Charging car battery uk ltd,shipping used lead acid batteries,club car battery voltage be - Step 2

30.12.2014
If you have a 1970s Beetle or Karmann Ghia, you'll probably find the battery in the engine bay.
If you don't have a charger and were just checking the battery, you can put it back in the car and it should work. The battery charger will have two clamps, one for the positive connection on the battery, one for the negative. Until somebody figures out how to build a car that doesn’t rely on a battery, dead batteries will remain the bane of all motorists.
We used to have new (GM) vehicles come in, especially during the winter, with the batteries next to dead. Batteries are probably one of the things that differentiate the novice from the experienced driver. This may sound selfish, but I NEVER carry jumper cables, due to the potential for killing my alternator. No Acid, you never lose the acid potency just the water vapor, so adding acid just creates more gases.
That’s why, if you use a smart charger, you may wonder why it takes so long with the charge current changing radically.
While we recently discussed how to choose the right replacement battery for your car, properly maintaining and charging your car’s battery will prevent battery failures and keep you from unnecessarily having to replace your battery. Charging them for an entire weekend couldn’t bring them back, so the batteries got sent to the battery recycle bin and new ones were installed under warranty.
If your voltage went from 9 to 12.74, it is taking a charge but it may not be able to store it. Sometimes dropping the battery on a cushioned floor (from a few inches above it) will jar loose some of the built-up deposits between the plates. In NY state, battery acid is like compression fittings, the sales person can sell them to you if you ask for them, but if you tell them you are using the acid to refill a battery or the compression fitting to repair a brake line, the salesperson cannot, by law, sell them to you without assuming partial liability.
I found over the years that engines that were maintained so they started quickly with minimum cranking had the longest lasting batteries. One of the major causes of battery failure is improper maintenance of the battery itself or the attached terminals and cables. Then we got a new Divisional Service Manager who told us that the Delco batteries with the green (Delco Eye) had a unique acid formula (his words, I never bothered to check for myself) and thus needed some hefty jump starting in order to stir up things inside. A Battery Tender is great at keeping the battery from sulfating and freezing while not in use and greatly increases the life of a battery.


The battery was rally bad after sitting in a car not used in two months, multimeter showed just above 9 volts.
Corrosion of the battery posts and the cables that attach to it can reduce the ability of the charging system to re-invigorate the battery and lead to a constantly undercharged battery that could let you down when you least expect it.
I had one of these I pirated from a 70’s Toronado in a 1963 Pontiac four door hardtop for over ten years, and it never did cause a problem, summer or winter. Proper cleaning of the terminals and replacement of frayed cables will ensure the charging amps being produced by the alternator or generator are making their way into the battery. If you are storing an RV, boat, motorcycle, lawn tractor or classic car through the winter consider the use of a tender. It’s a non-serviceable battery but I removed sticker and could then easily pop the cover and check electrolyte level, which was fine on all cells.
For those traditional batteries that still have removable caps, the water level inside should also be periodically checked. The battery will not recharge to its full potential unless the plates inside the battery are covered in electrolyte.
As the battery charges, the chemical reaction releases water vapor, which will lower the water level in the battery. It reads 12.74 volts, which should indicate a pretty much full battery, shouldn’t it? On some sealed batteries, the vapor is reclaimed, while many import car non-sealed batteries use a vent tube that expels vapor and gases safely away from the battery.
For recharging a dead battery, there are several different types of battery chargers to consider. These chargers will provide a sufficient jump charge of amps in place of your bad battery, and the charging system should produce enough amps to maintain the electrical system until the battery can be fully recharged. Jump boxes usually provide between 500 and 1,200 amps of boost for starting, but they are not meant to be used as a charger. Commercial chargers will recharge a battery quickly at a high amp rate, usually 60 to 100 amps per hour and will have a separate boost switch for jump starting that provides 50 to 250 amps for starting power. Commercial chargers will also have a timer that can be preset to protect the battery from overcharging. Most home-use chargers are medium-duty units that charge your battery at between 5 and 50 amps.
Features may include a small boost charger, timer or automatic shut-off that senses when the battery is approaching full charge and shuts itself off.


These smaller battery chargers take longer to complete a recharge, but are less likely to cause damage to your battery over a commercial fast rate unit.
When storing a car over several weeks or months, the possibility of the battery discharging while at rest is another concern.
Newer vehicles have computers and other power accessories that remain active while the car is at rest, and these electrical items can slowly drain a battery until it no longer has enough cranking amps to start the vehicle.
The trickle charger produces a constant small amp charge, usually 2 amps or less, that keeps the battery fully charged while at rest. The trickle charger can also keep the battery from freezing in extreme cold because the chemical reaction it causes during the recharge process produces a small amount of heat. Some of the 500 milliamp chargers still need to be monitored and disconnected periodically; however, most trickle chargers you see on the market today have an automatic shut-off and turn-on mode that will maintain your battery over extended periods of time without constant checking. Most battery manufacturers recommend that you use a trickle charger to recharge a discharged battery. Because the amp ratings are low, the trickle charger can efficiently bring the battery back up to full charge slowly without causing any excess heat or sulfating caused by chargers with larger amp rates. If you are considering outfitting a garage or storage area for your car, it is recommended that you invest in both a trickle charger and a larger unit with an emergency boost mode to cover all bases. Known brand names such as Schauer, Exide, Battery Tender, Die Hard and Schumacher may be more expensive, but have been found to be more reliable and longer-lasting than cheaper models. Brand name units can also be rebuilt, while cheaper units are often bounced off the wall or driven over in anger when they fail.
First, make sure both vehicles share the same voltage and either positive or negative grounding before attempting to use jumper cables. Most (but not all) six-volt systems are positive grounds and most (but not all) 12-volt systems are negative grounds, but check to make sure, especially with British cars. Crossing wires or supplying too much voltage will cause a battery to explode or leave you with two vehicles in need of a jump.
Additionally, after hooking up the vehicle to be charged first, install the positive on the vehicle supplying the juice and the negative to a convenient ground on the block instead of the negative battery terminal. This ensures that, if there is a spark when the last collection is made, it will not be near the battery where gases could ignite.



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