Car battery terminals which is positive feedback,067te exide car battery x-tra plus,car battery price bangalore quikr,buy car battery ireland - Step 2

24.04.2016
Disconnecting or replacing a battery on a computer-equipped vehicle may cause starting, driveability and a number of other problems, including loss of air conditioning, power accessory functions (door windows, seats, sunroof), false warning lights, even damage to certain electronic modules!
One of the things I wanted to do with the article was list all of the vehicle applications that have known battery disconnect issues. On vehicles with known battery disconnect issues, there should be a big red warning label on or near the battery to warn people.
Warning: Disconnecting the battery to reset the PCM on a growing number of late model (2003 and newer) vehicles can do more than erase the Keep Alive memory. Also Note: Disconnecting the battery will NOT allow a vehicle to pass an OBD II plug-in emissions test. Erasing the PCM's adaptive memory may also affect the way the transmission shifts and feels.
It resets the FMEM (Failure Mode Effects Management) module on certain late model Ford vehicles. It resets the ABS (Antilock Brake System) and SIR (Supplemental Inflation Restraint) or airbag modules.
Chevy Tahoe Loss of voltage to the vehicle electrical system causes the 4WD module to go to sleep permanently.
Toyota (various models) If the battery is disconnected while the key is on, it can set a fault code for the airbag system and turn on the airbag warning light (which deactivates the airbag system until the fault is cleared with a scan tool). Subaru (various models) Disconnecting the battery can trigger the anti-theft system, preventing the vehicle from starting when the battery is reconnected.
Honda (various models) Disconnecting the battery will set a code and turn on the air bag light (which also disables the airbag system). WARNING: Regardless of the year, make or model of vehicle NEVER disconnect the battery while the engine is running or the ignition key is on. If a battery has to be disconnected prior to doing electrical work on a vehicle (which is highly recommended to prevent an accidental short that might damage wiring or modules), or if an old or weak battery is being replaced, voltage MUST be maintained to the PCM and other modules while the battery is disconnected.
Voltage to the PCM and other modules can be provided by connecting a 12v backup power supply to the battery cables, using jumpers to attach another 12v battery to the battery cables, or plugging a small 9 volt battery Keep Alive Memory (KAM) saver into the cigarette lighter or a 12v power receptacle. The Schumacher OBD Memory Saver Cable is another handy device for preserving learned data, stored codes and programmed electronic settings such as clocks, radios, seat positions, keyless entry systems, alarms and more. The Keep Alive Memory chips in most modules require very little current to retain their settings, anywhere from a few milliamps up to 10 to 15 milliamps depending on the module. Many modules have internal timers that either turn off the module to put it into a "sleep mode," or power down the module to a "standby mode" to reduce the parasitic power drain after a predetermined length of time when the key is turned off or the vehicle's occupants leave the car.
As a rule, the parasitic drain on most late model vehicles should be less than 50 milliamps one hour after the vehicle has been shut off and left undisturbed. Keep in mind, though, that opening a door, the trunk or turning anything on can wake up various modules and start the timer countdown all over again. If replacing a battery (new or used), make sure the battery is FULLY CHARGED before installing it. Connect the POSITIVE (+) battery cable first (which may be color coded RED), then the NEGATIVE (-) GROUND cable last (which may be color coded BLACK).
You are using an outdated browser For a better experience using this site, please upgrade to a modern web browser. Car batteries are kind of mysterious in that they can really fail at any time especially as they get older. Please note that these are precautions that we take and anyone who is storing your car should take to ensure your battery is in the best possible shape upon de-store. Modern cars have lots of electronic systems that are always on regardless of whether the car is running or not. A trickle charger can be hooked up to your battery during storage.This system will simulate the load that a battery would experience during regular use of the car. However if your battery has removable caps on top you can and should remove them from time to time and check the water level.
It’s a good idea from time to time to clean the battery terminals and coat them with Vaseline or specialized protectant specifically for batteries.
Charge the battery If you leave your car with someone who specializes in vehicle storage, ask them to charge your battery before you pick your car up.


Brand new genuine Nissan Positive Battery Fusible Fuse Connector Cable Holder Link.Usually when aftermarket radio systems are installed there is a common electrical short circuit that occurs in the vehicles mentioned below. I just wanted to post a few pics of my revised wiring diagrams to make sure I am heading in the right direction. Based on an email exchange with BikeFixr, he mentioned an approach to grounding where I run all the grounds to a common point (to prevent ground loops).
He also mentioned another option that was similar to my original approach, but I came up with this before I know about the option above.
I dream about the day that the average would-be rapist is afraid to approach a woman who's walking alone at night. If I'm reading your diagram correctly, the green arrows are what you're using to represent as a path for ground, correct? Unless you're speaking of grounding the base of the dist to the common ground block, but I don't see the point in that. For validity, here's a chart from Crutchfield which also represents what gauge of wire should be used based on current and length of wire.
To be honest, I am just building this diagram as I go and leaning heavily on the kindness and insight of others so I can avoid a $700-$1000 install cost. I have a friend who had experience doing stereo installs when he was (much) younger, but the audio world has changed a lot and we sometimes - ahem - forget things over the years. It took me a little while to digest all this, but here is my next draft of how this should look.
As the day gets closer and I have the items actually purchased, I will update this and take pictures so people can see what it is that I am doing and where the stuff is going to actually go. The generic ground symbol will be the points of where you ground the devices to your grounding blocks. One thing I did forget to add in, is the remote lead you'll need to tell the amplifiers to turn on and off. It can also erase vital learned information that is absolutely necessary for other modules to function normally. Yes you can use them regularly, and yes you can maintain them, but really past about 3 years its really a guessing game for failure time.
HOWEVER, you can MINIMIZE the failure risk while storing your vehicle with a few precautions.
The cleaning will ensure that the maximum amount of energy is going to the car’s systems and not into thin air.
This entails hooking the positive and negative terminals up to a special fast charger and will bring your battery up to a full charge. Basically this approach is to use braided copper grounds and ground things to the body of the car, then ground the body to the frame. I use Visio a lot for really detailed architectural drawings, but over the years I have found that I can use Powerpoint to convey information a lot easier and I can make changes to it pretty quickly as well. The reason he recommended it it to keep enging noise or alternator whine out of the system. I dream of the day when two punks talk each other out of sticking up a liquor store because it's too damn risky.
The grounding blocks should be isolated, then the common ground wire run to your final ground point. The biggest problem I saw was the only attachment of the front chassis to the rear is the mounting bolts attaching the front subframe to the body, correct? Perhaps somewhere either on the firewall or perhaps (instead) from the front subframe to the body under the car.
I am assuming the Amplifiers are Grounded, but this appears to be a correct assumption so far. I added in the negative wires from Distribution Block #1 to the Head Unit, the front accessories (cig lighters, radar, etc), and to Distribution Block #2.
I added in the negative wires from Distribution Block #2 to the Amplifiers and the trunk Accessories. I am assuming the Farad Capacitor does not need to be grounded and hangs off the Positive cable from the Battery, between Battery and DistBlock#1.


Smaller devices that aren't going to be fed through the audio system can be grounded directly to the chassis. A lot of amplifiers have pre-outs to allow multiple amplifiers to run off the same signal output from the head unit.
The positive wire from the battery goes across the positive of the capacitor, then to the amplifier. I'm not trying to sound critical, but you're certainly determined to do this the correct way.
I was doing some research on those and found issues where they can explode and have other dangers. Im not trying to wake the neighbors with my radio or anything, but do want something that has a nice clear sound. I haven't looked at the cig lighters yet, but was planning to buy the ones that are used in my Dodge pickup because they have a plastic cap that can be inserted into the cig lighter when it isnt being used. Most of the time, this sort of draw is okay since most people use their cars every day and the alternator will re-charge the battery while the car is running. We at AAAA storage provide this service for a little extra since it draws electricity but are happy to accommodate our customers if they elect to do so. Auto makers use the metal chassis and body of the vehicle to act as a conductor for the 12V- to make it easier and not have to have separate ground wires running through the car. Alternator whine can be caused by many things, but the usual culprit is a voltage differential between two audio components. The grounding related portion is the biggest unknown for me, which is why I am trying to get out in front of this now, with the goal being to do the actual wiring in about 3-4 weeks. Other than the fender mounts at the cowl, that's the only connection from the rear of the car to the ground post on the battery? The negative of the capacitor gets grounded to the chassis (or dist block) just like a battery or electrical device would be hooked up.
You haven't really given any indication of how much wattage you're going to have, overall, but I've seen people run more than 2,000 watts RMS and not go through all of this planning.
I would prefer to keep things simple and since I am going with a 140 Amp Alternator and a high-end battery, I dont think I will have too much of an issue there. Since some things dont have them (like the Crossovers) there is no ground line being shown. Im assuming those will have a ground line (in addition to the positive and negative wires) but the radar detector, for example, may just have a single wire running to it. If a circuit doesn't have both 12V+ and ground, the circuit won't work (and hence, why whenever someone has an electrical issue, the first thing to check after fuses is the ground).
If the system is grounded to both the chassis and the frame rail, the only things left are the engine and the battery itself, which at that point is the Department of Redundancy Department. Then someone mentioned using a grounding block (similar to a distribution block) and connecting that (I think) to the body of the car.
They can help serve as a buffer from voltage spikes and dips, but that's about all they do. If you hook everything up and with the engine running and the stereo pounding you don't get any engine whine through the system, ignore the Question Mark connection.
If the current draw of the amplifiers you're using is less than 45 amperes, it'll be fine, but I'd recommend 4 gauge if you can make it work.
So that is where the idea originated for the diagram you are seeing - I was basically just following that as a model because I dont know anything different. Back in the days of Class A amps is where they would have been more effective, but they didn't really become mainstream until after Class AB amps were being used, which really don't need them.
So this monster system found a ground path from amp to head unit though the RCA plug wires, then to final ground through the antenna wire.



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