Looking at sample wedding photos can help inspire you to either capture great photos yourself, or even assist you in coming up with some must-have shots that you can ask your hired photographer to capture. It’s easy to get wrapped up in photographing the happy newlyweds and guests but don’t forget to get shots of the little details too. This wedding photo has added interest because the photographer has chosen to shoot from a unique angle.
In addition to the camera being slightly tilted when this photo was captured (another great example of shooting from a different angle for added interest), it also incorporates diagonal lines – by way of the bride’s arms and the horizon – to help pull the eyes of the viewer through the photo. As I mentioned in my post 10 Quick Tips for Capturing the Best Baby Photos Ever, using your camera’s flash can result in harsh unwanted shadows, so turn off your flash and make use of natural light whenever possible. The sample wedding photos shown above illustrate how using interesting props and imaginative poses can make for some awesome shots that are totally worth having printed and framed.
Whether you were the photographer or in the wedding party, what techniques were used to capture your favourite wedding photos?
Posted in Beginner Tips, Composition, Photography Tips & Techniques, Techniques and tagged sample wedding photos, wedding photography techniques, wedding photos gallery on June 5, 2012 by Rhonda Callow.
Flash photography is the use of a camera flash bulb in a variety of possible situations where there doesn’t seem to be enough light. But there are many other situations where the flash could be used, such as using fill-flash when the background is brighter than the subject, using the flash to light up a room and creating better coloring, or using the flash to freeze a moving object in a dark situation.
In typical indoor situations there will probably not be enough light to take a normal hand-held well-exposed photo. In order to take effective indoor flash photos there are some techniques you should keep in mind.
This would normally create somewhat of a silhouette effect, but a fill flash would balance the photo nicely. Many cameras have a red-eye reduction mode where the flash may fire before the picture is taken in order to cause the subjects’ pupils to contract.
A slow sync flash is for more complicated exposures and is used commonly to create blurry long exposures. Many photographers also choose to bounce the flash off a wall or ceiling to get a softer, diffused kind of light commonly sought after for portraits.
Practice using flash in your photos even when it is not necessarily needed and pay attention to your results.
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I'm so excited to announce that my first book, THE I HEART NAPTIME COOKBOOK: 100 easy and delicious recipes to make than less than an hour is now available for PRE-SALE! Hi, I’m Jamielyn!Welcome to my blog.I Heart Naptime is a food and lifestyle blog sharing easy and delicious recipes, tips, crafts and entertaining ideas to help families create unforgettable moments. Here is a look at several excellent wedding photos, along with a description of what makes them so great. Besides the more obvious subjects like wedding rings and flower arrangements, be creative and capture photos of things like dirty feet on the dance floor (after the stilettos have been kicked off) or crumbs from the already devoured wedding cake. Photos can have an entirely different feel to them when they’re shot from a different angle.

The use of leading lines is a compositional technique which helps to draw the eye to the point of interest and can help suggest various feelings within a photo, from dominance and power often portrayed in the use of vertical lines to a feeling of sensuality found in the use of curved lines.
As the name implies, a photographer will shoot photos of the bride in her wedding dress doing things that will essentially destroy the gown – think water, mud, or even paint. For interesting photos, try using natural and manmade structures to frame the bride and groom, such as doorframes, windows, archways, and trees.
If the bride and groom have a shared hobby, try including an object from that hobby in the photos and have them pose as though they are in the middle of their favourite activity.
The most common use of flash photography is group portraits at gatherings where there is not enough light to take a satisfactory exposure. The reason it would come out blurry is because the shutter would be open long enough for any minor hand shake to distort the composition.
When using the flash do not point it directly at a mirror or glass that will create a lens flare or just ruin the photo. Fill flash can be used for sunny day portraits for shadows on a subject’s face or to fill any shaded area that is out of the sunlight. In order for this technique to work, you must be careful to stay in flash range, which is usually around four to ten feet. The red-eye reduction modes in newer cameras are surprisingly effective and many work in different ways to contract pupils.
The flash fires at the beginning of the exposure, but the shutter still stays open for a moment after the flash has fired.
This kind of flash technique requires a flash that can be aimed in a direction that the camera is not pointed.
The best way to become better at flash photography is to analyze your photos and try to figure out what you could have done differently in order to create a better flash-filled exposure. Discover how to use facial recognition and what lighting techniques should be used to enhance your subject.
There are many stunning images and easy to follow charts that will demonstrate what to look for and how to do it.
I loved adding all of the embellishments, using fancy scissors on the patterned papers, being over run with ridiculous amount of ribbon and adhesives, and having a lasting document to chronical what I valued as our most important family moments. Like the image above, you can create a photo collage in order to pull all the little details together to tell a wonderful story within a single print. From laying on the ground and looking up at your subjects to standing on the top of a table to capture your photo from a bird’s-eye view, try to get photos from a variety of positions for some interesting shots.
Some of the best wedding photos are those that show genuine smiles and laughter: something that cannot be rehearsed. The use of a tripod or higher ISO (or faster film) will probably be needed but many of us do not regularly carry a tripod. With common cameras, in order to add fill flash to a photo, just toggle the flash to go off when it normally would not be needed. It takes practice to refine this technique but many professionals come to use this method almost exclusively.
If the bride you’re photographing isn’t into the idea of destroying her expensive dress, you can still be creative in your choice of locations. You can spend as much money as you want for waterfall photography but purchases I find essential are a tripod, circular polariser and a camera (No way really?). Try to make sure your main subjects are about the same distance away from the flash as each other or some that are closer to the flash will appear brighter than ones that are farther away. Or the slow sync flash could capture a sunset and freeze a closer subject that is moving through the frame. For example, my very own wedding album includes photos of me and my husband in line at Tim Hortons and of me sipping from an Iced Capp (nothing says Canadian more than that!). Or you may just want to cast light on certain objects in a lighted room that appears too dark for an exposure.
In a backlit situation there will be a lot of light in the background but no or little light cast on the front of the subject.

There are countless situations where a slow sync flash could possibly be used to enhance an exposure.
I also have some fun wedding photos where I’m “hitchhiking” on a busy Esquimalt road with my dress hiked up to show a little leg. There are also other versions of the sync flash such as the rear sync flash (where the flash fires at the end of an exposure) or the stroboscopic flash (where the flash fires multiple times throughout an exposure). The weather sealing of the duo make them perfect for waterfall conditions where your camera may be exposed to spray from the waterfall.
You can pick yourself up one and use it for other things too such as minimising reflections from the windows on cars or buildings. If you’re shooting with an ultra wide lens then be careful not to purchase the cheapest filter out there as you will run into vignetting issues. Instead something like this Hoya HD2 filter is a great purchase (pity about the price though…!)Below are examples of images captured with and without the circular polariser. It’s not the best example but the big difference where the glare is reduced around the key rock to the right of the frame.
Circular Polariser – No FilterNeutral Density FilterUsing a neutral density filter is a useful tool for obtaining a longer exposure time. Again if you had a base reading of 1 second without a filter applied, attaching the 4 stop neutral density filter would result in a reading of 15 seconds.
Without going overboard this Hoya 4x (0.6) ND filter is ideal for waterfall photography and will allow you to capture shutter speeds slow enough without over doing it. Most photographers are quite content on shooting from the water’s edge so this is an easy way to get something different from the norm. A recent trip photographing waterfalls I was ankle-deep in water and took one step and was suddenly waist deep in water. They’re a market leader and I personally recommend the cheaper more affordable range as opposed to dropping some considerable money on a carbon tripod. Longer shutter speeds can be achieved by using a low ISO setting, shooting at a relatively high f-stop (f.16-32) or by introducing filters such as neutral density filters or circular polarisers (as soon discussed).So what impact does shutter speed have when taking photographs of waterfalls?
To help you understand how shutter speed is helpful for waterfall photography, I’ve created a gif of three scenes that run through the various shutter speeds. The images all have one thing in common in which the water gradually moves from a rough texture to a nice smooth effect. Personally I try to hover around the 2-10 second mark.Why?Any longer and you begin to introduce blur around the foliage area if there is a slight breeze on the day. Normally I look for a mossy rock and focus the camera on that feature while retaining the background in focus also. You can see what I’m referring to by looking at the above shutter speed comparison clips. This technique is heavily inspired by the late (and amazing) landscape photographer Peter Dombrovskis. This is how I like to compose my landscape photography but don’t feel constrained to this technique. 30 seconds) but more around the 1-2 second mark.At this point I want to increase the shutter speed for a longer exposure. I do this by increasing the f-stop to f.16 and decreasing the ISO from 100 to 50 which now gives me a more ideal exposure time.Why do I shoot in aperture priority and not manual after taking a base reading? Originally from Tasmania, I moved to Melbourne in January 2011 and have since been shooting urban and seascape long exposures around Victoria.

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Comments to «Tips photography fireworks»

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  4. ILQAR_909 on 25.03.2016 at 22:55:53
    The totally different shutter speeds that can show difference objects are going to be shot.