Deep cycle battery to start a car,12v battery for yamaha raptor 450,recharging car battery price s7562,car battery sales in liverpool today - PDF Books

28.10.2013
Here you have a list of opinions about Deep cycle battery and you can also give us your opinion about it.
You will see other people's opinions about Deep cycle battery and you will find out what the others say about it.
A deep-cycle battery is a lead-acid battery designed to be regularly deeply discharged using most of its capacity.
A deep-cycle battery is designed to discharge between 45% and 75% of its capacity, depending on the manufacturer and the construction of the battery. In the image below, you can see a graph with the evolution of the times that people look for Deep cycle battery.
Thanks to this graph, we can see the interest Deep cycle battery has and the evolution of its popularity. You can leave your opinion about Deep cycle battery here as well as read the comments and opinions from other people about the topic. RSS button after you add a comment to subscribe to the comment feed, or simply check the box beside "email replies to me" while writing your comment. We're going for 8 X 12 volt 130Ah Deep Cycle batteries which will give us 1040 Ah through connecting them in parallel to increase the capacity (connecting in series would increase the voltage). Don't forget, if you go the deep cycle battery route, once you have your new batteries, connect them up and allow them to charge on a sunny day for at least 6 hours prior to using them in order to ensure that their charge is at maximum. My Dad got excited about the Harbor Freight 45 Watt solar system and picked one up for us a couple of weeks ago.
The batteries here came out of an electric bus in 1997 and did last at least 15 and possibly 20 years (original lifespan of the bus is unknown), although around half failed along the way. Realize that the charge controller and monitoring hardware is also very important for the health of your battery pack. But with standard "flooded" lead-acid batteries, you'll have to monitor the level and specific gravity of the electrolyte regularly. The battery pack from a Tesla is really about 8000 small batteries (individually monitored) put together.
Shannon --- That's what I was thinking, and I appreciate you backing it up with your agreement. Joey --- Drat --- that's pretty hard to recreate since we don't know of any electric buses being sold for parts. Buzz --- Even though they're way out of our price range (over $3,000 for the cheapest battery), I did look at whether batteries like that would be economical. Roland (second comment) --- I was figuring more like only using the top 40%, because I'd read it's best to only use 30% to 40%.
Trevor --- We considered that, but then learned that the cheap grid-tie options are illegal in our neck of the woods. They have reasonable thick lead plates which means if you keep them charged up they will have a decent life span. They are accessible locally, have freshness dates that are usually less than 90 days old and do not require shipping. You can take this from someone who spent a fortune on fancy pants Surrette Rolls Solar industry batteries ($400 each) for a total of $8,000 in batteries on my first PV installs.
Be sure to never buy batteries until the entire system is completely installed and all the cables are in place. I used to own an electric car and know batteries better than I ever thought Roland gave you great battery care advice, but I will chime in to emphasize a couple points. I would not consider anything other than golf cart batteries or the better lead-acid batteries made for solar installations. Make sure your charging system matches the battery type, or you will shorten the life of the batteries.


I'm so glad I asked my question, because you all keep pointing me toward things I wouldn't have considered! De's point about batteries being individualized supports my (odd) plan of having several small solar setups rather than one big one.
De's comment that the charger should fit the battery should be printed in big, black letters! Instead of several separate systems I would advise building a flexible system where you can disconnect pieces (batteries, circuits) that don't work. As you've seen with carpenters and woodwork, it might be a good idea to get an electrician on board for this project. David --- Hmmm, one of those batteries would hold about 1,280 watt-hours, which is only barely more than a typical golf cart battery (which I estimate at 1,200 watt-hours). Since we're starting with such a small system, it doesn't make sense to wire the whole house. It's silly to run all DC these days we live in a AC world and your cable diameter will be so thick that it is difficult to work with and expensive to run to anything.
Dennis --- That was my second bullet point: "RV or marine batteries are the next cheapest, but still aren't recommended by experts.
I had originally thought they would be fine, but all of the solar experts warning against them on the internet makes me think we'd best avoid them.
I don't have anything to add and just about a zero knowledge base, but we are looking at putting an rv on our unimproved land and have been looking into solar more.
This blogsite had alot to say about batteries and what had and hadn't worked in the past, it is n't mine, I don't know them but the info looked great. The intended usage of your batteries (backup for power outages) might not be a good thing for their longevity, nor an effective use of the hardware.
For long periods, the only thing that the solar panels will be doing is topping up the batteries self-discharge. Depending on the relative size of your solar panels and batteries, your panels will be effectively doing nothing for long periods of time. I think it would be better to put the energy from the solar panels to other uses once the batteries are charged. Once the charge controller cuts off the current to the batteries, the voltage from the panels goes up. Updating --- Hopefully one of our regular (and more learned) commenters will chime in --- I'm afraid this is beyond my knowledge! I don't recall exact numbers, but the pack is just under 300 volts, NiMh (nickel metal-hydride), around 220 rectangular batteries in series at 1.25V each. I'm thinking about the Harbor Freight Kit as a great way to provide power for a mobile HAM radio.
Is the Harbor Freight Kit charger controller compatible with Lifepo4 batteries or would I also need to get a lifepo4 charger to go in between the charge controller and the battery?
My first thought was to go with 2 huge 12Vdc Lifeline batteries that would cost approx $1500.00 but Im not sure if this is the right way to go. The Solar panels, MPPT Regulator, and inverter now appear to be the easier part of the setup.
Although these batteries can be cycled down to 20% charge, the best lifespan vs cost method is to keep the average cycle at about 45% discharge. And below it, you can see how many pieces of news have been created about Deep cycle battery in the last years.
Standard lead-acid batteries don't like being discharged deeply; you'd have to stop discharging when they get below 50% capacity. So the rated capacity of your battery back capacity should be at least twice what you really need.


It reduces your self reliance to some extent, but you don't have the cost and other issues associated with batteries. They seemed to last a few years but you do need to add more distiller water once and a while. I see so many off-grid installs where someone leaves the batteries sitting in their yard for a year.
It would prolong the life of the batteries and give you a chance to nip problems in the bud before they become expensive failures.
Put all the 12 volt battery stacks in parallel to the solar panels (through their individual chargers), with a switch to disconnect a pair if it is misbehaving.
This topping-up should be stopped by the charge controller once the cells reach their maximum capacity (and voltage); without this cut-off, a lead-acid cell would start to electrolize the water in it's electrolyte once it reaches a certain voltage.
I read somewhere that shunting several solar should never exceed 70 amps, that could destroy the cells: is that the same case with a battery bank??
But there's a quirk -- Toyota sets their software to maintain the State of Charge from above 60% to below 90% of full capacity to make them last longer. They are supposed to last 10 years but Golf cart batteries are cheaper and probably the same or less cost if I have to replace them more frequently. There is a direct correlation between the depth of discharge of the battery, and the number of charge and discharge cycles it can perform.
Our deep cycle batteries utilize the heaviest and thickest plates available from the battery industry – and more than 10% thicker than those used by the competition.
Realize that if you skip on that maintenance, it can drastically shorten the lifetime of the expensive batteries, or even detroy them (internal short).
This might be an excellent source of hydrogen explosions, which might be interesting if they weren't happening in your home!
If the battery charger or something else on your "grid" starts pulling power, the voltage will drop which should make the pump relay disengage. Shipping can get ugly, but they typically sell for around $300, because that's what Toyota dealers pay to retrieve and recycle them (so try there, too). If you charge them to 100% and discharge to 20% SOC, they likely won't last "as long" as in the car.
Plus the lead cell deep cyle won't freeze which is a major concern for me being in Ottawa Canada. While a deep-cycle battery can be used as a starting battery, the lower "cranking current" imply that an oversized battery may be required. If you have an MPP tracker on your solar panel, it should also prevent against overvoltage. That means you need to buy two more golf cart batteries, but it gives you room for expansion and keeps you cabling cheap. There are YouTube videos that show you how to disassemble the pack safely; if one cell fails, it can be replaced, so it should be easy to assemble packs of any voltage you wish. Now Im reading abut all these other types of batteries so I am really confused as to what kind of batteries would make sense. If you don't want an MPP tracker, make sure that the maximum efficiency of your solar panels is near the nominal voltage of your battery pack!



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