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All motorists who need to renew their driver licenses in 2006 should prepare early and consider renewing their driver license before the last minute. I have two switch's, a 3 way, 6 pole and a 3 way, 3 pole switch, which one would be better?
Here is what I was told so far, use a 3 way, 6 post switch, middle post to battery, bottom post on the same side to running lights, top post on opposite side to headlights, then a jumper to the bottom post on the same side. Great minds talk about ideas, average minds talk about events, small minds talk about people. So basically Steevo's drawing is correct except for missing the one wire on the 12V power supply, correct? You're right Larry, when I mentioned up, the toggle switch is up, but the bottom poles are being used and visa versa but I think we are all on the same page. To get the switch to work, I had to run power to both of the middle posts and it now works just fine. This was a 6 post, on-off-on and I thought that if you put power to one of the middle posts, it would power both sides, just like how it is shown in the above drawings.
I just had this gut feeling this was the problem, so what I did was, I switch the power wire to the other post on the other side and guess what, the head lights worked but the parking lights didn't. So, the very first thing you need to do is to verify that the fuel pump is delivering at least 50 PSI of fuel pressure while the engine is cranking. NOTE: In case you're wondering, the factory manual specifies that the fuel pressure for the CSFI system should be between 56-62 PSI. Before you install the fuel pressure gauge, place some rags around it and underneath the fuel line (in case some fuel spills out when you connect the gauge to it). The next step is to observe the fuel pressure gauge's needle (after your helper stopped cranking the engine).
IMPORTANT: This test result could be telling you that the PassLock anti-theft system has armed itself and is keeping your pick-up or SUV from starting.
If the engine does not get at least 50 PSI when cranking, it won't start (and is the surest indicator that the fuel pump will go completely BAD in short).
I want to convert my 4020 this winter and would welcome any suggestions, tips, and direction you might have.

If you make up your own kit,add an auxiliary cranking relay,it will make it crank better,and burn up less starters and solenoids. Think I can figure out the wiring but wondered if I have to get a different starter or will they work either ?
2015 bmw 2-series active tourer first drive – review, 2015 bmw 2-series active tourer the revolution will be front-drive.. 2015 bmw 2-series active tourer photos and info – news, The 2-series active tourer is the second bmw-badged model to be fitted with a three-cylinder engine after the i8 plug-in hybrid sports car. Bmw 2 series active tourer xdrive (2015) first drive, Bmw’s 2 series active tourer brings four-wheel drive capability to the mpv party – it’s still great to drive and is as premium as ever. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. Makes for an easier time of it for the switch as it only has to carry a small load to energize the relays. I got everything wired up and used a realy for the headlights and verifed that that worked.
I've also included how to check a no fuel condition with starting fluid (although this is not the most effective way to test the fuel pump).
This is where you'll connect your fuel pressure gauge (the first photo, in the image viewer, is of a 4.3L, and the second of the V8 engine).
Once the fuel pressure gauge registers pressure, check for fuel leaks around the Schrader valve. It's important that you have someone else crank the vehicle so that you can eye-ball the fuel pressure gauge. The needle should descend to about 40 to 45 PSI and stay there for at least 4 to 5 minutes.
This means that the fuel pump is BAD, even if you spray starting fluid down the throttle body and your vehicle Starts. If in your case the gauge read 45 to 49 PSI, the engine will eventually start after several attempts as the fuel starts to accumulate on the Pistons or if you spray starting fluid (or carb spray) into the intake. With a one wire alternator,your stock generator light will not work and alternator "kick in" speed may be quite high.

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This is because in about 50% of the time, the fuel pump delivers enough fuel to keep the engine running but not enough to start the engine (instead of just frying completely and not delivering any fuel at all). If you install the more common 3 wire delco alternator ,wired as I described in the above post, then the alternator will "kick in" at lower rpm and you have no need to install a volt or amp meter to indicate if the alternator is working.
What I had was, the parking lights worked with the switch in both on positions, but no headlights. When this happens, you're able to spray starting fluid (or carb spray) down the engine and it'll start and run (once you turn it off, you have to spray again to get it started).
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With the help of friends and family I have been able to take down my frist tractor now and restore it back. The hardest thing was probaly finding the right parts cause there not alot places out there makeing every and anything for older tractors like.
So with the help of ebay (how did we ever surive with out it) I tracked down parts in good enough shape to be used to restor it. It took little over a year to find all the correct parts and have enough spare time to restore this tractor but its finally done now.
Connect the White (#1) lead to the small wire in the original regulator harness that lights the Gen light when connected to ground with the key turned on.

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