12v battery 2006 prius engine,5 amp car battery charger hellcat,office depot rechargeable aa batteries - And More

24.11.2014
If you have a prius or are thinking about working on one, the 12v battery that turns on all the computers as you start the car is located in the very rear passenger side of the car. Why wouldn't it be burried and bolted in so deep it's impossible to change out or hook up jumper cables to??
So, what can I realistically draw continuously by connecting my inverter to the 12v battery? I hooked up some low gauge wire to the 12v terminal under the hood and then a ground bolt in the same area.
Most other discussions I've read go from the battery, because the battery can deliver a lot of amps for a short time (like startup surge). If you are going to draw more than 125A (dereated for actual Prius load too) then you have to go off of the battery. The yellow at the bottom of the picture behind that black plastic piece (it slides off) comes directly from the inverter. Growing tired of not finding the images I wanted on the internet, I just went outside and snapped a few of my own. The thick white cable from the inverter is fused at 125A, according to the top of the fuse box. If I draw current from the fuse box, I understand what you're saying about more continuous power, but I don't have room for any surge, right? The NEC says that you should really only draw 30A through that wiring continuously with 60C insulation.
And really, 15mohms of resistance doesn't account for the connectors and other environmental factors. You seem knowledgable with a thirst for real engineering, I encourage you to join the Prius Technical Group on the Yahoo Groups email list.
I had some of the same concerns that you had considering the large size of the cables going to a 12V inverter and the proper fusing.
AHetaFan's write-up is excellent and the way he had good input in to the proper fuse selection is also excellent. Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Wooster Green Cars, Jul 27, 2011.
Install a new 12V battery, and have the inverter cooling pump recall performed if it has not been done already. P0AA6 means that the high voltage fault could be anywhere in the high voltage path from the traction battery to the inverter, to the transaxle and AC compressor. The repair manual recommends that the tech disconnect the cables running from the inverter to the two MGs, then measure resistance of each of the six terminals leading to the MGs; to ground using a megger. I agree that since it is easy to unplug the compressor and DTC P3009 was logged, this should be tried first. The OE battery from the dealer (Steve also stocks them) which is an Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM), lead acid battery that has a safety vent tube. I was trying to find the 12V and it is suppose to be somewhere in the passenger compartment.
Much easier to access than the battery, especially if the battery is dead, as the hatch release is electric.
Good info, I would not have looked for that (jump location other than on actual battery) in the owners book.


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But when I looked at the 2010 Prius cables to the 12v battery, they look very thin (10 AWG?), and don't look like they could carry much current. The owners manual clearly states that it's OK to use that to start the Prius using jumpers, but to never use it to jump another car.
It looks like a heavy white wire, but beneath where it's plugged into the fusebox is the fusible link.
However I would be surprised if they changed it substantially from what they had going on in the GenII.
That main one that is blown is the main 100A (in GenII) but it also has separate exits for other parts of the system also fused in the link at various amperages. The only time this is not true, is if you have large cycling loads where the instantaneous power for a few cycles is greater than the max output of the inverter. At the battery, there is a 140A fuse in the battery connection, but the wire looks like 10 gauge. If you have 15ft of wiring (probably conservative since it is not a straight run, it is snaking around body panels) that is 15mohms of drop. I am not sure if they still put a thermocouple in that big red thing over the + terminal, but they used to.
I was really glad to see AHetaFan make his excellent post on using the AIMS 220V inverter that connects to the HV battery. P0AA6 is reported by the hybrid vehicle ECU while P3009 is reported by the air conditioner ECU. When I got in the car this morning and tried to start it the volts on the scangauge were 11.8. It is a somewhat more robust battery that fits, is also an AGM, and has provisions for a vent tube.
I have read so much about that battery and I'm a new car owner, I wanted to be able to know where to find it JUST IN CASE.
According to the Xantrex manual, the inverter should deliver 900w continuous, and 2000w peak.
It takes the HV DC from the traction battery and produces the 12v that runs down and charges the battery.
They say don't jump because if you reverse the polarity of the cables, the inverter is toast. Simple yet brilliant way of having multiple high current fuses, except a PITA to replace and not something you can buy at 3am when it explodes. In that case you connect it to the battery and when your circular saw or air conditioner is turned on and draws 3000W for a second, the battery is providing the excess 2000W. And if the power draw temporarily increases, I figure the battery will supply the additional surge for a second or so.
The inverter should have its own fast blow fuse for 100A between the input of the inverter and the Prius. One of the dangerous aspects of mounting my headlights and AC-inverter connections where I did, is that there is no protection from the fusible link.


So when you are connecting the inverter cables to the HV battery output terminals there is no voltage present. The only issue is that it is not tremendously safe to be driving the car with one side of the high voltage line touching body ground.
It may be one of the three unholy triad repairs: transaxle, inverter, or battery, but only 1. We hope you'll join our home to educated & critical discussion, falling outside of the fray of Internet trolls & unconstructive discussion.
Then when it calms down to sub-1000W, the inverter then is supplying all the power and slowly recharging the battery too. You are going to get a 1v drop across the line, and the itty bitty 10awg wire bundled up in the bowels of the car with no air flow will be dissipating 65W of waste heat.
If the other side is shorted (via collision accident for example) then you may have a big safety problem.
The 3-4 hour drive from Ohio is worth it (There is a Super8 motel that is a 25 minute walk from his site, I've done that walk to have him get my Prius going). It gets a short ~1s burst of about 15A to 30A to prime the brake pump, then it flips a couple relay coils at a few tens of milliamps a piece, then the inverter kicks on the battery sits there as a load charging away until the next time it is needed for almost nothing.
But to draw 1000W in the back continuously, you will need to rewire from the front of the car to the back by the 12v battery. Usually they just cram a bunch of capacitance on the output so that short inductive load like a motor can startup without problems. I've replaced the spark plugs, regular oil changes, pcv valve, and drained and refilled the transaxle with the required fluid from Toyota. I kept the fridge plugged in which was a large inductive load, and my rackmount server cabinet with its own UPS and server system. If this code pops while I don't even have the ac on would that also indicate it's the transmission? The current wiring will not, the Prius was not designed to pull any sort of power from the AUX battery area to the hood.
When I go to start the car almost all the lights come up on the dash and the car won't go into ready mode.
I have a scan gauge that doesn't find any codes but if I force clear the codes and shut the car off it starts up just fine. I drove the car over 100 miles after clearing the codes and it ran fine and the codes didn't come back while driving just when I tried to restart it. I'm thinking (hoping) these are false codes and I need a new aux battery or something. Am I correct to think that if the transmission needs replaced the car won't drive or perform correctly which is not the case?



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