12 volt car battery amp output,battery in car key fob watch,lumia 1020 low battery life - Easy Way

In here you will find techniques for driving on rock, mud, gravel or sand - whatever your surface. You could be forgiven for thinking that half the world is touring Australia on Highway 1 - 14,500km and the longest national highway on the planet.
From making great coffee to whipping up a quick campside meal for everyone - the cooking section has everything from selecting practical pots and pans to a host of great fire side recipes. The modern 4WD tourer is required to perform duties far beyond it's design and the additional power demands created by fridges, caravans, lighting and entertainment systems may mean a serious upgrade to the vehicle's electrical system is in order. Auto electrics is a dark science and we're not going to get overly technical here, just a basic outline of some principles, good practise and proven techniques.
The addition of a 12 volt refrigerator is the usual catalyst for the installation of a dual battery system, whether it's sitting in the back of the 4WD or being towed in the caravan behind. Onto to this primary electrical system we are happy to add things like GPS navigation systems, phone chargers, interior lighting and in car entertainment systems. When in camp we make a distinct point of having no accessories that draw power from the starting battery.
Everytime we turn the ignition key we want to know the starting battery is fully charged and we can drive away from camp. Expect a touring lifespan of between eighteen months and two years for a reasonable quality lead-acid 12 volt battery. The key - buy large capacity, quality batteries and use and maintain them as per manufacturers recommendation. Fuses are deliberate weak points in the circuit and they give up long before big thick cables and electrical connections do. Unlike cables where 'bigger is better', fuses need to be the appropriate size for the job at hand.
Correct cable size means we get as much possible voltage arriving at our electrical device, which equates to safer use (no overheated cables creating shorts), better operation of our electrical devices and faster charging of our auxiliary battery. Other factors affect voltage and voltage drop, including temperature and cable construction but this is intended as a very basic primer and the theory and math involved in automotive electrics can be overwhelming. The smart side of charging and managing dual battery systems is handled by a battery isolator. When you turn off the car engine, electrical devices like your 4WD fridge continue to draw power from both batteries. We're assuming your auxiliary battery is securely mounted with appropriate ventilation and protected from extremely hot engine components (like exhausts and turbochargers). Mount the battery isolator in the same manner as the auxiliary battery - firmly and securely and away from hot engine components. Care must be taken to avoid moving parts such as suspension components and steering columns. Wherever a cable must run over sharp metallic corners be conscious to tie it in such a way as to prevent rubbing. Wherever cables run through metal panels such as doors frames and firewalls, use a rubber grommet to prevent rubbing between the cab and the steel. Secure terminated cables to battery and isolator terminals using a nut, standard washer and a spring washer. There are plenty of choices around at plenty of price points and some work great and some dona€™t. Discover the best in 4WD accessories or learn how to prepare your vehicle for an offroad excursion. Running a fridge from the standard electrical circuit via the cigarette lighter socket may be fine for the occasional weekend away but if you're 'going bush' then it's time to think about a dual battery system.

The absolute priority is to protect the vehicles starting (cranking) battery from being flattened and thus rendering the car unable to be started.
The primary system contains the starting (cranking) battery and the alternator (which provides battery recharging and will eventually provide charging to both batteries) and all the electronics required to keep the car operational. Things that can only operate while the engine is running and the starting battery is being charged. We do not want to be stranded with a flat battery because we were trying to keep a bag of peas and a lamb chop frozen. There are no 12 volt shortcuts and if you think you've discovered one it will let you down and you will buy twice. No battery likes being repeatedly discharged and recharged and they don't enjoy being left in an uncharged state. The most common are lead-acid batteries which arrive in 'flooded cell' configuration (pull off the caps and top up the water) and 'sealed' configuration (maintenance free).
Automotive electrical systems carry much larger voltages with much greater current draw than you would assume. One note on cable construction: use well insulated (the plastic outer casing) cable made from multi-strand copper. The alternator of the vehicle creates the electricity required to keep the battery(ies) charged. The driver starts the car and makes a decision to throw the switch over to charge the second battery. These things are basically solenoids (with a small electronic 'brain') which, are connected and act like a switch or 'gate' between the the starting and auxiliary batteries. Once the VSR senses that the voltage in your starting battery has dropped to 12.5 volts (or thereabouts) it opens the 'gate' and isolates the auxiliary battery from the starting battery.
Ideally it will be mounted close to the starting battery to enable the shortest run of cable possible to reduce voltage drop. We've taken these figures from RedArc's literature (Australian manufacturers of battery isolators).
When looking at amp ratings don't get confused with CCA or 'cold cranking amps' which describe the amount of starting power the battery can deliver. Current flow will increase cable temperature and increase resistance which may result in the need for a larger capacity cable. Even if there is no movement, vibration will ensure that the cable frays against the frame causing the circuit to fail. The points made above are a guide only and should be read in conjunction with manufacturers instructions.
This interactive map will help you locate the perfect campsite for your next overnighter or extended stay. The second aim is to provide an auxiliary 12 volt supply - to power all those accessories that make life in camp so much easier. Alternative technologies include AGM Batteries (Absorbed Glass Matt) and GEL Batteries (Gelled Electrolyte Lead-Acid). The enemies of battery longevity are cycling below the manufacturers recommendation, heat and vibration - constant threats on a touring 4WD. Multi-strand cable is more flexible and more forgiving than solid core cable and bends and flexes with less chance of breakage.
In simple terms an isolator allows the charging of the starting battery to an acceptable voltage level and then opens up the electrical circuit so that the auxiliary battery can be charged. The fridge continues to draw power from the second battery but your cranking battery power is preserved so you can start your vehicle in the morning.

These fuses area designed to protect these big, current-carrying cables in the event they wear through and make contact with the car, creating a short and possible fire. The trade-off is that Deep Cycle batteries take longer to recharge and don't have the same levels of cranking amps ('grunt') to turn over the engine of a car for long periods.
Expect to pay upwards of $220 for a traditional lead acid battery and far beyond that for the longer lasting AGM and GEL batteries. Alternately, water is a conductor and can act as a cable, passing electricity between components. Avoid electrical connections wherever possible, using full length cable runs where you can. Systems like this are all a bit hit and miss and frequently lead to failure, usually with the operator forgetting to throw the switch over to the auxiliary battery resulting in a hot fridge. When the starting battery has recovered its charge the VSR opens (like a gate) and delivers charging current to both batteries. It's a clever system, reasonably cheap and most importantly it's reliable and virtually foolproof.
In many instances the circuit relies on the metal in the vehicle to carry the voltage back to the negative terminal of the battery. When dealing with wiring make sure you have ascertained the correct cable size for the job and that you are actually using the correct size in copper wire and not total cable size. Cabs, chassis's, tray backs and doors move independently of each other and allowances must be made for flexing. When cables wear through and contact the metal of the vehicle or water unites the components of a cars electrical circuit, then a 'short' or short circuit is created and electricity can pass through the system unrestricted.
A poor connection acts like a cable that is too small for the intended task and voltage is lost through the circuit.
Let it bash around over corrugated roads and the cells break down, creating internal shorts, which reduces the lifespan.
This unhindered flow of current heats up cables and electrical components to the point of overheating, fire or explosion (in the case of batteries). In a further twist, the further electricity has to run along a cable, the less arrives at the intended destination. Automotive batteries actually have a full charge of 12.6 volts (12 volts is simply more convenient terminology).
In automotive applications we prefer crimped connectors (crimping is the squashing of a terminal around a cable) rather than soldered connectors. While it is possible to connect the negative terminal of the auxiliary battery to the chassis of the car and have the current find it's way back to the total circuit, it's preferable to run a negative cable of the same length back to the negative terminal of the starting battery. By the time the voltages works it's way down a ten metre cable to, say a car fridge, it may only deliver 12.2 volts. Using big, chunky cable on the positive terminal is pointless if we scrimp on the negative side. The larger the cable - the lower the voltage drop, meaning more voltage is available to the accessory.

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