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Category: Dog Trainers Los Angeles | Author: admin 28.08.2014
It seems that everyone takes a major guilt trip with the thought of crating their puppy any more than the minimum required – at night and when gone from the house.
This mindset then creates yet another stressor, when, after having all that freedom during the day, the puppy is finally crated so that mom can try and complete a few house chores without the puppy under foot.
If you plan on crating your puppy at specific times during the day (the same time every day) in order to get things done around the house, then those crating times also become predictable activities. If you’ve made the mistake of teaching your puppy that he’s going to free roam all the time when you are home, then that becomes the expected routine.  You will need to practice gradually getting him used to his new routine of being crated more often while you are home. You will be rewarded with some great benefits to more frequent crating while you are home during the day as well as  in the evening when the family is home – from just after school to bedtime. Time out of the crate with your puppy will be supervised time on leash with you and the family for dog obedience training, working on good manners like no jumping or biting, supervised playtime with the family and age appropriate walks – all constructive and controlled time with your puppy on leash. Jim’s Nose To Tail Puppy Training DVD and training manual has received rave reviews from clients, fellow dog trainers, breeders and vets.
How to Teach Your Dog to Love His Crate Train your dog to love his crate, not just put up with it.
Jolanta Benal, CPDT-KA, CBCC-KA, The Dog Trainer January 26, 2010 Episode #047 Ah, the dog crate. If your puppy is still growing, you can buy a crate that will accommodate his adult size, and block off part of it with a divider (sold with some crates) to fill up the extra space. Many humane societies and some veterinarian's offices rent crates, so you can get one that is the appropriate size for your puppy and trade up as the animal grows.
If you plan to use the crate for air travel, be sure to choose one that is approved by the FAA or your airline of choice.
Wire crates are the most inexpensive and breathable, and usually come with dividers for walling off part of the crate to accommodate a growing puppy.
Soft-sided crates are lightweight and portable, however many dogs can chew their way out of them, and they can be difficult to clean. You should plan to move the crate to your bedroom at night when training a puppy, so you can take the puppy out when it needs to go to the bathroom.
Some dog owners simply set up two crates, one in the living area of their homes, and one in the bedroom.
Some dogs and puppies might mistake the bedding for something to chew on, or as bathroom material. Do not shut the door on the dog if he does enter; wait until the dog is secure being in the crate before you close the door. Repeat this process a few times a day for several days, gradually increasing the time your dog spends in the crate. Using lots of positive reinforcement throughout this process will minimize your dog's anxiety. This version of How to Teach Your Dog to Love the Crate was reviewed by Pippa Elliott, MRCVS on July 7, 2015. Kennel style crates are hard plastic crates that are enclosed (except for ventilation holes) on all sides except for the front, which has a wire door.
Wire mesh crates are made of hard wire, which can’t be chewed through, and enables the dog to see out on all sides. A puppy pen, which has wire walls but no floor or cover is another option for very young dogs, but be aware that older dogs may be able to move the pen across the floor or even flip it over, so it should only be used under supervision. Put a piece of plywood on top of the crate that extends about one foot beyond the sides of the crate, then draping a towel or blanket down the sides.
Always remember only to let a dog out of his crate when he is not crying; otherwise, he will learn that crying opens the door. Start saying the command on its own, and when the dog goes to the crate, drop a treat inside to reward him. Remember, only release the dog when she is quiet, so that you reward the good behavior, rather than teaching her that whining gets her what she wants. Slowly and incrementally increase the time until you have built up to about 30 minutes of content crate time. Note that with the exception of nighttime, you should never crate your dog for longer than 4 hours at a time.
In case of accidents: Be sure to use a stain and odor remover so that your dog does not eliminate waste in the same place. When you first get the puppy don't immediately put him in the crate it will just scare him. That’s when the whining and barking starts because the puppy is not used to being crated when people are home. He will begin to connect being crated – without whining and barking at those times as well.
When you want to entertain and don’t want your puppy under foot, he will now feel better about being in his crate – alone without whining or barking. If you introduce your dog or puppy to the crate gradually and with lots of positive reinforcement, the crate will soon become a safe, den-like space that your dog enjoys resting in. Your dog's crate should be just large enough for the dog to stand up in, turn around, and lie down comfortably. There are many different kinds of crates you can buy, including wire, plastic, and soft-sided.
When you begin crate training, it is best to put the crate in a place where you and your family spend a lot of time during the day, like the kitchen or living room. You can close the treats inside the crate for a few minutes to build your dog's interest, or let the dog get to them right away. If your dog is not responding well to treats, try placing a favorite toy, or a brand new and especially tempting chew toy inside the crate. Once your dog will voluntarily enter the crate to retrieve a toy or treat, you can begin feeding him meals inside the crate. Once your dog seems content standing and eating in the crate, you can begin closing the door while he eats. Once your dog is used to eating in the crate with the door closed, you can leave him in for longer periods of time.
When your dog can successfully stay in the crate for 30 minutes without whining or showing signs of distress, you can leave him in the crate while you leave the house for short outings. It is best to keep the crate in your bedroom initially, especially if you have a puppy that may need to pee during the night. Dogs need exercise and social activity to remain physically and emotionally healthy, and over-crating can lead to problems. Don't let your dog out of the crate because of whining, unless you believe the animal needs to eliminate. Sneak a few treats into the crate on Friday evening, and replace them as your dog discovers them.

On Saturday evening, begin practicing leaving the dog alone in the crate for short periods. After the weekend crate training, your dog should be ready to stay in the crate for several hours at a time, depending on the dog's age. The idea is to make the crate the dog's go-to safe place, which he associates with pleasant things. The crate should allow enough room for standing, sitting, and stretching out, but you don't want the crate to be so big that your dog has enough room to make one section of the crate the bathroom and the other the sleeping area. However, wire mesh crates do not provide the “den” feel that most dogs want to experience, so they may not be the best option, even though it is often the least expensive.
If your dog has a favorite toy or comforter, place that in the crate in order to give the dog the idea that it is a nice place. As part of crate training you will seed the crate with tasty treats, again so that the dog associates it as a great location where nice things happen. Even if the dog’s crate is in a high-traffic area during the day, it should be in a safe, quiet area of your home at night.
There will be nights when your new dog is not fully crate trained, but you need to keep him safe overnight. You may want to place the dog, particularly a young puppy, in a large cardboard box beside your bed for the first couple of nights, while you get busy crate training him during the day. You want the dog to "find" the crate of his own accord so that he is more likely to return to the crate. When introducing the dog, set the crate up in the desired location and leave the door open. You can place special treats such as cubes of cheese or pieces of chicken (depending on your dog's likes, dislikes, and allergies) inside the crate sporadically.
After the dog has become accustomed to eating in the crate and goes into the crate all the way while eating, begin to close the door whilst he eats.
Once a dog has gotten used to the door being closed whilst he eats, start gradually increasing the amount of time the door stays closed. For example, leave him in the crate for 2 minutes after eating is finished for 2-3 days before increasing the time to 5 minutes.
At the same time as the dog gets used to the crate, it helps to give a command that the pet associates with going into the crate. It is important that the dog does not immediately associate his crate with being alone or abandoned.
As your dog gets used to it, instead of staying with her all the time, get up and briefly leave the room.
Repeat the crating and leaving process several times each day, whilst building up the amount of time that you spend out of the room before returning to release him.
When your dog feels comfortable being alone in the crate for 30 minutes, you can start leaving him there while you leave the house for short periods of time.
Ignore the dog in the crate at least five minutes before you are due to leave and slip away quietly. Although you are not training your puppy to be comfortable alone necessarily, you do want them to feel as though the crate is their home. Once your puppy is extremely comfortable with the crate, you can confine her there while you are in the room. As your puppy continues to understand that she should use the bathroom outside and not inside, you can work towards eliminating the crate altogether and just take your puppy outside regularly. To dogs, ammonia smells like urine, and thus these products can encourage increased use of a specific spot as a bathroom. Some dogs with protuberant eyes, such as Pekingese, have been known to hurt their eyes on sharp crate edges.
It’s a predictable activity and he connects going to his crate when the family goes to bed.
If you have set an “out of crate precedence,” you may have to ignore whining and barking for a while – until it goes away – but you’ll be glad you did. You can either train your dog or puppy to love the crate slowly, over several days or even weeks, or in just a weekend, depending on what works best for your dog and your schedule.
One of the reasons that crate-training is effective for housebreaking a dog is that dogs will not eliminate waste where they sleep. Say positive things about the crate to show your enthusiasm for it, and allow your dog to explore. Put the food dish all the way back in the crate, and leave the door open while the dog eats his first meal or two in the crate. You can continue to sneak treats into your dog's crate after the initial training period is over to help maintain the positive association with the crate.
If your dog is reluctant to enter the crate completely, slide the bowl closer to the door, but as the dog begins to eat, try to push it further into the crate. Show the dog a treat, and give a command to enter the crate (for instance "go to bed" or "kennel up",) then toss the treat into the crate. After a few repetitions, send the dog into the crate, give him a treat, and then gently close the crate door. This time, once you close the crate door, sit down near the crate for increasingly long intervals of time, until the dog is comfortable being in the crate for a minute at the time.
Then give him the toy, close the door, and then relax in the same room reading or watching TV for half an hour while the dog chews the toy. Exercise your dog thoroughly in the morning, and then send him to the crate and give him a chew toy.
Using the crate as a punishment will send the wrong message and teach the dog to hate the crate. When done correctly, crate training is beneficial to the dog and helps to decrease his stress. Some are even made to look like furniture and can be used as a side table as well as a crate.
This may be a high-traffic area where your family spends a lot of time, but you may also want to provide the dog with some rest time removed from activity, especially at night. Play with the dog so he is tired, then put him in the crate, give him a treat to distract him, and shut the door. The pitfall with this is that if he becomes too used to being at your bedside he will kick up an even bigger fuss when you move him from the bedside to the crate.
When your alarm goes off, take the puppy from the crate or box and pop him outside for a toilet break. Keeping him restricted to the room that contains the crate will make it more likely that he will find and explore the crate on his own terms.
Ideally, put a blanket that smells of his mother and littermates into the crate, so there's a reason for him to investigate.

Each time he goes into the crate, drop what you are doing and give him lots of attention and encouragement.
Therefore, you should not use the crate when you're away from the house until you have built up to a longer period of time. If the dog whines, you have pushed too far too fast, and you should cut back a little next time. On your return, ignore him for several minutes before letting him out of the crate (when he is quiet). However, if you're planning on crate training to housebreak, you should start this process as soon as you bring your new puppy home. This is the feeling that will prevent your puppy from going to the bathroom inside the crate. If the crate is too large, the dog may use one end for sleeping, and use the other as a latrine. However, you should not try to force your dog into the crate or close the door right away if he goes inside. If your dog does enter the crate, be sure to give a lot of positive praise to let him know that you are pleased. Gradually move the treats further and further back into the crate until the dog has to go completely inside to get them.
Then choose a command, such as "kennel up," point to the crate, and encourage him to enter.
If the dog seems comfortable, close the door until he is done eating, but only if things are going well. When the dog goes into the crate to get the treat, give him enthusiastic praise, and another treat while he is inside. After a few times, instead of just throwing the treat into the crate, give the command and don't give the treat until your dog has entered the crate.
Next, send the dog into the crate, and then walk across the room or out of sight before coming back and rewarding your dog. When the time is up, give your dog the command to come out and open the door and take away the toy. Come back and let him out for awhile, then repeat the process with increasingly longer times in the crate. Be sure not to make a big fuss about leaving, and only stay gone for a few hours before returning to give your dog a midday break. In addition, because the dog's instinct is not to soil his own nest, the crate is a great tool for housebreaking.
You don't want the dog chewing a lump off when he is left alone, swallowing a fragment and getting a bowel obstruction. Be aware, however, that any covering such as a blanket or towel can be pulled in through the sides of the crate and chewed up by a bored or anxious dog. Fit, healthy dogs do not need water overnight (the longest they will be left in the crate) unless the weather is very hot. Remember, the crate is not a prison where he goes when he's done something wrong, but a space where nice things happen and he goes because he feels safe there. If the dog only goes into the crate part way, put the food bowl as far in as he is comfortable with. Not only does this help mitigate accidents in your house in the moment, but it will also reinforce the idea to your dog that going to the bathroom outside results in praise. This will mitigate the amount of accidents your puppy has before he is completely comfortable in his crate. If you happen to catch your dog resting on that supercomfy bed you put in the crate, tell her what a good dog she is and drop a treat in with her. Getting used to the crate takes time and patience, and the more excited you seem about the crate, the more excited your dog will become.
If he does not give up, take him outside quickly and matter-of-factly to eliminate, and then return the dog to the crate. Then give the command to leave the crate and give your dog another treat when he comes out. Make sure to give your dog play and bathroom breaks in between, and build up to an hour of crate time for your dog. He says that, in the wikiHow community, the fusion of friendly people with an ideology of knowledge philanthropy gives him a sense of belonging, a desire to stay connected and keep growing the project.
Adult dogs can wait longer, but if they are not housebroken, you may want to follow this guideline even for an older dog. This goes against the main principle of crate training, which is to create strong links between pleasant things and the crate. When he notices those good smells floating out of the crate, he’ll likely try to reach the source. If you brought your new puppy home on Friday afternoon, don’t introduce him to his crate right before you leave for work on Monday morning. Some dogs settle right in, but for others the transition to a closed door can be a big deal.You can help make the process easy by choosing a time when your dog is relaxed after vigorous exercise and has a reason to stay in the crate for a few minutes anyway. If your dog’s inclined to chew his bed, get a chew-resistant bed, give it some competition from safe, chewable toys, or use rags and old sheets that your dog can destroy without giving you an aneurysm. You can move it from place to place, or for that matter have multiple crates if your house is all that big.
Once your dog loves his crate, it can be his remote hideout when he needs one, but his first lesson shouldn’t be that crate = social isolation. Slow and steady will always win the skittish-dog crate-training race.For many dogs, though, crate training goes 1-2-3. We set up his crate, we brought him home, we tired him out, and then we popped him in to sleep. His first few nights away from his mother and litter, we took turns sleeping next to the crate with one hand resting just inside the door. As always, you’ll say the cue just before your dog does the relevant behavior, and only at that time. Dogs with this disorder may bloody their paws and break their teeth trying to escape.Crate AbuseCrates look like cages. But accepting confinement comfortably is a useful skill for any animal living in the human world.On the other hand, crates can easily be abused. The rambunctious, pushy, destructive dog who’s spending 18 hours crated out of every 24 needs exercise, training, and company.

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Comments »

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