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2015 Ford Mustang 1 wire alternator If you look in Mustangs Plus or Jegs, you will see they offer a one wire Alternator. The following errors occurred with your submission Okay Message: Options Quote message in reply? In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Mustang Forum forums, you must first register.
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Failure to provide a VALID email address, will result in the cancellation of your new AFM member account registration. These alternators are commonly found on small cars like the suzuki swift, Diahatsu Charade, and some 'industrial' equipment like the micro diggers and some site generators. Just to confirm, the ignition light setup is the same as the mini, its through a switched live? Be able to get mine on now!! Also what belt is required?
The belts are always part-numbered by length so the easiest way to do things like this is to mount the alt up, and then cut up an old (longer) belt to suit and then measure the length of it in mm, then go down you local factors and look in their catalogue for available lengths.
On 15th Nov, 2004 TurboDave said: Wiring the alternators in is easy - just follow this link!

Yes it is confusing (see my other post) as mini's had both wires to the alterantor from the same source, ie from the same terminal on the solenoid. I have had mine on for some time, rather than having it close to the engine and using a smaller fan belt, i am using my original belt.
When the engine is running and the alt is charging, there is a voltage from the N terminal that activates the V relay. The V Regulator in your diagram it's in fact inside the V Regulator box ( external regulator in my setup ) ? With or without VR just got full battery V in all ignition switched ports at the VR plug ..
I haven't done it, but need to, I just went thru hell with somebodies wiring mods, after seeing whats involed in a one wire alternator I'd do it in a heart beat.
Thats how I have mine. EDIT: My matiz alternator only needed the charge light signal and not the extra 12V switched live to get it running though!
It may not display this or other websites correctly.You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. The V relays goes to the down position and now the lamp is between + from the key and + from the battery. One wire alternator, one wire from the alternator to the positive side if the the starer soleniod.

You don't have to cut your wire harness & you don't have to remove the voltage regulator.
When the alt is not charging for one or some reason (there is no current flow) there is no voltage at the N terminal so the V relay goes off (to ground) and the lamp comes on.
If your more into the classic look, you can just disconnect the external regulator and tape up the wires. If yours has the multi-Vee, you can buy new (single) vee pulleys from Demon Tweeks - for around ?20 i recall - so it's worth looking for the right pulley type! You need to remove all the air filter assy, throttle cables, brake servo (just loosen the unions, and undo the master cyl from the servo (these are 12mm aswell!) and plastic cover around the alternator. If the two bolt type, the bolts are captive, and once the nut is undone, the bolt can be slid out. Single type is usually one long bolt and plain nut - again 12mm heads Then undo the top bolts, and lift it out!
The industrial ones are approx 80mm dia - and not suitable for a road car, although probably fine in a racer!

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