Corroded battery terminal fix you,return car battery to costco,12 volt car battery amp hours voltage - PDF Books

25.04.2015
Voltage-Drop Tests ITransient Current Flow, A Silent KillerVoltage-Drop Tests IIParasitic Draw and Short Battery LifeWhy Does The Engine Not Crank?
Try our new Category View for Detailed topics segregated by their topic.Now it's even easier to find the information you need.
You can also receive our Detailed Auto Topics, delivered to your computer, as soon as they are written. This is what the battery terminal looks like one and a half years AFTER applying StrongArmBrand.
I think that I'm going to have to cut off the tab as I can't loosen the bolt around which the tab is attached. On mine the big neg lead goes to the engine and the smaller one is screwed to the body on the inner fender, by the fuse box under the hood. Get brass terminals, they can be tightened better and dont form themselves around the post so can be tightened more later on.
I used ones like THIS You can put both of the cables under the plate and clamp down with the bolts easily. So get a one of those cheap replacement battery terminals and put them together($3), or a new cable that comes with that pig tail($6)? On another car I had a case where the battery post was not thick enough for the terminal to grab onto.
Way Amigo wrote:On another car I had a case where the battery post was not thick enough for the terminal to grab onto. Methinks you are not understanding what I said because I cannot see how a strip of foil between the post and the terminal is a safety hazard whatsoever.
Just wouldn't run it for long before getting it fixed properly before letting any family member of mine drive it like that. I see exactly what your describing and the reason for it is you either had the wrong battery for your car or the terminal was so worn that it no longer fit. I have had a time or three with no wrench where pushing a screwdriver between the terminal and post gave me a connection or twisting it a bit and the car started. Point being if i had your problem i'd have fixed it already.But if it got me home so much the better. Oh yeah and i said i would have hammered a screwdriver in there but a stubby so you could still close the hood. It is so unlikely that it's a wonder you would let your family members on the road at all, given the much more dangerous conditions there than in this case.
All else being equal, I agree that this should be a temporary fix but to say that it's unduly dangerous is just wrong. I ended up cutting off the old terminal, usied a standard terminal and wiring both negative connectors under the plate. So, tonight I'm going to wire the small connector to one of the bolts, similar to the way it was with the connector tab on the old terminal and give that a try. The negative post is noticably smaller then the positive one, couldnt get the lead one to even tighten on it. The problem with the cable is that the extra lead on it is usually sized for accessories and too small for oem grounding cables, and they usually have lead terminals on them.


I didnt even do that much, just took the cable tie loose from the battery tray and that gave me enough length to reach. If that's what's happening with you, a quick fix might be to wrap some aluminum foil around the battery post to give it some extra thickness so the terminal can grab onto it a little better. If that's what's happening with you, a quick fix might be to wrap some aluminum foil around the battery post to give it some extra thickness so the terminal can grab onto it a little better.If not, hope this helps someone else. The only way would be if you were stupid enough to connect the two terminals with the foil and short out the battery in which case having a driver's license would be the most dangerous aspect of the whole thing. I would never knowingly give out reckless advice that would cause harm to someone and I don't think I did so here. Course this is extreme, but still, I can't imagine that the corrosion would be worse than this. You can't compare that to jamming a penny in a fuse box because that is a safety issue and a real risk of fire since you're eliminating the fuse from the circuit by doing that. Mine did that with less then 1 month old terminals, the negative one came loose and it was tightened as far as it would go. Just make sure if there are fuses or any extra hardware involved that you try to retain it. The only way would be if you were stupid enough to connect the two terminals with the foil and short out the battery in which case having a driver's license would be the most dangerous aspect of the whole thing.It worked for me quite well for the year that I had that car. And yes, it should be fixed properly, especially if other family members are going to be using the car. Also every time you disconnect a battery cable it's a good idea to clean the posts and terminals with a post cleaner. Fortunately it can also be detected and prevented, with a few simple steps.When there is an electrical load in our vehicle, current flows from the battery to the load. Usually when there are seperate leads it means they are trying to seperate the computers and such from the starter loads and surges. And certainly no fire.Methinks you are not understanding what I said because I cannot see how a strip of foil between the post and the terminal is a safety hazard whatsoever. Lead is like aluminum in that it gets a protective oxide coating rapidly when exposed to air.
If a bad engine ground cable is incapable of transmitting this current, it must find another way back to ground. These leads carry a high amp load when starter is turnig so they path is as short as practical. The foil doesn't even show once the terminal is on for crying out loud.And then you say you'd shove a stubby screwdriver in there?
Everything looked fine but when we started tugging on the wires, sure enough, one fell apart. This is called a transient ground, electricity flowing through components other than the battery cables.The engine sits on rubber mounts which cannot conduct current. Instead it can flow through the engine block, into the transmission and out to the suspension through the drive axles to the body ground.
The body is electrically attached to the negative terminal.The current flow leaving and returning to the battery has to be equalIf the cables, grounds and terminals work as designed, current flow is not a problem.


You'd never had known otherwise, except that the motor just stopped dead as I was merging onto another interstate. These parts are not designed to conduct electricity and can quickly be damaged by the flow.Another problem is flow through the engine coolant to the radiator and heater core.
When cranking the vehicle, we turn the key and electricity flows from the battery to the starter motor, through a solenoid.
BE SAFE DISCONNECT EVERYTHING WHILE WORKING ON BATTERY CABLES-NEG IS FIRST OFF LAST ON TO REDUCE SPARKING. The clamp on type replacment terminals in my experience work but will get bad corrosion quickly. We need the solenoid, because the key switch cannot conduct the high amperage needed to operate the starter. This auxiliary power source will help prevent loss of memory in the power control module (PCM) body control module (BCM), security system and radio pre-sets.
It allows the light-duty key switch to control the high-amperage starter motor.After flowing through the starter, the current returns to the battery through the engine block.
They connect the engine to the electrical system with a heavy cable, attached to the negative battery terminal. Loss of adaptive learn can also result in poor idling and transmission shifting concerns.Next the old corroded end is removed and insulation is stripped back from the wire ends. The wires needs to be closely inspected for acid damage.  Often acid will wick up the cables inside of the insulation.
When this happens the cables are damaged and must be replaced to a point beyond where the corrosion exist. If needed a new section of cable can often be spliced into the old cable to replace the damaged section. The current returning to the battery equals that leaving it. Problems occur when corrosion and loose connections cause high resistance. If the starter pulls 275 amps, twenty-five amps will find another path to the negative terminal. This type of joint is exactly the same as the factory cables that come with the vehicle.Other than lower cost, such a tool allows additional grounds to be added if needed.
It also allows for better than original terminals or special terminals to meet specific needs.
Transient current can be measured by placing an amp meter between the starter case and the battery groundTransmission and suspension components are not designed to flow electricity. Larger than stock wire can also be added if found to be needed.Once crimped, the heat shrink is slid into place and shrunk to seal the connection.
AGCO stocks cable and terminals for all applications and can even build custom cables for you.



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Comments Corroded battery terminal fix you

  1. SPAWN
    Tesla Model S, when with someone at my door and accidentally pulled the leads of the tester.
  2. BABNIK
    Have all been more or less indistinguishable.