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I initially started out with a used unit from a 2001 F450, but I found that rust inside the unit had ruined the surface and caused the seal to leak. After the studs are removed, you will need to drill the bracket to match the pattern on your truck.
Remember our measurements earlier concerning the pushrod length; now is the time to get those spacers. Once you have the spacers and hardware ready, you can install the unit, then connect the brake pedal to the pushrod and check to see if the height is right and make sure the pedal can go all the way up and all the way down without bottoming out against the floorboard, or up against the underside of dash, etc.
Third time's the charm as the saying goes, and in my 3rd attempt at mounting the hydroboost netted me the perfect pedal height. Once your hydroboost is physically installed correctly, you can move on the next step; the hydraulic hose lines. The best fit for me was 27 inch long hose from pump to hydroboost, with 90 degree connection at the booster and straight connection at the pump, and then 19 inch long hose between hydrobooster and steering box, with straight connection at steering box and 90 degee connection at the booster.
Once your new master cylinder is bench-bled and installed on your truck, you should be able to bleed your brakes in the usual way (right rear first, left rear second, right front third, and left front last).
The system will probably be just about empty now, since the pressure and return hoses have been off or disconnected during the previous work. I did this conversion on my 1969 F100, but the details should be about the same for all 67-72 F trucks.
The "What it fits" tab shows this part goes in F250 thru F550 trucks between 2001 and 2004. If you buy a used unit, remove the master cylinder so you can see down inside and make sure the surface is nice and clean and smooth. Having slightly larger holes helps offset the possibility of my measurements not being perfect and allows some amount of movement to help get the bolts started.
If you don’t have a hydraulic hose shop near you to have a hose custom made, you can give this website a whirl.

Having these hoses made online would have cost me about $15-$25 each, less than half what the local shop charged me, but I was in a rush and could not wait.
If your truck has a pressure differential valve the lines should route through this as it originally did, if your truck does NOT have one, then I recommend some kind of proportioning valve to help reduce the chance of the rear brakes locking up during a hard stop.
Once removed, compare the distance from mounting point to center of pushrod hole on the old master cylinder and the new hydroboost. I got some really nice heavy duty thick wall stainless spacers off ebay that worked out to $2 each (but I had to buy the pack of 7 for $14, they were not offered individually).
In fact, I had the unit on and off 3 times, and being heavy and awkward I eventually decided to mount it with threaded rod, instead of using bolts. I have used this in the past to build hoses and was very pleased with the price and result. I added a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve to mine in line for the rear brakes right after the master cylinder (part 260-8419, sells for $42 at Summit Racing). For my 69 Ford, as well as the 2001 Ford that the hydroboost came from, the recommended fluid is ATF.
My retainer was broken, so I used an old sway bar end-link bushing as a spacer to hold spring in the same approximate position as the retainer would have held it (in my case, the master cylinder now holds this all in place).
This is how you will determine what size spacers to use (an alternative will be to cut the pushrod on the hydroboost and re-weld it to the correct length, but if you are not comfortable with this, then use spacers like I did).
For the pump itself, the fitting you need will be determined by the type of connection it is made for.
Fill up the reservoir in the power steering pump, and then slowly turn the steering wheel from lock-to-lock and back to center.
I guess that is the real question for me: Does hydroboost do something dramatically better than a vacuum booster? My pump (originally from a 1980 F150) used a 16mm o-ring style fitting, so adapter 648060 worked for me.

The larger the bore the more fluid for the same amount of travel, but the lower the pressure for the same amount of effort. Start the engine and let it run for a few seconds, just long enough to pressurize the system.
To connect to the -6AN adapters I mentioned above, use FJX90-06-06 JIC (female swivel 90 degree), FJX45-06-06 JIC (female swivel 45 degree), or FJX-06-06 JIC female swivel (straight).
Check the fluid level again, it should be much lower now as fluid will have been pushed into all the hoses and the hydroboost. It is possible to splice into your existing power steering return line with a Y fitting and connect your hydroboost return to it, therefore sharing the return line. Now, turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock again & back to center as it may accept a little more fluid. But the recommended way will be to buy a power steering pump that has fittings for 2 return lines. With the engine running, turn the steering wheel slowly lock-to-lock while intermittently pressing and releasing the brake pedal.
Judging from the size of the orifice in the return fitting, the return flow is not significantly high enough to cause a backup in the line. However the real problem will be if the return from the power steering box is high enough, it can force pressure backwards into the return line and make it harder for the hydroboost to return fluid. After doing this start the engine again for a few seconds and make one last check of the fluid level. He has previously written for newspapers and websites across the world -- from Florida to Australia.

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