Few things are more exciting than a fireworks display—except maybe a photograph of a fireworks display.
If you can visit the location of the fireworks show ahead of time, it’ll help you gauge the best angles for your photos. But you won’t be able to predict the crowds, so make sure you scout out a couple of backup, super-secret locations too.
You can certainly get great shots of fireworks with a smartphone, but the rules of engagement are a bit different when shooting with a phone instead of a full-on camera. Because of the missing optical-zoom capabilities, you’re going to want to be closer to the action with a phone than you would be with any other kind of camera. You can still get great shots of fireworks with faster shutter speeds (and you won’t need a tripod). Apple recently announced it will open up the iPhone’s manual camera controls to third-party developers at WWDC 2014, so there should be apps that let you take full control of manual settings by this time next year. If you’d rather put a personal touch on your fireworks photos, get ready to dive into the manual controls.
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SOCCERTODAY – Stoke came from behind to beat Swansea 2-1 at the Britannia Stadium on Sunday as they climbed to 10th in the English Premier League table. For many people in the USA, you get about two opportunities per year to take photos of fireworks – New Years Eve and Independence Day.
Despite all of these unknowns, the secret to take pictures of fireworks that you’ll love is to do as much planning and preparation as you can. If you’re photographing fireworks in the city, pick a nice skyline or prominent building to give the viewer a sense of location. Claim your location early, because thousands of other people will fill the space around you.
If you’re keeping your shutter open for a few seconds and there is a lot of smoke in the area, you may end up with a very ugly scene. I also recommend taking some shots just before the show starts, in case you need to do any blending later in Photoshop. How do you set your exposure when you don’t know how bright the environment will be during the show?
I’ve found that the best way to plan is to use that test shot of your environment before the fireworks start.

Remember, having the shutter open doesn’t mean that your exposure is gathering light. Your effective exposure may only be 15 seconds, even if the shutter was actually open for a couple of minutes. It’s because there are sometimes gaps and lulls in the shots, particularly if the show is choreographed to music or a story. Longer exposures allow time for light to gather, but it also allows for multiple bursts of fireworks in the same frame.
The difference is only 1.7 seconds of exposure, but that was enough to kill the image even on a dark night. Using a much lower ISO, I can vary my exposure time from about five seconds on either side of my sweet spot and still get  usable photo. Lightroom and other tools do an outstanding job of noise reduction, and they don’t cause you to miss a shot.
I’ve watched some people point their camera up at the sky to capture fireworks bursts while completely forgetting about any foreground or background elements. Fireworks against a black sky are less interesting than fireworks over a cityscape of landmark of some kind. 1: Open the Camera Calibration panel and make sure the Process is set to the current revision. You may need to remove dust spots or make other changes, so don’t forget to include your normal post processing routine.
It’s easy to get caught up in your photography details and forget to have a good time. You obviously want a clear shot of the sky, and a nice wide-angle view of the skyline should do wonders for your shot composition. But if you have a phone-friendly tripod, you might as well download an app that lets you adjust your shutter speed to capture dramatic light trails—and avoid the fireworks being the only thing visible in your photos. Still, there are a few apps that let you take control of the shutter speed on the iPhone camera right now: LongExpo, Slow Shutter!, Slow Shutter Cam, and Slow Shutter Camera+. You won’t be adjusting your focus from shot to shot in this scenario, so flip your camera to manual focus and set that focus to infinity.
You may want to press the shutter button just as you see shells launch into the sky so that your long-exposure shot depicts the light trails from that upward journey as well as the full drama of the explosion. Any movement of the camera will make the light trails and other objects in the scene look like blurs, but this feature can also be used to great creative effect.
Some let you adjust the full sheet of in-camera settings, while others just let you control the shutter button and get a live view of the scene from your camera. Victory left Mark Hughes’s men level on points with Manchester United, Arsenal and Tottenham Hotspur. Fireworks experts won’t launch some explosives if the wind is too high other other circumstances make it unsafe.
If you’re late to the party, you may miss out because you failed to scout a good location and stake your claim before the sun goes down. Sometimes it’s good to go to an area where no one else is getting the same shot as you.
Take a few photos to make sure that you’re happy and then leave your camera on the tripod. The key is to know how much exposure time (different than shutter speed) works without under or over-exposing your environment.
You don’t want to have your foreground or background subject collecting light on your sensor when there are no shots in the air. Given the ISO and Aperture I mentioned above, 15 seconds is roughly the sweet spot for time open.
The second photo had more time to gather light, but it also caught more bursts in the same frame. It may be useful if you want to cut them out later to use in a graphic, but otherwise, fireworks on the night sky all alone are as boring as counting pellets in a bunny farm.

Here are the steps that I take in my post processing in Lightroom to complete my fireworks photos.
Hold down the Shift key and then Double-Click the labels for the Blacks, Whites, Shadows and Highlights – in that order. You may want to do these with the Adjustment Brush only on the fireworks trails, or globally. I like to move the Masking to get the bold lines (hold the Alt or Option key as you move the Masking slider) and then sharpen just those areas. One of the reasons I enjoy using a cable release and a tripod is so that I don’t have to look through the viewfinder while the show is running. Those are also things you want to share with your viewers when you present your fireworks photos. I share posts to help you make the most of your own photography and blogging, along with reviews of the products and services I use and recommend. If it’s blowing towards you from the direction of the fireworks, you may end up with increasingly murky photos as the show goes on. If the sky starts filling up with smoke, you can still get some good shots if you use a tighter zoom that features less of the smoke-filled skyline. For Android, the best bet is probably Camera FV-5, which turns the smartphone camera into a full-fledged manual shooter.
The one exception to this rule would be the Nokia Lumia 1020, which has a 41-megapixel sensor that provides enough resolution so that digital zoom doesn’t look super-crappy.
If you’d rather keep your images looking tack-sharp, use a tripod and a remote-control app or shutter-release cable. Then that smokey haze will be in the rest of your shots if there isn’t a wind to blow it clear.
Not only does that allow you to keep the same composition from shot to shot, but it lets you reduce your ISO to avoid noise and keep the shutter open for a long period of time.
You can clean up your fireworks photo in post-processing if you have a clean environmental image before the first shot. Otherwise, your auto-focus may start hunting while it tries to define a subject during the show. That’s time when you cannot shoot until the processing finishes and your camera is ready to write the result to your memory card.
You can step back or off to the side for your composition and use whatever focal length works best. In bulb mode, the camera takes a shot for as long as you press the shutter button, so you can start the exposure exactly when you want and end it just as precisely. Many modern cameras have sidecar mobile apps that let you take control of the camera without touching it.
If you don’t allow for that in your composition, then you lose the very thing you set out to shoot.
You can use a range of battle-tested manual settings to capture dramatic photos of those explosions in the sky. Even better, use rooftops creatively, sneak onto the fireworks barge as a stowaway—anything to get really close to the action and force your smartphone to expose the shot for the fireworks themselves. This may seem counterintuitive, but some stabilization systems actually introduce shake if there isn’t any, and some of them also boost the ISO or use a faster shutter speed to snap a crisper shot.
This is especially handy for fireworks photos, because you can unwittingly move the camera slightly every time you physically touch its shutter button or controls. You often see that sort of technique in newspapers and magazines displaying fireworks over a city.
Even if you’re using a smartphone, there are a few apps and quick tips that will help you nab the best shots.

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Comments to «How to take pictures of fireworks without tripod»

  1. DoDaqDan_QelBe on 09.05.2016 at 16:54:30
    Quantum effectivity of the sensor from the iPhone 6 Plus didn't stand a chance towards.
  2. TIGER85 on 09.05.2016 at 11:33:23
    Ardour for dance and you will need to have the use Live View to compose.