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Try hooking the white wire up to the positive terminal of a battery and the ground to the negative post.
Universal trailer wiring color code -- The normal trailer wire colors will be white, brown, green, & yellow. I usually hook the white ground wire to the metal tongue on the trailer so it is ground,and I let the ball be the ground contact for the lights when the trailer is hooked to the car or truck pulling the trailer. Be a little cautious about hooking wires to your positive battery terminal until you know for sure where they go. I've done a lot of boat trailering, and always had problems with the ground wires until I found the solution -- RUN A CONTINUOUS GROUND FROM PLUG TO LIGHT.
So = easy fix is to run the white ground wire(s) from the trailer's plug (not the tow vehicle's plug, which should run to the vehicle's ground circuit) all the way to the lights attachment bolts or ground wire(s) -- trailers usually have two tail lights and sometimes amber sidelights.
Brake lights and directional lights use the same filament in the bulb and the same wire in the harness. It used to go to an auxiliary ground that came out of the car side of the plug and went directly to ground on the car's frame.
It's a handy little trick if you need to leave your trailer by the side of the road for some period of time (or just want to draw attention in the campground, I suppose). Take a standard 2-pronged turn-signal flasher, and insert it into the 7-pin connector on the trailer between pins 1 and 7. I am not including a break-a-way battery in this senerio as it wouldn't last long and is a completely seperate circuit that runs parallel to the brake circuit. I have since taken the battery out and put it on a charger for 3 hours (not a trickle charger).
Starter motor has shown no signs of struggling the car before, even in tasmania or cold winter days. Should also add, car last worked a day or two ago, and the lights do not dim at all when you turn all the lights and and try to start it.
If the battery was not charged enough or was faulty, the lights would at the very least dim or drop out when turned to start. Not comfortable hot wiring past it myself, getting an auto electrician to take a look, but at least i can point him towards the module. Millerman I was close to doing just that (its basically what the guy suggested over the phone) but I need to make sure i have the car running again before wednesday so I just called it in and got an auto electrician to do it. Clicking on the various pictures below will open a window with a larger version of the image. The armrest compartment has a rubber shelf, cigarette adapter, and a soft drink can holder.
It's integrated into the left armrest, but instead of just being a pocket like most cars, it's sculpted to provide a real hand-hold for a human hand. There's also a weird wedge-shaped thing behind the shifter which I guess could be used to jam cups of varying sizes into, but with flat surfaces, and a penchant for using styrofoam cups, a spill disaster or two is definitely in the future. Instead of having square mirrors for maximum visibility, the mirror holders are shaped like teardrops (design symmetry with the tail?), so the mirror area is reduced where you least want it reduced. They are small, poorly distinguished, and very far forward (I'm 6"1) on the curve of the armrest.
The 3-Series is morphing into a relatively driver-neutral, family light sedan, but the vehicle dynamics and quality of build remain excellent. To get WoodenBoat delivered to your door or computer, mobile device of choice, etc, click WB Subscriptions.

If the white wire is a ground wire, and the trailer is grounded to the car through the hitch, and you touch the white wire to the pos terminal, there will be sparks and meltage. There are no flat four plugs with seven wires so the guys at the auto parts place said just splice the seven wires onto the new four wire plug according to colour. The car side of the plug just has the four wires you'd expect - yellow, green, brown, and white. I installed flood lights on his truck with and without color filters and installed turn signal flashers in alternate side pairs to make them flash at non sequenced timing. Tried a jumpstart, would not work (no ticking over from the starter motor) but electricals had life. Placed back in, electricals have life, headlights work, alarm remote works fine, still no sound from the starter motor at all when i try to start.
Seemed fair enough, so it's in their shop while they work out what screwed up in there exactly, and whether the alarm should stay in. In a later service session, for the scheduled major service inspection, I drew a similar car, with 15,000 miles on it. Y refers to the class of car (3, 5, and 7 series, corresponding to small, medium, and too-large luxury models). Alas, the airbags-for-complete-fucking-morons warning remains, and is inseparable from the material. There's a lead-in system that will slightly tilt the lights in the direction of turn, so you can see what you're turning into. It's fun to play with automatic downshifting, but for normal driving, there are so many overrev protections it's just easier driving the car in its automatic transmission mode. It feels great, and looks great, but my regular passenger and I noticed that it didn't breath like leather. I am not 100% sure why car manufacturers think the compass belongs on the rear-view mirror.
This is what attracted me to the brand originally: the center console in the E36 was tilted at a pretty sharp angle. My 60-lb dog likes to sit there (and to drive), so the car will beep about no seatbelts being fastened for two or three minutes.
This makes user evaluation of issues such as the one I encountered with the loaner problematic.
If the wiring harness isn't grounded through the plug you will likely get a sporadic ground through the hitch, causing the lights to flicker, or perhaps no lights at all if the lights are not grounded to the trailer. Yet the trailer side of the plug had two whites and three browns along with one yellow and one green.
I've enabled and disabled the mongoose unit in the engine bay with the little key, no change.
If the car is in a position to roll start it (even in reverse), that might eliminate a few things. I would be getting someone out to check the install of the alarm make sure all is ok and if all looks ok bypass the starter circuit and get the alarm replaced. Other than diagrams, I haven't been able to find anything to support that there should be something there.
This exposes current owners to the capabilities of new models as well as variations one might never otherwise be interested in driving. WHICH is better than any other automatic transmission out there, just a weak replacement for BMW's own manual gearboxes.

You can remove the fob, but if you do so without pressing on it first, the car will beep at you. This is just a poor functional design (on the other hand, as GOOD design, the fob itself separates into a key and fob, presumably for a fob battery-failure situation to allow one entry into the car).
The only functional benefit I can see is that you can leave the car running and depart it with the fob, thus allowing for remote control of the car's security features. With the soft switches, you basically have five switch positions: way up, up, down, way down, and neutral. BMW's long had a reputation for poor interiors, but seemed on the path to turning that around with the E46 series. Permission to reproduce this article for non-commercial purposes is granted, provided that this disclaimer is included. It had a flat four plug but with seven wires running into it from the trailer - a yellow, a green, three browns, and two whites.
So the green went to green, the yellow to yellow, the three browns from the trailer to the single brown on the four wire replacement plug. Dad was able to check with a multimeter whilst i started the car, and apparently the starter isn't even drawing any current.
In general, this contributes to the feeling of the driver controls being a bit haphazard, ignoring the experience of the past. When the new 5 series came out, the tilt was gone, thus removing the 5 from my shopping list. The effect is most noticeable on the black rubbery naughahyde-like covering on the steering wheel and glareshield.
The owner's pouch wasn't in the car, so I was left to wonder what the picture of a pitcher with waves under it meant. It plugged into a standard flat four on my truck - a Mazda pickup which so far as I know is wired same as a Ford Ranger which is what it essentially is. I did notice a few relay looking things around the footwell fuse box, maybe it's there from factory too.
I suspect this is a function of the design of the automatic transmission system, which seems to aim for a low RPM target in a gear range in order to keep fuel economy low. I was thinking that they're big for peripheral vision, which might work for daytime driving.
When I spliced them both to the single white on the replacement plug the old problem of rapid blinking signal lights was still there. But when I leave off the second white wire on the trailer and only splice the remaining white to the new plug everything seems to work fine and for the first time ever. Slapping it down to release it doesn't work, and manually pulling it up usually results in signalling the opposite direction to the turn, which I'm sure will end up in crashes. Googling this problem seems to indicate it's become a nuisance warning (tip for designers: icons have never been what they were cracked up to be. The cubic capacity of the engine (liter) is an indication of the relative power of the engine.
They're usually contrived, are culturally confusing, and have no speed-of-recognition value.

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