Good car battery for audio system upgrade,black & decker smart car battery charger review,which battery is right for my car - Step 2

Adding a high powered car audio system to your vehicle could definitely make your driving sessions much more enjoyable, but it can also do some damage to the electrical system if you do not upgrade. The main function of your cars battery is to start the vehicle and provide power when the vehicle is not on. The alternator is the primary source of power when the vehicle is running and the single most important modification you can make when upgrading your electrical system.
Car audio capacitors are a great addition to any aftermarket car audio system that is in need of a little extra power. Upgrading your electrical system is one of the most overlooked aspects when adding a high powered car audio sound system to your vehicle. This page will cover as many different system configurations as possible (until I get tired of drawing the diagrams). These first few diagrams will allow you to get a good clear look at all of the connections on the devices which will come later later on this page.
In this diagram, you see that the front speakers are being driven from the HU's internal amplifier and a pair of rear speakers are being powered by an external amplifier.
Since most amplifier are capable of driving 2 pairs of speakers, I would strongly recommend driving all of the speakers from the external amplifier.
This system has a better chance of sounding good than the system which had the amplifier driving the rear full range speakers.
This diagram shows how you'd connect 2 amplifiers if the amplifiers had internal crossovers. In this diagram we see that we have a seperate amplifier for the front, rear and low frequency speakers. If you're interested in air rifles, this site will introduce you to the types of rifles available and many of the things you'll need to know to shoot accurately. This site helps anyone new to computers and anyone with a basic understanding of computers with a desire to learn more about the internal components of a computer.
This site is for those who want to begin racing karts but don't fully understand how the various parts work. Multi-channel amplifiers are essentially the same as a stereo amplifier except for the fact that they have more than 2 channels. As you can see on the 4 channel amplifier below, there are 4 input jacks and 4 sets (+&- terminals) of corresponding speaker output terminals. There is also an input selector which allows you to use only 2 inputs to drive all 4 channels without having to use all 4 input jacks. In this diagram, you can see that one set of pre out jacks from the head unit are connected to the front inputs of the amplifier.
This diagram shows how you might use the amplifier with both the front and rear channels bridged. This diagram shows how you could use the 4 channel amplifier on the high frequency speakers and a second amplifier on the subs. I just did this installation for a customer a few days ago.  At first I thought it was a fairly straight forward installation.
I usually like to install amps underneath the passenger seat or driver seat for several reasons.
First problem we encounter is because the OEM audio system is a two piece system so there is an external amplifier hidden somewhere. Since newer Chevy cars doesn’t use regular accessory signal at the radio, I also needed to hunt down the accessory signal directly from key ignition so the amplifier only turns on when the key is at accessory.
I have put in some polyester filling inside the sub box to try to squeeze out as much deep end bass as possible. And because I know that 300watt RMS power is going to be louder than we needed so we can handle the little bit of volume loss from stuffing. If you are looking for tailgating ideas and information on the tailgate party lifestyle, you have come to the right place. It looks like a small guitar amp but this sound system features single-unit construction with speakers, amplifier, audio inputs and a dock for iPod all in one box.
Washington RedskinsWP Cumulus Flash tag cloud by Roy Tanck requires Flash Player 9 or better. Minimum of 12 Volt battery voltage, less than a sound or audio is issued less than the maximum and less good. More complex installs involve adding power amplifiers, subwoofers, additional speakers and wiring. Before you start - disconnect the negative battery terminal and set your shifter as far back as possible.
The above image shows the head unit's male connection pins for power, ground and the speakers. This is the recommended method but you could just cut off your factory harness and attach each wire manually using solder, butt connectors or just electrical tape over twisted wire connections. 6) You will need to connect each of the wires manually if you did not buy a wiring harness.
9) You should now have a single connecter which can be hooked to the proper wires in your vehicle, either through the new connection made in steps 6-8 or from your wiring harness.
10) Slide the new stereo into your mounting bracket, which should have been included with purchase. This harness is used to wire up to the aftermarket radio harness and plug into the OEM (original equipment manufacturer) wire harness behind radio for 1987-2008 Toyota models. Butt wire connectors, sometimes known as butt splices, securely fasten two wires with a crimp connection. Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Run a wire to the steering column and use the orange wire in the ignition switch harness. Car Stereo Amplifier Location: Located to the right of the glovebox behind the passenger side of the dash. Yellow=12 volts ignition, black=ground, gray=illumination, pink, if present, activates a power antenna. Trace each wire through the adapter plugs, strip the ends applicable to the stereo you are installing and use crimp connectors to mate the wires with the stereo's output wires. Find a harness bundle with two four-connection plugs for speakers, and one six-connection plug for power connections. Crutchfield has a website tool to let you see what head units fit your car and a shopping guide showing specific products based upon your vehicle selection. These days, iPod control can be integrated with almost any vehicle's stereo by using vehicle specific adapters. Music controls — Use the stereo's controls to play, pause, stop, forward, and reverse the music.
Access to playlists — You'll have access to playlists, but some adapters, especially those for factory stereos, limit the number of playlists you can get to. Use the cable that came with your iPod to control it with the Kenwood Excelon KDC-X493 CD receiver.
Built-in iPod controls — Some stereos have the iPod controls built in using either a front-panel or rear-panel USB slot. External control boxes — Often, the iPod controls are housed in an outboard box that connects to the stereo and iPod.
Functionality refers to how easy it is to manipulate the iPod's functions from your car stereo. The stereo's display: Consider a basic display with a single line of text, limited to 8 or 10 characters visible at a time. Compare that display to one with three lines of text that shows you all of the song information at once. The large wheel mimics the iPod's click wheel on the Alpine iDA-X305 digital media receiver. The stereo controls: Just as the display is important for being able to see what you're doing, having radio controls that are suited for searching and accessing a song library affects iPod control too.
When it comes to controlling an iPod, newer Alpine head units are among the easiest to use. The fifth category consists of a small group of stereos that don't have control capability, but do have an adapter that offers audio input and also charges the iPod's battery. Almost all stereos offer some for of iPod control, but you don't always know if the stereo does it in a way that's satisfying to YOU. All information on this site is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use.
What this guide is: An account of the MKII MR2-specific aspects of the stereo installation.
The 91 Toyota MR2 was available with a premium audio system composed of a double-DIN head unit, two amplifiers, two tweeters, two woofers, two rear fill speakers, and a subwoofer. I'd strongly recommend going with an aftermarket head unit, unless you're absolutely set on having a stock look. If you omit the rear speakers as suggested above, you can get buy with a two-channel amp for the components and a separate sub amplifier. I recommend rewiring the whole system, and not trying to re-use any of the stock components or wiring. The stock wiring is a bit on the small side and also tends to corrode in areas like door harness. A lot of the pics are on the crappy side, because at the time of my audio install, my digicam was a bit on the crappy side. You can install the components in any order, but I recommend installing the amp first, since that's what everything else connects too. This section covers the installation of a 4-channel amplifier in the front trunk (or frunk) on a simple MDF rack. I ended up having to make a few notches in the perimeter of the rack to run the various cables.
Note the notch at the top for the power wires, the notch on the right side for the speaker wires, and the center notch at the bottom for the RCAs. Of course, once I finished my install and started tuning it, I found that I was perfectly happy with the stock crossover settings and never used my clever access holes.
Leave enough slack in all wires at the amp rack end so that you can remove the rack without having to disconnect anything, in case you need to get to your spare. The only tricky part with the power leads was getting a good crimp on the large 4-gauge ring terminals. The HU constant power wiring is similar to the amp power lead: ring terminal crimped on to the hot end, then a fuse holder within 12" of battery. From here, the amp wire runs to the amp (surprise), and the HU constant power wire runs to the HU through a grommet immediately behind the battery.
Note that the speaker wires for the passenger side woofer and tweeter run through this grommet as well. The amp is grounded to a heavy bolt in the front of the frunk, one that also secures the metal tubing framework for the spare tire cage. The amp power, ground, and turn-on leads are all connected to the amp with crimp on ring terminals, as shown below. From here the RCAs simply run up behind the center console to the HU, secured in a few places along the way with zip ties.
For the component speaker runs I used 18 gauge wires, bought by the foot off the spool at a local audio store.
The speaker wires run immediately to the crossover which is mounted next to the amplifier on the amp rack.
There's a large keyhole shaped opening in the driver's side footwell, roughly between the clutch and brake pedal. The subwoofer wire then runs behind the dash and down the center console to the sub behind the passenger seat, as shown in the sub wiring section.
The left and right woofer and tweeter wires run along the outside edges of their respective footwells to the kickpanel, where they join the door wiring harness as shown in the picture below. This section covers removing the door panel, a necessary step to installing the tweeters and woofers.
This section will be short, since I already described the whole process here, and it's also covered here. Here's a picture of the unfinished tweeter mount, the cardboard template, the tweeter mounting cup, and the 93+ tweeter cover for reference.
Of course, once the tweeter cover is back in place all the hard work is invisible, which is why I think the simpler approach of double sided tape or plumbers tape makes more sense.
I unplugged the stock tweeter plug, tucked it out of the way, and ran new wires along the stock wiring path. This section describes making a spacer ring out of MDF for mounting woofers in the stock location. I then connected the speaker to the terminals and screwed the speaker into the spacer ring with the provided screws.
Dozens of ready-made boxes are available from places like Sound Domain, Crutchfield, and Ikesound. The most time consuming, but also potentially the cheapest and most rewarding, especially if you already have access to the necessary tools. The QLT-.6510sx came with a medium gray carpet covering that didn't quite match my black interior.
I ran a short piece of 12 gauge wiring from the sub terminals to the inside of the box terminals.
After passing the sub wire through the front firewall and along the passenger side footwell, I ran it underneath the center console, as hi-lighted in the pic below. The center console is interconnected with the dash trim piece with two tabs located at the seam circled below. When you get near the ignition cylinder, you'll have to press the trim piece away from the cylinder (think radially outward) as you pull back to get it to clear the cylinder. If you're running an aftermarket amp, you'll only need 4-5 of the wires in the stock harness anyway, and they can be pulled from elsewhere. If your stock premium HU has quit on you, and you don't mind sacrificing it, you can salvage a useable connector from the back as mentioned earlier.
After many years with no adaptor available, Autoleads has stepped up and begun offering a plug-n-play solution for the 1991 premium sound system.
I mostly bypassed the stock wiring, but I did end up pulling switched power from the stock harness using a cannibalized connector.
It should also be noted that if you're using the AMP (1) & ANT (7) leads, or the ACC (9) lead, you'll need to retain the stock amplifiers.
The power antenna uses a standard "F" connector and should plug directly into most aftermarket head units. This was American International part # GM-6, similar adaptors are available online from a number of sources. The ground lead is a crimp-on ring terminal on 16 gauge wire, same size as the constant power wire. Once everything is wired up, attach the stock brackets to your head unit and slide it back into the dash. Subwoofer - I would have put a quick disconnect terminal in the wiring near the box itself, and put a handle on the box as well to allow for easy removal during autocross and track days. Amplifier - Again, quick disconnects for the speaker & power wiring so I could easily remove the rack as need be.
Tweeters - As I mentioned above, making the mounts was probably more trouble than it's worth.
Woofers - I'm not sure I would have bothered painting the spacers, since they don't really show. Most vehicles electrical systems are 12 volt DC systems, when the vehicle is not running, the primary source of power is the battery or power cell. Many people are under the impression that adding a second battery will cure their electrical problems; this is not the case at all. If you experience frequent dead batteries in your vehicle, it is a good indication that your electrical system isn’t providing enough power and it may be time to upgrade your alternator.
A power capacitor stores power until needed for high electrical demands such as heavy bass notes. Depending on your situation and the type of system you installed, be sure to to enhance that electrical system for ultimate performance.
In addition to a complete in-house training program, these experts typically have many years of hands-on experience in their specialty. Please read the fuses and amplifiers pages of this site for tips on proper amplifier installation. It involves a head unit (HU) and 2 pairs of speakers which are driven by the head unit's internal amplifier.
If the amplifier has a built in crossover, you'd set the crossover for low pass and probably to about 90 or 100 hertz (if there's a choice).
You would set the crossover on the top amplifier to high pass and the crossover on the bottom amplifier to low pass.
It includes topics from backing up computer files to small engine repair to 3D graphics software to basic information on diabetes. If you have a computer that you'd like to upgrade but don't know where to start, this is a good site for you. Now this may seem fairly obvious to some people but you must remember that this site is designed for people who are new to car audio.
When the switch is in the 2 channel input position, only 2 inputs (1 right and 1 left) are required to drive all of the channels. They allow either pair of channels (front or rear) to play either a full range signal (which will pass the entire input signal to the amplifier section), a high pass signal (blocks out the low frequencies) or a low pass signal which blocks out the high frequencies but allows the bass to play through.

When bridging an amplifier, you must make sure that the total impedance of the speakers is not too LOW for the amplifier that you're using. You can see that the rear preamp output channels of the head unit are connected to the 4 channel amplifier AND the input selector is set to 2 channel AND BOTH crossovers are set to low pass.
So I cannot tap into the factory wiring behind the deck to get left & right channel signals. We noticed you are new here and encourage you to stay in touch by joining us on Facebook or follow us on Twitter for even more tailgating fun.The MP3 format has revolutionized the way we play music at a tailgate party. This high-powered, two-way speaker system has a built-in battery with level indicator for up to eight hours of cordless sound. Get your own TAILGATER by ION Audio and make your music the music your tailgating neighbors listen to….
Whether it is the latest tailgating gear reviews, a great new recipe or a funny list to make you smile, our goal is to inform and entertain the avid and the casual tailgater alike.
Also you may need a wiring harness adapter, butt connectors or a soldering iron and solder. Remove the vertical trim columns to the right and left of the storage box (that is below the climate controls) by pulling straight out - again releasing clips. The space behind the vertical trim columns will reveal screws that hold down the storage box.
Before, your old head unit was connected using the female factory wiring harness directly to the factory head unit.
You still need a chart showing what each wire is used for so you know which wires to connect.
Connect positive wires from each of your speakers to positive connectors on the backside of your stereo first. Twist bare ends together and wrap parallel to the wire, then wrap with good electrical tape. Standard GM radios, whether they were installed in Chevy, Cadillacs or GMC trucks, are all Delco radios with a standard set of plastic plugs and wire colors.
This style of interface is found on a lot of aftermarket stereos, like the Kenwood Excelon KDC-X493. You can use the cable that came with your iPod to connect it, or you can purchase an additional cable so you can leave your other one at home.
This creates an extra step in the processing chain, and tends to have some lag time between song selection at the stereo and playback from the iPod.
This factor is usually more dependent on the stereo than the iPod adapter, but, as mentioned above, adapters vary in how much access they grant to the iPod's features. Searching for songs and folders is going to be much easier on a display that shows this much detail.
These are the stereos that require some form of optional adapter in order to connect your iPod.
By separating the stereos according to iPod compatibility, we hope that you'll have an easier time finding the right stereo. The installation is performed in a 1991 MR2 with the stock "Premium" system, but a lot of the information here is applicable to all MKIIs.
Not responsible for skinned knuckles, electrical fires, or profanity overheard by impressionable family members. The stock locations are very close to the seats, and speakers mounted behind you can cause problems in terms of imaging and overall sound quality they're not set up carefully.
You end up making a lot of curving cuts and drilling lots of holes, and with MDF you don't need to worry about going against the grain or hitting a knot. I've since upgraded, so if anything is unclear in the pics let me know and I'll try to get a better picture.
It's also good to have it already installed so you can use it to check the woofers & tweeters when you get to that step.
The rack fits on top of the spare tire and held in place by the plastic frunk trim piece and the tubular spare tire framework. The best advice I can give is to start big and trim it down from there, thus ensuring a tight fit. I also took out two notches along the bottom to clear a coolant hose and the spare tire frame. This pic was taken a couple years after I finished the install, and the bottom left corner of the rack is starting to show wear.
The crossover frequency of my amp is adjusted by replacing DIP resistors which are accessed from the underside of the amplifier.
I only mention this in case your amp has some component that can only be accessed from underneath (which, incidentally, strikes me as a bad design).
The wiring will be subject to a good amount of vibration, and you don't want anything coming loose. The retail mark-up on connectors, wires, and other basic supplies is obscene, especially at places like Best Buy or Circuit City. I didn't feel like paying for a specialty tool I was only going to use once, so I improvised. I sanded down the metal beneath the bolt and used a lock washer to ensure a good connection.
I used a fairly thin wire for the turn-on lead, 20 gauge or so, since it doesn't have to carry any significant amount of current. I marked the subwoofer RCAs with a band of blue electrical tape on both ends so I could distinguish it from the component speaker RCAs.
I didn't have my head unit installed yet, so I used a portable CD player with a mini-to-rca plug as a source. Just one thing I should add: on my door wiring how-to page, I suggest leaving the window up, as it gives you more room to root around inside the door.
I specifically chose a component set with a low tweeter crossover frequency to help "blend" the sound together. These are much larger than the stock 91-92 covers and have a grill instead of drilled holes. I didn't mind, since I enjoy wood working and had all the necessary tools, but there are much easier ways of mounting the tweeters. After I'd removed the stock tweeters, I cut a small triangle out of cardboard to get a rough estimate of the shape of the space.
I clamped the MDF pieces to a jig made from scrap wood that inclined the pieces ~ 20 degrees. I soldered the tweeter leads to the speaker wire, but in hindsight it probably would have been good to buy another set of disconnect terminals.
The only thing you have to watch out for is drivers with really deep baskets, since you may rub up against the window glass when it's rolled down.
Rolling the window up or down while you have the door panel off is non-trivial, so think about this before you begin.
Using a spacer ring buys you a little extra room for deep drivers, and also allows you to use drivers with a screw layout different from the stock speakers without having to drill into the door metal. I made mine slightly larger in the area of the three screw hole tabs for a little extra strength. I cut a hole in the bottom rear of the baffle to run the wires, and connected them to the speaker with spade terminals. Play some music at a relatively high volume and make sure there's no rattles or distortion, and that both the woofer and tweeter are working. I've seen everything from a single upgraded 5.25" sub in the stock location to twin 12" subs in enormous sealed enclosures, one behind each seat.
There's lots of great resources for box building out there, so rather than go into detail I'll just say "measure twice, cut once" and then point you to Google.
It was reasonably cheap, had enough depth and the proper airspace for my chosen subwoofer (Image Dynamics IDQ-10), and it fit perfectly on the shelf behind the passenger seat (see pictures below). Once you get to the board with the connector on it, you'll notice a series of pins with right angle bends that rise up from the board and go through the back of the connector. I think you could just as easily poke solid core wire of appropriate gauge into the harness side connector. You can get away with a connector with fewer than 14 pins, since odds are you won't be using all of the stock connections anyway (BEEP and MUTE come to mind).
The information in the table comes from the thread about splicing in an alternate connector linked to above. There are actually TWO antennas, the power antenna mounted next to the spoiler on the passenger's side, and an additional antenna in the windshield.
There's nothing wrong with the single-DIN MP3 capable unit I have, but a lot of new decks have come on the market since I bought it a few years back. Adding a second battery to your vehicle will only provide you with more “parking-lot” listening time when the vehicle is not running.
When you add a high powered audio system to your ride, the factory alternator is usually too small and has to look to the battery for some extra power, which shortens the batteries life-span. Some come from car audio installer backgrounds, while others come with extensive retail experience. The head unit page will also give you some important information and may help you install your HU without murdering it. You can see that the battery terminal of the HU is connected to a constant source of power (the battery) with an inline fuse.
If the amplifier is being used because more volume is desired and the front and rear speakers are roughly equivalent in efficiency then the front speaker's amplifier will probably be driven into clipping well before the external amplifier reaches clipping. You still won't be able to get very high SPL before the HU's internal is driven into clipping but if you only need to pick up the bottom octave or so of the audio spectrum, this may do a good job. It can take quite a while to understand the limitations associated with this type of photography.
There are links to some of the better sites and forums as well as a collection of interactive demos. This section will (hopefully) clear up any misconceptions or confusion about multi-channel amplifiers in general. When the switch is in the 4 channel position, all 4 channels have to be driven seperately and are independent of each other. If you're confused about the impedance of multiple speaker loads, try reading either this link or this link.
Since this car has a premium 6-disc Bose sound system, it already sounded pretty good and a lot of upper bass. Because the power wire carries a lot of current, so it’s always a good idea to have the wire as short as possible. I ended up needing to get signal from passenger and driver side kick panels and run it separately to the amp. Before it was CD boom boxes or just rolling down your windows of your car and blasting the car stereo. If you brought a generator or a good power inverter just plug in TAILGATER’s power cord and rock out as long as you want.
Never work on any part of your car's electrical system with the car battery connected, as the electrical shock could be fatal. However, with your new head unit, you probably have a different pin configuration and your old factory wiring harness will not be compatible, physically or electrically.
Next, connect negative wires from each of your speakers to negative connectors on the stereo. Models up to 1989 or 1990 have a different set of plugs and color codes from models manufactured subsequently. In many cases, you can use the cable that came with your iPod to connect and control it from the stereo.
This is the most common option for aftermarket stereos and the usual method of controlling an iPod with a factory stereo. You probably have to switch view settings to see artist name, song title, and playlist, or there might be only numeric designations for playlists. If the adapter is just a cable, iPod controls are built into the stereo, and control tends to be at full speed, so you get fast song-retrieval on par with the first two categories above. This is not an all-encompassing guide; my intent is to simply provide one possible approach and provide some details that may be of use to anyone contemplating a similar install. If you notice something seriously wrong on this page, let me know and I'll try to keep it updated. The rear fill speakers are behind the seats on the sides and the subwoofer is mounted in the driver's side storage compartment behind the seat. The dash can accommodate a double-DIN unit or two single-DIN units, so you have a lot of freedom here. Furthermore, the interior of the MKII MR2 is small enough and causes enough reflections that I don't think you need separate rear fill speakers.
Bear in mind that the MKII MR2 cockpit is very small, and the subwoofers will most likely be mounted directly behind your seat. This is assuming the part in question is readily accessible and easily photographed; I'm probably not going to be willing take my door apart and unmount the speakers to get a better pic. There's no actual bolts or screws connecting it to any metal, it's just held in place by its own weight and by virtue of being a tight fit.
If this is the case, you may want to make some provision for access once the amp is mounted on the rack. I then repositioned the terminal in the vise and crushed it, which collapsed the collar into the wire. I pulled out the wires so they'd be more visible in the pictures; they look a lot neater when they're tucked back behind the battery. The manual for my amplifier specifically said not to ground to the negative battery terminal.
I also secured the turn-on lead to the power lead with electrical tape at several points along the run. Note the large cylindrical part with the rubber dust cover located between the battery and steering column . I prefer this approach to mounting the crossovers in the door, but plenty of people have mounted their crossovers in the door without issues. It's easier to get to if you remove the plastic steering column guard, the one with the big yellow sticker.
Note that the firewall is two layers at this point, so after you push the wires through from the frunk side, you'll have to fish around in the keyhole to pull them into the cabin. I jumped the Power lead to the turn-on lead with some alligator clips to get the amp to turn on.
For a speaker install, however, I recommend leaving the window down, since this is the only way to ensure you've left enough clearance between your woofers and the window glass. For instance, some people have used plumbers tape or even just double-sided tape with good results. There's sort of a channel in the door panel that you can run the wire along, I've hi-lighted it light blue in the pic below. If you want to be certain of whether or not a given speaker will fit in the stock hole, check the MR2 Forums or Crutchfield. You can also use the stock ring to mark the location of the holes for the 3 screws that will hold the spacer ring to the door. Once I was happy with the design, I made two quick cuts with a table saw to free the spacer from the larger piece of stock I had started with. I stapled one of those foam speaker baffles into the spacer ring to protect the speaker from moisture in the door, then did another test fit with the woofer to make sure it cleared the window glass. I used crimp-on terminals, and wrapped the base of the terminals with a small band of color-coded electrical tape (red for positive, black for negative.) I "pre-crimped" the open end of the spade terminals lightly with a set of needle nose pliers.
I don't use the T-tops much, but when I take them out they both fit behind the driver's seat. Make sure there's enough mounting depth to fit the subwoofer you've chosen, and carefully measure the area behind the seats. With the 8" versions, you don't loose any recline room, and the T-tops can still fit behind the seats.
Before painting I crumpled up some newspaper inside the box to protect the connectors from over spray.
Be sure to check the manual for your amplifier, and get a subwoofer with an appropriate resistance.
Be sure to pre-drill any holes and use rubber or foam between the sub ring and the surface of the enclosure to prevent any leaks. Although the box seems to vary between gray and black in the pics on this page depending on the lighting, rest assured it matches the stock interior very well. If you decide to go with a single-DIN deck, you can fill the other DIN slot with a storage pocket, a gauge panel, or slide-out cup holders.
Make sure to eject any CDs before taking the HU out, it's much harder to do so once it's disconnected. They're in pretty tight, so I'd recommend using a 8mm socket with extension rather than a screw driver. In the end you'll liberate a difficult-to-find connector for the stock 14 pin harness, which can be handy later. The salvaged connector approach may be a little more secure, though, since it preserves the locking tab. I'd go ahead and use a 14 pin connector, though, just so you have all the connections available in case you or a future owner decides to go back to a stock stereo.

If you ever wondered what the thin wire that runs down the center of the windshield was for, now you know. The constant power and RCAs simply plug into the appropriate connectors on the back of the HU.
Be sure to put "MR2 audio" or some variation thereof in the subject line, or else it likely won't pass my SPAM filter.
Depending on your car’s factory electrical system, you may not have enough power to run your aftermarket stereo system, that’s when it’s time for an electrical system upgrade.
After the vehicle is started, the second battery becomes another load on an already overworked factory alternator.
Upgrading your alternator will provide your vehicle with more juice to run all of your electrical components, including your car audio stereo system, without drawing power from the battery. If you have a problem with annoying dimming headlights every time your stereo is cranked up, a capacitor is just what you need.
The accessory wire for the HU is connected to a power source which only has power when the ignition switch is in the 'on' or 'acc' positions.
If the HU's fader is turned toward the rear (amplified) speakers, you may get better sound quality (or at least less clipping from the internal amplifier) but the image will be from the rear of the vehicle which is generally undesirable.
In this configuration, since we are using a single set of RCA cables, you'd have no control over the levels of each amplifier from the head unit. This setup would be a little better than the previous diagram because you could adjust the relative levels of the coaxial speakers and the subs through the use of the fader control on the head unit. The relative output levels of the high and low frequency speakers would again be adjustable through the fader control of the head unit. That way we don’t need to run thick wires and we can make sure the instantaneous power from battery and alternator can reach the amp better. Now with iPods, iPhones, Zunes and any other MP3 players on the market, you can play hours of music without killing your car battery or lugging a bulky CD player.
For a simple head unit replacement you will still use your existing speakers and existing wiring inside the car. In addition, when purchasing a stereo you might want to get a wiring harness which is specific for your new stereo and your vehicle's make, model and year. Therefore, you have to wire up the car's existing wires for power, ground and speakers to the new head unit's pin setup. If you find only one wire coming from each speaker this means that they have been grounded at the chassis. All plugs are almost square, and have alignment ridges that guide insertion to specific slots at the rear of GM radios. If the adapter is an outboard control box, communication can be a little slower, since the box is acting as a "middle man" between the iPod and stereo. Since every audio installation is unique, however, you will likely run into issues not covered here. The amplifiers are mounted behind the driver's seat as well, behind the plastic panel the holds the engine lid release lever.
Basically just buy whatever head unit you want based on features, cost, appearance, personal brand bias, whatever. It improves imaging, but encroaches on footwell space, which may or may not annoy you in the long run. You simply don't need as much cone area for the same perceived loudness as you would with subs mounted in the trunk of a sedan. A set of multicolor electrical tape is handy when you're trying to hook up four identical sets of speaker wire to the cross over. The downside is that it's pretty heavy, and makes a lot of dust when you're working with it. I could have used a single RCA for the sub, since I only have one, but I thought it made sense to go ahead and run a pair in case I decided to upgrade later. In hindsight, it might have been easier to use a different grommet for the RCAs, perhaps one over on the passenger side. The wires run through the notch on the right side of the amp rack and down the floor of the frunk to the firewall just behind the steering column. If you don't have your speakers hooked up yet, you can connect them temporarily and run them in free air to test, or use a pair of home theater or computer speakers.
Some side-by-side pics of the covers appear below, the 91-92 covers are on the left and the 93+ covers are on the right. I drilled a small hole through the center of the recess into the notch in the back to run the wire.
Next, trace the inner circle of the spacer, based on the required mounting hole diameter for your chosen woofer. As I mentioned above, I think a single 10" or dual 8" subs gives more than enough base for a MKII. The engine hood latch isn't obstructed, and I still have a flat storage area where I can throw a small cooler or my biking gear. It doesn't really matter in the end, though, because once the passenger seat is reclined you can't see the box at all.
Also, if for some reason you plan on reusing or selling the stock HU, turn off the security code before removing it. The hazard button and cigarette lighter both need to be unplugged to completely remove the trim piece. I didn't take many pictures of this process, all you're really doing is disassembling the HU into component atoms. Later on, you can solder leads to the back of these pins to access wires in the stock harness. Plywood doesn't finish as nicely as MDF, but it's under the hood and I never have to look at it anyway. There are a few different options when upgrading such as adding another battery, upgrading your alternator, or adding a capacitor. If you are trying to correct a problem such as an overload of the charging system from the stereo system, it will not be eliminated by adding another battery.
The dimming is caused by a voltage drop created by the large power demands of your amplifier. The battery and accessory connections will not be shown in the following diagrams but will be the same for all of the systems. Many people run tweeters from the internal amplifier but this also generally leads to less than optimum sound quality.
Some crossovers have a third input which would allow you to connect the other set of RCA outputs (from the head unit) to the crossover (into a subwoofer input jack). Some amplifiers allow you full adjustment of all parameters but for this example, I chose to only show this type (read: I was too lazy to draw anything fancier).
The rear channel crossover is set to low pass and the rear channels are being used to drive a pair of subs.
This can be done wire by wire manually using butt connectors or soldering or you can use an adapter to plug into the factory wiring harness.
The two things I would recommend looking for are high-voltage pre-outs (4V or more) and MP3 compatibility. I'd recommend getting a good set of component speakers and mounting them in the stock locations.
You can always pay to have someone do the install for you, but I typically don't trust the car stereo places to do it right, especially on a non-trivial install such as ours. I started with a 2' X 4' piece of this stuff and started trimming it down, test-fitting it in the frunk repeatedly as I went.
This seems as good a spot as any to mention that the amp rack, woofer spacer rings, and tweeter mounts can all be made from a single 2' x 4' piece of MDF if you're not too wasteful. Once you find a routing that works, secure your RCAs with some zip ties to keep them from shifting around.
The passenger side speaker wires split off from the loom at this point and run behind the battery up to the grommet used for the HU power, as shown in the previous section. Just make sure whatever you use has enough impedance and can handle the power output of your amp.
The 93+ covers allow you to mount a larger tweeter, and may give you more freedom in aiming the tweeter more towards your ears. I used the stock tweeter bracket to transfer the mounting holes to the MDF pieces and then drilled new holes. My component speaker set came with templates for tracing out speaker holes, basically a cardboard doughnut looking thing. I drilled the screw holes with a drill press and finished up the outer edge with a band saw. This can be done with tin snips, diagonal pliers, or easiest of all, end-cutting pliers (also known as nibblers.) A set of end-cutting pliers can be had at any hardware store for just a few bucks and IMHO it's worth buying a pair just for this job. The door panel is an odd shape, so I had to use several pieces and sort of work it around corners. The shelf area is roughly 7.5 inches deep by 20 inches wide, but measure your own to double check. 90% of the job is removing the plastic trim piece that surrounds the radio, climate controls, vents, and ignition. However, if you do decide to add another battery, you must decide whether you want to use a battery isolator, or to simply wire the batteries in parallel.
Not because the internal amplifier is of poor quality but because it will be driven into clipping if the output of the tweeters is to keep up with the speakers which are driven by the external amplifier. In this type of system, the relative output levels would have to be set with the gain controls on the amplifier.
Because RCA wire runs very low voltage signals (0.2Volt~4Volt), and when the run gets long, it’s very easy for EMI to get into the signal thus creating the annoying engine whine. You can also plug in the included microphone so you can let the opposing team’s fans hear just how badly their team is going to get stomped that day. If everything seems to be working, bolt your new stereo into place and replace your dash cover(s). The high voltage pre-outs work towards reducing the impact of noise, which can be a problem for some installs.
I like having one of the flat shelves behind the seats available for storage; for a small cooler for long trips, for the T-tops, or just to throw random crap back there without having to worry about messing up a speaker cone. I mounted my amp in the front trunk, which gives short cable runs to the speakers, head unit, and battery.
Plus, by doing it yourself you'll learn a lot and be better prepared to trouble shoot should problems arise in the future. Once I felt it was close to the shape I wanted, I traced the outline onto the MDF and made my first pass. Try to route your signal wires as far away from this as possible, as it's a common source of noise.
There's no point in doing any fine tuning at this stage, but it's good to at least make sure everything is working. I actually ran the speaker wires while fixing the door wiring, then mounted the woofer another weekend. I've also heard people say that the finer mesh grill in the 93+ covers transmits sound better than the drilled holes in the 91-92 covers, but I can't vouch for this myself. Also, several partially drilled holes were needed on the back to clear the heads of the mirror mounting screws, to allow the MDF pieces to mount flush. If you don't have one of these, you can just use a compass and the specs for your particular woofer. It's probably better to put the damping material on the door metal itself, rather than the panel, but this approach is much easier and still works reasonably well. The passenger seat can't be reclined all the way, but I haven't found this to be a big problem. It's also a good idea to buy the box from a place with a good return policy, just in case it doesn't fit the way you hoped. Another option is to spec out your own design and take the measurements to a car audio store or cabinet maker. Once you have enough room, reach through the vent opening and disconnect the hazard button, then reach through the radio opening to disconnect the lighter. If you are using two different types, models, or ages of batteries, it is necessary to use an isolator. The colored speaker wires from the HU are going to be connected to the positive speaker terminal of the speaker. On most crossovers, the fader will still operate through the crossover which would allow you to balance the levels of the front and rear speakers from the head unit. The rear channels are set to low pass and the input selector switch is set to 4 channel which means that all 4 channels will have to be driven individually (all 4 input jacks will have to be used).
Usually a double DIN opening in the dash can be used for a single DIN head unit by using a tray or other covering on the bottom 2 in. I've found MP3 capability to be incredibly useful, so much that I almost never listen to the radio any more. In this picture my RCAs are laying right across it, as a result of moving things around to get these pics. To find where clearance holes were needed, I drew on the heads of the protruding screws with a black marker. With the door panel screwed tightly against the door metal, the damping material will still serve to dampen door vibrations, and it's still a layer of insulation between you and road noise.
This option may actually be cheaper than building the box yourself IF you don't already own the necessary tools. The isolator will allow the alternator to charge each independent battery as needed as opposed to seeing both batteries as a single load. Here at Sonic Electronix, we like to use the ratio of “1 farad equals 1000 watts” to determine the size of capacitor needed to supply enough power to an amplifier. Many crossovers mix the low frequencies of the front and rear input signals and send both of them into the subwoofer section of the crossover.
That’s why you see from the picture is under the driver seat (the battery is on the left side of engine compartment too).
The TAILGATER features heavy-duty construction for years of enjoyment including a convenient carry handle for packing and unloading in and out of your tailgating vehicle. If you rip and encode from your own albums with a good encoder (such as Lame 3.93) you really don't give up much in sound quality, especially in a car environment. You'll have to check yourself, or try posting on the audio section on the MR2 Forums to see if someone else has installed your speakers before.
You can get truck boxes that fit pretty well and are reasonably cheap, or you can get a box custom made or make it yourself. The downside is the potential for noise from the various electronics mounted up there, particularly the power steering.
I then pressed the MDF piece into place, and then drilled wherever marker had transferred onto the back of the MDF. The stock ring, cardboard doughnut template, and resulting spacer outline is shown below as drawn on a manilla folder.
The place I bought my box from (Crutchfield) was nice enough to let me take it out into the parking lot to test-fit it before purchasing.
A Google search still turns up some places selling the sx, so perhaps some old stock is still available. Parallel wiring does not require an isolator, but the first thing to consider in parallel addition of batteries is that it is absolutely essential that both batteries be the exact same type, model, and should be as close to the same age as possible. When adding a power cap, try to use one that is equal to or close to the power output of your car audios system, using a larger capacitor will not damage the audio system, but it will put an unnecessary strain on the vehicles electrical system. Of course, this is just a generic type of diagram and you should consult the wiring diagram which was supplied with the HU. On the back of the unit there will either be a batch of individual wires or a plug connecting a lot of wires. I'd also recommend mounting the crossovers next to the amp, rather than in the doors, but this is personal preference. Just measure the shelf, figure out the volume you need for your chosen speaker, then dust off the trigonometry and geometry you learned in high school. Anyway, be sure of what exactly you're getting, and check the return policy in case you're not happy.
If you do decide to add another battery, I suggest adding a Stinger SPV70 Power Series Battery. Tsunami Capacitors are known for being high quality and we have plenty on our website to suit your needs.
The guy doing the demo is speaking in Dutch but you can get the idea of the features of the Ion Tailgater from it. This needs to be removed as well as the wiring harness in order to disconnect the head unit.

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Comments Good car battery for audio system upgrade

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