Today you will learn top 10 tips that will help you capture amazing photographs of birds in flight. Photographing birds in flight is one of the most popular and debated topic because of the lens choice. Many of the beginners are under the impression that you rather need atleast 400mm lens and above to get bird photograph. If you have read my free eBook “15 Incredible Bird Photography Tips for Beginners”, you should already be aware that my first landing bird photograph was with 18-55mm! Possessing an 800mm lens not having these 3 Ps and above all the Passion, then you just have most expensive lens. If you love my photographs in this article, then be rest assured that you will be making similar or better photographs by following these tips. Aperture Priority – In this mode, you just have to care about aperture or Depth of Field (DOF) and nothing else! Shutter Priority – If Aperture priority is not giving you enough shutter speed to freeze the action OR to blur the action, then choose shutter priority. Spot Metering – In flight photography, bird is usually not filling the frame making the background consume fair amount of frame area. If you do not give time for Camera to achieve focus, which generally happens in split second, then you are bound to lose all shots.
If a bird is flying sideways to you, then upward wings position is more desirable compared to the downward wings position. Strive for getting photographs of birds in flight in some background which is not cluttered or plain white or pale blue. It may sound obvious that the concepts are same as that for flight photographs, but it is a different ball game.
The birds usually flap their wings much faster as they just land, which means you should have already achieved focus. You can learn details on Lighting in my free eBook “15 Incredible Bird Photography Tips for Beginners”.
If the bird occupies less than 25% space in the frame, then you can use evaluative or matrix metering mode since you will get the exposure very close to the background. First and foremost, take the very idea out of your mind now, that you will become successful bird photographer only if you take photographs of magnificent or rare birds in flight. Also, never underestimate photographing flights of common birds like ducks, geese, gulls, etc. My aim is motivate all the budding photographers to push themselves as much as they can with their existing lenses, rather than day dreaming about getting longer telephoto lens. The real need for longer telephoto lens should be driven only when you really understand the passion to pursue bird photography. It may seem daunting at first, but macro photography really isn’t so different from other kinds once you get a graps of the basics.
For more advice on shooting creepy-crawlies, have a read of our macro photography tips for shooting insects – or check out our main macro photography hub to learn even more. A 50-60mm lens is suitable for general macro work but if you want greater subject-to-lens distance a 100mm lens will give you this at a price. For creatures like butterflies and dragonflies, lens-to-subject distance becomes even more important so focal length needs to be greater. The 150-200mm range is the most expensive, but you will appreciate the extra power when stalking flighty subjects like this Gatekeeper butterfly.
Extension tubes fit between the rear mount of the lens and the camera body to make the lens focus closer and therefore produce a much bigger image of a small subject. This image of a thick-legged flower beetle was shot with an 18-200mm zoom lens and a 20mm extension tube added. These filters screw into the front element thread and can provide an inexpensive alternative to splashing out on a pukka macro lens.

The golden ringed dragonfly shown here was shot on a Lumix FZ30 camera with a +3 dioptre added to the front element. One advantage of the latter option is that any out-of-focus highlights will show as circle-like bubbles that can look very attractive. In this composite shot of a sycamore leaf, both images were exposed for natural light; however, the bottom image was given a blip of off-camera fill-in flash and the shutter speed was increased by one stop in order to darken the background. Although we can crop things using software later, it is best to fine-tune composition in-camera at the time of shooting as much as possible.
With close-up pattern details, ensure they either fill the frame completely so that there are no gaps around the edges.
It is imperative to consider the actual point of focus when working close-up with tiny subjects. These two shots of the same teasle head were both shot at the same maximum aperture, but the point of focus was changed by a couple of millimetres to produce an entirely different effect. Tidy up any unwanted debris in the scene and make sure that your composition concentrates on your subject as intended. After rain can be an excellent time to search for macro subjects when everything is dripping with droplets of rain water. Go in close to show how the raindrops act as miniature lenses, magnifying the veins in leaves. They were printed to A3 on matt paper so there was less risk of reflection when placed behind the subject, especially if a mirror or flashgun was to be used to expose the image. With small but lively subjects like butterflies, it can be difficult getting close enough to them for frame-filling shots. AP speaks to Mr Kazuto Yamaki in an exclusive interview held at the company's headquarters in Aizu, Japan.
Award winning photographer Stan Raucher talks to us about his recent project, travelling the world's metro systems to capture candid moments of everyday life that reflect the human condition. In AP 13 August we speak to top pros about how they set up their autofocus for various genres of photography. AProbably the mode most widely used by professional photographers, Aperture Priority is one of my personal favorites, and I believe that it will quickly become one of yours. Select your ISO by pressing and holding the ISO button on the back left of the camera while rotating the main Command dial with your thumb.
Point the camera at your subject and then activate the camera meter by depressing the shutter button halfway. View the exposure information in the bottom area of the viewfinder or by looking at the top display panel. While the meter is activated, use your finger to roll the Sub-command dial left and right to see the changed exposure values.
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Seems the Nikon d4s is a flagship low light Nikon Dslr today with a very good high iso performance only bettered by slight margin the Nikon Df. Some bird photographers believes only in 400mm and some in 500mm and some in 800mm and so on. By selecting spot metering, you are telling the camera to only meter for the bird so that you can get the perfect exposure. You should track the bird by half pressing the shutter button before you press the shutter like a machine gun.
What is the point of getting 10 photographs which makes you disappointed because of poor focus? Cluttered background distracts the viewer’s attention whereas plain background makes the overall image dull. It is indeed much difficult to photograph takeoff or landing as oppose to just taking a flight photograph.

However, if you never practiced any technique because you are waiting to photograph only magnificent or rare birds, then you are procrastinating. Who knows, you might end up getting the most unique photograph of a common bird which will get noticed everywhere. Although many zoom lenses boast a macro setting, these are usually less than half life-size magnification – true macro, however, begins with 1:1 and nothing less.
This is a much cheaper alternative than buying a macro lens but tubes are more fiddly to use in the field. Aperture Priority mode is also deemed a semiautomatic mode because it allows you to once again control one factor of exposure while the camera adjusts for the other.
I wanted the foreground as well as the background in focus, so I used a wide-angle lens combined with a small aperture to maintain focus throughout the image.
As a general rule, the lower the number on the lens, the “faster” it is (because it allows more light in to expose the image, thus reducing the amount of shutter time) and the sharper the image is. That small opening reduces the amount of incoming light, and this reduction of light requires that the shutter stay open longer.
Roll the dial to the right for a smaller aperture (higher f-stop number) and to the left for a larger aperture (lower f-stop number).
This camera is still very good if someone has not a budget for the other Full Frame models, this modell is an excellent value used. Much cheaper than the Full Frame modells, and has also very good picture quality, it’s pictures very usable even in Iso 6400.
A full spread wings of a bird looks more attractive and more appreciative compared to any other wing position. However, sometimes a slightly blurred background makes it more interesting bird photograph.
The rim light around their wings and their translucent feathers give the bird an angel look. When I got my Canon 100-400mm lens a few years ago, I was able to get far more bird photos than when I had just a 200mm. Depth of field, along with composition, is a major factor in how you direct attention to what matters in your image.
These measurements are defined as “stops” and work incrementally with your shutter speed to determine proper exposure. Typically, fast lenses are heavier and more expensive, but they’re well worth the investment if you find yourself shooting in low-light conditions.
The Nikon d7100 has improved autofocus performance, omit the AA filter as the D800E, Has 24 Mpix resolution which is the smallest pixels from all this models.
The larger the aperture is, the better the exposure without having to increase ISO and introduce digital noise. If you want to isolate a subject from the background, such as when shooting a portrait, you can use a large aperture (low f-stop number) to keep the focus on your subject and make both the foreground and background blurry. Each stop represents about half the amount of light entering the lens iris as the larger stop before it. Both camera has wide dynamic range, excellent high Iso capability, 36 Mpixel resolution, HD video mode.
If you want to keep the entire scene sharply focused, as with a landscape scene, then using a small aperture (high f-stop number) will render the greatest amount of depth of field possible. Today, most lenses don’t have f-stop markings, since all adjustments to this setting are performed via the camera’s electronics.

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