These cheat sheets come in very handy for people who want a quick guide on how to use their camera when they are out in the field.
Download it, print it, laminate it, shrink it, share it… however it helps your photography- use it ! Hope it comes in handy and why not bookmark this page so that you can come back to view it any time.
I taped a copy on a white door,took a photo, protected it from being erased and now it goes everywhere my camera goes.
If you're just starting out with a dslr camera, you're probably pretty overwhelmed with all the different settings you have available.
Your first dslr or mirrorless camera can excite you with its promise of professional-looking photos. Find and save ideas about photography cheat sheets on pinterest, the world's catalog of ideas. All number digital slr camera beginners nikon d3200, review, comparison, price, bundle, accessories, compatible lenses. Copyright © 2012 Share The Knownledge, All trademarks are the property of the respective trademark owners. One of the reasons enthusiasts purchase digital SLR cameras, is to take night photographs in and around the city without them resulting in blurred or shaky images. If you have a tripod handy, set the ISO to the lowest setting your digital SLR camera will go.
If you absolutely need to hand hold your camera, the only choice of SLR settings you have for night photography is to set it to P (Program) and up the ISO to 800 - 1600.
I recognised this instantly and reshot the photograph using a slower shutter speed of 15 seconds. If you don't have a tripod handy, the other option is to up the ISO to 800 or 1600, then keep the shutter speed fast. The ISO was kept to a high image quality 100, while the shutter speed set to a slow 30 seconds. A frequently asked question beginners often ask is, where should they focus for night shots. We’ve covered a lot of food photography tips and tutorials in the past 16 weeks, so I thought it might be helpful to give a little recap of what we’ve gone over so far. So let’s venture out on a journey and learn from Trey how to take best HDR images possible, what software to choose & how to use it, and pick up a few neat ticks along the way. Take multiple photos in something called “Auto-bracketing mode” or “Auto-exposure mode” or “Exposure Bracketing” — they are all the same thing.
Tripod. You might want to use a tripod if you are planning on low-light photos like sunsets and these sorts of things. Photomatix Pro – There is a free version (that leaves an ugly watermark) and a paid version which you can get with a discount, just use ”STUCKINCUSTOMS“ code at checkout. People also enjoy my Photomatix Presets that will help give your photos many looks, from dreamy to grunge and everything in between. Adobe Lightroom – The final steps of my tutorial have you using Lightroom for some finishing touches. Adobe Photoshop or Elements – Anything that allows you to work in layers is fine really, and these are the most popular. Bracketing. Even though you can make a good HDR photo from a single RAW, I often prefer to use Autobracketing.
If you happen to be shooting into the sun, you may want to take a “-3 shot as well because it will be so bright.
If you are on a tripod shooting at low light conditions, set your ISO as low as it will go. Here is the photo that I took down in Milford Sound, New Zealand, which is very close to my new home in Queenstown. Now, in the shot below, you can see all five images I took in Milford Sound, ranging from -2 to +2. 3) Click Preprocess and your computer will churn away, doing magical and mysterious things. Every photo is unique, and you’ll never get the same results between different kinds of photos.
Now that you are done with merging the photos into one HDR photograph you can continue editing the shot in your favourite processing program. I often prefer to use tools like Photomatix and Lightroom to create many “versions” of the image, each one just being a thought experiment. The final step, you will see, if you will let me jump ahead, is to layer them all in Photoshop and then combine them into something totally unique that speaks to your personality and your sense of art-self. For more tutorials visit recently published Photograph The Night Sky, and Dreamy Great Gatsby Portraits. But before we look at the how, we need to look at the why this feature is useful for photographers.
A photographer could choose to shoot HDR images just to be a little more creative or because the scene they are trying to capture won’t look at its best without it.
Select Nikon cameras, such as the D5200 DSLR, feature a built-in HDR mode which does the work for you.
The camera features an auto mode, which many other models have, but it also comes with four added levels to pick from – Low, Normal, High And Extra High. When shooting, it’s vital that you keep the camera as still as possible between each of the shots, so as to produce identical images. Most cameras will have an auto bracketing feature which makes the photographers job slightly easier as all they have to do is pick the increments the exposures are going to differ by and the camera sorts the rest. Three images, at two stop intervals, should produce good results but this will depend on the contrast range in the scene you’re capturing. Once you have a set of images that cover the scene’s full contrast range you can open the exposures on your computer in an HDR software program, various are available, and bring them together in one image. You can always take a few test shots, paying particular attention to shadow areas, to see if any detail is lost before working on your HDR image. As mentioned, do take care in post production too as a strong HDR effect won’t work for everything. Learning photography has many components, but developing a personal vision is one of the most important. One of the first very important skills I acquired in my Australian Photography course was the ability to breakdown lighting and determine approximate camera settings in images taken by other photographers. It is not difficult at all and you can train yourself to do it well if you are familiar with the mentioned above photography fundamentals.
Although, if something really falls out of your understanding of lighting in a photo there’s always a chance that you’re looking at a photo-montage, or the lighting was significantly altered in post-production in it. I will share my list of cues, which help me breakdown lighting setups and camera settings in photos, in two articles, and today you can read the first part. Diffused light scatters onto the subject from many directions, the shadows are very bright or absent altogether. Brighter shadows help visually even out bumpy or aged skin, so use this quality of diffused light to your advantage when working with clients or models whose skin is not very even.
Make sure to educate yourself on the purposes of and differences between light-shaping tools – light modifiers, flags, diffusers, grids, reflectors, etc.
You will also sometimes notice an even darker spot in the center of the round catchlights – that’s a reflection of a beauty dish with no diffuser on, and the hardness of the shadows on the model’s face will usually confirm it. Also, you will often see only a half of the circle of the round catchlights – that’s because normally the main light is placed higher than the model’s eye level, so the upper halves of the catchlights are cut off by the eyelid and eyelashes.
Needless to say, that the circle of the catchlights will be smaller or bigger depending on how far or close the light with a beauty dish was placed to the model’s face. In the first photo the model’s further eye is already out of focus, while in the second photo the model’s entire face, hair and most of the body are in focus. And finally in the third photo, not only the model is entirely in focus, but even a little bit of snow and the crack in the asphalt are still in focus further behind the model. The opposite lighting conditions and camera settings (a lot of fill light, bright surroundings and wide open aperture) will result in the opposite outcome – bright or no shadows in the image.
To successfully identify whether or not any rim light was used, what light source it was and where it was placed, I usually also look for other hints besides the obvious rim light itself. For example, in the first photo you can see very apparent highlights on the bottom lip and in the further eye created by the rim light, and the subtle light on the model’s cheek, chin and the hair confirms the use and direction of rim light in this picture. So, now you can tell that there were two lights behind the model, one light above her and, and, by the fact that the shadows are not completely black on the front of her body, you can determine there was either fill light placed in front of the model or a bright surface (a wall or a reflector), off which the existing light bounced back onto the model. And finally, in the last photo, the direction of the sunlight is obvious from the light and shadows on the grass behind the model.
Lastly, the big catchlights in her eyes and the direction of the shadow on her chest behind her hand suggest that there was a large source of light in front of the model as well.
I hope you enjoyed the first part of the article and are intrigued to learn more! Stay tuned and come back in a week. All parents wish to have some reminders of their children’s childhood, but the truth is that it might be difficult to take good shots of kids.
Before you actually start setting up the scene, you should start by checking the settings of your camera. When it comes to the kids’ photography ideas you have to remember that the settings you should use are similar to the settings of sports’ shooting.

The people interested in tips for kids’ photography ought to know that it is important to choose a wide aperture, which will come with fast shutter speed and shallow field depth. Before thinking about other kids’ photography ideas, make sure that you switch to continuous mode. The kids’ photography ideas that you should use depend greatly on your child and the things he or she likes to do. I’m sure most of you know what a filter is , but for those who just got here and are just taking their first steps into the realm of photography, filters are thin pieces of glass that are mounted on the front your lens with the purpose of certain optical corrections or special effects.
There are a number of types of filters on the market, but here are the ones we think are must-haves for all photographers. They are especially handy when photographing waterfalls or just about any kind of running water.
It’s perfect for landscapes, especially when you want a good exposure on land and a more dramatic sky, but they can also come in handy for motion shots too. This filter is designed to protect the lens, mostly from scratches, dirt, or physical impact, but also to protect the coating from excessive exposure to powerful sunlight. It is the tool to use for removing reflections on water and it is also one of the most important items in any landscape photographer’s bag, as it as a great, contrast enhancing effect on blue skies. So much of bubbling energy and pure spirits, every kid is unique in their own way and do have an eternity towards creativity.
They are going to challenge your camera’s Shutter speed and focussing capability to the extreme. So that doesn’t mean a kid who has agreed to stand still in front of your camera, will eventually convey the desired appropriate emotions. Learning to use a digital camera is in some ways like learning to use a computer or cell phone or any other electronic device.
When you are new to photography, especially DSLR photography, all the settings can be a little overwhelming.
HDR’s role is to allow a greater dynamic range between the lightest and darkest areas of an image . However, as you'll soon find out, it's not as easy as setting your digital camera to automatic and shooting the image.
This allows the camera enough time to let light in to the sensor, without increasing your ISO setting. This time the SLR camera was given more time to allow the light in to the sensor, resulting in a clearly focused night shot that you can see below.
However, the quality of the night shot will be grainy or noisy, and is usually not recommended. The night photograph was taken from a 260 meter-high Sydney Lookout Tower where tripods were forbidden. It also makes for easier searching in case you missed or are searching for one of my old posts. If you use some special HDR software, you can see all the light in the final photo that you can see when you are standing on the scene. This first image below is the first HDR photograph ever to hang in the Smithsonian Institution in D.C. Here are some tips when it comes to choosing your camera and what tools I recommend to bring along. The whole Topaz Bundle on the site is also a good option if you want all the tools they offer. You will have to take multiple photos of the same scene at different exposures, so that later you could stitch these photos into one HDR image.
Later you will merge these photos with post-processing software and will compensate the high dynamic range which your camera could not see, but your eye could. To do this, I dragged the five images from Lightroom onto the Photomatix Icon, but there are many ways to do it. You’re probably very happy with your shot, or at least a bit surprised how fun it was, yes?
Then go into Develop mode and apply or create a preset which would add drama to the centre of your photograph. I executed both actions using few of the recommended softwares, you can read about it here. On the Nikon D5200 the camera takes two shots at different exposure levels and combines them.
Adjustments can be made to the image to produce a more accurate representation of the scene or you can go for a hyper-real shot where elements are over-cooked.
Ross Baughmann, Peter Moore, Walter Chandoah, Marsha Resnick (not related), Herbert Keppler (a former boss but a great teacher), Bryan Peterson, and Herb Goro. If all of the photographers around you are shooting in one direction, turn around. The picture you get will probably be more interesting, and will stand out from the crowd!
Photograph what interests you. If you are photographing something that bores you, it will show.
Hold the camera in your hand, not around your neck, and definitely not in a “never ready” bag. The best camera is the one you have with you. And there is no excuse to leave a camera home, especially with so many small cameras available today. Constantly look at great photography. Read photo books, go to exhibits, check out work online.
It’s OK to emulate other photographers, or painters or other artists with your photographs.
Learn with the best. A photographer who has a successful studio or has a collection of Pulitzer prizes is going to give you more practical advice than someone who is always in a classroom and has little professional experience. Hit the books. Besides looking at good photos, learn as much as you can from the pros about the thinking behind their most successful photos. If you understand how the direction of light and its degree of diffusion are controlled and how they affect images, it should be easy for you to train yourself to “read” lighting in the images you see in magazines, on billboards and in your favorite photographers’ portfolios. The more you challenge yourself and practice guessing lighting setups and camera settings in other photographers’ work, as well as shoot and analyze your own images, the easier it will become. And again, it will be easier for you to identify such things the more you shoot and analyze your own pictures and lighting. The basics is where it all starts, and how well one knows and understands them will often determine the quality of work he or she produces.
The smaller the light source (relative to the size of the subject) or the farther away it is from the subject, the sharper and darker the shadows will be. The closer the light source to the subject or the larger it is (relative to the size of the subject), the softer and brighter the shadows will be. Think a heavily overcast sky, when entire sky becomes the source of light.
Make sure to avoid it when shooting female portraits, or in the mentioned above situations. The size and shape of catchlights in the eyes. This will help you to identify what light sources were used, how large or small they were, where and how close to the face they were placed. The speed of the strobe light is too fast for the pupils to contract before the picture is captured, and even if the modeling light was on, it must have been too weak for the model’s pupils to react to it and contract. Approximate aperture size. This will help you to identify how wide the aperture was open when the photo was taken. Ambient light conditions and fill light. This often can be determined by the darkness of the shadows in the shot.
But even if they were out of the frame, you could tell that there were two light sources behind the model by the direction of the shadows on the bed and the model’s body, as well as the visible rim lights.
Most likely a reflector, considering the large aperture (shallow depth of field) that was used when taking this picture. In the meantime, start using the information you’ve learned today and practicing “reading” light. If you are struggling with problems of this kind you might be interested in kids’ photography ideas.
If you happen to have a tree house, it would be a wonderful setting since it has natural light and it also offers some shade.
Having to modify them in the middle of the shooting might make you miss a big moment not to mention that children lose interest very fast.
If you have clutter in the background, you will be able to bring the subject into focus this way.
This is important because it is possible for the face of the child to fall into the shadows and this way you will have enough detail. If you have a nice shot keep the button pushed to make sure that you will make the best of it.
The list can be very long, although it’s safe to say that not everything on the market is actually indispensable to a photographer.
It reduces light at the top of the image, gradually allowing the normal amount of light to pass through, towards the lower portion of the image. Every manufacturer has its own versions, some are hard, others are soft, and so it’s best to get a detailed description before you buy. Now, UV protection is not as crucial as it was with film cameras, but still, without a good UV filter, your images could have a blue hue to them. It will however reduce the minimum focusing distance, thus allowing you to get closer to subjects. As a quick reference guide these are a great way to remind yourself of a setting or learn a particular function on you camera.

Language of innocence and to capture kids on their own ground dreaming about a small world will remain a huge challenge for any photographer.
The user must know which button to press or option to select, where to find that button or option, when and why to use it, and what results can be expected from using it. So I made this quick guide which you can reference for the type of shot you are trying to achieve and the conditions you are faced with. Whereas on some SLR models, like the Nikon D40 for example, shutter priority is displayed as the letter S.
This should ensure your camera automatically sets the aperture to capture the whole scene in focus and not just closer objects. Perhaps you’ve been in a beautiful spot and taken a photo and it comes out flat and disappointing. I think this goes to show how mainstream and accepted HDR can be, if the technique is properly applied. The first list of software is my personal absolute must (and will be discussed in this tutorial), and the second set is fun recommended software. It always feels epic and wonderful, but as you can see, the original photo was not all that exciting. You are welcome to experiment with all of these areas, but the only one I usually check is the bottom option. After you have fun playing with the sliders, click Process and then you are ready for Finishing Touches. In my actual day-to-day processing, I may make several Photomatix versions and several Lightroom versions. However, by working with a built-in HDR mode or shooting a HDR image manually you’ll be capturing a series of exposures, known as a bracket, that will be combined into one image that has better dynamic range (highlights and shadow detail).
However, if you have a scene where the camera can’t handle all the different exposure levels present, HDR can help you capture a more balanced exposure. There is much for a photography student to learn regarding equipment choices, exposure, composition, post processing, lighting, and other nuts-and-bolts aspects of photography, But there are other less tangible aspects to photography that a great teacher, someone who has vast experience as a working photographer, will impart wisdom that someone whose only experience is in academia may not impart.
Conversely, if you photograph subjects that you really enjoy and reflect your interests, you will be motivated to get the best photo possible. A caption is a hook on which to hang a photo and if it is necessary, then the photo isn’t good enough. A lot of photos make you a photographer. Keep your gear to a minimum and shoot as much as possible. Film is pixels are cheap!
A live workshop is great but there are plenty of online tutorials on AdoramaTV with some of the best photography teachers in the world, and they’re free! I’ve listed a dozen books currently available at Adorama on the right side of this page that will get you started not so much in exposure and technique, but in thinking creatively about photography.
In other words, it will be easier for you to successfully select your camera settings and set up correct lighting to get what you envisioned to achieve, or what your client is asking you for. Just as much it is important to understand highlights and shadows rendering and know human anatomy for a professional classic portrait painter, understanding the light behavior and the basic elements of exposure is necessary for any photographer.
The hardest light is created by a point or spot light source – a light small enough or far enough from the subject that its actual size is irrelevant. Think the sun in a clear sky, a spotlight on a performer on a stage – the shadows are dark and hard. Or light coming in through a big window on the northern side of a building – the shadows are very bright and soft, you can barely see their outline. Otherwise you will add post-production time and cost and create problems that you could have easily avoided by the correct choice of lighting. The truth is, in order to consistently set up beautiful lighting you need to know the basic principles of light behavior and absolutely do not need to buy expensive equipment and props, because you can replace them with DIY tools that can help you shape the light just as well. The focal length and the distance between the camera and the subject will also affect the width of the focus plane, so remember to take this detail into account. If the shadows are very dark it may suggest that there was no fill light (reflector or any additional lighting) used, and no bright walls or other reflective surfaces around the subject in the shot. You can judge the output power of the light source pointed at the model’s back (not necessarily a controlled light source) and its positioning by the brightness and the width of the rim light. But if you look at this picture a little closer, you will also notice that there was light coming from above – just look at the model’s fingers above her head. But if you take another second to breakdown the lighting in this picture you will also see the rim light created by the diffused evening light on her right as well… did I say evening? Having a trip to the park is another wonderful idea since they usually have great playing areas.
It is possible that you will have to increase the ISO, but you can be sure that your camera will be able to handle it. Not only will you not be protected, but it could also impact the image, something a filter of this type should never do.
They come in a variety of magnification settings, 3 x, 6 x, 10x, depending on manufacturer.
These filters provide a bit of help in situations where your lens would normally be limited by just a few more inches.
For this reason, it is imperative that the user read thoroughly the user manual for any given camera, in addition to reading ancillary materials such as this guide.
If you haven’t met him yet, Trey is HDR guru, old school gentleman explorer, fellow 500px-er, and an all-around great guy. With HDR processing there is no longer a need for that — now the final image can be as truly evocative as it was when you were there. This means you’ll be setting up your camera to take multiple photos of a scene, all at different shutter speeds, so you get the full range of light. All programs that I mention work on both Mac or Windows (I have converted from a Windows guy to a Mac guy. If you are poking around your camera now, just like for the letters “BKT” for Bracket, and then maybe you can see how you can set it for three exposures at -2, 0, and +2. If I did handheld shots without a tripod, then I would also select the first one there to auto-align.
Whenever I click on a preset, it dramatically moves around the sliders and drop-downs on the left. Well, depending on what you choose in those top two areas, it dramatically changes the sliders and options beneath! Finishing touches allow you to make a few more final changes in Photomatix before you save the image. I have a few more steps that I go through using different tools in order to get the final image. As with all these, you can click to zoom in on the image above so you can deconstruct how the preset works.
Take a look at our article on using histograms on your camera for more information on this.
That way, when you are in the midst of shooting, you will be able to quickly adjust settings so you can get the shot.
Figure out why they work and what it is about their photographs that capture your rapt attention. Look for cues to determine how wide the plane of focus (depth of field) and how blurred the background is when looking at a photo. If the image is also very sharp throughout the frame it also tells you that a higher f-number was used (small aperture).
Check out my recent article about shooting with color gels, I talk about the placement of strobes behind the model and how that affects the width of the rim light among other things there.
Beautiful, full-color images illustrate where the essential buttons and dials are, so you'll quickly learn how to use their D3100, and use it like a pro! I used to dislike Mac people and thought they were annoying, but now I’m a changed man…I digress). For example, on my Nikon D800, it can take 9 photos, stepping by 1, so I could do -4, -3, -2, -1, 0, +1, +2, +3, +4. So I’m giving you a little push here.You don’t need to understand ALL of Photoshop to do these few things I will teach you.
Once the act of taking a properly exposed and focused photo is as natural as breathing, you can concentrate on developing your vision. By the length of the shadows in the background, and also judging by the fact that the rim light on her hair is created by the sun that is in a lower spot in the sky, not above the model, otherwise the top of her hair would be lit by it as well. Once you are fluent with the terminology of your camera and the when, where, how, and why of all the options and buttons, then you’re ready to expand your knowledge of PHOTOGRAPHY and combine your knowledge or your camera’s operation with your knowledge of photographic theory and technique to take great photographs. From there you will be able to judge how slow the shutter speed needs to be for the rest of your photo's on that particular night. In the example above, I started with the preset “Quaint Hobbit Holes” and then modified some sliders from there. I’m just letting you know that most cameras are different, and don’t fret if yours does it differently.

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