Fix broken battery spring broken,battery dodgem cars perth,12v rechargeable battery lipo 3s - Downloads 2016

23.01.2014
Photography Stack Exchange is a question and answer site for professional, enthusiast and amateur photographers. I have a Canon PowerShot SX100 IS, and the battery slot is the one in the following picture.
Has anyone some knowledge about this system of battery slot, what might explain it to be stuck, or how to open it again without breaking my camera? Edit: Sorry, Russel, for not having brought the concern about the external locking button at first. A pin enters the slot when the door is closed and then moves into locking position under the overhand when the door is moved sideways. It is not obvious what has happened in your case but if this was my camera I would consider doing the following. Hold camera upside down in right hand and strike the top sharply on my left hand so there is a cushioned but solid impact. Try levering with a thin metal object between body and door (on outside on body side of A) to try to get the door to move in unlock direction. With a dril of about 6 mm diameter drill (Really!) into the door at the outside next to point D so that you can see and access the tip of lock H WITHOUT DAMAGING IT. Also, this hole allows you to addply more force in the sliding open direction using the edge of the hole. Note that the two plastic ridges at D are intended to stop reverse polarity battery insertion.
Given your extra information about the locking button, if it was mine, I would try inserting levering objects (such as screwdriver tips) into the areas around the jammed button and try exerting extra force on it in the desired direction.
Not the answer you're looking for?Browse other questions tagged canon repair body powershot or ask your own question. Why do I get the “Change the battery pack” message on startup (Canon ELPH 300 HS)?
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Well, unfortunately I don't have pics of it, but I have two u-bolts from a-zone holding my drivers-rear top leaf spring together, which is totally redneck. Fixed a separated weld behind one of the O2 sensors with a beer can, muffler tape and a couple hose clamps.
The battery door of an HP 28S is kind of fragile, but parts of the case are also prone to crack away.
I have a 28S with the tiny corners of the door broken away and a portion of the case meant to guide and hold the door also cracked off (but not lost). Gluing the piece of the case with cyanoacrylate was not strong enough to hold against the spring pressure, so in addition to the glue, I drilled a tiny hole and inserted a brass pin through it and into the case. The drill is a size 76 (~.52 mm diameter) and I used a hard, tapered brass pin of the type sold for clock repairs.
To take the place of the battery door, I cut out a piece of brass sheet (0.8 mm thick) using a jeweler's saw and filed it to fit then bent it over.
My trusty desk stapler stopped rebounding after I would staple, causing me to have to lift up the stapler manually to open it up to insert pages–not good. Now you’ve repaired and recycled your broken Swingline Model 545 stapler and saved some money. Can I test the battery with a normal electrical circuit tester or how do I make a bulb to test it ? Unfortunately, someone borrowed it from me, and the broken slot is now broken in a strange way: it is closed but it cannot be open with bare hands, or at least, it cannot be open without risking breaking the camera.
A nail file or piece of still thing spring steel (such as is used on some large wooden boxes as strapping when shipping). Once you are JUST through the outer wall of the door you can use a hand held reamer or larger drill (10mm - up to enlarge the hole without damaging the hook at H. By attacking the door in stages you WILL be able to open it in due course and if the camera proper is undamaged it should allow a new door to be fitted after the problem is determined and fixed if it is in the body. If somebody managed to shut the door with the wrong polarity battery there it would insert an immense pressure on the door - perhaps only much force is required to slide the door.


I think the white lever is a kind of lock too, to prevent the sliding to occur inadvertedly.
It may not display this or other websites correctly.You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. It seems that the ones used are just too strong and end up putting too much pressure onto the place where the cover connects with the case. The little electronic board you have with the red LED light and the resistors is your battery charger, they are junk also.
I was told a spring might have been lost, but I cannot see it on the photo and I cannot understand how to fix my camera battery slot, as the first step would be to open the battery slot. The arm at G with its shape shown by a vent line is inserted into the space at C and the tipo slides under D when the door is slid into lock position.
The object is to workl bewteen door and hook at H and try to free up the lock sliding action. Better, if you can cut the ledge away around hook H without damaging H then IF this is the only latch it may allow the door to be opened or partially opened wothout sliding.
I have a one-million (1,000,000) candle-power unit my sister gave me which was wonderful when it was working. The other free one with the screw is probably the ground, it was attached to the metal casing inside the light socket. I just by-passed the charger system, found me a cheap 2-amp charger to slow charge the battery. I had to use ingenuity to hook up this charger with the battery still in the case, but it works.




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