Battery desulfator video youtube,blu life play batteries,exide car battery specifications india,6v deep cycle battery box - PDF 2016

17.03.2014
In the middle of building a battery charger from a computer power supply, I discovered numerous articles on battery desulfation and desulfators. In the plot above the V(vbat) voltage is the battery voltage plus the voltage across the capacitor C1. Current through the battery, I(L5) = I(V1), is the inductor flyback current plus the current from the diode-bridge charging C1.
Since I wanted to try a desufonator, and wanted to have it supply a small charging current, and the CIP circuit seemed to do this with one less inductor than the standard desulfator circuit, I decided to model it in more detail (eventually,as I was currently working on building a bathroom, playing with LED flashlights, and working on two old cars).
In the initial plot above, I had a transformer primary resistance of 5000 ohms that severely limited the output current capability. Now the circuit does looked more like the standard desufator circuit with a low-current charger attached. The problem with the second plot is that it shows only 9 ms detween 27 and 36 ms after starting, it is not a stable circuit yet. The measurement circuit gets a reference voltage from the 555 timer for 5 seconds and compares it with the voltage across the battery. Q6 is a level shifter circuit that converts the battery voltage referened to the +voltage supply rail, into an equivalent voltage referenced to ground. This is yet another attempt in trying to improve the health of our solar battery bank, which is not very good but what can you expect using old and recycled batteries. Still I have seen some excellent results like John Bedini's School Girl circuit, but for this system to work correctly you must have a rather large bank of nice new batteries which is something we don't have at the moment. I built a few prototypes as a project in wet cell lead acid battery preventive maintenance and rejuvenation for renewable energy systems and was curious as to how well they worked. To build your own from Frontier Spring's interpreted schematic and PCB these are some of the parts and their specs that are used. Notes on Inductors: Delevan Inductors have been an original part choice for the classic "AC" Desulfator.
For a lead acid (wet cell) battery they do remarkably well - Knocking off sulfate crystals from the battery plates. Please read Alastair Couper's original article in PDF format from Home Power magazine issue HP77. Battery desulfators are perfect for golf cart and motorcycle batteries to help maintain and extend the life. Mikey Sklar, who lives off the grid with Wendy Tremayne, bought a battery desulfator kit to bring his dead electric vehicle batteries back to life. Remember Cody Wilson, the founder of Defense Distributed who caused chaos last year with his design for a 3D printed gun, The Liberator?
YouTuber thepoultrypeople creates very crafty items like vape pen holders, with the added twist of burning Lichtenberg figures into them with electricity, then pouring in glow-in the dark pigments.
If you’ve got a coding career on your mind, few programming disciplines will take you farther than a commanding knowledge of the Python language.
Folks used to rely on alarms to protect their home – and before that, the family dog.
Sad really, knowing that even if these desperate non technical people got the thing to work, it still would do nothing. I don’t see why one would need a kit for this, I think I can see all the parts in the picture on the website.
One of the typical failure modes for lead-acid batteries is when the active material literally flakes off of the electrode surface.
Beleive me, if there was a way for people to affordably increase the life of their batteries someone would be marketing a product for it, and even if consumers didn’t buy it, stores that sell batteries would be using them to resurrect batteries to sell them as used, since the margins on new batteries have decreased significantly with the rising price of lead. I had to design one of these for a project in my Power Electronics paper at Manukau Institute of Technology. It is probably far better to maintain a battery in a healthy state by proper charging, including boost charging to equalise the cells, not over discharging the battery and not leaving it in a discharged state. At any rate, the circuits commonly used in these projects are simple and cheap enough to build.
The basic Silicon Chip kit from 2005 with parts and etched and drilled PCB is available locally for NZ\$47.90.
Battery Sulfation is the end result of undercharging, deep cycling or allowing lead-acid batteries to sit completely discharged. They last the longest when operated under float-charge conditions and shortest when deep-cycled. I have end of year exams and reports due so I haven’t yet made time to properly test my de-sulphator under controlled conditions over a period of weeks as would be needed to properly de-sulphate a battery. When a lead-acid battery discarges, lead sulphate and water are produced from the porous lead oxide battery plates and sulphuric acid electrolyte. After more than a month at level two the sulphate ions form level three bonds with the lead and willnot conduct DC therefore no amount of recharging will break these bonds.
These bonds occur normally and form progressively larger and more insoluble crystals of lead sulphate, soover a period of time the capacity of a battery may reduce.
The assertion is that the crystals formed by level three bonds act as a dielectric and form a capacitive connection between the plate and electrolyte. Like SEB says, this only works for one of more than a dozen lead-acid battery failure modes?
I have the 1 amp one charging & desulfating 2-3 batteries on my seldom used cars at the same time (wire them in parallel). I’m planning on getting the bigger 8 amp unit soon, although it costs as much as a new battery. I have used Tetra Sodium EDTA and charged the *(&#\$ out of heavily sulfated flooded lead acid batteries. I live offgrid and have seen dozens of people here, as well as in the Dominican Republic, save their battery banks with EDTA. I normally use about 2 tables spoons per cell of a golf-cart sized battery, added first to distilled water and mixed (shaking works best) until it is completely dissolved. 555 is perfectly fine for this, though 2 are best, so you don’t need to worry about turning it off. Newer battery supplements such as Batteryvitamin have been shown to radically prolong the lives of lead-acid batteries by preventing certain separator growths and plate disintegration to begin with, but once a battery has already been run into the ground then unfortunately there realistically is not much that can be done to regain lost capacity and performance.
Wow… you guys who are dissing battery desulphation… do you believe the moon landings were faked too? People posting *actual experimentation* say EDTA and electronic desulfation will work on flooded lead-acid batteries that are sulfated, but it won’t magically restore batteries suffering from other kinds of problems. This thread had me worried at first (with all the negativity), but I’m glad someone came with a journal article to clarify things.

I bought a pulse device from a company where the engineering guy said right up front he didn’t know if it would work given the condition of the batteries.
AboutElectronic circuits diagrams,schematics,hobby project, diy projects,electronic projects, How circuits Work, Custom Electronics design, tutorials homepage,pcb designing softwares for hobbyists,students and technicians. Step 1: Circuit Schematic and Parts ListHere is the schematic and parts list, along with some of my pencil notes. Step 4: Smoke Test 1 - pots instead of fixed resistors for R2 and R4It's time to test your handiwork!
Step 7: How well does it work?At this writing my circuit has only been in operation three days on a 95AH sealed car battery that a friend gave me almost two years ago.
Step 8: Update:It's been over a month now and I'm happy to report that my desulfator circuit is working well!
After a year or so of reading and drooling over other people's wonderful projects in these pages I decided to finally make one of my own. My urge to build this project came when my wife's car refused to turn over after a three day weekend away. With a desulfator circuit you can reverse this process and rejuvenate the battery to like new condition. Once properly adjusted, the desulfator can be left on permanently whenever the charger is charging. The Altoids can is the perfect box for this project as the circuit neatly fits inside it and the metal construction can shield much of the RFI that may be emitted by the output stage.
I began modeling one of the circuits and playing around with the various ideas put forth in the desulfation forums.
I don't yet know if anything can be obtained from battery measurements at the planned time, as the battery voltage will likely just be the charger surface charge. It is a Everstart, from Walmart I think, and was fairly new when left to die in an unused Mustang for a year. Designed to efficiently utilize a standard 4 inch x 6 inch single sided copper clad pc board.
A desulfator and either a trickle charger or 2 amp solar panel has been on this battery for a few weeks.
When that large magnetic field collapses, it generates the large voltage pressure toward the battery.
Now, Wilson and engineer John Sullivan have developed a \$1500 desktop CNC mill, called the Ghost Gunner, that cranks out the key component in assault rifles.
Getting loads of people buying parts carrying some New-Age book that was going to cure their deadly disease.
If you want to extend your battery life, buy a battery battery controller, one that won’t run the batteries too hard or charge them too quickly. The only way to recover a battery failed in such a manner is to melt it down and re-cast it into a new battery. Can anyone here post a link to a properly conducted (get it?) controlled and peer-reviewed trial? They operate by converting lead peroxide and sponge lead to lead sulfate as they discharge. About the only thing I can tell you to do to increase their life in an electric vehicle is to stop discharging when the panel indicators says they’re flat, not when the vehicle stops moving.
Don’t believe it myself, but you can definately see LOTS of room for improvement on the designs.
Here is my first instructable, a version of the ever popular Battery Desulfator, which I built in an Altoids tin. Here in Tokyo, during winter, the temperature can drop to the low 20's (F) at night and since we have no garage, her car just has to endure the cold as best it can. You can also save money and prevent water and ground pollution at the same time by keeping your old battery out of the local landfill. Many versions were spawned by his design but they all accomplish the same thing, that is, they use various pulsing circuits to force the lead sulphate crystals back into the electrolyte thus rejuvenating the battery and restoring its lost capacity.
I chose the third option for my circuit but added a switch so I can use either device independently. The list is complete except for some parts (two pots, two resistors, two switches, a LED, a FET and some grommets and pop-rivets) that I salvaged out of my junk box.
This page is a collection of simulations and commentary possibly leading up to a hardware project. I will probably leave the measurement components off the circuit board until I can make some actual oscilloscope measurements. At -20 degrees, on a trip, with no voltmeter, you don't do much troubleshooting, so I just replaced the battery. Although the battery is charged to full voltage, I have not done a energy capacity test to verify it's current amp-hour capacity. We design, print, drill, etch, assemble, and test the pcb board in house using standard "Laser Printer PCB Making" techniques. I know this is subjective but the last couple times I mowed, the battery felt slightly stronger at the end. You can find information and a great discussion forum on building your own here: Lead Acid Battery Desulfation Pulse Generator. Anderson has written more than 125 books, including 52 national or international bestsellers. Start charging immediately after use to bring the batteries up to float charge, never let them sit for any period of time in a discharged state (less than 2.1v per cell). It also can cause material to flake off the plates, potientially shorting a cell which then ruins the battery.
Currently I think you’d be better off getting a new one and resist the urge to try this thing.
As long as nothing is seriously wrong with the battery it can last many times the two or three years that people typically use them. The version I chose uses an NE555P timer chip for the multivibrator front end and two coils, a low ESR cap, a fast diode, and an N-channel MOSFET (hereafter referred to as a FET) to generate the high voltage (50V) spikes in the output. Mounting the device onto my charger also allowed me to use the charger's output cables for both functions and avoid the tangle of wires that inevitably results at the battery. These battery banks can be desulfated en-masse while being charged by their solar arrays for a truly self-maintaining system minus the periodic checks for electrolyte level, as long as the desulfator circuit is scaled up in size sufficiently.
I would like to be able to drop the charger offline, or go to a maintenance charge, using the measurement circuit. The mower's battery was in very good condition to start with anyway (tho it is a 4 year old battery now).

I've owned a couple motorcycles and keeping the battery maintained in excellent condition is a skill we should all have. Over time, the lead sufate converts to a more crystalline state that isn’t affected by charging (white instead of brown).
Your old battery may just have built up a layer of lead sulphate crystals on its plates and that is preventing the acid from contacting them over their full surface area.
You can even get free batteries from garages that routinely throw them away, desulfate them, and never buy another battery again. Credit goes to Ron Ingraham for changing the design to use an N-channel FET instead of the harder to find and more expensive P-channel types in the earlier versions. For those with battery banks of individual 6 volt batteries, there is really no need economically to attach a desulfator to each battery. The pcb board we offer is perfectly suited to AC's classic design using original component values or other values for experimentation and final build.
Use this battery desulfator on all your 12volt batteries and it will pay for itself by at least extending the life of all those vehicle batteries. This is caused by subjecting the battery to long periods of insufficient charge, as in the cases of unplugged golf carts over the winter, infrequently used automobiles, and PV systems that don't get enough sunlight to charge their batteries.
Save money and help the environment - now there's a green ecology scheme I can get into! Along the way I couldn't resist adding a few tricks of my own to make the design more convenient. If you choose to use trim pots instead of resistors for R2 and R4, as I did, be careful with the adjustments as C4, D2, L1 and L2 can get very hot if the 555 chip is made to send too wide a pulse into the output stage. Connect a desulfator to one battery, then after a week or so connect it to the next battery in line, migrating the desulfator throughout your battery bank.
I go over the pcb where I drilled and using a permanent marker dab around to cover copper that does not need to be etched off around the drilled holes. I have one working on a 12volt 7amp-hour UPS battery that is not helping the battery so much. He is a research director at Institute for the Future and editor-in-chief of Cool Tools and co-founder of Wink Books. The resistor values in the schematic should program the 555 chip to output pulses of the proper width and limit any excess heat buildup, however. For example: A golf cart with a 36 volt battery bank has, most likely, 6, 6 volt batteries.
Buying 6 desulfators, one for each battery, is really not needed in a long term desulfating process. There is a lot of internet anecdotes that these small UPS batteries don't respond to well because of the nature of their environment in the UPS. The 60.3 volt "peak voltage" is measured across the capacitor of the "peak voltage" measurement test point of the circuit and is solely generated by the desulfator. The LED can be any standard type and will only turn on when pulses are present in the output. Granted a desulfator at each battery is the optimum, economically it's not absolutely necessary. That is what is hitting the plates of the battery of only a few microsecond duration and 1250 times per second - As this voltage decreases it is an indicator of lowering sulfation of the battery. S1 should have at least a 3A rating, and if you use a DPDT type use both sets of contacts in parallel to reduce the contact resistance as much as possible. After a couple months on the desulfator and charger this UPS battery is showing some signs of life. Some of my better batteries show 30 volt peaks and very good batteries are showing 15-20 volt peaks.
They fit the can nicely but will need to have one lead extended slightly to reach the bottom of the circuit board.
DO NOT connect the desulfator to the battery while you are doing any kind of over volt experiments in rejuvenating batteries.
In retrospect, an inductor with a slightly higher current rating for L2 might be better as the one I chose gets noticably hotter than L1 even though it has the same current rating of 2.4A. Typical max charging voltage is 14.4 volts to the battery which the desulfator is fine with.
If it gets too hot you can use two in parallel to double the current capacity, but again, if you keep the pulse width on the conservative side it will only get slightly warm.
I mounted mine directly on the perf-board with a piece of stick-on copper foil (available from Digikey) under it to act as a heatsink.
In this configuration it doesn't get warm at all so the copper foil may not actually be needed. Be aware that the metal tab on the FET is also attached to pin 2 (drain) so if you attach the FET to a heatsink you'll have to electrically isolate it from the rest of the circuit. I also used a TO-220 transistor socket to allow easy replacements but you can wire the FET in directly if you prefer. The catch at the end where I have to buy something is the final insult so I just turn them off. Soldered it up, it gets very hot, put a bigger fuse in, it is drawing about 3.5 amps, so I thought maybe the FET was staying on- oh and no hum from the coils. So now I am stumped, I am not sure if the circuit is working ruffly ok, but I should put a in a pot as discussed and try tweaking the 555, or if I should replace the FET.
Anyone else had high current draw issues?Jumping in late here but I sure could use an updated set of part numbers for the coils, FET, low ESR cap, and the FRED diode. I say this because other videos on youtube have had voltage output of inexcess of 46V(is this correct for this circuit also).
Capacitor C4 (100UF Electrolytic LOWESR) did explode so replaced with a new 1000uF Electrlytic LOWESR type this is now cold. As explained in the instructible, any old diode from your junk-box won't do in this case. After going through the parts list, I've sourced all the components except for the coils. I found these two coils that seem big enough to carry enough current, but the values are not quite like they are in the schematic.