There has been much discussion about the new D600 and D800 cameras with regard to capturing birds in flight. I use the 300mm F4 prime since it is extremely lightweight, very portable, and easily works with the handheld style of shooting. I always have one of the TCs attached to the 300mm F4 prime, since my subjects require at least 400mm reach for a reasonable shot.
The D600 is good enough to capture quite a few fast moving birds, including Peregrine Falcons and Merlins.
I recently acquired a D800 body hoping for a better AF tracking system and higher image resolution. I think they whine about the amount of computer power and memory they DON”T have and blame their outdated computer on the D800.
But beyond that, you still have different speeds within the various RAM and video card options that will also impact your overall system speed as well as hard drive read and write speeds (usually if these are halfway decent, they aren’t the bottleneck, but it does happen). And finally, people thought 12 MP was too much unless you were printing really large images.
Just my two cents (and personal preference), some shots are better a frame or two early or late.
Here’s my question: Why should Jiayi measure him or herself against shots posted on some other website? What is the benefit for Jiayi and Jiayi’s creative quest to be running to other sites and trying to live up to someone else’s idea of what a bird photo should be? Given how much the images were downsampled for web display I hardly expect to see fine feather detail in the pics posted in this article. Well for starters you have to be in DX mode and then you have to use AA’s or an EN-EL18 to get the 6fps.
Heck even 6 vs 4 fps is not the big of a difference anyway, especially if you are good at timing and not using the FPS as a crutch to cover up you lack of skill. Have to say the quality of these images is pretty poor considering they come from the D800!
Latest Nikon Bridge Camera model Coolpix p600 is amazing awesome and now in Bangladesh by me. Lenses that are in the 400-600mm range are considered true bird lenses and there are many choices available in this range.Then the range of 800-1000mm lenses are the large and heavy lenses where transporting the lens is a serious undertaking.


Most lenses produce their sharpest when they are stopped down 2 or 3 f-stops from their maximum aperture. The best prices for bird lenses are going to be found when you look at used camera equipment.
Since I use both of these camera bodies regularly, I thought I could provide some useful insight into how these cameras perform when faced with unpredictable, moving subjects. With the new D600 and D800 bodies that can autofocus up to F8, I typically use the 1.7x TC to get a 510mm effective reach on the full frame bodies. All my shots are done in the wild, the tags on some of the birds are done by raptor biologists every season at Peregrine nests. In theory, the 4 FPS burst rate might be too slow for wildlife, but in practice it has not been an issue for me so far. You really feel the difference in initial target acquisition when using the D800 vs the D600.
I use the D600 if I want something a bit lighter, but the D800 is now my body of choice for more demanding situations. My computer is fast enough for everything, and I have storage for more HD movies that I’ll ever watch.
No I prefer to stay full frame all the time since I get more versatility if I need to crop. I believe the most impressive attributes you show are how sharp your shots are shooting handheld and not utilizing a VR telephoto lens.
You might get better AF-opperation due to the shorter black-out time when the mirror is up and your AF is blind.
In particular, the photographers on those two sites have created their own, very rigid ideas of what a bird photograph should be.
Learning how to photograph images of birds that convey their personality, behaviors and traits can be readily accomplished with tenacious patience in the field and honing your skills. It is the latest model of Nikon Bridge Camera perfect for indoor outdoor distance everything shooting. Overall, I will say the D600 is a fantastic and lightweight wildlife camera with great image quality.
The D800 employs the Multi-CAM 3500FX system which should deliver better results than that of the D600.


Also, the AF system has a much better hit rate from a continuous set of 4 frames for one burst compared to the D600.
There’s simply no substitute for premium long glass, or getting closer to the subject to compensate.
Gota admit the focus speed for this combo is abit on the slow side to shoot flying birds, but it works great for stationary bird shooting. There are heated arguments on whether the AF points for the D600 are spread out well enough for various shooting conditions.
Just like in my D600 setup, I use the center point for targeting my subjects, but I found that I could also use the additional 9 points surrounding the center point on the D800 with decent results.
If some people are whining about it, I think it’s mostly due to the psychology that seems to be pervasive on the internet.
I take images of family, friends etc, anywhere we go when out and about but want one mainly for taking images of wild animals, birds etc. The focus speed is however, very workable without the TC, but this limits the range to 300mm, I have get to try the 1.4 TC.
For my shots it is a lot simpler: I always only use the center AF cross type point, no other points are used so the spread of the points does not really impact my shots. It works decently for horizontally moving subjects but when you have a head on shot of a bird in flight, it often gets confused and misses quite frequently.
I have tried changing the spread of my AF points and toggling the different modes with worse results so I stuck with the center point as my default. Feel free to contact me on Flickr if you have any further questions regarding the shots and thank you for reading the post.
The interesting thing about the AF system on the D600 for an incoming subject is that in good light, the system manages to lock on to the subject decently before the first shot is taken. Higher end cameras like the Canon 5D Mark III  have flucs adjustment calibrations that you can perform. After the first shot is fired, the AF system might start hunting when faced with the erratically moving subject so it mis-focuses quite a bit.



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