At this point if you do not have a lot of patience and shakey hands, just take your camera in. What we decided to do was take apart the camera screw by screw and assign each screw a number while drawing a rough diagram of where each screw goes.  What we found is that most screws were of unequal length. TAKE YOUR TIME!  WORK AT IT LIKE A PUZZLE.  TAKE OUT ALL VISIBLE SCREWS AND DO NOT FORCE ANY PARTS WITHOUT LOOKING AT WHAT IS HOLDING THEM BACK (usually a hidden screw). From this point on I'll post a series of photos to help you disassemble and a few videos at the end to show results.
Now just do everything in reverse and put it back together.  Hope this saves you a few hundred bucks in repairs. I wish I had taken more photos but I wasn't planning on making a tutorial.  I only took photos as I took it apart incase I forgot where something went.  Good luck!
Now if you follow my directions above you can replace it in about 20 minutes.  It's much more easy than taking it apart all the way to the lens. I have the same problems and symptoms with my HF11, so I opened it and oiled the mentioned part.But how to oil the rails at the back, not only at the front visible part??? Couldn't fix the problem with the scratching motor noise, even the camcorder can't focus good.
Somehow I'm sure that my problem can be easily solved, but don't know how to reach the lens focus motor part.
Even after you oiled the rails, then sometimes you still get the "ticking" scratching sound of the motor and the blank screen, right?
Believe me, not the oiling is the cure! SleestaksRule was so lucky to solve his problem only with oiling the rails. Last, the image below is the same part close up.This time, the image orientation is correct.
Looking at the picture below, the part is sliding back and forth at the elevn o'clock position. I haven't opened mine up since I replaced the LCD but does it seem when it comes to the front that it wants to keep going and can't therefore grinding at whatever is pushing it forward?  Maybe there's something that tells it to stop at some point and that's not working.


I've had people write me in private with success stories and they don't post but glad you took the time to document what you did.  I remember hunting down info on this at the time and came up with very little so my wife and I sat down and did our best one afternoon which paid off since we couldn't possibly afford another and at the time I couldn't find one that I liked more than this one.
It seems to me that the ticking noise comes from another lens slide in the back of the camera unit. The lens slide in the front (the one which got stuck in your case) and the one in the back (which makes the ticking noise). The ticking noise indeed comes from a lens in between the sensor and the front assembly which you can see in the pictures from my previous post. When I disassembled it, I did not take notes exactly what I did, as I didnt expect to fix it. 2) The second thing I did, which might have contributed to solving the issue it to access the rear of the 'black box'.
My reason is that even if I open the Camera Unit with the motor inside, I can't even check or test how it works or how it should work, because of no electricity connected after all the detached parts and flexible cables disconnected.
Again, you can see the shutter and the image stabilier unit with its two silverish magnets. The ticking noise comes from a unit on the left side, right behind the image stabiliser unit. Both slides move fine, so Im pretty sure its not a mechanical problem connected to the rails themselves. Took apart the whole thing, accessing the image sensor and the rear assembly of the "black box", where the lenses are.
Even if the camcorder is ok for a while, once I knock or move the camcorder, the noise starts again. After some shaking back and forth the noise stops and the camcorder works well, even after full zoom-in and -out. I got the to the lens rails without damaging anything or losing any screws and stuff. Once I oiled them up it seemed to be working fine but the screen is still black and when I try to tune it off, it would not turn off like before.
Unfortunately, the disassembly of the Camera Unit (the black tube in the middle of the camcorder) is limited.


Obviously something is dislocated somehow inside there and makes the terrible scratching sound and blank screen. Today, I disassembled my Vixia and took it apart all the way down to the black camera unit (the "black box" inside". Maybe some part of the lens slide itself got dislocated, so it can not fulfill its original purpose?
Also sometimes when I try to turn it on, it makes a ticking sound like it's still stuck. My question is, can it be something else wrong? You can remove a lot of metal segments, the sensor, the UV filter, etc., but it's not described how to open the tube itself where the MOTOR is placed. I'm sure the reason is a dislocation of the motor and its flexible cable which works well after shaking the camcorder. If I make any vertical movement, something obviously makes a contact and the noise appears again. Inside are also the group of lens system with many weird segments, microscopic springs and many micro elements. But once you make full zoom-in or bend the camcorder a little, then it makes this bad contact inside again and the problem appears again. The reason I contacted you here is if you know the way how to disassemble the camcorder, so that to reach exactly the motor system. The camera does not initialise properly anymore and gets stuck in a sequence, where the inner lens assembly is forcefully moved back and forth, causing the ticking noise.



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Comments to «How to take photos with canon vixia driver»

  1. DoDaqDan_QelBe on 03.02.2014 at 14:50:11
    Icon on the the zodiac when the solar was shining good macro lens for lower.
  2. SEKS_POTOLOQ on 03.02.2014 at 21:19:28
    Large commission on every sale paper the dimensions of the front and for my part.