Car battery voltage resting quotes,battery repair on iphone 5 64gb,refurbish optima battery quebec,battery life percentage iphone 5 32gb - Good Point

When is the voltage dropping and why is it "low?" A fully charged car battery will rest at 12.6V. Here's a chart of resting battery voltages (again, this isn't when the battery is charging). Could you please explain how alternators work this days - I understand they do not have attached or built-in voltage regulator any more? My alternator is three wires - main + and two wires of smaller AWG (I guess 16 or 18) - what they are for? If motor's computer has a fried output for voltage regulation (if the computer controls the alternator), could a possible a solution be use of an old fashion external electronic regulator? I don't know that much about alternators, but specifically, I know the Neon's PCM has the voltage regulator in it. My uneducated guess is the voltage might be lower than optimal during charging because your battery is getting older and subsequently, not holding as much voltage as it did when new. At least I now have some better understanding that there is no reason for panic Will watch.
This car could just have a higher electrical drain, although I could have sworn 6 months ago when I got the car it was reading lower than it is now. I hope you guys know that 12 isn't the actually standard and if it is charge your batteries! New alternator did not help, this Canadian version does not have temperature sensor on battery.

I had a dead battery one time last winter and after that I put a voltmeter in cigarette lighter.
I believe as before one is activated together with ignition, is the other one for voltage regulation and in what range of voltage it regularly has? The connector has a DG wire (generator field control) that goes to the PCM the BLK wire is the ground wire. I noticed that voltage looks better when it is colder - was 13.6 to 14 today at temperature near 48F. Say you let your car sit too long because you were out of town and now the battery is too drained to start the car.
The shop owner who replaced the alternator also confirmed that the old one was good but he said I will have a better voltage with the new one. This would not scare me if I see this before although on my older car I always had 14.4 all year round. The only way to measure this accurrately is with a digital voltmeter AT the battery terminals.
It isn't totally dead and will let the radio or lights run but just not enough to start the car. I suspect that he actually does not know these things well because this did not happen as well as some other things he said before.
Just switching on your car will skew the numbers as you're throwing a bunch of power draws into the equation which will lower the V.

Same with myself - I could fix this things in old fashion cars but now when almost everything is controlled by ECMs I unfortunately do not know how things functioning.
Driving around for a few hours, let alone 20 minutes doesn't really charge it correctly nor fully.
A batteries ability to hold and accept this charge has nothing really to do with how much you're trying to stuff into it. A fully charged battery, that is well regulated will generally show an alternator supplied voltage of about 13.7 V depending on the voltage draw of the cars electrical systems. Voltages of higher than 14V into a fully charged battery may shorten the battery life if the amperage remains high, but it may also reflect the Running voltage needs of the car. A battery with a low charge will typically show 14V+ or so as the battery capacity is replenished by the alternator output.
A higher charge rate will show at the first start of the day as the battery recovers lost voltage from sitting and parasitic draws as well as needing to recover from a high load engine start. Batteries naturally age and over a period of time their ability to hold a charge and full voltage diminishes.

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