Looking at sample wedding photos can help inspire you to either capture great photos yourself, or even assist you in coming up with some must-have shots that you can ask your hired photographer to capture.
It’s easy to get wrapped up in photographing the happy newlyweds and guests but don’t forget to get shots of the little details too.
This wedding photo has added interest because the photographer has chosen to shoot from a unique angle.
In addition to the camera being slightly tilted when this photo was captured (another great example of shooting from a different angle for added interest), it also incorporates diagonal lines – by way of the bride’s arms and the horizon – to help pull the eyes of the viewer through the photo. As I mentioned in my post 10 Quick Tips for Capturing the Best Baby Photos Ever, using your camera’s flash can result in harsh unwanted shadows, so turn off your flash and make use of natural light whenever possible. The sample wedding photos shown above illustrate how using interesting props and imaginative poses can make for some awesome shots that are totally worth having printed and framed. Whether you were the photographer or in the wedding party, what techniques were used to capture your favourite wedding photos? Posted in Beginner Tips, Composition, Photography Tips & Techniques, Techniques and tagged sample wedding photos, wedding photography techniques, wedding photos gallery on June 5, 2012 by Rhonda Callow. Flash photography is the use of a camera flash bulb in a variety of possible situations where there doesn’t seem to be enough light. But there are many other situations where the flash could be used, such as using fill-flash when the background is brighter than the subject, using the flash to light up a room and creating better coloring, or using the flash to freeze a moving object in a dark situation. In typical indoor situations there will probably not be enough light to take a normal hand-held well-exposed photo.
In order to take effective indoor flash photos there are some techniques you should keep in mind.
This would normally create somewhat of a silhouette effect, but a fill flash would balance the photo nicely. Many cameras have a red-eye reduction mode where the flash may fire before the picture is taken in order to cause the subjects’ pupils to contract.
A slow sync flash is for more complicated exposures and is used commonly to create blurry long exposures.
Many photographers also choose to bounce the flash off a wall or ceiling to get a softer, diffused kind of light commonly sought after for portraits. Practice using flash in your photos even when it is not necessarily needed and pay attention to your results. We are always looking for more interesting and insightful photography tips and techniques to share with our readers.
Ever since I attended Food Blog Forum last April my food photography has improved times 100! Last year, while attending Food Blog Forum I had the opportunity to attend a private class with the amazing Helene Dujardin.
I’ve been getting kind comments and emails complementing my food photography over the past few months, and I sincerely appreciate it! Taylor–you need to try to find a shaded area in your home or a window that has lots of light that comes through. Thanks Sandra–I’m hoping to add a new food photography tips and tricks post sometime this year! Wayne Radford has compiled his extensive experience and vast knowledge into over 126 pages and practical including inspiring images and relevant and informative charts. In this eBook you will learn how to simplify and fine tune the essentials for quality portraiture. Also chapters on window lighting, subtractive lighting, how to find suitable locations, plus techniques for exposure and composition. Portrait Tips and Techniques is suitable for advanced DSLR enthusiasts and professionals wishing to fine tune their portraiture or develop a new style. Portrait Tips and Techniques is a downloadable PDF file, which can be viewed on a number of devices a€“ laptop and desktop computers, iPhone or Android devices, iPads, and other tablets. For best results please download to a desktop or laptop then transfer to a mobile device or tablet - we recommend GoodReader as a PDF reader for iPads.
After eyes and lips the third most important thing to consider is your subject’s hair.
Remember these tips are valid when photographing all people and not just models, in fact ordinary people tend to have more dis-symmetrical features and paying attention to these tips will give more results rather than when photographing professional models who might only have slight variations.
Creative photographer, Web publisher, Diy fan, Avid traveler and a Nature Conservationist to the core. Here is a look at several excellent wedding photos, along with a description of what makes them so great. Besides the more obvious subjects like wedding rings and flower arrangements, be creative and capture photos of things like dirty feet on the dance floor (after the stilettos have been kicked off) or crumbs from the already devoured wedding cake. Photos can have an entirely different feel to them when they’re shot from a different angle. The use of leading lines is a compositional technique which helps to draw the eye to the point of interest and can help suggest various feelings within a photo, from dominance and power often portrayed in the use of vertical lines to a feeling of sensuality found in the use of curved lines. As the name implies, a photographer will shoot photos of the bride in her wedding dress doing things that will essentially destroy the gown – think water, mud, or even paint. For interesting photos, try using natural and manmade structures to frame the bride and groom, such as doorframes, windows, archways, and trees. If the bride and groom have a shared hobby, try including an object from that hobby in the photos and have them pose as though they are in the middle of their favourite activity.


The most common use of flash photography is group portraits at gatherings where there is not enough light to take a satisfactory exposure.
The reason it would come out blurry is because the shutter would be open long enough for any minor hand shake to distort the composition.
When using the flash do not point it directly at a mirror or glass that will create a lens flare or just ruin the photo.
Fill flash can be used for sunny day portraits for shadows on a subject’s face or to fill any shaded area that is out of the sunlight. In order for this technique to work, you must be careful to stay in flash range, which is usually around four to ten feet. The red-eye reduction modes in newer cameras are surprisingly effective and many work in different ways to contract pupils.
The flash fires at the beginning of the exposure, but the shutter still stays open for a moment after the flash has fired. This kind of flash technique requires a flash that can be aimed in a direction that the camera is not pointed. The best way to become better at flash photography is to analyze your photos and try to figure out what you could have done differently in order to create a better flash-filled exposure.
I played around with the times of day and found that the best time for me to photograph my food during the summer months were at 7pm and by 7:45 my lighting opportunities were quickly fading away.
As you can tell from the picture above you would never imagine it to be inside a tent with uneven boards!?!!? For inspiration I’ll look at various food magazines to give myself better ideas of how to setup a photo.
I propped my french oven up on a towel so that it was tilting toward the camera (I realize some of the liquid shifted because of this).
If this means you need to use chopsticks or your bare hands to move around pieces of food so that they look more appealing to the eye–do so! I am putting together a compilation post of Food Photography resources for my blog, and I think this a post that would really resonate with my readers.
Discover how to use facial recognition and what lighting techniques should be used to enhance your subject. There are many stunning images and easy to follow charts that will demonstrate what to look for and how to do it. Observe closely, also when a person smiles or when expressions change the facial features appear different so ask the model to simply cycle through a series of looks and expressions and study the changes. Like the image above, you can create a photo collage in order to pull all the little details together to tell a wonderful story within a single print. From laying on the ground and looking up at your subjects to standing on the top of a table to capture your photo from a bird’s-eye view, try to get photos from a variety of positions for some interesting shots.
Some of the best wedding photos are those that show genuine smiles and laughter: something that cannot be rehearsed. The use of a tripod or higher ISO (or faster film) will probably be needed but many of us do not regularly carry a tripod. With common cameras, in order to add fill flash to a photo, just toggle the flash to go off when it normally would not be needed. It takes practice to refine this technique but many professionals come to use this method almost exclusively.
Until you start taking the time to photograph your food that’s when you realize how difficult food photography is. Thankfully, my handy husband has already trimmed, glued, and nailed the boards together, and is working on a few more table top finishes for me. Because the curry had just came off the stove top I moved it with oven mitts (hence the oven mitts near the lamp). I was wondering if I could get permission to use one of your images in the post (along with appropriate attribution) along with my links to this article.
Yes, you may use a photo> I really need to do an updated post since my food photography has improved so much! I wrote this post over 2 years ago and need to do a follow up of what I’ve now learned. Let us discuss some tips that will help you choose the best angle from which to shoot your subject. The side which looks best should be the one that is placed nearer to the light and closer to the camera. If so then pose your model so as to turn the part away from the camera thus more coifs and less scalp will be visible in your frame. If the bride you’re photographing isn’t into the idea of destroying her expensive dress, you can still be creative in your choice of locations. Try to make sure your main subjects are about the same distance away from the flash as each other or some that are closer to the flash will appear brighter than ones that are farther away.
Or the slow sync flash could capture a sunset and freeze a closer subject that is moving through the frame. I would get home from work, quickly cook dinner, then photograph whatever I cooked that evening and if I had other food to photograph I would then photograph it at that time. You are so right–people have no idea how difficult it is to photograph food and make it look great! You are definitely doing it right by stepping outside and allow for the best light possible.


You can spend as much money as you want for waterfall photography but purchases I find essential are a tripod, circular polariser and a camera (No way really?). Also if the hair covers more of the models ear on one side rather than the other then it is your subject’s good side. For example, my very own wedding album includes photos of me and my husband in line at Tim Hortons and of me sipping from an Iced Capp (nothing says Canadian more than that!). Or you may just want to cast light on certain objects in a lighted room that appears too dark for an exposure. In a backlit situation there will be a lot of light in the background but no or little light cast on the front of the subject. There are countless situations where a slow sync flash could possibly be used to enhance an exposure. We never use cloth napkins in my house, so I had to go out and buy a few cloth napkins for food photography. I also have some fun wedding photos where I’m “hitchhiking” on a busy Esquimalt road with my dress hiked up to show a little leg. There are also other versions of the sync flash such as the rear sync flash (where the flash fires at the end of an exposure) or the stroboscopic flash (where the flash fires multiple times throughout an exposure). My food was no longer cold from picture taking (I know those of you who blog about recipes can relate to this)!
If you can make an extra plate of food and photograph it after dinner or the next day it takes less pressure off of you. I would make an extra serving for my photos, and if I didn’t have time that night to photograph it I would pack it up in individual containers (a trick I learned from Jessica, The Novice Chef) and photograph it the next day.
I also highly suggest you buy the book Plate to Pixel–great food photography resource! You could even spend a few dollars on a white foam board to help bounce light off the dark areas. The weather sealing of the duo make them perfect for waterfall conditions where your camera may be exposed to spray from the waterfall.
Maybe I was a bit intimidated by the large black bag that had all the tools I’d need to create an almost perfect photo.
You can pick yourself up one and use it for other things too such as minimising reflections from the windows on cars or buildings. If you’re shooting with an ultra wide lens then be careful not to purchase the cheapest filter out there as you will run into vignetting issues. Instead something like this Hoya HD2 filter is a great purchase (pity about the price though…!)Below are examples of images captured with and without the circular polariser.
It’s not the best example but the big difference where the glare is reduced around the key rock to the right of the frame. Circular Polariser – No FilterNeutral Density FilterUsing a neutral density filter is a useful tool for obtaining a longer exposure time.
Again if you had a base reading of 1 second without a filter applied, attaching the 4 stop neutral density filter would result in a reading of 15 seconds.
Without going overboard this Hoya 4x (0.6) ND filter is ideal for waterfall photography and will allow you to capture shutter speeds slow enough without over doing it. Most photographers are quite content on shooting from the water’s edge so this is an easy way to get something different from the norm.
A recent trip photographing waterfalls I was ankle-deep in water and took one step and was suddenly waist deep in water. They’re a market leader and I personally recommend the cheaper more affordable range as opposed to dropping some considerable money on a carbon tripod. Longer shutter speeds can be achieved by using a low ISO setting, shooting at a relatively high f-stop (f.16-32) or by introducing filters such as neutral density filters or circular polarisers (as soon discussed).So what impact does shutter speed have when taking photographs of waterfalls? To help you understand how shutter speed is helpful for waterfall photography, I’ve created a gif of three scenes that run through the various shutter speeds.
The images all have one thing in common in which the water gradually moves from a rough texture to a nice smooth effect.
Personally I try to hover around the 2-10 second mark.Why?Any longer and you begin to introduce blur around the foliage area if there is a slight breeze on the day. Normally I look for a mossy rock and focus the camera on that feature while retaining the background in focus also.
You can see what I’m referring to by looking at the above shutter speed comparison clips. This technique is heavily inspired by the late (and amazing) landscape photographer Peter Dombrovskis.
This is how I like to compose my landscape photography but don’t feel constrained to this technique. 30 seconds) but more around the 1-2 second mark.At this point I want to increase the shutter speed for a longer exposure. I do this by increasing the f-stop to f.16 and decreasing the ISO from 100 to 50 which now gives me a more ideal exposure time.Why do I shoot in aperture priority and not manual after taking a base reading?
Originally from Tasmania, I moved to Melbourne in January 2011 and have since been shooting urban and seascape long exposures around Victoria.



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