuit is still connected to the battery, as my original question asked?
If the car is running, and the alternator is producing output, that output will be going straight to the battery on wire 1, and then from the battery to the ignition system on wire 2. If I put a switch in the middle of wire 2, then when that circuit is broken, there will be no voltage on the field circuit, either from the battery or from the alternator, because both the alternator and the battery are upstream of the switch.

You will have to remove those two wires from the battery, attach them to a common block, run a cable from that block to the kill switch (or run the two wires on ring terminals to one side of the switch), then from there to the battery. The wire for the power to the fuel pump is located at the fuse panel in the trunk and is red with a green stripe (at least in the ’84 911). Now that all of this is complete, I’m beginning my week-long project of Liquid Wrenching the exhaust nuts in order to install the headers onto my vehicle in the coming week or two. This entry was posted in Vehicular Adventures and tagged 911, install, mechanic, mechanic tomfoolery, money pit, porsche, porsche 911, problem solving, repairs, Vehicular Adventures by Lane. Having the starter connected directly to the battery save some cables since the starter cable is so thick. The only wire hooked up to the positive side of the battery, goes to the "Kill Switch", End of story ! So you connect your starter directly to the batteri (as in the picture) A and not via a kill switch? From what I understand a lot of people connect the alternator to the battery directly (via a fuse if you want). So you connect your starter directly to the batteri (as in the picture) and not via a kill switch?Why would I like to use a remote starter relay? You haven't eliminated any failure modes by running that big-donkey starter wire through the kill switch.A  All you've done is put a potential source of high energy discharge that much closer to the driver. You haven't eliminated any failure modes by running that big-arse starter wire through the kill switch.A  All you've done is put a potential source of high energy discharge that much closer to the driver. If I read this right it sounds like you are powered up, but the starter has to have the solenoid jumped for the starter to work.
This is so that it still remains connected to the battery in the event of the isolator being turned off when engine running as this can sometimes damage an alternator.
Looking at the diagrams on google none of them have a fuse in the alternator line, assuming that the switch is up to it I would think the fuse able link at the battery would be good. ColinAs far as I can gather, when you turn the kill switch to OFF it disconnects the battery and "2" terminals, whilst connecting "1" terminals.Therefore, the alternator charge feed goes through the resistor to earth, in turn protecting the alternator.
So, if it earths the power cable through a resistor then your "Red" option will be OK because it keeps heavy power cable runs to a minimum.

I've got an 80A "midi" fuse on mine which comes in a neat plastic case with proper screw terminals.Take it the Honda alternator doesn't need a sense wire ("S" and "L" pins in a two wire plug)? If you simply open up such a high-current circuit as the battery, that load has to go somewhere; without the resistor circuit it arcs the contacts of the main switch. You disconnect that battery from the equation and you run the risk of alternator damage or possibly runaway. From a safety aspect, theoretically an alternator-equipped car can continue to run with the battery disconnected. If it does, ideally but not essential, it wants its own run back to the battery and a separate 5A fuse at the battery end. I lack enough time to give you more detail, but that Pegasus sourced diagram is concise and correct, may just be some hlepful hints for a electro-newbie!
If that secondary circuit, the field circuit, gets low on voltage the alternator puts out more; if it gets high, less. If you haven't relocated your battery then your going to need to run some 2g cable from the positive terminal to one side of the switch.
Also the coil wire power up should have either a switch or a easy way to kill it when engine is running in case it needs shut down in a hurry. Put it close to the battery, so the long run of the heavy battery cable will be energized only when you engage the starter. I don't think it's any less safe than wiring the starter circuit all the way back through the switch.
I also run my alt charge cable directly to the battery (through a mega-fuse), and switch the excitor wire through the kill switch.
The remote solenoid is basically acting as a separate kill switch for your starter circuit. Much safer than having your big starter cable running through your car hot all the time, IMO.

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