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If you turn your car key and get nothing, or get anything less than an engine roaring to life, you might be in for a bad day. In order to troubleshoot a no-start problem, you need to start at the beginning of the line, the battery, and work your way back. Check Your Fuses: Few cars have a fuse associated with the starting system, but before you go monkeying around with everything, check your fuses to be sure it's not that simple. Bad Igntion Switch: If your battery checks out, but the starter is still silent, it may be a faulty ignition switch.
Bad Starter Connection: Corrosion can not only keep your battery from connecting, it can affect any electrical component, especially the ones exposed to the elements like the starter. With the starter-related causes of your no-start problem out of the way, we continue the search for why your car won't start.
Coil Testing: To properly test your ignition coil you'll need a multimeter that can measure impedance.
Distributor Cap: Your no-start problem probably isn't caused by your distributor cap, but occasionally, especially during wet weather, a faulty cap can keep your car from starting. If the starter is spinning and the sparks are flying, your no-start problem has got to be related to the fuel system. Electrical Connections: There are plenty of electrical connections in your fuel injection system. Fuel Pump and Relay: To check your fuel pump, you can do a fuel system pressure test - if you have the equipment.
Fuel Filter: If the fuel pump is working properly and fuel is still not reaching the engine, the problem could be a clogged fuel filter. With the major systems checked out, there are a number of other things you can check to see why your car won't start - if you have the patience.
Loose Starter: Loose starter bolts will cause it to dance around and wiggle, failing to turn the engine over. Bad Injectors: A bad injector can throw the whole fuel system off and keep the engine from firing, especially when the engine is warm. Faulty Cold Start Valve: A failed cold start valve will keep your car from starting when the engine is cold.
Chipped Flywheel or Ring Gear: Your starter's gear connects with the gear teeth on your flywheel or ring gear (depending on transmission type). Bad ECU or MAF:If your engine's main computer or any part of the system's electronics go bad, your car won't start. The engine starts but dies. If your car has a carburetor check your carburetor adjustment and your choke to see whether the choke is first closing and then opening. The engine misses while idling. Check the points (if your car has a non-electronic distributor) and the spark plugs. The engine misses or hesitates during acceleration. Check the accelerator pump in the carburetor (if equipped), the spark plugs, the distributor, and the timing. If it won't start, make sure that the cables are properly connected and have the GS run his or her engine for five minutes. MY CAR WONT START IS IT THE BATTERY OR ALTERNATORYesterday i replaced alternator install in excess.
PS: I know there is a X305 forum, but there is nearly nobody and i just want to bring the car back to the garage fast as i can.
Can't begin to say why, but it appears your car thinks it is locked; therefore, one push of the lock button on the FOB brings on the headlights which is normal behaviour for the 2nd push. In case i use the key on drivers door it will lock up, but it dont matter if the trunk is open (normaly in my mind it should't do that, and if its open and you try to lock it IT should beeeep).

It is the action of pressing the brake pedal that allows the shifter to move out of park "P".
Ok, do you hear the solenoid beneath the ski slope panel clicking when you press the brake pedal? You can manually bypass the solenoid by removing the plastic torx head screw beside the shifter and gently push your key, a biro, or similar down into the hole and depress the lever beneath. Car wont start and brake will not depressAnyways, now I try to crank it up and the brake pedal wont go down at all.
Published 07:00 AM, Tue March 22, 2016View Comments WHY WON’T MY CAR BATTERY HOLD A CHARGE? Knowing how to jumpstart a car battery is a good skill to have—but what happens when it’s not enough? Starting problems can be very frustrating because there are so many things under the hood that can keep a car from starting. Some tests for a no-start problem are simple, others are a pain in the neck and a technical nightmare.
This corrosion breaks the connection your battery has with the rest of the car, and it won't start. If you have a battery tester that can measure cranking amps, test your battery to see if it's weak. If you have a helper, you can test the connection by holding a circuit tester lead on the wire that engages the starter. If you don't have a multimeter, there is an easier test you can perform using simple hand tools.
Inspect the wire to see if there are any obvious cracks or splits, then test for continuity using a circuit tester.
If your vehicle is fuel injected, there are a number of sub systems that could be the culprit.
Since most of us don't have that type of thing, we'll first check the electrical connections. You should be replacing your fuel filter every 12,000 miles or so anyway, so if you suspect it could be clogged, go ahead and replace it. There are many other elements of your fuel injection system that require electronic diagnosis. Unfortunately you'll need to leave this type of diagnostic work to a qualified repair shop. If you left your lights, radio, or some other electrical gizmo on after you parked the car, you know what the trouble is: Your battery is dead. If you find moisture, get some mechanic's solvent from your friendly service station — they use it to clean car parts — or buy an aerosol can of it at an auto supply store. Gasoline won't do because a spark can ignite gasoline fumes and cause an explosion or a fire.
The owner's manual can tell you whether your vehicle needs regular unleaded or premium gasoline. If you don't have jumper cables, you'll have to find a Good Samaritan who not only is willing to assist you but has jumper cables as well.
Place both cars in Park or Neutral, with their ignitions shut off and their emergency brakes on. First, attach one of the red clips to the positive terminal of your battery (it has "POS" or "+" on it, or it's bigger than the negative terminal). Attach the last black clip to an unpainted metal surface on your car that isn't near the carburetor (if your car has one) or battery. Starting off as a small lot, we have grown into the #1 Buy Here-Pay Here in Indianapolis. We here at Advance Auto Sales strive for the upmost customer service.

I suppose you've tried the obvious things: Unlocking with the FOB and also with the Key in driver's door? Perhaps you can cheat it by locking manually, remove battery power and then reattach, while it actually IS locked? It operates a solenoid beside the shifter, beneath the wood panel and you should hear a "click" when you press the brake.
Most of the time when your car won’t start, you assume it’s because there is a problem with the battery. If you can't test it yourself, you can test the battery indirectly by jump-starting the car. If the red warning lights on your dash don't light up (and your battery connections are clean), the ignition switch is bad. It will take some serious diagnostic work to figure it out, but there are some things you can check in the garage that will narrow it down, and could save you some money by avoiding a trip to the repair shop.
Unless you are familiar with this and have the right equipment, it is best to leave this to the pros.
To evaporate any dampness inside the distributor cap, turn the cap upside down and pour or spray some solvent into it.
Be sure no part of your body is near the moving parts of the engine - it could still start at any time!
Basically you should check every electrical connection you can find under the hood to be sure it's tight. If you have fuel injection, you'll need to have a professional diagnose the cold-start problems. Ignition system troubleshooting isn't too difficult when you're looking for a no-start problem. When you try to start the car, the lights should either dim (a lot) or turn off completely.
Perform the following tests to find out: The first thing to do is try to turn on your headlights. If they come on with their normal brightness, your problem is probably a bad starter or poor wiring—not the battery. If the lights do not come on at all, or if they’re dimmer than normal, then the problem is more likely with the battery.To test the voltage of your battery, get a voltmeter and connect the red lead to the positive terminal, the black lead to the negative terminal.
When the battery is run down, but the headlights seem to shine at full strength, usually the starter makes click-click-click noises. If so, then the simplest solution may be to have the battery replaced.Something else to consider is that the problem is your alternator. If you detect cracking or fraying in the alternator cables, that’s an obvious sign that something’s off. And if you jump start the car only for the battery to quickly lose its charge and the engine to stall, that’s suggestive of an alternator issue.Even if you do believe you’ve discovered the exact problem, you’ll probably want to get an expert opinion. Buying a new battery when the alternator is the real problem—or vice versa—will prove highly frustrating when you end up spending more money than necessary. But after the car is running the starter has nothing to do with keeping the engine going.

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