Car battery wet gel agm 003,battery operated car gps tracker,can remote car starter drain battery,car battery audi a4 2004 - PDF Review

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Batteries are at the heart of all our radio control systems and they represent a single, often fatal, point of failure. One word of warning – if you supply NiCd battery cyclers, don’t read this – you won’t like it! Simply put a battery is a store of chemicals that when allowed to react under controlled conditions produce the electrical charge. Before I continue, “rabbiting” on about charge, and start on about current and voltage let me offer a simple analogy that will (hopefully) allow those with out a working knowledge of electrickery understand some of these concepts. Recently Lithuim batteries have become widely avaiable and popular with the electric plane jockeys. In practice, we cannot change the way we discharge our batteries, they are connected to the radio, glow plug or whatever and they discharge! Lead acid batteries will be your 12V flight box battery and the ‘car battery’ you use for charging the flight batteries of an electric powered model. General-purpose car batteries that are sold as maintenance free or sealed are not always gel batteries. For field charging of flight batteries, choose a deep cycle battery, sometimes called a ‘Leisure Battery’.
There are also small cylindrical 2V Cyclone lead acid batteries, which are unique (even though they are based on lead acid chemistry). This means that the voltage is maintained at a fixed level by the charger (fixed pressure) and as the battery charges (the bucket fills up) the current will drop (water flow rate) from an initial high value to virtually zero.
Now to complicate things; in simple terms there are two charging methods referred to as ‘float charge’ and ‘cyclic charge’. This refers to a charger that can be left connected indefinitely to the battery with out damaging it. This refers to a charger that can bring a battery to full charge in a short time, generally about 8 hours. The good news is that most modern chargers automatically switch between these two modes of operation.
For those with the means to check their chargers the voltages for the various modes and battery types are given below. From the above you will (I hope) have worked out that it is important to ensure the charger used is suitable for the battery you are charging. A suitable unit would be the Draper 12v Intelligent Battery Charger, which as a RRP of about ?40, but can be obtained for as little as ?30 if you shop around. If you are only charging, a small 7Ahr flight box battery the Clarke 12V Trickle charger is ideal. These can also be connected permanently to a larger battery that you won’t be using for weeks or months, to keep it in good condition. Looked after properly lead acid batteries can last for years, a lot longer than the 5-year warranty you get on most car batteries. Unfortunately, I have yet to find a supplier of suitable chargers; I have always constructed my own. The Cyclon is better than other lead acids for long-term storage and can be left for about 12 months between charges if fully charged to start with. I am going to discuss these batteries types as if they are the same and to save typing call them NiXX.
NiXX batteries now come in a bewildering variety of types, capacities, capabilities and can be made up into packs of any number of cells, which means different voltages. In terms of our water analogy, this means that water is fed into the bucket at a constant rate through the hole in the bottom. As with lead acid batteries there are two basic charging methods, both constant current, depending on how much current is used relative to the cell capacity. All equipment that is sold with NiXX batteries in will be supplied with a suitable battery charger (unless anybody knows different!). The main limitation with the slow chargers provided is that you can’t quickly charge the batteries if there is a last minute change of plans, the weather improves or the wife says “why don’t you go flying instead of coming shopping with me?” (Yes I know that these are rare events but they do happen occasionally!) A third party fast charger goes some way towards eliminating this problem. As there are so many options for choosing a fast charger, I will only highlight the main features and possible problems. To complicate things further the ‘bump’ in the charge curve for NiMH is far less pronounced than in NiCd and temperature dependent. DO NOT assume that all fast chargers are suitable for NiCd and NiMH, check the manufactures data. DO NOT charge NiMH faster than 0.75C unless you have checked that the manufacture allows this. That said I know that NiMH are now used extensively for power packs and given very fast charges as a result.
A couple of years ago I bought a Mainlink 6 channel charger for my radio batteries, transmitters and receivers. This does not apply to batteries used for flight packs, because you guys really do ‘cane’ these, with 10C discharges and 3-4C charges, until they get hot enough to fry eggs! Does this mean that you should automatically replace your batteries at say 5 years and 4 years? Transmitters always have a battery meter, and you can get cheap monitors for your receiver batteries. I would recommend that you purchase a digital multi-meter for monitoring receiver battery packs, as they are useful for other things (checking none-chargeable batteries, testing fuses and light bulbs, measuring skin resistance to see how stressed you after your model crashes because you didn’t check the batteries – that sort of thing).
There are a number of myths surrounding the use of NiCd (and to some extent NiMH batteries) including “Memory Effect” and the need to “Cycle” your batteries. The Memory Effect defined as a loss of capacity due to repeated discharges of less than 100% does not and has not ever existed in the types of NiCd batteries you are using in your model.
True Memory Effect only ever happened in sintered plate NiCd cells and it only happens when you precisely discharge a cell to exactly the same level over and over again, and recharge it without any overcharge. Even if you were using sintered plate NiCd cells you do not discharge them by precisely the same amount each and every time you use them. In equipment with a voltage determined end point, the problem can be cured by fully discharging the battery and recharging, and this has lead to the second myth;- the need to cycle NiCd batteries. There is some evidence that very slow charging or operating at high temperatures can lead to ‘large’ cadmium crystal growth.
So you do not need to cycle your batteries (just ‘re-cycle’ them when you eventually dispose of them after many years good service). If you still don’t believe me and want to cycle them, just do so occasionally, but don’t bother with a special discharger. I couldn't find a picture of battery cycling so I have used this picture of 'batty' cyclists instead!
Most street rodders have a good grasp of their car's mechanical needs but selecting components that have to do with the starting and charging system often cause some confusion. All automotive batteries have one thing in common; they use a combination of lead and acid to produce a little over 2 V per cell (as a result 6V batteries have three cells, 12V have six). Although they produce electricity in a similar manner, there are three different configurations of lead acid batteries: wet cell, gel cell, and absorbed glass mat (AGM). Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) batteries, like this selection from Optima, come in starting, deep cycle, and marine configurations. Wet Cell: Are flooded batteries that use liquid electrolyte and come in two styles, serviceable and maintenance free. AGM: These are unique in that the electrolyte is suspended in an absorbent fiberglass material, eliminating the need to flood the battery with liquid. CCA-Cold cranking amps is a measurement of the number of amps a battery can deliver at 0 degrees F for 30 seconds and not drop below 7.2 V.
One of the peculiarities of AGM and Gel batteries is that some chargers may not work with them.
If you've ever jumped into your street rod only to find the battery dead, you understand the necessity of keeping the battery "hot." One of the best methods to do that is with the use of a battery maintainer.
Sooner or later you'll have to remove or replace a battery and like everything else there's a right and wrong way to do it. Batteries do pose a hazard due to the hydrogen gas that may be present during and after charging that can be ignited by a spark. Normally all the power for the electrical system is delivered by the alternator when the engine is running. Alternators are rated by their maximum output, a good rule of thumb is to pick an alternator that has 20 percent more capacity than the total demand of the electrical system. The best way to eliminate starting and charging issues is to choose the proper components and maintain them regularly. While slipping belts that squeal are annoying they also create another problem—excess heat. Swollen car batteries are more than a mess as they can neither be repaired nor can be put up for sale. The main source of a swollen battery is the excessive heat (thermal rundown) which causes the battery to swell out of its casing. In most cases, the dry batteries become the main victim of swelling as the fluid inside the wet cells boils inside the battery. This item will be sent through the Global Shipping Programme and includes international tracking. Items delivered internationally may be subject to customs processing depending on the item's declared value.

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If you change your mind about the product and return it to us, you will be asked to contribute to the product shipping costs. You have read and agree to the Global Shipping Program terms and conditions - opens in a new window or tab. Import charges previously quoted are subject to change if you increase you maximum bid amount. It has been suggested that it would be useful to share these thoughts with a wider audience, which is what I am attempting to do here. At this point, I will stop with the boring details but just say that in generally, the small 7Ahr flight box battery, the Cyclone cell and the more expensive batteries will be ‘gel’ type. They will be what they say on the tin – sealed, but the electrolyte may still be liquid inside. The exact value of the fixed charging voltage determines which of these methods is applied. In theory, the battery never reaches 100% charge on this voltage (unless left for an infinite time). Now comes the difficult bit – different types (gel or wet) require different charging voltages, particularly for the float charge mode. Many modern chargers include these options, but if you are using a gel battery ensure that they state suitable for gel batteries, not just maintenance free batteries. This build up occurs when the sulphur molecules in the electrolyte (battery acid) become so deeply discharged that they begin to coat the battery's lead plates. The most common cause of failure with our batteries will be deep discharge followed by sitting too long with out a charge, probably in the cold as well. Eventually the flight box battery dies, but you ‘keep’ trying just in case the engine kicks into life one more time (fat chance), until the battery won’t even light a torch bulb.
I prefer a separate battery for the glow plug, rather than the more common arrangement of having a 1.5-2V source derived from the 12V flight box battery.
I generally only connect this to the cell every third session, but that depends on how long you leave the cell connected to the glow. If it is not going to be used for long periods, then connect to a float charger at 2.3V or top it up regularly. The purists out there will now be howling into their cornflakes “oh no they are not – they’re different you philistine”. As the water rises in the bucket, we need to increase the pressure (voltage) to ensure the flow remains constant. The actual rates are not precisely defined so I will use my own definitions as described below. If we restrict the discussion to radio control equipment then these are invariably slow chargers for the receiver and transmitter batteries. They are safe to use, won’t harm the batteries and reliable (because they are very simple).
I suppose most are designed for charging flight packs in electric powered models, but others are very useful for charging radio system batteries. Peak detection relies on they fact that when fast charging the voltage of the battery rises continuously, until at ‘full charge’ it drops slightly. I have taken to using 5 cell NiMH receiver packs with high capacities of 1500mAhr+ to power modern digital servos. These are not a very accurate (due to the nature of the batteries, not the integrity of the meter) but they will give you a guide. Alternatively a number of dedicated battery checkers are available in model shops and specialist outlets e.g.
If you examine an old battery pack which has lost its punch you may find the wire coming from the negative terminal is corroded, black in colour, brittle and impossible to solder. However if the battery is charged properly, not left on a slow charger indefinitely and not discharged to ‘flat’ very often, these other failure modes will be unlikely to trouble you.
True memory effect happens in satellite power systems, electronics test labs, and practically nowhere else.
I have also told you that battery memory is a myth, and apparent loss of capacity due to voltage depression does not happen with our model radio systems. This in turn can lead to higher internal resistance and voltage depression without overcharging.
Just leave the system on for a few hours until the receiver or transmitter stops working, then recharge with a slow charge.
I will post some notes on Lithium when I have time and I'm confident that I know what I'm talking about. The cells are made up of lead plates and electrolyte solution, which together cause a chemical reaction to produce electricity. Both are filled with liquid electrolyte but as the names imply water can be added to the serviceable style while the maintenance free is sealed. This design makes AGM batteries spill proof and vibration resistant with the added advantage that they can be mounted in almost any position (however upside down is not usually recommended). In most cases these batteries are very sensitive to overcharging and premature failure may result. A high CCA battery rating is especially important for starting battery applications in cold climates.
This is the number of minutes a fully charged battery at 80 degrees F will discharge 25 amps until the battery drops below 10.5 V. If a battery is rated at 100 amp hours it should deliver 5 amps for 20 hours, 20 amps for 5 hours and so on. If the battery is used regularly for starting, lighting, and ignition needs a starting battery is a good choice.
Basically these batteries have such low internal resistance that many older chargers react as though the battery is shortened internally and simply won't throw a charge. For that reason when a battery is removed always disconnect the ground cable first—if the wrench hits ground there won't be a spark because the battery is already grounded.
Connect the second cable to the negative on the good battery, and then make the final connection away from the dead battery on a good metal ground.
The only time that this isn't the case is when current capacity of the alternator is exceeded, which may happen at very low idle speeds with all the electrical accessories turned on.
Another critical factor is the gauge of the charge wire from the alternator to the battery.
As our friends at Powermaster explain it, "The starter circuit pulls a lot of amperage, up to 500 amps depending on the starter, the engine load, and battery condition. A worn V-belt will often ride low enough in the pulley to make contact with the bottom of the groove.
Over tightening belts is often blamed for knocking the bearings out of alternators; the fact is far more alternator bearings are ruined by heat generated by slipping belts. The engine, frame, and body must all have a good ground path leading back to the battery (on fiberglass cars special attention must be given to grounding all electrical components). However, if it's being used to keep the battery from running down overnight there are problems that should be addressed. For AGM gel and flooded batteries Optima offers the Digital 1200 Charger and Battery Maintainer. The compact Digital 400 Maintainer and Battery Charger from Optima can be used as a marine battery charger, motorcycle battery charger, or to charge and maintain other AGM batteries.
For convenience the Optima chargers come with connectors that can be permanently installed on the battery. A battery shut-off switch is always a good idea, and unless a racing organization says otherwise, they should always be in the positive cable. In most cases starters are trouble-free, although some situations an engine may require higher torque that stock unit can produce. The most accurate means of determining amp load is with an ammeter, however a pretty accurate guesstimate can be made by using specs from the manufacturers of the electrical components in use and the following chart. Modern serpentine belt systems, like the FrontRunner from Vintage Air use a tensioner to keep the belt tight.
V-belts are still common but be aware there are quality problems with the cheap offshore variety. When checking the adjustment of a V-belt it should move approximately 1?2 inch when you press on it between the pulleys, or it should twist 90 degrees.
In parallel situations, it is above necessary to get the car battery either trashed or replaced.
If your car is producing too much heat, then keeping an eye on the battery can be the biggest bet as you can replace the battery before it swells and spills the fluid juice all inside the engine. In dry batteries, the temperature rises more rapidly which increases the production of gas inside the battery. Estimated delivery dates - opens in a new window or tab include seller's dispatch time, and will depend on postal service selected.
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If you reside in an EU member state besides UK, import VAT on this purchase is not recoverable. My direct experience encompasses designing commercial & military chargers for both lead acid and NiCds, including various fast chargers. Eventually all the chemicals are converted, and no more charge can be drawn from the battery; it is flat. The starting battery is designed to deliver quick bursts of current (such as starting engines) and have a greater plate count. This means that the liquid (the electrolyte) in the battery has been treated to make it like a jelly, so that it doesn’t spill, even if the battery case is punctured.
It also has a tendency to evaporate and requires topping up with deionised water regularly.
The time it takes to bring a battery to full charge will be a function of its output current in relation to the battery capacity. When the charge current falls below a preset value the voltage is lowered to the float charge value. You will not harm a wet battery charging it with a gel charger (it may simply take a bit longer to charge) but the reverse is not true. Similar trickle chargers for this type of battery can be obtained from model shops, when you buy the battery. The statistics for batteries fitted to cars are something like only 30% of batteries sold today reach the 48-month mark.

Then you stomp off home, leave the flight box in the shed for a week or more, while the temperature drops during the unexpected cold snap. With two separate batteries you can at least attempt to flick start the engine if the 12V battery is flat. The lower voltage is the 'float' charge voltage and the cell can be left connected to this indefinitely. However, for most practical purposes as far as we are concerned they are essentially the same.
It is a relatively safe charge rate and the battery can be left connected for long periods without damage.
At these high currents, the batteries will get hot and the potential for overcharging, with disastrous consequences, is very high. With out exception that I know of, they all use the same technique for determining when to terminate the high current charge, called peak detection. Ideally, they will detect that the ‘rate of change’ falls to zero, rather than look for a drop from a peak. I confess to having no significant experience of electric flight (tried it and got tired of waiting to recharge the flight pack!) and the stresses it puts on batteries. The separator breaks down allowing the plates (electrodes) to touch and short out the battery. Charge the batteries to capacity and the monitor the battery voltage over a few days to a week by turning the system on briefly.
Try to ‘wiggle’ connections and pull on wires while operating a servo to check for problems. It is usually corroded for its whole length, from the negative terminal right up to the switch or plug. If you expect the temperatures to be consistently above 30°C with high humidity then you can put the batteries in the fridge, not the freezer. Frankly, I do not believe either, nor can I find any solid scientific proof of either; lots of apocryphal stories but no hard evidence, and believe me I have tried! I do this occasionally – not consciously, I just forget to switch the damn radio off once in a while!
As the battery discharges, the electrolyte reacts with the plates changing the composition of their surface.
However, for street rod applications where the vehicle may be stored for extended periods a deep cycle battery is preferable. Another issue can be that older chargers may overcharge an AGM or Gel battery causing permanent damage. With the ground removed if the wrench hits metal while removing the positive cable there won't be a spark because there isn't a complete circuit with the ground removed.
By doing this any spark created will be away from the battery and any explosive hydrogen fumes. Alternators are rated by their amperage output, so when it comes time to select one it's important to know how many amps the electrical system consumes.
Generally all electrical items will have their supply demands included with the instructions. The basic rule here is bigger is better—eight-gauge is usually recommended for alternators in the 85- to 125-amp range, six-gauge for 125-150 amps, and four-gauge for anything larger. However the real issue is almost always low voltage to the starter caused by inadequate wiring and battery cables.
This kind of amperage stresses all of the components in the starter circuit, including the battery, battery terminals, the battery disconnect switch, the cables, including the ground path, and any remote solenoids. As serpentine belts wear they lose material and the pulleys "bottom out" in the belt's grooves. That prevents the sides of the belt from making good contact with the sides of the pulley groove as it should.
It's also critical that paint, powdercoating, and rust are cleaned from any grounding surface. Maintenance includes cleaning with a baking soda and water solution to neutralize contamination from the charging process and checking water level.
It recovers deeply AGM discharged batteries that other chargers can't without the danger of overcharging. It's advisable to have a 20 percent cushion on the charging systems requirements and make sure the charge wire is sized appropriately. The result is that repetitive clicking of the solenoid that results in burned contacts like those shown here. Serpentine belts should be replaced when they become worn, frayed, glazed, or are severely cracked. Since the swollen battery can be sold for scrap however, there are a few reasons why a swollen battery is bad for your car, its engine and its performance.
GEL Battery Manufacturers suggests placing the batteries at the passenger side to prevent over production of heat and to extend the operating life of the battery. In case of lost delivery we may write to your immediate neighbours to trace and find the parcel.
I have also spent many hours researching ‘memory effect’, which in my opinion has much in common with the Loch Ness Monster! Fortunately, the rechargeable types allow those chemical reactions to be reversed and electricity converts the chemicals back to a state where they can release the charge again. The force driving the current is the pressure of the water; this is ‘voltage’ in electrical terms. However if the battery is completely flat before charging it may never recover on a float charger. In some cases, particularly certain makes of gel batteries, the minimum charge time is controlled by the battery chemistry and cannot not be shortened not matter how much current the charger can put out. This would be a very rapid cyclic charge for a gel battery, and if left on would soon damage it.
Again, most modern charges are designed for gel types or have a switch on them for selecting the battery type. Then you think about going flying so you wack the charger on the battery and give it a quick charge before you go up the field again.
The higher voltage is the 'cyclic' charge voltage and the cell should be disconnected from this when it is charged.
The current darin will be higher (you get nothing for free!) and so I go for 1500-2000mAh packs.
Again, in all of the cases I know, the charger then changes the current to the equivalent of a slow charge.
I consider building my own or adapting a ‘spare’ unit from my stock of old military chargers, but decided it was far easier to buy a purpose designed unit. The batteries in our radio system can reasonably be expected to last far longer, probably for 1000’s of part discharge cycles. The cause of black wire corrosion is not clear, but is probably the escape of potassium hydroxide from the inside of the cell. On removal from storage, slow charge for the first time before use, as they will normally be flat due to self-discharge. This reduction in cell voltage causes the voltage sensing circuit to declare “Flat Battery” before it should. However, it is extremely unlikely to happen with model radio batteries; even our slow chargers are not slow enough to cause this effect. When the battery is recharged, the chemical reaction is reversed, restoring the plates to their original condition—the process is repeated during the discharge and charging cycles. Another way is to use an inductive ammeter with a "peak hold" function clamped around the battery cable while the car is running. That low voltage causes that familiar rapid clicking from the starter, which is caused by voltage too low to keep the starter solenoid or relay engaged—the result of that racket is not only an engine that won't start but burned electrical contacts in those components.
Problems with these components are hard to find because they appear fine at rest or under a light load, but generate high resistance under heavy amperage draws. This reduced friction causes slippage; a belt worn enough to bottom-out should be replaced. Due to the nature of the chemical reactions how we get the charge back into the battery is critical to correct operation of the battery. A higher pressure will cause the flow to be larger (a higher voltage will give a bigger current) all other things being equal.
These are often referred to as trickle chargers, but that term has been incorrectly applied to low rate cyclic chargers (below) in the past. At the other extreme wet cells can be recharged very quickly, but at the risk of causing an explosion if you get it ‘little bit wrong’!! Therefore, you will need to draw your own conclusions about the expected life of flight batteries. However, the cause isn’t important - just examine your batteries occasionally to ensure they are not suffering from it. Do not fast charge as there is an outside chance that you could damage on of the cells of the pack due to ‘cell reversal’.
In fact, there is plenty of charge left; the battery is just operating at a very slightly lower voltage. While the latter method would be more accurate since it would be testing the electrical system as a whole in real world conditions, it's not always the most practical. The result will be low voltage to the starter during cranking, resulting in heavier amperage draw and increased internal heat in the starter.
If the water is flowing out of a hole in the bottom of the bucket, the bigger the hole the less pressure it takes to drive out a given flow. The so-called Dual Purpose Battery is only a compromise between the two types of batteries. If batteries are to be left in storage for more than 12 months, it is a good idea to charge them periodically, say once every 6 months.
The point is that when everything is turned on at the same time, the amperage demands on the electrical system can be surprisingly high so select an alternator accordingly. The size of the hole is a measure of its resistance to the flow; again, this is analogous to electrical resistance. It is a waste of time trying to press it back into service by soldering on a new lead and plug.
In addition, it does not occur with your radio system as your radio system does not switch off at any point defined by a precise voltage sensor (it would be fun if it did – NOT!). A bucket of water emptying through a hole is similar to a battery discharging into a ‘load’ (a load is anything the battery is supplying current to). With a battery as it discharges the voltage drops, the current falls, until eventually, there is no voltage and no current. Now that is about as far as I can push this analogy, but I will keep come back to it as required.

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Comments Car battery wet gel agm 003

  1. Free_BoY
    The starter this item in the past have given it four out.
  2. Azeri
    Are 12 volt batteries and you hook both + (positive) terminals together case opener which.