Car battery drain acid,android 4.3 vs 4.2.2 battery life,6 volt auto batteries for sale walmart,car battery replacement cost aaa - And More

09.06.2015
Via email, text message, or notification as you wait on our site.Ask follow up questions if you need to. First of all the oil pressure light on the dash shouldn't even have power with the key off, so check the PCM fuse #8. Tory Johnson, GMA Workplace Contributor, discusses work-from-home jobs, such as JustAnswer in which verified Experts answer people’s questions. You accidentally left the lights on or some other accessory that pulls power from the battery even when the ignition key is off.
There is a key off parasitic electrical drain on the battery because a relay is sticking, a module is not shutting down (going into "sleep mode"), or there is a shorted diode in the alternator.
The first things you want to check are the battery and the output of the charging system (alternator). After charging the battery or jump starting the car, connect the voltmeter to the battery the same as before and not the charging voltage.
After the battery has been recharged, the battery should also be tested to see if it is capable of holding a charge. The average service life of a wet cell lead-acid car battery is only about four to five years, and can be as little as three years in really hot climates (like Arizona and Florida). If your car battery is less than six years old and tests okay, and the charging system is working normally, your battery may be running down because of a key-off current drain (also called "parasitic battery drain"). When you turn the ignition off, switch the lights off and remove the key from the ignition switch (or the smart key fob from the vehicle), the electrical load on the battery should drop to almost nothing.
Many modules have internal timers that either turn off the module to put it into a "sleep mode," or power down the module to a "standby mode" to reduce the parasitic power drain on the battery after a predetermined length of time when the key is turned off. WARNING: When disconnecting or replacing a car battery on a late mode vehicle, you should always maintain voltage to the vehicle's electrical system to preserve learned module settings.
As a rule, the parasitic drain on most late model vehicles should be less than 50 milliamps one hour after the vehicle has been shut off and left undisturbed. Keep in mind, though, that opening a door, the trunk or turning anything on can wake up various modules and start the timer countdown all over again. Check for Voltage Drop: Use a digital volt meter to measure voltage drop across individual fuses with the key off.
Use an ammeter with an amp probe to measure key-off current flow at the battery: Connect an inductive amp probe to your ammeter or digital multimeter, then clamp the probe around one of the battery cables. Use an ammeter to measure key-off current flow at the battery: This method requires disconnecting one of the battery cables and connecting the ammeter in series between the battery and cable so any current flow will pass through the meter. Causes of excessive current drain from a car battery include things like lights that remain on (trunk and hood lights, interior lights, brake lights, etc.) and also relays that may be stuck on, or modules that are not going to sleep or powering down. A fuel pump relay that sticks on may keep the fuel pump running after the engine is shut off. An accessory such as a DVD player, game console or cell phone charger left plugged into a rear seat power receptacle may be pulling power from the battery. If the key-off current reading is above specifications (typically, more than 50 mA one hour after the vehicle has been shut off), the current drain is too high.
Once you've found the circuit that is causing the excessive current drain, check the relay, switch, module or other components in the circuit and replace as needed. BMW recalled 2004 to 2010 BMW 5 Series and 6 Series cars for a faulty battery-cable connection in the trunk.
So my plan is to connect a 1 ohm, 10 watt resistor between the battery negative lead and the terminal on the car body.


I should then be able to view the data on a PC and verify whether the car is waking up periodically. The ignition will remain switched off (the max current draw I have seen in this state is 6 amps). If you really do have 6A current events then obviously the wattage rating of the resistor will be exceeded. As mentioned, once-per-second recording might miss some events, but then again events of less than a second are unlikely to represent a great deal of battery drain.
Putting the resistor "between the battery negative lead and the terminal on the car body" might leave an alternate path if there's a cable running from the negative battery post directly to the starter motor for example. If you start drawing much current across that resistor, the big voltage drop could result in a problem with some of the electronics. 6A would result in a 6V drop across that resistor, bring total system voltage into the <6V range, which would start putting some electronics into brownout range.
From personal experience, I have seen relays start buzzing when their controller started seeing low voltage. For the same reason I'm going to need some better rated leads to connect the resistor to the battery terminal.
There will be other earth connections other than the main one that might be causing issues, but I'd first like to investigate need whether the car wakes up periodically, drawing what current, and why.
Sounds good, so long as you don't have one of those annoying car radios that require a password after it loses power. Anyway, the body computer, ECU computer normally go into a sleep mode to save battery draw when the vehicle is not in use.
If you have a vehicle with the newer keyless entry system (the key fob is sensed by radio, no button pressing required, (e.g. I didn't read all the above posts because I haven't time, but it reminds me of a story a friend told me.
The spark told him too open the boot (trunk if your in the usa), he then said to my friend, "get in". Nah, he would have wired up an Arduino with a light sensor and coded up a routine to send him the light sensor data through Bluetooth to his phone. Red Flag SubmittedThank you for helping keep Eng-Tips Forums free from inappropriate posts.The Eng-Tips staff will check this out and take appropriate action.
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The controversial Tesla Autopilot charged its first fatality Who will take responsibility now? It should only have power with key on, not with key off or out.For that wiring diagram, click here.
It is nice to know that this service is here for people like myself, who need answers fast and are not sure who to consult.


I liked that I could ask additional questions and get answered in a very short turn around. Not only did you answer my questions, you even took it a step further with replying with more pertinent information I needed to know. A bolt that connects the battery cables in the trunk may come loose, creating increased electric resistance and an overheated cable connection.
Go ahead and measure as you propose, but if you don't find any spikes, it may be just that you happened to miss them. As long as the events don't last more than about half a second you might get away with it, but it might be safer to put two of your resistors in parallel to be sure.
To ensure you get them all you might want to use hose clamps to clamp the resistor between all negative leads and the negative post. The battery doesn't get completely drained - it used to but I have since replaced the battery and fitted a 'Battery Brain' which isolates the battery if the voltage drops below 11.7V. The engine ECU on many vehicles comes up to full power mode when the driver door is opened in prep for starting the vehicle. Note various doors being opened and subsequent effect on body computer and ECU electrical draw (all dome lights switched off for these measurements).
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I know it decreases to about 80mA after 20 minutes, but I suspect the car wakes up periodically and consumes much more. Many vehicles these days have so-called "body computers" that perform the security function and in many, operate the power windows and other devices, e.g. I only have documentation on Toyotas with this feature, but to avoid running down the battery, their design will time out after 15 minutes of key fob in range of the vehicle and no vehicle entry or start. They seemed to have mercury switches in them on older cars and nowadays are tied to the BCM which is monitoring the status of the latch. In addition, there may be a burning or melting odor, smoke, and possibly a fire in the trunk.
The body computer is located on the back of a fuse panel that also contains the relays the body computer operates.
Then disconnect the negative battery terminal and hook the 12-volt test or voltmeter with the positive test lead on the disconnected negative battery cable and negative test lead on negative battery post. A light on the 12-volt test light or voltage reading on the voltmeter indicates that something is draining the battery.
If so start by unhooking the small wires at the alternator and see if the test light goes out or dimmer or if the voltmeter drops in voltage, hopefully to zero. If the 12-volt test light goes out or the voltmeter now reads zero or less than 0.2 volts then you have found the short. If the voltage is not zero on voltmeter or test light does not go out, the short is somewhere else.



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Comments Car battery drain acid

  1. 125
    Sealed Lead Acid batteries that we carry are stop.
  2. Nikotini
    Insides of each terminal with that the smart charger.