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1991-1997 Town Car and 1992-1997 Crown Victoria and Grand Marquis have a waste-spark ignition system.
The waste-spark EDIS uses two main coil packs, mounted at the front of the engine, with spark plug wires from the packs to each cylinder. As the name denotes, because of the paired cylinder firing one of the sparks is 'wasted' on the non-firing cylinder (which is on it's exhaust stroke). The ignition coils are mounted to the intake manifold, directly above each plug and use a small rubber boot and spring to connect to the plug. You won't notice any power increase from this modification, other than being new(er) coils versus old. I am starting out with mounting, because there is a catch with this and it may shy many of you from the entire project.
So, if you want to use OEM or aftermarket factory-style COPS you need an intakem manifold with these provisions. A few aftermarket vendors are now selling a 4.6l 2v COP which uses no mounting, it simply locks to the plug and plugs into the same connection as the factory. First off, you want to pick up at least 8 COP connectors of a salvage yard car - or order new pigtails from Ford. Basically, what we will be doing is wiring the COPs for the existing coil pack cylinder pairs in SERIES. So, on the right side coil pack wiring we see the cylinder 1 and 6 pair wired to the COPs in series. All of your splices to the COP connector pigtails should be soldered and covered with adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing. Splices to the stock coil pack wiring can be soldered for a permanent install - but I recommend using connectors instead so the harness can be removed if needed.
Make sure to leave PLENTY of slack at the back of the harness, where it crosses over between sides. Those tabs are on the BOTTOM of each COP connector, so these labels won't be seen with the harness installed and can be left on. I used 14 awg wire for the ground trigger wires too and between COP pigtails, and 12 AWG for the switched ignition power feed. You don't want your car shutting down in the middle of the road because of a loose connection, so I recommend soldering all the pigtails and using adhesive-lined heatshrink tubing - this has a thin coating of adhesive on the inner wall that will melt as the tubing shrinks, providing even more strain relief and sealing the connection from moisture. The original COP conversion harness I made last year had 18" around the back of the manifold. Another change I made this time was to use heatshrink at the base of each pigtail to keep the wires neater and make taping up the harness easier.

I like keeping the harness removable from the stock engine harness if needed, so inline connectors are needed. Note, those blue seals and the terminals pictured are for the thicker wiring I was using - size to your application! To make absolutely certain this wouldn't fall apart, I decided to solder over the crimped connections as well. You can see the wire insulation melted some out of the crimped seal from the heat when soldering.
If desired you can also use male on one end and female connector on the other of your harness and matched to the factory wiring so it can *only* be installed the right way and not reversed. Something I didn't think of before installing mine - you could also wrap the back section with foil tape of insulating sleeve to protect the harness from heat from the EGR tube. I recommend you retain these to prevent any unwanted electrical noise feedback to the sound system.
I've logged nearly a thousand miles so far on this conversion, with forced induction, without issue.
BTW, make sure to use plenty of dielectric grease on those COP boots - all around the seal to the head and some inside the tip to plug as well. On most Chevrolet engines the #1 cylinder is the first cylinder at the front of the engine on the driver side (left side) of a rear-wheel drive car or truck. The cylinders are numbered in a staggered sequence going from side-to-side, starting with the #1 cylinder going towards the back of the engine (see illustrations below). The correct firing order is very important because mixing up the spark plug wires may prevent the engine from starting, cause it to backfire and run very poorly if at all. NOTE: On engines where two adjacent spark plugs fire right after each other, it is important to make sure the spark plug wires are not routed right next to each other for a long distance.
On engines with distributorless ignition systems or coil-on-plug ignition systems, the firing order is controlled by the ignition module or engine computer.
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This was the first all-electronic distributor-less ignition system for the panther platform with it's new 4.6l Modular engine. THere are 4 total ground triggers, one for each coil in each coil pack, and each one for two cylinders.
This system uses a separate ignition coil for each cylinder, allowing full individual spark control of each cylinder by the power train control module. This applies to the '96-'97 guys who are (and want to stick with) their factory non-COP manifolds as well.

This will fire both COPs for the corresponding cylinder pair using the existing PCM ground triggers at the coil pack connectors. Parallel would be better as then if there is an issue with one COP it won't knock out the other COP it is paired with.
Since the factory groudn trigger wires are all tan base color, I used tan wire which I made color coding stripes on for the cylinder pairs.
Although this seemed plenty mocking it up off the car, the fit was a little tighter than I wanted, so this time I made it longer for more room.
These have been around for years, made by Delphi (formerly Packard-Electric) originally for GM vehicles. Mine are still wired in with the stock wiring, which I cut AFTER the splice to the capacitors.
You must first disconnect the negative battery terminal and then relieve the fuel pressure. So, we need to fire two of the new COPs at the same time using the existing PCM ground triggers. If your manifold has already been replaced for the coolant crossover issue, you're in luck. So, that would be the easiest way for '92-'95 to go ahead with this conversion without EXTENSIVE modifications.
They are easy to put together and extremely resilient to vibration, heat and the elements - making them an ideal choice. I enlarged the holes on the metal mounting tab for each and mounted them to one of the existing timing cover bosses where the coil pack brackets were on each side, using the same bolts. After you will have to remove the intake assembly to get at the starter which then after that its pretty basic to remove the starter. All the updated aluminum crossover manifolds have the COP provisions - so you're good to go. Just be sure to torque the bolts on the intake back to spec when reassembling (torque specs are written on the intake manifold in bold yellow lettering from what I can recall). The PCM ground triggers cannot support enough amperage to ground BOTH COPs when wired in parallel. It`s very easy when you know what you`re confident and have some simple mechanical ``know-how``.

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