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04.01.2015
To save your eyes, please always wear safety glasses (or glasses) in the event of a car or deep cycle battery explosion and have adequate lighting and ventilation. In cold weather, good quality jumper cables (or booster cables) with at least eight-gauge wire is necessary to provide enough current to the disabled vehicle to start the engine. In the event that the jumper (or jump starter) cables were REVERSED and there is no power to all or part of the vehicle, test the fusible links, fuses, circuit breakers, battery, charging system and emissions computer and, if bad, reset or replace. It prevents the battery from receiving a charge due to a high resistance connection, which eventually causes the battery to be drained. Before jump starting, please read the vehicles owner's manuals for specific instructions, tighten battery vent cover caps, wear eye protection, and keep sparks, lit cigarettes or flames away from the batteries. If the temperature has dropped below 20 degrees F (-6.7 degrees C), insure that the electrolyte is NOT frozen in the dead battery. Without the vehicles touching, turn off all electrical accessories, heaters and lights on both vehicles, especially electronic appliances, such as a radio or audio system.
Start the vehicle with the donor battery and let it run for at least two or three minutes at medium RPM to recharge it.
Connect the POSITIVE booster cable (or jump starter) clamp (usually RED) to the POSITIVE (+) terminal post on the dead battery [Step 1 in the diagram above]. Connect the NEGATIVE booster cable clamp (usually BLACK) to the NEGATIVE (-) terminal on the donor battery [Step 3]. If using jumper cables, let the good vehicle continue to run at medium RPM for at least five minutes to allow the dead battery to receive some charge and warm its electrolyte. If using jumper cables, some vehicle manufacturers recommend that you turn off the engine of the donor vehicle to protect its charging system prior to starting the disabled vehicle; otherwise, leave the engine running so you can avoid becoming stranded should you not be able to restart the donor vehicle to increase the voltage and current to the disabled vehicle's starter motor. Once the engine starts, disconnect the jumper (or jump starter) cables in the REVERSE order, starting with the NEGATIVE clamp on the engine block or frame of the disabled vehicle to minimize the possibility of an explosion. To prevent a reoccurrence, as soon as possible and at room temperature, fully recharge the dead battery with an external "smart" or "automatic" battery charger matched to the battery type, remove the surface charge and load test the battery and charging system. If the battery terminals are corroded, please clean them (if possible) before attempting to jump starting the engine.


Please check the owner's manuals for BOTH vehicles or jump starter BEFORE attempting to jump-start.
If frozen, do NOT jump or boost the battery if the case is cracked or until the battery has been full thawed out, recharged, tested.
Check the POSITIVE (+) and NEGATIVE (-) terminal markings on both batteries before proceeding. Connect the POSITIVE clamp on the other end of the booster cable to the POSITIVE (+) terminal post on the donor (good) starting battery [Step 2]. Connect the NEGATIVE booster cable (or jump starter) clamp on the other end of the jumper cable to a clean, unpainted area on the engine block or frame on the disabled vehicle [Step 4] and at least 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm) away from the battery.
If there is a bad cable connection, do not wiggle the cable clamps connected to the battery terminals because sparks will occur and a battery explosion might occur. Please allow the engine on the disabled car to run until the engine come to full operating temperature before driving and continue to run until you reach your final destination, because stopping the engine might require another jump start.
If replacing the faulty parts do not repair the electrical system, having it repaired by a good auto electric repair shop is highly recommended. Please follow the manufacturers' procedures, for example, some vehicles should not be running during a jump-start of a disabled one. When electrolyte freezes, it expands and damage the plates or plate separators, which can cause the plates to warp and short out or the case to crack.
If the POSITIVE (+) battery terminal post is not accessible, the POSITIVE connection on the starter motor solenoid from the POSITIVE (+) terminal post of the battery could be used. This arrangement is used because some sparking will occur and you want to keep sparks as far away from the battery as practical to prevent a battery explosion. To check connections, first disconnect the NEGATIVE clamp from the engine block or frame on the disabled vehicle, check the other connections, and then reconnect the engine block or frame connection last. Do not turn the starter motor more than 30 seconds at a time without waiting a few minutes to allow the starter motor to cool,.
Also, keep all unnecessary electrical accessories off to relieve the load on the charging system and allow it to add charge to the battery.


This is to determine if any latent or permanent damage has occurred as a result of the deep discharge and to avoid from becoming stranded.
These procedures are ONLY for vehicles are that are both negatively grounded and the electrical system voltages are the SAME. However, starting the disabled vehicle with the donor vehicle running can prevent having both vehicles disabled and provides a higher voltage to the starting motor of the disabled vehicle. When the battery is frozen, the best solution is to temporarily substitute a fully charged battery for frozen one or tow the vehicle to a heated garage.
Avoid the booster cable clamps touching each other or the POSITIVE clamp touching anything but the POSITIVE (+) post of the battery, because momentarily touching the block or frame can short the battery and cause extensive and costly damage or an explosion. Please follow the jump stater manufacturer's recommendations or recharge every three months.
The freezing point of a battery is determined by the State of Charge and the higher it is, the lower the freezing temperature. NEVER jump a frozen battery and ALWAYS connect POSITIVE to POSITIVE and NEGATIVE (-) to the ENGINE BLOCK or FRAME away from the dead starting battery. If the battery has been sitting for several months and frozen, then the battery has probably sulfated as well.
The American Automobile Association (AAA) estimates that of the 275 million vehicles that will traveling in the U.S.
If the battery has been sitting for several hours and frozen, then the problem is either an excessive parasitic load like leaving the headlights on or a faulty charging system.



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