Car battery voltage starting 2014,3 step lead acid battery charger not,vector 12v battery charger manual - PDF 2016

12.04.2014
Surely if it's Overcharging the Battery, this can't be good for the Battery in the Long-term? Problems related to the VR on Fuel Injected Models (GS, Dakar and CS) are not known (December 2006). Okay, so you have worked out you need to fix your VR (either as a pre-emptive maintenance, or because your VR is stuffed).
This link s to a very nice schematic and theory of operation for the VR of a Suz*k* GS400E, which I believe is interchangeable with the one in the Classic (except for connectors).
I suppose if your VR fried and you're handy with a soldering iron, you could build your own replacement following this schematic.
Either attach the probes to the battery, or get a helper to hold the voltmeter probes to the battery. This writeup covers replacing the OEM voltage rectifier on the F650 "Classic" with a voltage rectifier from a 2000-or-later F650GS and relocating the VR outside of the seat pan.
NOTE: The molex pins and pin tool can be readily located at Radio Shack (or similar stores). We will reuse the yellow-wired connector attached to the VR: this is a 4-pin connector with only 3 of the pins in use. Use the razor knife and a lot of care to remove the black wrapping and electrical tape from the wire bundle. Cut off the OEM connectors - leave as much wire as possible on the red and green wires, leave 6" of the yellow wires. Insert the pins into the connector from the old VR making sure to leave the originally-empty pin empty. Use the crimp connectors to attach a length of red ignition coil wire to each of these wires (we need to extend them to reach the battery from the VR's new location). Take one of the ring terminals and connect it to both of these extended wires (both red wires into the same ring terminal). With the 2 green wires from the VR - repeat the procedure for the red wires, but use the green ignition coil wire lengths.


Coat the wire connections and entry into the ring terminals with liquid electrical tape to waterproof them.
Now we will prepare the motorcycle for relocating the VR - the new location will be outside of the seat pan, adjacent to the coolant overflow tank for the radiator.
You should be able to seperate the airbox halves enough to easily remove the snorkel from the airbox. At this point you must decide whether you'd like to modify or completely eliminate the snorkel from the airbox. Take the razor knife and cut away the outer two "ribs" from the snorkel - this will reduce its overall length by roughly 2". Locate the bolt that holds on the helmet holder cable - remove that bolt, discard the cable. Take the new bolt, thread it through the VR (fins on the VR go OUT from the motorcycle), add three washers, add the spacer, add the remaining washer (the one that remained from the helmet cable). Thread the bolt into the hole with some blue Loc-Tite (you might consider replacing the threaded clip here with a real nut - while I haven't had any issues after 3 months of street riding, rough roads or off-road use may require more tightening than the original clip can handle). Adjust the VR to ensure clearance between the VR and the overflow tank and between the VR and the snorkel (if you're not eliminating the snorkel) before you tighten down the bolt.
The yellow wires from the VR (with connector from the old one) connects back where the old VR's yellow wires came from.
The red wires connect to the positive battery terminal (apply dielectric grease to the ring terminal from the VR, any other wires going to the positive terminal, the terminal itself and the terminal bolt). If you require further details regarding the transaction data, please contact the supplier directly. On the FI models, the VR was relocated to allow more effective cooling (down to the bottom right of the engine). It may also be a good idea to replace your battery with an AGM battery too - especially if your last battery was fried by the VR. For this solution is is highly recommended you also replace the battery with a new AGM battery.


Heat can affect your results, so make sure you measure the voltage not just once the bike is warmed up, but try measuring it after 30 minutes of riding if you can. The GS rectifier has 3 yellow wires going to one connector, and two each of red and green going to a second connector.
No source has been found for the mating ends of these connectors, so they aren't useful for this job. If you eliminate the snorkel, you will need to drop the needles in the carberator by one notch.
There is a washer on this bolt - leave it in place against the overflow tank (my bike was dirty enough that it just kind of stuck there).
Before making the connection, put a blob of dielectric grease in each of the female connectors to prevent corrosion. However just because you have a Fuel Injected bike, does not mean you will not encounter a failed VR.
The flay essentially connects the "Monitor" input to the "Battery" output via a relay that is activated by the ignition switch. However, if a starter battery is discharged deeply (more than 20-25% depth of charge), its plates can be permanently damaged and the lifetime of the battery greatly reduced. The reason is that the "monitor" input is returned via several connectors and contacts inside the ignition switch. Deep cycle batteries have fewer thicker lead plates, and so cannot discharge energy so quickly, but can be cycled deeply and recharged many times without damaging the battery.
This causes a voltage drop back at the VR which fools the VR into raising the output to an artifically high level (which then boils the battery).



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