Being a novice to photography I have found the wildlife part 1 tutorial very helpful, but where do I find part 2. Get TrustedReviews' award-winning reviews, opinions and advice delivered to your inbox for free!
Another option is to use a teleconverter, on a 300mm lens, however keep in mind teleconverters are not compatible with all lenses and they reduce the light allowed to the sensor–meaning your shutter speed will suffer.
However, cropped bodies provide a HUGE advantage for telephoto lenses, which is what we need for bird photography. By choosing the Rebel T1i over the T2i or more expensive body, you save a few hundred dollars. You should be able to use the information given here to match your budget to what you want. Set up a birdfeeder and a birdbath — even a squirrel feeder (but stay away from any tiger feeders), and photograph them from physically much closer and near your home. There are advantages and differences in camera bodies, but in this case your lens is your primary concern.
Cropped sensor bodies effectively increase the focal length (more zoom) on lenses because of differences in placement of the sensor and the lens in their design.
It is a decent lens and is a good budget choice for regular usage (portraits, family, landscape etc) but will NOT be useful for wildlife photography. If at all possible, I would certainly recommend choosing one of the $1000 range lenses recommended here.


If you have any questions, comments, or would like to add your own opinions, please leave a comment. My weapon of choice is my trusty Pentax K-7, which is a good camera for wildlife photography thanks to its weatherproofed body and extremely quiet shutter action.
At this point in time, the only real competitors are Nikon and Canon for quality, variety, and value.
For bird and critter photography with, say a 75-300mm zoom lens, you would almost always be 100% zoomed anyway. For telephoto photography on a budget, I can only recommend cropped DSLR bodies for this reason.
If you decide to go cheaper, I guarantee you will be frustrated and fighting with many blurry shots that are not quite zoomed in as much as you would like. A good telephoto or long zoom lens is obviously essential, preferably in the range of 300-500mm.The kind of super-fast zoom and telephoto lenses used by professionals cost many thousands of pounds, making them prohibitively expensive for most amateurs, but you should be able to get a basic 55-300mm zoom lens for your system for not much more than ?200. A higher Mega-pixel resolution will allow you to do larger prints and more cropping, which is important. If you decide to purchase one of the products listed here from Amazon (which generally offers the cheapest prices), please click on the link in this article that will take you to Amazon.
On an APS-C camera the crop factor makes the top end of these lenses equivalent to 450mm, plenty long enough for good wildlife shots. Full frame DSLR bodies (such as the Canon 5D) are more expensive and generally provide noticeably more detail, even given the same Megapixel count.


You may want to start with the cheap lens just to see if you enjoy spending time doing this and are willing to make the full investment. If you then purchase without closing your browser it will help support this site and more articles like this.
While they can't match the fast maximum aperture of professional equipment they are perfectly adequate in good light.
You can spot them by the narrow depth of field and tell-tale ring-shaped bokeh of the foreground and background detail.While a DSLR is obviously the best choice you can get good wildlife photos with almost any type of digital camera. Many superzoom cameras have focal lengths equivalent to over 400mm, and with image stabilisation and very high resolutions they can be surprisingly good for wildlife photography. They have the additional advantage of being much lighter and more portable than a DSLR kit, an important consideration when you may have to carry your gear several miles over open countryside.Owners of compact cameras can also get in on the action, thanks to a sub-category of wildlife photography known as “digiscoping”. They are powerful prismatic telescopes that look like one half of a big pair of binoculars, and are usually used on a tripod. There are several mounts available that allow compact cameras to be attached to the spotting scope pointing into the eyepiece, effectively using the scope as a powerful telephoto lens.




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Comments to «Wildlife photography equipment for beginners»

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