Exide car battery water level controller,rechargeable batteries discharge curve,sealed lead battery recycling,lead acid battery un number wiki - PDF 2016

01.04.2015
Performing preventive maintenance on wet batteries is easy and should occur at least once a month during the summer and every three months during the rest of the year, especially in hot climates. To reduce the water consumption for wet batteries, there are battery caps, for example, Hydocaps, Water-Mizer, etc.
The Shell Battery Water is a de-mineralized water for use in Car & Boat Batteries, Steam Irons and Air Humidifiers, cleaning where extreme cleanliness is vital and safe dilution of concentrated coolant. It’s recommended to check the fluid level on a regular basis, and twice a year as a minimum. Under normal conditions you should not need to replace all the fluid in a battery, Shell Battery Water is most often used to top up when the level drops under 5mm above battery plates.
When checking take care when unscrewing the caps to avoid any spill on paintwork as battery fluid may cause damage. Shell Battery Water works well in steam irons and air humidifiers to prevent the build up of limescale in hard water areas. Mahalo mechanic expert Desmond Bryant teaches you how to check your car battery's fluid level. A dry cell battery has a rod called a cathode at its center, generally made of metal or graphite.
Please remember that using others' images on the web without their permission is not very nice. Dear User, Please use the drop downs below to locate your city by first selecting the country and then the state. While working with car and deep cycle lead-acid batteries, please always wear safety goggles or glasses to protect your eyes in case of a battery explosion.
Before you start the engine for the first time during the day, check the the State-of-Charge (SoC) of the battery. Checking electrolyte levels of non-sealed (with filler caps) wet batteries every three months is recommended.
It prevents the battery from receiving a charge due to a high resistance connection, which eventually causes the battery to be drained or voltage loss.
Tighten loose battery terminal clamps, lugs, terminals, connectors, and hold-down clamps to prevent excessive vibration. Clean the battery top to eliminate conductive paths created by dried or wet electrolyte and to prevent corrosion. Clean the charging system to allow better heat transfer and check the alternator belts for cracks and correct tension.
Replace any battery cables (or cable terminals) that are corroding, swelling or damaged with an equal or larger diameter cable.
Replace the battery if the battery case is bulging, cracked or leaking, especially around "GM" style side terminals.


Periodically rotate batteries in a bank of deep cycle batteries because the lowest capacity batteries tend to fail first and to insure that the connections are clean and tight.
In the case of frequent start & stops in combination with driving short distances, more frequent checks may be necessary. If you still can not find your city in the list, please CLICK HERE to submit a request for inclusion of your city.
For non-sealed (with filler caps) wet batteries, also check the electrolyte levels in each cell. In hot climates, checking the electrolyte levels at least once a month during the summer is recommended.
To automatically water batteries, there are watering systems that will add water to each individual battery cell.
Remove any corrosion, oxidation, paint or rust with a brass wire battery brush or with a "ScotchBrite" pad from the terminal's connecting surfaces on both ends of each battery cables, battery posts, lugs or terminals, and engine ground strap connections. To prevent terminal corrosion, thinly coat the terminals, posts, clamps, lugs and exposed metal around the battery with high temperature and water resistant wheel bearing grease.
If electrical problems are experienced in vehicles with GM's side terminal connectors, check for corrosion inside the positive terminal, lug or connector with the multiple cables. This will be even more important under cold weather conditions when heated windows and heated seats are operating. It may be best to check one cell at a time and ensure the cap is properly replaced before the next cap is removed. The cathode and paste are wrapped in paper or cardboard (known as a cell) before being sealed into a metal cylinder called an anode.
The plates need to be covered at all times to prevent sulfation and reduce the possibility of an internal battery explosion. Bare metal to metal is necessary for very low electrical resistance and good current conductivity. Larger cable and lugs, connectors or terminals are better because there is more surface area and less voltage drop.
If the battery is not fully charged (100% State-of-Charge), recharge it with a battery charger in a well ventilated area. For non-sealed wet car and small deep cycle batteries (less than 200 amp hours), allow the battery to cool to room temperature. Petroleum jelly ("Vaseline") or Calcium grease is not recommended for use under the hood because it has a low melting point.
When a device is connected to the terminals, a chemical reaction occurs between the cathode and the paste to produce about 1.5 volts of electricity.
Then add only distilled water to the level indicated by the battery manufacturer, UPPER LEVEL mark, or just to the bottom of the filler tubes (vent wells or splash barrels) as shown in the diagram below.


If a battery has dried out due to an overcharge, you can try to recovery it by refilling with distilled water and slowly recharging it. A stiff steel wire brush or sandpaper may damage protective lead plating on copper connectors or terminals. Gluing a sacrificial anode, such as a solid piece of copper to the top of the battery between the posts or using sealed VRLA batteries will prevent or reduce terminal corrosion. Corrosion is normally a white powdery lead oxide substance, but could have other colors mixed in like gray, yellow or green from other chemicals or alloys. Please do not use the felt or metal washers between the mating conductive surfaces with General Motors-type side, "L" or threaded stud terminals as shown in Section 7.5.
Some vehicle charging systems have been known to undercharge the battery causing an accumulation of lead sulfate, known as sulfation.
Avoid overfilling, especially in hot weather, because the heat will cause the electrolyte to expand and overflow. Heavy corrosion can be neutralized by applying a paste from a mixture of baking soda (bicarbonate of soda) and warm water.
This is because a large cross section of conductive area is required to carry the heavy starting current. Some use diet cola to dissolve corrosion because it does not contain sugar which will leave a sticky surface. For batteries not subject to high temperatures, use "No Oxide A" (or the battery manufacturer's recommended coatings) on the terminal posts, clamps, lugs, or connectors.
Do not use tap water or water from residential Reverse Osmosis (RO) systems to refill batteries because it could contain chlorine, calcium or magnesium and produce calcium or magnesium sulfate crystals. Some stainless steel alloys and other metal clamps, lugs, washers, nuts and bolts have also been known to cause problems with electrolysis and high resistance.
Periodically fully recharging or "topping off" with a battery charger will restore most or all of the battery's capacity.
These crystals can gradually fill the pores or coat the plates which will reduce the battery's capacity. At least every one to three months is recommended depending on temperature and driving habits. State-of-Charge (SoC) readings will be inaccurate immediately after the addition of water, recharges or discharges.



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