12v battery vs 24v battery life,the best car battery malaysia supplier,buy eneloop battery charger - Step 3

05.04.2015
In the last installment we identified some of the potential problems in an RV campers 12V systems. Inadequate cabling (length and gauge) – causing voltage drop  and severely impacting charging.
If you remember, I strongly considered just upgrading the wiring between the converter and the batteries. The intention is to run the 120V AC from the output of the converter breaker from the power distribution panel to the front storage compartment of the trailer.
I had a 2 stage converter that did a slow charge with 13.6 volts, I knew I wanted to bump it up to a 3 stage to decrease the charging time down the road.
This is just inside the street side front storage compartment door and is bolted to the front of the trailer.
Here you can see where the new penetration is through the floor of the front storage compartment. I knew from my prior reading at the Wind&Sun Forums and The 12V Side of Life that mixing old and new batteries was a bad idea, meaning I had to replace them both. When selecting batteries, if you choose 12V you get to add the AH capacity of each battery together. Picked two off the shelf that had very recent manufacturing dates (same month I was buying) and hauled them home. The prior owner of my previous trailer, a Casita Spirit Deluxe 17′, had replaced its stock converter with a Progressive Dynamics and it worked great for me.
This is the permanent 30A outlet I had installed on near the trailer storage location on the side of my house.
At this point I’ve already done the hard part of moving the converter and installing the new one was a piece of cake. I’m a firm believer for a boondocker – and it can be done for a lot less than you may think!


We never hooked up the generator (although our friends had to on their trailers – I see a project helping them in the future!)  On the 4th day, I took a voltage reading from the batteries right before hooking up to come home.
Remember, you typically don’t want to run them down below 50% to get a good long life from the batteries. During the summer we rarely need the furnace so I bet we could go well over a week in the boonies. A HUGE thank you to all my sources (linked throughout this writeup)  Without them, and their knowledgable members I couldn’t have pulled this off.
Numerous others such as battery manufacturer web sites, misc sites found while googling, cable loss calculators, etc, etc. Kyle, I have a RV similar to yours, and have experienced the same challenges in loss of battery power and ability to recharge thoroughly. I have to be honest in that if I looked at those products I have no recollection of them so can’t advise. The way I understand it you ran 4AWG wire from the converter directly to the batteries and then ran 6AWG from the batteries all the way back to the DC distribution panel, correct? The 24 volt winch will draw half the current a 12 volt one will, so its easier to keep things running and charged. I understood it was normal on 'diesel multiple unit' trains, where two seperate alternators are driven by a common hydraulic motor.
A bloke told me he saw an off road installation fail with a bang, but I cannot see it myself.
If i was starting agin with an electric winch; I'd fit two batteries with two alternators, as two totally seperate systems.
I once had a lorry that had two alts, one was for the vehicle and the other ran a massive set of batterys for an inverter, the two systems are separate but both 24 volt and sharing the same earth, it worked well. Why use two alts wehn you can get some big 100amp+ ones if you hunt around, dont loose sight of the damage you could do to a battery by charging it too fast.


Twin 12v alts, charging seperate batteries, if the engine alt dies flick a switch to bring the spare alt into action and maybe activate a split charge to put charge into the spare battery?
Twin alternators connected to a single battery is no problem, twin batteries connected together will work fine until one dies then it will flatten the other!
But not being that familiar with wiring sizes and amperage flow just wasn’t sure what size wire to use where. Only advantage I think my trailer has is the power panel is under the sink area about half way down the trailer.
You would only gain one or half a volt when the winch was working really hard, but that maybe enough to help. I would like to install a seperate charge controller in the front, but provide power directly to it from my 2000 W Honda generator in order to recharge my batteries.
Look at the specs of a 12v winch verses a 24v version of it and look at the difference between them, you will find there is a higher line speed and less current draw from the 24v winch as opposed to the 12v version. Theory says one alternator works until its voltage is dragged down a bit, then the second kicks in. If it was only 'on demand' the circuits would be mostly seperated, and the starter battery would mostly be able to start the engine.
I'm yet to test the theory as we use a lot of power, but not enough to need two alternators.
Unfortunately I have no idea what a winch battery gets dragged down to when the motor stalls out.
So, the old 8AWG wire was run under the trailer inside the frame along the street side of the trailer.



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Comments 12v battery vs 24v battery life

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