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After running my 2012 KTM 350 EXC-F for the summer in Northern Michigan sand, I decided to replace the little screamer with some much needed low end grunt! I am an older rider, I had quit riding for 16 years due to moving out of the area, just got back into it this past summer. I used Sicass Racing street legal kit (best kit out there!), ignition switch, all plugs right into your factory connectors!
Via email, text message, or notification as you wait on our site.Ask follow up questions if you need to. Thanks David, You confirmed the location of the Pwr Steering Reservoir, but it's not low. Tory Johnson, GMA Workplace Contributor, discusses work-from-home jobs, such as JustAnswer in which verified Experts answer people’s questions.
I would (and have) recommend your site to others I was quite satisfied with the quality of the information received, the professional with whom I interacted, and the quick response time. The reason for air in the system is because the pump is sucking air because of too little oil in the transmission or an leaking O-ring between the pump and the inlet pipe. When you took the left hand side off I'm sure quite a bit of oil leaked out of the ram cylinder and if it was low in the first place this could be too low now.
I would do your best to get this back to 2000 by topping up the oil and bleeding the air but 1500 will still be good enough for decent lift of the arms if all is working on the control valve.
I would pay attention to getting the lubrication pipe set well into the side of the valve chest. The reason you will see a big drop in pressure when you switch over the valve must be due to the bypass valve still not closing off. Before you took it apart you could see the oil flow would not shut off in raise mode so you knew that the valves were the issue. It's possible that the control lever and push rod set up is never putting the spool valve in the right position so try setting the control rod first as per my previous post. If that all looks okay it may be time to try Erkki's trick of the metal rod in the bypass valve to keep it shut. I did pretty much everything you have done and set my spool valve to exactly the 104 etched. So, as a temporary measure I figured that the filter SHOULD be clean since it hasnt been doing anything anyhow, and the filter SHOULD be able to support pump operation alone.
I really do wish I was more familiar with this thing if for nothing else I could explain myself better. Not sure this would cause the pressure drop or air issues but if you do drain it all down and replace the oil I would check the grade of oil for your geography. The oil will not give air or pressure loss issues in the hydraulic systems, as long as the oil used is not automatic transmission fluid (atf) mixed with engine oil or tractor oil universal. So today I started out by draining the fluid, and putting the existing fluid back into the original bucket for now. I popped off the filter and threw it in the trash, refilled the case with another 5 gallons of new fluid.
I fired the engine up, cracked the Cessna valve with my finger over the port an in a few moments had a solid flow of fluid. Pushed the cessna valve the other way to send fluid to the gauge and right up to to a 2200 psi spike then settled back to 2000 psi. So I hooked up to my main attachment, a Bush Hog Model 406 that weighs in at about 1700lbs. Since I was dying to see if the DB had enough to tow my bush hog, and since the brush outside my fenceline was very tall I went to cut it to try it out. With all the dirt you have found in the hydraulics, I am most sure that there is dirt in the fuel tank as well. I know the quadrant lever and selector dial causes quite a bit of confusion but you mentioned pulling the lever back in TCU mode to lift. From your description of the erratic lifting it does sound like you have dirt in the valve chest again.
It is also possible the your control rod and push rods are not right so I would select height mode and watch in the back right hand opening to see if the height push rod engages correctly on the back of the rocker lever.
When you pull back the quadrant lever the arms keep lifting until the push rod presses down on the back of the rocker lever - this then lifts the spool valve to hold mode and stops the arms lifting any more.

The fuel bleed points are shown in the manual - on the filter and pump, so I wouldn't drive it far until the can see in the bowl that there are no bubbles left. Since the nearest CASE dealer is about 200 miles away, I just ordered a bunch of stuff from a place called Messicks.
Obviously I will also take the control valve back apart and clean out any stuff that may have gotten into it. I know running it without the filter was not the wisest choice, but I wanted to try to assess the rest of the system to determine if everything was shot. One thing I was extremely impressed about was 12 hours after taking that photo, the bush hog was still up in the air. You dont have to pull the hyd control valve apart, just clean the by-pass valve orfice washer. Main reason I was figuring on just pulling the valve chest back out and re-cleaning it is because if I am going to drain the fluid, remove the ram shaft and all that so I can replace the ram seals, as well as the PTO cover so I can get to the pump and reseal that, theres not a lot more work in pulling all the spools back out of the valve chest and hitting them with an air blast?
Also, the parts diagram shows that the pipe from the tank to the lift pump comes out of the bottom of the tank.
Boy are these KTM front ends skittish compared to the older ones (99' 300 and 96' 360 exc's) Both the 350 and the new 500 act as though they skip 6" or so in a turn, it comes out of nowhere!
Normally its best after its been sitting for a bit, this way any air bubbles can make it to the top and not cause a false reading.
The reason can also be a broken brass connector between the rear of the inlet pipe and the vacuum switch. The 0-ring in the suction side flange under the pump body is probably loosing its function and when there is some vacuum in the suction pipe, it allows air into the system.
When this dirt is plugging the suction pipe in the tank, the lift pump will suck in air trough every connection between the tank and the pump.
In this mode the rocker is shifted onto the abutment plate at the front and the arm presses on the TCU valve (the T bar tool you were asking about has one of the holes to set the TCU screw to correctly engage the TCU valve). If the nylon gauze is miising or leaking, very filthy gearbox oil can cause problem within a few minutes. I think that because the tractor keeps the arms up that well, there is no need for new seals to the piston. After removing the vacuum sensor ans bolts, it will stay there by a couple of dowel, which align the box with the rear axle housing. I had real doubts about this website but your promptness of response, quick followup and to the point answer with picture was incredible. A worn cutless bearing can cause problems ranging from annoying vibrations to a damaged prop shaft.
This will happen if the pto housing has been removed without first removing the brass connector. It is well possible that the tractor has experienced the air leak in its previous life and the owner has came to a conclusion that the problem is plugged suction filter and so he has solved the problem by opening a free access to the oil.
In old tractors there can be a lot of dirt sediments in the gearbox which do not flow out when drainig the old oil. The box is some too heavy unit to handle alone without a hoist or trolly, so if here is no athlete available, prepaire to use some device to get the box out by a controlled manner.
It helps for a while but in long run it gives trouble to the hydraulics when the oil becomes dirty. Never use hydraulic oil in a David Brown hydraulic system, the oil also lubricates the gear box, differential and pto. And yes, the suction pipe in the tank can crack if it is rusty as may well be looking at the tractor in your pictures. When new oil in in and the tarctor start running and flushing the gearbox, the stuff solves and starts circulating in the hydraulics too. Lower units can also be damaged if water trapped inside freezes and expands, cracking the housing or causing seals to fail and draining the oil. Adjust the cam plate as follows: Lift the lower links up to maximum height and support them there. Basically power steering fluid is a hydraulic oil with special lube for the pump and steering rack.
Before you even move your boat, inspect the engine for any signs of freeze damage, such as cracks, rust streaks, leaking oil, or puddles.

Loosen the two nyloc nuts that hold the cam plate and insert a small dowel in the hole in the rear face of the cam plate. This fluid is not like a syn oil that can not be mixed with other types of Power steering fluid. Turn the cam plate in both directions until you feel when the roller falling into the dent in the cam plate and tighten the nuts. It looks like you have dirt in the valve chest again because of the problems with the filter.
If you find anything that doesn't look right, have it checked before even thinking about launching your boat. Adjust the nyloc nut on the operating rod as follows: Set the nyloc nut so that the nut is flush with the end of the rod. You must have the filter system rebuild to the original shape or the hydraulics will never work properly. Move the main control lever fully back in the quadrant and then push the lever forward so, that there is a 10 mm gap between the rear face of the lever and the rear stop in the quadrant. Failed bellows and shaft logs are two of the most common causes of sinking in the BoatUS Marine Insurance claim files. Even if they looked fine in the fall, carefully inspect them now, before your boat goes in the water. Note, if you can not select tcu, tighten the nut a few turns before you start the adjustments.
Now turn the nut inwards until the hitch just starts to lift and let the arms come up to the maximum height.
Now try to select all 3 positions and make sure that the pump will be on in all 3 positions before the control lever hits the end of its movement.
Next, adjust the return spring so, that the pump will stop pumping when you let your hand off the lever. A stuffing box should allow a coupleof drops a minute through when the engine is running, and little or no water when it's not.Bilge Pump And SwitchThe best way to make sure your pump and switch have survived the winter intact is to do what Mother Nature would do a€” add some water to your bilge. If not, check electrical connections at the pump and switch, which is the most common area for failure.Control CablesThrottle, shift, and steering cables slide inside a sheath, so it's hard to see their condition. If you hear crunchy sounds, the cable is rusty inside and needs to be replaced.Electrical ConnectionsA faulty electrical connection can leave you stranded on your first day.
If you had flickering lights or odd electrical problems last season, your gremlins are probably due to loose wires or connections.
Better to have them come apart now than out on the water.Check FluidsEven if you changed the lower-unit oil last fall, verify that it's still topped up. Check the engine, transmission, and trim-tab oil and any hydraulic fluids your boat may have. If there's less in there than when you laid up in the fall, you need to find the reason why before simply topping up.Hoses And Thru-hullsCheck every one of your hoses and thru-hulls before your boat goes in the water.
Over time, seacocks get stiff and may not be able to be closed when you really need them a€” like when water is gushing into the boat through a split hose.
Make sure every seacock opens and closes freely, and take a look at the hoses and clamps as well.
In fact, do more than take a look a€” give the hoses a firm, twisting tug to find any hoses and clamps that are past their prime.Cockpit DrainsOver the winter, your cockpit and deck drains may have accumulated a lot of crud, from leaves and dirt to critters. A clogged or slow cockpit drain can sink a boat, especially an older one that might already be squatting lower in the water.
Next, locate your fire extinguishers and make sure the pressure gauge is still in the green. Check that you have enough life jackets, they're the right sizes for your expected crew (do they still fit the kids or grandkids?), and they're in good shape with no damage or heavy mildew.
If you have sleeping accommodations on a boat with a gas engine or propane stove, make sure there's a working carbon-monoxide alarm, most can be tested like a smoke alarm by pressing the test button.
Also, take the opportunity to make a test call on your boat's VHF and on your handheld, if you have one (you can call your local TowBoatUS for a radio check).

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