How to change a car battery honda civic 2009,battery cost for volt,battery life low iphone 5 - Downloads 2016

02.12.2014
The old Nanorex cluster and my Al Foster-phase Pearl Prestige Session kit.  Click on either for a larger image. If you lost this card, print and shove into the glove box.  You will eventually find it handy. Now, when I say CDI I mean Capacitor Discharge Ignition, but I am also lumping in all types of ignitions that don't use points.
The reason I'm telling you all this, is to give you an idea of the amount of hassle these things can be. The shop manual will give you the color of the wires to test and the correct resistance too.
Location and descriptions of the fuses of the under-hood fuse box for 1.7L 2001-2004 Honda Civic DX, EX, and LX. Via email, text message, or notification as you wait on our site.Ask follow up questions if you need to. Tory Johnson, GMA Workplace Contributor, discusses work-from-home jobs, such as JustAnswer in which verified Experts answer people’s questions. What I'm confused about is why the pigtail from the #2 spot has to be attached to the bolt on the back where the wire that connects it to the battery goes.
I didn't come across anything with running that pigtail there, I just was curious as to why before I did or didn't put it on. For simplicity you can connect the #2 connector pigtail directly to the "batt" terminal on the alternator.
If you are converting from a 3wire 10SI to a 1 wire regulator you can hook up all your stock connectors, and run it as is. Oh, I'm a bit sketchy on the battery light warning, I haven't come across anything it's wired to inbetween, from what I can see it looks like it's wired from the generator regulator to the starter relay to the light. And I'm converting to an alternator, I've been using a generator but after testing everything else, the battery light still stays on. You need a special bulb receptacle; it can't have one side grounded like a regular lighting bulb. I'm a HUGE fan of the HVAC system in this car and its efficiency BUT I'm not so impressed by the mechanical actuation right this minute.. I try to be thorough with my issues because there's nothing more annoying people no knowing what they're talking about when they ask questions. The arm should have roughly 90 degrees of movement from closed to open (full cold to full hot). If you have that much travel, then the blend actuator is probably working (with the fan on full blast you should also be able to hear changes in the air flow within the heater case as the blend door changes position).
Manually confirm where the arm stops and compare to where the cable stopped at both ends of travel.
If the water valve can't completely shut off the flow of antifreeze through the heater core, you won't get ice cold air at the vents. By actuator I mean the electric motor that operates the mechanisms, also might be called a servo. Blend door might also be called 'air mix' door, just as the actuator might be labeled 'air mix motor' in the service manual. If the cable moves when you change the dial from hot to cold, then the actuator MUST be moving. If the arm of the valve makes about a 90 degree sweep, the actuator and at least part of its linkage is still working correctly.
Whether or not it is still operating the blend door inside the HVAC housing is yet to be determined (that's why I said to listen for change in air as the door position changes).
You can DIY the checking positions at the top of that post where I said to have someone else turn the temp **** too. You leave the HVAC system set on maximum heat, then you manually shut off the flow of the hot antifreeze by closing the valve by hand (cable previously disconnected).
If you still have heat output after a couple minutes then the valve is not shutting off the flow of hot antifreeze.


ALSO a good test to see if the actuator itself has any other function other than moving the water valve.
You see this when you operate the defrost: The AC runs whenever the defrost is selected but you can always control the temperature as hot as you want. The "doors" inside the HVAC system are simply opening and closing different air passages through the housing to direct air flow.
If the AC compressor is running, the air is dried and cooled, then continues into the heater area.
If the temperature selected is "cold", then the conditioned air continues through to the vents without being heated first----because the blend door causes the air flow to bypass the heater core, and the heater core has no hot antifreeze flowing through it.. If "hot" is selected, the airflow is routed through the heater core to be heated using the hot antifreeze. I may not have clearly stated but I was having some doubts that there even WAS a "blend door". Thanks to that beautifully coherent final paragraph of yours, I'm now convinced that the heat ISN'T shutting off rather than being convinced that the evaporator is being blocked off. If you want to visualize what goes on inside the heater housing, you can probably find good diagrams on google image search. I can't find a good diagram of the insides of an actual Honda heater system, so maybe you can use this one from a Ranger to give a generic idea of how a typical door system works. In my 10 years at this small dealer, I personally have not seen problems with the doors inside the heater housing. On other Hondas I have seen a few water valves bad though, due to the steel screw rusting and breaking the plastic shaft apart (the screw attaches the arm to the shaft of the valve). It is almost impossible to believe that there is no piston or cylinder wall damage from a timing chain letting go at 55mph. I don't usually say this, because I feel there's a lot of self-entitlement these days, but I really would raise hell and let Dodge fix this. Your dealer really dropped the ball on this one, and an example needs to be made so they don't do that crap again. I have so much fun driving to and from work that the actual speed doesn't matter that much (Can't afford tickets anyway). The dealer said he needed new heads and I said he would be lucky if thats all that was damaged from a timing chain breaking at 55mph.
Many times I've read factory bulletins telling their people in the field to be more careful.
It is nice to know that this service is here for people like myself, who need answers fast and are not sure who to consult.
I liked that I could ask additional questions and get answered in a very short turn around.
Not only did you answer my questions, you even took it a step further with replying with more pertinent information I needed to know. Is that port (hard to see on the picture, but there is a male connection sticking out from it) with the nut surrounded by the black the same thing or something different? Probably a "well duh" question, but it's been way too hot lately and it totally kills my reasoning when I do electric, lol. Having said that, Is it possible that there is NO bypass over the heater core to get to the evap and they're both running at the same time? How long should it take for the air to switch back to nominal outside temperature after switching from HOT to COLD with AC OFF? I know the actuator for it operated the water valve but that's only because I can SEE that.
They had just started digging into it and mainly talked about the heads because they are having to wait on those.
That battery also has to run the starter, lights, radio, and other stuff in addition to the ignition. I ask because he mentioned connecting the black wire to the #1 but had it as "R" too and I didn't know if they where sepperate, even though it's clear it was the same on his, I just didn't know if it was something apart on mine.


If the regulator is damaged, the #1 terminal provides ground, and the warning lamp will light. You have to remember, on all electrical things, they test either bad or they might be good. Check and clean all the ground connections and make sure the kill button is working right too. Sometimes you can get the part off a working bike and substitute it for the part in question. At the risk of looking uneducated, it DOES help me thoroughly learn and understand the problem. Also, remember some bikes have safety kill switches at the clutch lever, the side stand, and who knows where.
ALSO a good test to see if the actuator itself has any other function other than moving the water valve. I wish I could tell you I know everything about motorcycle electronic ignitions, but, well, after working on these things since they first came out I can categorically state that I don't know 'nothing about them. The black box coordinates everything and tells the ignition coil when to fire the spark plug.
This is something to remember when you rebuild an engine that blew up for seemingly no reason. If I can manually close water valve and move temp to cool, then turn AC on and get ice cold air, I'd be able to confirm the system works solely on air resistance and the mechanical water valve.
So I'll just ramble on about them for a while, and if you read real carefully, you will know as little as I do !
Check each Ohm reading several times and remember most specs give a temperature to check at, usually 70 degrees.
They complained that a lot of those mechanics did detailed, expensive tests, instead of just popping the plug cap back on.
If you let the bike sit a long time or the battery is weak, you may not get a full 12 volts. If the light looks bright and steady when the misfire occurs, then the problem is in carburetion. Long story short, I finally ended up talking to the owner of a business that made aftermarket, replacement, snowmobile CDI boxes.
There are all kinds of ways of doing this and you can use different tools, like plug caps with lights on them. He told me all the factory specs were wrong, and gave me some new specs that he said sometimes worked and as he was very knowledgeable about electronic ignitions I asked him what tester he used.
Fortunately, most of the electronic ignition units are quite reliable and require no service, but this plus turns to a minus when they do go bad.
He said for each new CDI box design his company bought an engine, and modified it so they could run it with an electric motor. Anyway, the starter is spinning but the ignition is not getting enough volts to fire the spark plug. To top it off, most motorcycle CDIs are expensive to replace, and when they go out, the bikes are too old to justify the expense of replacement. Customers could send in their factory CDI boxes and he could test them to see if they were good. Kawasaki and Suzuki both sometimes give specs and sometimes defer to special factory testers.
Make sure you have a good, fully charged battery in the machine before you start hunting for ignition problems. Make sure there is no spilt gasoline or other flammable mixtures on or near that Spark Tester.



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Comments How to change a car battery honda civic 2009

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  2. GULER
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  3. E_L_I_F
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