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Category: Dog Training Courses | Author: admin 03.03.2014
If none of the home remedies seem to be helping, a strong commercial cleaner, designed specifically for removing dog urine smells, may be needed. Once the process of removing the dog urine smell is complete, care should be taken to prevent a recurrence of accidents.
Dogs may wet in the house because of a medical condition or simply because the owner wasn’t available to let the dog go outside. When the dog smells the repellent, it will want to avoid that area which should break the habit of urinating in the same spot. A veterinarian can determine if a dog is suffering from a medical condition, such as incontinence or a bladder infection. Dogs that soil the home continuously or intermittently from the time they were first obtained may not have been properly house trained. Cleansers containing live bacteria and enzymes will actually digest the odor-causing bacteria in dog urine and can work more effectively than other cleaners.
Removing a dog urine smell takes effort, but with a few specific cleansers, a home can be rid of that unpleasant odor for good. In most cases, both excitement and fear or submission are present in dogs that exhibit this behavior. In fact, if you have an adult dog that begins to urinate in the home, or a puppy with a refractory house soiling problem, then a medical evaluation is indicated.
For dogs that are urinating in the home, monitor how much your pet drinks, how often your pet urinates and where your pet is soiling. Dogs that urinate more frequently or have discomfort when urinating might have a bladder infection or bladder stones. A puddle of urine where your dog has been napping or sleeping may indicate incontinence, while urine leaking when the dog is excited or frightened might indicate conflict induced urination.

Dogs with brain diseases including cognitive dysfunction may eliminate with no particular pattern, as they may be unable to remember their house training rules. For dogs that are passing stools in the home, monitor your dog's eating and elimination habits to determine if stool frequency has changed (less often, more often, less regular); whether stool consistency has changed (hard, soft, diarrhea, mucus or blood in the stool), whether your dog appears to have less control (sudden urge to eliminate), whether the stool passing appears to be painful, whether stool volume has changed (constipation versus large amounts) or lacks awareness of its elimination (fecal incontinence, with stool dropping out while walking or lying down). If your dog was previously trained prior to soiling, the cause of the problem and the best methods to manage the soiling will need to be determined by evaluating the history.
Details about the home, schedule and house training techniques to date (and the dog's response) will be required.
However, even if house-soiling dogs are retrained to eliminate outdoors, indoor sites may continue to be used, since the odor, substrate, and learned habit may continue to attract the dog back to the location. In addition, dogs that eliminate indoors are in essence, performing a self-rewarding behavior, since they relieve themselves and do not perceive that the area they have used is inappropriate. Dogs that eliminate indoors are in essence performing a self-rewarding behavior because they relieve themselves and do not perceive that the area they have used is inappropriate.
Prevent access to any sites where the dog might eliminate indoors except when you are directly supervising. Accompany the dog to its appropriate elimination areas at times when elimination is necessary. Reinforce the acceptable behavior with lavish praise or food rewards when the dog eliminates in the designated area. If a word cue is used prior to each elimination-reward sequence, the dog may soon learn to eliminate on command.
If you have trouble keeping the dog in sight, leave a remote indoor leash attached to the dog. This leash can also be used to deter any elimination or pre-elimination behaviors (such as sniffing, circling or squatting) in the act and to direct the dog to the appropriate area without delay.

Whenever you are not available to supervise, the dog should be housed in either a confinement area where it does not eliminate (such as a bedroom, crate, or pen), or in an area where elimination is allowed (such as a dog run, papered pen or room, or outdoors). If the confinement area also serves as the dog's bed and play area the dog is likely to keep the area clean. If the dog is anxious about being separated from the owner (separation anxiety) or confined it is likely to soil the area and become even more distressed. While this can be overcome with training techniques, it may be better to confine these dogs to a room where the dog would normally play or eat, or to an area or room where the dog naps and sleeps. Your dog must never be allowed access to indoor sites where it has previously eliminated unless you are there to supervise. If the dog has reduced control due to its physical health, scheduling changes may need to be made. If the owner cannot accommodate the dog's decreased control, installing a doggy door or providing a papered area may be necessary.
If the elimination takes place when the owner is gone, or the dog is prevented from being near the owner, separation anxiety should be considered.
Dogs with separation anxiety generally do not feel comfortable if separated from their owners and may begin to pace, circle, bark, whine, or display other signs of anxiety as the owner prepares to leave. Dogs with separation anxiety may urinate or defecate shortly after the owner departs, even if they have just recently eliminated outdoors.
If the house soiling dog exhibits separation anxiety, treatment should be directed not only at reestablishing proper elimination habits (see above), but also at the underlying separation anxiety.

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