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The top post of one of the 6V lead acid batteries in my golf cart broke off, flush with the top of the case. Vibration, shear forces from the cable attachment and corrosion will defeat you if you try to repair it. Ronseto: From your photo it is clear to me that there was a short taking place between positive post and "ground", especially if you look at the carbony appearing track from the post to the nearest bracket. From the look of that set up I assume that you have 3 or 4 batteries in parallel and the red positive line shown is what was attached to the missing terminal. I do not know the purpose of the parallel bars shown connected to one negative terminal and a negative(black) lead other than to be a connection manifold of sorts even though it looks more like steel than copper.
Just make sure you file down the broken lug area flat so that the adapter has as much bottom surface contact as possible and use grease or some sort of anti corrosion gel on and under it before reassembling. I would drill and tap both pieces and then use a piece of threaded rod to screw them back together.
Either the posts were all made within seconds, or, there is a conspiracy to post old timers before newer members. Check your battery terminals before you go off on a wild goose chase trying to find out why your car won’t turn over. Nice to have things work out every so often rather than the 5-minute fix that ends up taking 4-hours without getting you anywhere.

To avoid this in the future, you need to keep dust from collecting on the top of the batteries, that one combined with any acidic residues will make a very conductive path. Could the corrosion deposit have built up enough to bridge the gap and cause a high amperage short as suggested?
The suggested felts often help a lot and as suggested Vaseline was an old remedy which I found effective.
I have had to do it a few times myself with vehicle and tractor batteries so I know it works.
If you want to use copper you could make Your own threded rod out of a piece of copper rod. These compartments are often under the seat, and if pressure is put on the post from above this is what happens. Now at the risk of getting the part i sit on in a sling-checking up on proper battery maintence procedures might be a good idea. Over here, construction workers are 60-percent unemployed, and as a carpenter, work has been off and on, so I have to be frugal replacing parts for the bike. Notes: the piece of aluminum is friction fitted around the broken post tightly enough to also serve as a heat sink as well as to keep the aluminum elevated a tad above the plastic surface. Good luck with the repair attempt, hoping that you do not break the sealed battery compartment.

To repair the broken battery terminal, I attached another terminal from off an old battery for my Shadow 600. The sort of corrosion you are seeing is a long term corrosion where two different metals are in contact, and sets up a galvanic cell, typically iron is the anode.
Is it possible a high current flowing through that post could have gotten hot enough to melt the post? Always coat the metals at the battery posts with anti-corrosive for batteries, and use a felt washer when available. And flame is a cannot do without to keep the required heat localized within a 10-20 seconds working window. I don't think I harmed the bond of the joint by dousing the terminal with water after the solder solidified.

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Comments Fix battery terminal replacement

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    Electrical gadget to this single type of jump then arrange to ship found 3 main options.
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    Typical for a cruising sailboat cars may have 6-volt electrical basic.
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    That specializes in the just-in-time will eventually fully charge any battery.