Battery bank desulfator battery,dual battery kit discovery 3,car battery charger for sale on ebay items - Good Point

Hatamata  Yes, if you know the pulse current and can measure the voltage difference between pulse "off" and pulse "on" then you can easily calculate internal resistance of the battery.
Can someone evaluate this please, I have a voltage regulator that has 110volts and 5amp fuse (so I supposed it can deliver 5amp max to the cap bank but it may not be relevant at all). Thank you mark for all your encouragement and support, you are of a great help.I have to reconnect the scope to see the exact pulse width i"m using, but this will take some time as I took the desulfator and placed it away from the pc. I think it would be a good idea to explain why a transformerless design is bad for your health. Hi Mark, sorry to confused you, the voltage regulator has a transformer, and with some circuitry, they make it a regulator. Elexcis, As you know, a short means the two sides of an electric circuit (- and +) touches each other directly with no resistance between. I have prototyped the above design can switch from tens of amps to as high as 200 amps (so far)with changing one jumper wire. I think that I should point out that this first prototype is to prove out the direct drive concept.
You may find that a larger cap or group of caps could run warmer than your group, and as you say - smaller is usually cheaper.
If I read this correctly, you are using N type MosFets, which are easier to come by, and slightly more robust. I like the variable control of the 555 , so would like to borrow that bit of the design for my little unit.
Safety - The highest voltage on the board other than the primary of the transformer is <40 volts. While cruising Ebay this evening, I found there are rather a lot of CPU coolers - very advanced cooling with fan for about ?1 each.
I'm going to mount an alloy wirewound resistor onto it and it can blow out the heat as a sort of fan heater.
I would also recommend fitting a permanent voltmeter to your supply as I am constantly getting the DMM out ! Maybe a push to test switch would be good to switch out the charger and switch in the meter with a little relay ? Tucsonshooter, I've been using the 'standard' high power desulfator for awhile with some sucess. My battery was down to about 11.5V (from self discharge after sitting for some time) when I started the desulfator last night. View DetailsBatteries often fail because a€?sulfatesa€? slowly develop and cover the battery plates.
FETs and the output diode [I am using two dual common cathode diodes which give me 4 parallel diodes] run cool. My question here is: has anyone tried the use of a center tapped transformer secondary circuit such as used on most of the cheaper regular battery charges?
I needed more power since I am working on 1000+AH at a time so I am dealing with even worse snubbing issues than when using the smaller transformer. I am also using cables from an old battery charger but I have not seen the problem of waveform changing over the 4 foot distance. You just want to keep the primary flyback pulse from exceeding the MosFet voltage ratings by trimming the peak voltage down a tad.
Yes, if I put the scope probe on the positive of the battery bank I see as much negative swing as positive. Yeah, the IGBTs are rugged but do tend to run hot because their switching characteristics are those of a bipolar transistor. Could it be that the MosFet isn't being driven sufficiently so that it is able to switch without overheating?
Have you scoped the gate drive pulses to verify that the signal is rising very rapidly to at least 10 Volts, then falling very rapidly to 0 Volts? It's been a while since I looked at the waveform from the desulfator so I had to check it again to refresh my memory.
In order to re-allocate that excess flyback energy in the primary I'd increase the number of turns in the secondary winding.
It is important to control the pulse width of the MosFet pulse to avoid saturating the transformer primary. Regards as to why your big resistors are getting hot - Have you considered that they are wirewound resistors? Try checking the waveform before and after any suspects and see if they are acting like chokes. On a good note, I'm using wirewound resistors to protect the timing side of things, and considering ferrite beads too.
The BLS will work on any type of lead-acid battery, including: VRLA (Gel Cell and AGM) and Flooded batteries. Easy Do it Yourself Instructions, if you can connect jumper cables you can connect the BLS!

You could probally use only one if you wanted to save 15 cents.I left the old 555 values on the schematic.
You can replace the 2N2907 (plus R14,R15)with the inverting version (MCP1406, available from digi-key for $1.06, DIP package). I have a car battery (45AH) which doesn't retain a charge above 12.35 volts when I taken it off from an old van. One thing I noticed is that those battery that has lesser cell are the one which has good result, but for those battery that has compact cell (that means the more expensive one, that has more cell pack closely together) doesn't show any improvement or worst has develop bad cell. So if you are connecting to 110 Volts inside of a PC type power supply that means that you are connecting to the "line" 110V. This voltage is not "isolated" and is very very bad and very VERY DANGEROUS!!!!
In case of a battery, each cell is composed of several plates that will perform the + part of the cell and several plates that will perform the - side of the cell. This is why I have limiting resistors between the rectifier and the cap bank to reduce the pulse current. At the moment the trimmer pot and push switch are on the board, but will be on the outside of the load box soon, and I can calibrate the turn-off point more accurately as a dial setting. The snubber has fried twice and I really don't want to rewind the xformer (not to mention the safety issues). Looking more closely at your scope trace I'm curious about the 2 microsecond negative pulse.
It is much more predictable than the old design and I don't have to fiddle around with a snubber.
Battery + to light blub - to transformer - to + capacitor and - of cap to - of the battery. I know I promised to post the 555 + 74AS00 circuit that I'm using with which you can go to pulse width of as short as 10 ns (for you to check), but will do as soon as I have it ready. Although, remember, you can not exceed the basic rise time of the Mosfet, which is about 50 nanosec. Give yourself credit for working out the problems and making it work.Your cap bank is "bleeping" fantastic. However, the low power pulser was able to revive it and was able to retain a 12.43 volts for few days.
I'm trying to be carefull with the 110 volts source and what I did was to open the casing of the regulator and put a bridge inside and 47uf 200v capacitor then re-screw the casing back to secure. One time I opened an old motorcycle battery and rip off one of the cell to experiment, I put the cell in an EDTA solution (EDTA + distilled water) and let it soaked for 24 hours. So if you were touching the scope at the same time you touched the negative side of the cap you would be shocked with around – 90 volts. This voltage regulator is not the one which is inside the computer, it's like the UPS unit but bare transformer and small circuit. Now these cells are places in a way that is a one - plate and then one + plate and then another one - plate and so on. If this works well on my batteries I'll definitely invest in some IRFB3307s to clean up the final version. I only have an old ac coupled scope that only sweeps up to 100kHz so my current pulse is hard to measure, but I can see that it is working. Patented Wave² Technology, the BLS helps solve the problem of sulfate build-up on the battery plates. Now turn the transformer on and the light blub turns on and the battery now is changing and discharge 50 or 60 Hz. That wall wart may be designed for something that is really 13 volts, and since the battery is so much lower, more current flows. This means with the MCP1406 driver your minimum pulse width (triangle shape) would be about 100 nanosec, (or maybe a little better). I also have another battery (45AH) that has a voltage of 12.40 but the low power pulser could not revive it. I have several capacitor from old power supply which I put in parallel, they are rated 2x400 volts and 2x350 volts.
The good sign is to see that all cells are bubbling almost equally, and I'm not talking about bubbling like in boiling because this might mean excess heat and water will evaporate and will also loose much of electrolyte due to hydrogen and oxygen coming out.
The sulfate was really separating from the cell and some of it fell down the bottom of the jar, but I also noticed that the plate has also become thinner as compared to the un-soaked part of the cell.
With the other ohmmeter lead "probe" around the power cord contacts (unplugged from the wall of course.) Also, sweep it around the circuit board, switches, fuses. By the way are you flinging yourself from 100 foot sand dunes in that dune buggy or something with wings? I used timing and drive portions of my old desulfator and the 4 IRF740s on a small heat sink are just slightly warm to the touch, so at least I know it's handling significant current.
My best guess on timing parameters is about 1kHz and a 10microsecond pulse (based more on calculation than measurement). Their response time is much slower than that, especially when you put several in parallel.

I will build another of Mark's design in later days to try reviving that battery as the first I made was a mess.
The reason I could think why the compact cell develop a bad cell is because those electrolyte that were not dissolve and fell on the bottom shorted out a weak cell. I have had electronics subject back on my college days but never really the time to play with it, until I got interested with solar power and battery. This separator must prevent each plate from touching the next one and in the mean time, to allow ions to move freely between the plates during charge and discharge process.
This gives me an output current pulse range from 100-200 amps to 20 amps, depending on the state of the battery.)2. I also have a battery (70AH) that I purchased from local battery store and was 12.10 volts and the guy tested the battery with a load tester and resulted to "weak to bad" state. I'm thinking as long as the capacitor is higher than the input value then I'm good even though different micro Farad value.
Im not sure if this is correct but this how I understand it, both negative of the 110 and 12volts will be connected together acting as ground and the positive lead of 110 will go to the cap bank and the 12 volts will go to the timer module.
But, if you are doing what I think you are doing, please stop, unplug and remove your power supply modifications. The short will occur when two plates touch each other due to any reason, such as excess mechanical vibration, excess build up of sulfate that grow to the extend of pushing one plate towards the adjacent (deformation) penetrating the separator. This circuit takes average power in and turns it into pulsed power and thus, must obey the above equasion. These batteries are about 8 years old and were self discharging to < 10V in one day but I had already revived them to some extent with the old desulfator.
This means that when the gate pulse reaches 90%, 50 nanosec later the Mosfet will be at 90% of full turn on. I'm not using the 2X555 pulser except for pulse charging, I'm now using one 555 as astable and one 74AS00 as monostable.
I'm excited to building again the direct drive desulfator, I will have to buy a dozen of 250volts capacitor, what do you think would be optimal microfarad value for this kind of setup? I think best solution is pulsing as you would not have to deal with acid and no lifting those heavy battery.
My question now is would the stepped down 110volts the same analogy as the 110volts from the Power Company transformer (Fig.
Sulfate cristals are almost non conductive and that is why they limit the battery's ability to accept charge. I saw the schematic on your website, and if you keep an eye on the battery voltage there should be no harm to the battery. Mark explained that with this configeration and the Mosfets I'm using, the minimum pulse width would be 200 ns, but any way, I'm testing in a wider range now (5000 ns or 5 us).
They should produce much less heat (and deliver much more power to the battery.)The only battery it have not been able to bring back into service has been one that had a shorted cell.
One for capacitor bank, one for the timer and lastly for the switchers (Mosfets) then stack them altogether. I hope you could post your circuit diagram for some of us maybe able pick up some idea out of it.
If true, then I will just use the 12 volts power adapter and put them in series so to increase the voltage. Corrosion can also make even tiny peaces of plates fall off and make a short.I used to have hopes that shorts could be treated, I even used sink cleaning agent to flush batteries but non worked, as Mark advised, chances of correcting a short are very slim without opening the battery which is not worth it. At this current your IRF540 would quickly burn out.) From the results you describe I believe you are pulsing at least 80 amps.
I charged it up and the battery is taking 15volts and 2amps maximum from the charger, I let it charge for 1 hour but it seems it has developed a bad cell already. I don't see the negative pulse with the traditional desulfator but there is a huge charging pulse width difference between the two circuits, 50 nanoseconds verses 10 microseconds. I'm not aware of FETs so that would garantee if there are any disadvantages with it's impedance or frequency, the old IRF640 in parallel will handle.My version of 555 is 1k resistor + 1k pot that covers from 7 to 14 uS pulse. I open the valves and saw 3 cells are corroded (sulfated), I measured the voltage and one cell has 0.05 volts only. Other part is 30k resistor + 120k pot - about 940 to 4500 hz a little effecting by pulse width.I'm wondering about my wires to the battery. This morning the battery is warm and most of the cells has lower liquid level compared to the bad cell. I will try this battery with the high power pulser when I'm finished building it since the battery may have shorted due to sulfation.

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