Dirt on camera sensor and lenses could adversely affect the performance of your camera by making focusing difficult, regularly clean both the front and back elements of your lenses and also make sure there is no dust on your sensor for best performance. Cheap low quality filters could reduce the sharpness of your lens, what’s the logic of putting a 10$ filter in front of a 1000$ lens, you will end up with image quality equivalent of a 10$ lens. Ever wondered why there are so many squares and rectangles in the viewfinder well they are all focus points and they are not all the same. Rectangle Focus Points – focus points represented by both horizontal and vertical rectangles are single plane focus points. Square Focus Points – focus points represented by a square are Cross points and they are superior to single points which are represented by rectangles because they work either way (can focus on both vertical and horizontal lines). Use this information to align your subject with the right type of focus point to get fast and accurate focus.
Yes I know it does not make sense, if the camera has 64 focus points why not use them all, will it not help make focusing faster? For example imagine you are trying to shoot a scene with 5 different elements in it; in all point focus mode the camera does not know which one is important to you and will generally focus on the element that is closest to the camera.
Each person’s eye sight is different and so camera manufactures have provided a way to adjust the focus of your cameras eyepiece to match that of your eyesight. Another focusing technique is to manually focus the lens in the general direction so as to get the subject in acceptably sharp and then take auto focus do the precision fine tuning. If manual focusing is not to your liking there is one tip that could help you auto focus better.
Irrespective of the depth of field in an image there is only one point of focus, you can only marginally improve the feel of sharpness by increasing depth of field but it could never substitute good focus.
Camera shake is one other factor that could lead to loss of image sharpness, when shooting stationary subjects the general rule for handholding is to use a shutter speed that is 1 over the focal length of the lens used.
If you are using a lens that has image stabilization feature (IS on Canon or VR on Nikon) turning it on could help you get sharper pictures while shooting handheld.
Focus and sharpness are two entirely different things, it should be understood that you can have a perfectly sharp out of focus picture. Sometimes your equipment could be the real culprit; a particular lens might be consistently focusing a few millimeters in front or behind the intended focus area.
A simple home experiment could tell you whether or not your lens is focusing at the right point or is it off.
Cameras auto focus needs light to work properly and often its lack of enough light that causes issues. Sharpness of an image is determined by a line of contrast; so if your picture is underexposed or have dull lighting, an image will not appear sharp even if the focus and everything else is right. Always check your images for sharpness by zooming in to 100% on your LCD screen; if there is any blur at all it will be visible when zoomed in 100% so you could immediately re-shoot the picture. Focus and Image Sharpness are two of the most important technical aspects in photography which sets apart great photography from mediocre work.
As with learning any topic, students usually learn a tremendous amount of information about a topic for the first while, then they reach a certain level of competency and halt all learning. This post will hopefully enlighten you on a few features that are commonly (but not always) put in DSLR cameras that most photographers don’t know they have.
Oh, and my favorite thing about writing this post is that I just CAN’T WAIT to read the comments.
These are the settings I like so that my preview on the LCD looks closer to what it will look like after post-processing.
However, I was out shooting with Dustin Olsen a few months back and looked at the back of his camera to see how the photos were coming out. Multiple exposure can be pretty fun for creative effects, and it is an oft-overlooked feature on many DSLRs (not all of them have this). Nothing is more annoying when shooting than when the screen constantly turns off while you’re reviewing images on the LCD screen. All DSLRs allow the photographer to adjust how long a photo is displayed before the screen goes to sleep.
Lately, I’ve been experimenting in working with an iPad so when I shoot a photo, it shows up almost immediately on my iPad (wirelessly) so I can see the photos full screen. The use-case for this is when you’re in a pinch and are forced to use that blasted pop-up flash. This feature is somewhat better known among photographers, but still the kind of thing that a lot of photographers don’t notice until they have shot for years. The button is useful because, contrary to popular belief, changing the aperture setting on your camera does not immediately adjust the aperture in the lens. I get SOOO MANY questions about back button focus that I decided this one deserves its own post. About the AuthorJim Harmer Facebook Twitter Google+Jim Harmer is the founder of Improve Photography, and host of the popular Improve Photography Podcast.
Although the Canons don’t have a time lapse mode, they do come with software that allows you to hook the camera up to your computer by USB, and then set up and run time lapses using it. Question: Does the Nikon D5100 have a DOF preview feature (I know it does not have the button)? Actually to do time lapse on Canon EOS cameras there are remote timers available these are basically a cable remote (although there are wireless ones to) with a built in LCD interval timer which fires the shutter at a pre-determined interval which can be from e.g. I know Nikon and Canon are the two most popular brands, but some of us who were poor when we got our first DSLR use other brands … like Olympus.
This article was previously published by SLR Lounge, a photography education and news website created by professional photographers. Nikon D3200 – Learn Photography Everything a budding photographer should learn to make the basics right.
We used the DSLR cam as if it were a point-and-shoot snapshot cam in automatic mode, not knowing about the power of the various manual controls.
By experimenting a bit and reading a few books, I now know more about DSLR photography, and we hope to put this in practice. 12.  Move around and experiment A lot of photographers walk up to a scene and just start shooting.
17.  Consider using Adobe Lightroom Many of you will use Adobe Photoshop for post-processing, which is an excellent choice.
This example is slightly over-processed if you ask me, but it’s only an example to show how much impact post-processing can have. 20.  Metering mode and focus mode This last tip is kind of targetted towards both myself and you. And near about 100% of those who have these issues attribute it to fault in their equipment. Even good quality filters deteriorate over time so make sure the filters you mount on your lens are high quality filters in perfect condition else remove the filter from the lens.

Most cameras have 9 – 11 focus points but recent models are featuring 64 +, the general rule is the more the better. Also keep in mind the actual sensor area covered by a focus point is at least twice as large as the size of the rectangle shown in the viewfinder. The answer is both yes and no, if your intention is to attain focus fast then using all focusing points will certainly help you achieve that. Without a properly calibrated diopter you will not be able to judge whether you subject is in focus or not. You will get both visual and audio confirmation on when focus is locked (depending on camera settings), the shutter will not fire if the camera is unable to achieve focus. This happens because the lens stars to hunt for focus from one end (near or far) and need to travel all the way to the other to actually find the subject. Instead of pressing down the shutter button and keeping it pressed till the lens acquires focus, make it a two stage process, first half click to focus the lens in the general direction, release shutter button and half click again to fine tune and lock focus. However bear in mind that if not used correctly this could cause focus errors due to lens movement (the arc angle) causing the camera to subject distance to shift slightly. This will not be necessary in most cases however you should be aware of this and double check your focus after recomposing.
But many photographers especially the ones who picked up photography in the digital age are very skeptical about this, they will shoot in manual mode if need be but does not entertain the idea of focusing manually. But most photographers are put off from using one due to the extra effort of carrying it with them all the time and the time and effort needed to set up your shot. In such cases most modern cameras have the ability to make an adjustment in the camera to fix the issue. Set camera on a tripod, use the widest aperture allowed by your lens and take a picture of a ruler places at an angle of 45 degrees to the camera.
If your camera has an AF assist beam do enable it, similarly most branded external flash units have an infra red focus assist beam to make focusing easier, so even if you are not using flash you could use it to make focusing easier (turn of flash firing in flash menu). A Multiple exposure means the camera takes 2 or 3 (or more) photos in a row and then combines them to create one picture. A Exposure compensation is when the photographer tells the camera to decide the correct exposure, and then get either brighter or darker depending on what exposure compensation setting the photographer set the camera to. A The camera will determine how much flash output is needed, and then the photographer can set the camera to either give more or less power to the flash according to the look that the photographer is attempting to achieve. A Photographers hate using the pop-up flash because it looks ridiculously ugly since the light is coming from the same angle as the camera and therefore not directional. A Most DSLR cameras have a small black button on the front of the camera just to the left (camera left) of the lens. A These are all on-location videos where you can see how I’m using the color in sunsets, choosing my compositions, etc.
I especially like the feature on my Nikon D7000, interval timer, allowing me to do time lapse without any add on attachments!
I am interested in Multiple exposure, does Canon 60D camera has this feature, if no how can I created the photo. I never even thought to change them either (bc of shooting in RAW) but the sharpness and saturation change is undeniable.
For more education, inspiration, news, and other resources, check out their website and YouTube page.You just bought a DSLR (Digital Single-Lens Reflex Camera) or advanced point-and-shoot camera with DSLR capabilities. It is particularly useful to those who are used to point-and-shoot digicams and now want to take the next step in their photography skills. The fact that some of our pics turned out nicely, says more about the camera than it says about our skills. For beginners like us it basically means that the higher you set your ISO, the more light comes in.
Allow your subject to move Particularly with a zoom lens it is tempting to comes as close as you can, and to barely let the subject fit the frame. The problem with this flash is that it will point directly at your subject and cause hard light with harsh shadows.
If you’re into digital photography for the long run, it is best to choose a single brand and stick with it. Learn more by watching others A very cheap and effective way to learn about photography is to browse through photo sites that display metadata. Do know though, that there is a dedicated, professional-level photo processing application from Adobe as well.
Backups and memory cards It is better to buy a few fast, small memory cards, than a single large one. Again, do not trust me as an expert on this, be sure to read some books from professional photographers.
Although in some instances they are right and the equipment is indeed the culprit; but in majority of the cases it is not the equipment but lack of understanding or improper shooting technique that are causing issues. Remember not all of the focus points could be selected for focusing as some of them function only as assist points.
So horizontal rectangles are to be used for focusing on vertical subjects and vertical rectangles are to be used to focus on horizontal subjects. But if your intention is to focus on the right part of the scene then its better you shift to center focus point only and use the focus point to focus precisely where you want. To make things easier some lenses have a function called focus limiter that allows you to limit the area that the lens need to look for this could speed up things quite a bit. This technique works because it helps minimize problems caused by inertia or slops in mechanics which cause the lens to overshoot the point of focus. This issue is most obvious when shooting macro and for macro photography I suggest you focus manually rather than depending on the cameras auto focus mechanism. But this is not applicable when shooting moving subjects, to capture moving subjects sharp one should either use fast shutter speeds capable of completely freezing the movement or use flash to freeze it. However remember to turn it off when shooting on a tripod else it will influence the picture quality adversely. The camera allows you to enter lens correction data for up to 20 different lenses (depending upon camera model) and when the camera identifies a lens for which the correction data is entered is mounted it sets the focus accordingly so as to get accurate focus.
Alternatively a torch or a head lamp or virtually any light source could be used to throw light on to your subject to focus. Modern DSLR cameras have both RGB and Luminescence histogram to help photographers with exposure decisions.
A When we first get our hands on a camera, we spend every waking second learning how to use it and all the buttons and dials. A Then, the individual frames (usually taken over the course of 30 minutes or more) are combined to create a video like this one.
A If you’re using an all-manual flash like the YN-560 (see my YN-560 review here), then this is entirely irrelevant.

A However, if you use flash compensation, you can control how much flash is used and achieve much better pictures when you’re in a pinch and you need to use flash (like when Aunt Janet hands you her point-and-shoot to take a picture at the wedding). A If you look through the viewfinder and press the button, it will make the screen go a bit darker, but it will also show you how the depth-of-field will look when you take the picture. A This is done so the camera can gather as much light as possible for focusing before the picture is taken. I found your article on Pinterest and I am going to enjoy reading more articles on your blog! I am not a fan of it and thought you where spot on with the description of how photos look with Instagram. What app are you using on the iPad, that would be great to instantly see your shot on a much bigger screen. However, I noticed that even with the automatic stabilizers, upon close inspection on a large LCD screen, most of our pics had subtle blur effects in them.
I thought the best time to go shooting was in full daylight, but nothing could be further from the truth. You can consider this the fully-automatic setting of your cam, where it intelligently sets the aperture and shutter speed for you based on what you shoot. This is not the right thing to do though, as the subject becomes too static and the viewer cannot determine the context. I somewhat know what this means, but have not experimented with it enough to tell you when to use which mode.
I still hope that you found my tips to be somewhat useful in figuring out the basics of DSLR photography. In this article we will discuss some basic facts and certain shooting techniques that every DSLR user should be aware of which will help them get the best out of their equipment in terms of Focus and Sharpness. Center focus point is the most powerful and fastest focus point in any camera; it is also a cross type focus point. The live view function coupled with the ability to zoom the view to say 5x or even 10x makes focusing manually much easier and precise. A Dustin sets a custom picture control so that the photos on the LCD screen look more like how they will look in post-processing.
A For a creative effect, you could set your camera to multiple exposure and lock it down on a tripod. A So when you’re looking through the viewfinder, you already know what the depth of field will look like. Hopefully with the following information you should be able to cut a few corners while you learn.
This comes with a major downfall though: it dramatically increases the noise on your pictures, and noise is hard to remove during post processing.
Another poor example is to shoot crowds, they are simply not interesting, too complex and don’t bring a clear message.
This is why most pro cams do not even have an integrated flash, instead they rely on an external flash which they point to the ceiling or wall to create diffuse light with soft tones. By reading the meta-data, you can see which settings for aperture, shutter speed, ISO, etc the photographer used. Alternatively you could employ panning technique to capture movement in the background while keeping your subject sharp. A Then take three pictures of the runner sprinting by and the camera will combine them into an action sequence. Ideally, you should keep ISO as low as possible, only slightly increase it when shooting in dark scenes. You can also intentially set the shutter speed to a high value in order to create a more experimental picture, i.e.
Examples can be wildlife, or an urban scene where the scene itself changes so fast that you do not have time to manually tune your camera for the shot. I have never worried myself with setting the Picture Control because I ALWAYS shoot in RAW. A Changing the picture control if you shoot in RAW will not affect the image you see on the computer, but it will help you see what you’re capturing on the camera. In fact, without learning photography and lighting, your expensive DSLR is going to end up creating slightly nicer point-and-shoot-quality images.Becoming a great photographer doesn't happen overnight. An alternative is to use the self-timer of the cam, but you will not always have a steady surface to place the cam on.
The result is that you get pics that look as if they were shot in daylight, without the need to use a flash.
If you’re into reading books, I highly recommend to use multiple books on the subject.
To set a custom picture control or picture style, go to your menu and find the custom picture control setting. Note that if you shoot your pics as RAW, you do not need to worry about white balance, as this can be set during post processing. It is not until you come home and project your pics on a large screen that you will notice the blur, unsharpness and composition errors.
A I like to use these settings: A  If you shoot in RAW instead of JPEG, this is still true because your camera saves out a JPEG preview that is used as the thumbnail image and to display on the LCD screen on the back of your camera.
Truly great photographers will tell you that they're still learning to this day, even though they may have been shooting for over 30 years! If you have to shoot during the day, always shoot from the side, never let the sunlight be in front of you or behind you. Note though that shutter speed automatically increases in dark scenes, you will really need a tripod or self-timer for pictures to be sharp then.
Other filters you can consider are the polarizing filter (to decrease reflections), colorizing filters (increase richness of color) and the IR filter (to shoot in complete darkness). I’m not much of a filter fan personally, as most filtering effects can be done during post-processing.
Understanding photography and exposure in regards to aperture, shutter speed and ISO are crucial, but it isn’t going to help you take a photo right this second. You’ll be surprised how much you can learn and how interesting your shots can be in even the dullest of gardens. And of course, you really do not want be to be learning your cam on the scene, you should be ready on the scene.

Photo editing apps for iphone 4.2.1 jailbreak
How to take picture stylist sims 3 3ds

Comments to «Photography dslr tips for beginners 5k»

  1. Glamurniy_Padonok on 03.01.2014 at 11:21:57
    Digital camera you possibly can afford that has.
  2. TARKAN on 03.01.2014 at 11:47:59
    High-key images that really feel ethereal and light to create a sense.
  3. Seytan_Qiz on 03.01.2014 at 21:46:32
    Flash, and depending on the lighting conditions.
  4. ElektrA_RaFo on 03.01.2014 at 10:55:32
    Which is too late for teenagers knowledge label filters?which can.
  5. O_R_K_H_A_N on 03.01.2014 at 13:43:14
    Swiftly and accurately, even with.