Battery desulfator really work videos,used car batteries tyler tx 2014,costco battery mini cooper,new battery car still wont start quest - Test Out

06.07.2015
A desulfator is basically just a high voltage pulse generator, when the battery receives a sudden jolt of high voltage electricity it actually knocks of some of the sulfate that has formed on your battery's lead plates and dissolves back into the electrolyte. I've built a few solid state prototypes like this one but never got any impressive results excluding my SG build, but I will give this one a go as soon as I receive the missing parts.
Hitman says:October 11, 2012 at 12:32After building the circuit I noticed something was wrong with the P chanel mosfet! The diodes are still getting hot with L2 getting quite warm, the mosfet is still staying cool though. One thing I am finding is that every battery has a different voltage value and the pulser responds differently to each battery. I just checked the polarity of the diodes, they are correct, unless they are printed wrong. Right now I am desulfating a battery for my son, so he can work on a science project, it is an AGM 7.2ah battery, and the diodes aren't even getting warm. Ok I have more information by means of observation today that may give added insight into what is going on. We really won't know the full story until my new meter gets here and we find if my old meter has relatively accurate measurements. Yes I have replaced the diode, if you look back a few posts I posted the diode I have in the circuit right now a Schottky, VHE1404 is the model.
Terry  The desulfators store up very low energy over a long period of time and release it as a very big pulse in 50 to 100 nanoseconds. I have gone over the circuit a thousand times, and can't find anything wrong all values and wiring are the way it says on this schematic.
I am starting to think something is not right in the 555 section with the output i am getting from it.
No matter what I do to try to reduce heat it seems to increase it, like replacing the diode and mosfet I mention in the previous post.
I have more diodes on the way that have higher voltage ratings I think they will do better. I am getting 50v of pulse voltage, but I am getting some sort of ringing at the peak and start of the pulse, and I was getting an intermittent problem that I tracked down to a short in L1, and I fixed it. Anyone have a PCB layout for this schematic I am thinking I might as well just make a PCB as they have far fewer problems than these breadboards when it comes to connects.


I do the photo paper lazer transfer method, just print it out on my printer and iron it onto the PCB, then etch it. I'll post the screen shots tomorrow, but I did discover one very beneficial thing while it was working.
I think my problem is with the enhancement part of the circuit, but when I checked the signal at pin 3 of the chip I wasn't even getting a square pulse there.
After fiddling a bit I have a pulse but it has a small bounce after the main pulse, it is about 20v bounce.
The battery it is on is desulfating, because of my lack of experience it is hard to say if it is making stellar progress or below average or not, but it is desulfating as it is load testing better and better. On your pulser above what did you use for L1, and do recommend that core over a ferrite toroid? The interesting thing is that I was driving the mosfet fine until I changed out L2 for a higher current ferrite core inductor. I think part of my problem is that I don't know the exact inductance because it is only calculated roughly not measured. I have done just as you have mentioned above, I have been messing around with pulse width on both the mosfet gate and at the mosfet's source.
I am gonna reduce the pulse width down and see if this circuit start performing better, that is an easy option to try. Chaz, we bought two from Pulsetech around five years ago and they have been working steadily ever since. If this process is applied over a long peroid of time it can rejuvenate your sulfated dead batteries, although it does not work with all batteries it does work best on wet cell lead-acid batteries. Terry, I am sure you have already this but, look for errors in your circuit, check D1'a polarity. I think what isn't making sense will be explained by my meter, I don't think it is measuring correctly.
If your 555 timer is connected to these points it could do unexplained things at different times. If they are they are most likely the Micrometals -26 material and are not ment to be used in this application. I knew at the time I should have bought the fully assembled version, but I'm just too cheap.


On the three batteries I am trying to save, I have tried charging them for days on end with no obvious improvement in their duration, but I've only done this with a small trickle charger - just 2 amps I think.
The remainder was made to make the seller money, as far as I am concerned.Most of the desulfators that I have seen do not provide the power to keep them and the batteries up.
Your small charger might work.I would suggest a voltmeter reading once in a while to find out if it is doing the job. In the same directory as above is another thread about inductors for kick back desulfators. The two really bad batteries seem to be constantly boiling slightly even at this low current - this seems very strange, and I'm not sure what it means. For our good desulfators, I use a small maintenance charger such as a one amp for and 8D battery while desulfating the battery. If the battery gets up to a little over 13 volts, you will probably do alright.For comparison, there are 15 watt solar panels sold for the same purpose. I figure on three weeks for this setup.If you connect a digital voltmeter to the battery and check it every few days, you will see the battery voltage gradually rise. Jerry told me one time that building one was easy enough but I'm not in any shape to do that right now. You will have no trouble hearing it.The self switching feature that turns on only when charging works very well with a rarely used vehicle.
The circuit paths highlighted when Q1 is on and when Q1 turns off are the high current paths that should be "beefy" in term of wire size. As far as I'm concerned pulsers and ETDA are just a lot of snake oil.Want to know a LOT about your batteries?? All of the 555 circuitry should be kept away from the high current paths.This is just a WAG (Wild A** Guess).



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