The successor to the very popular Nikon D3200, the D3300 is a powerful DSLR with a lot of features to improve your photos over those taken in Auto mode. First, we'll give you a quick tour of the key controls, and then we'll explain how to use them for different effects. Starting at the top of the camera, you'll find a dial on the right side for a range of shooting modes. S – Shutter Priority: You set the shutter speed using the Command dial on the back of the camera, where your right thumb rests. A – Aperture Priority: You set the aperture using the Command dial, and the camera sets the shutter speed.
The D3300 offers a number of special Effects shooting modes, such as Super Vivid and Miniature. If you decide to set the ISO manually, try to go no higher than 1600 for everyday shooting, and no higher than 3200 for low light and evening shooting.
Using Aperture Priority again, go for a higher setting of f9 or greater to produce a deep depth of field. The D3300 has three light-metering modes, controlled from the settings menu that is accessed by pressing the "i" button.
This option pays more attention to the center of the image, but also considers the rest of the picture. Use this to have the camera measure just a small spot in the center of the image, ignoring the rest.
Three settings — White Balance, Picture Control and Retouch — determine how colors appear in your photos. White Balance judges the overall color of the light in a scene in order to interpret colors accurately. Retouch is a better way to use color effects, as it applies them to a copy of the photo, leaving the original unaltered. I just looked up Photomatix in Google and the first thing that came up was your Aug 10th post about the discount.
I have looked along with an experienced photographer but my D50 only goes up to number 6 (not 12) in P mode.
Hey cool video i cant wait to try it, i have a D50 too, but when i go to #12 it isnt highlighted and it wont let me scroll to it, and i set my menu to detailed, can anyone help me out??? I have a Canon EOS 50D and I was wondering what the best setting is for taking HDR pictures? How to Find Beautiful Models (Without Paying Them) 5:11 pm By Abigail Have you been hitting your head against the wall wondering how to find models to shoot? The technique is called Back Button Autofocus and it can really change the way you use your camera. Naturally, this is a case of personal preference, however, wouldn’t you like to see if you should add this tool to your arsenal?
One of the best uses for Back Button AF is when a static subject suddenly decides it’s time to run, leap, jump, or sprint.
Landscape photos really aren’t the type of subject that strike people as benefiting from this technique - after all, how tough can it be to focus on a landscape, right?
This entry was posted in Other Nikon stuff and tagged Steve Perry's videos, [NR] Guest Posts.
Useful information but I am under the impression that you can be in AF-S mode and the back focus button can simulate the AF-C mode. Hi Steve, so do you keep your finger on the AF Button to continuously focus while tracking a moving subject? I just recently started using this type of fucusing and still takes some getting used to, but i can certainly see it’s advantages.
What AF-Area mode (single, dynamic, etc) should you use with this technique if your subject is likely to move? This 10 min video (in Thai language) shows you in details how to disassemble a Nikon D7000 camera. Either way I still love my D7000, but I wish Nikon would hurry the eff up with my 60fps and manual liveview aperture firmware update.
Is everyone so hyped about this magnesium stuff, that they keep thinking (even though clearly stated in the press releases) that the entire body was mag alloy? As a native speaker, in the clip, he said that the top and back plates are magnesium alloy. I can still remember from the very beginning, it wasn’t going to be completely magnesium alloy. Somewhere I have seen a breakout of the camera on the Nikon website and it shows that the magnesium alloy is only on the top and down the back.
This is just a show case from a locally well-known independent camera service shop in Bangkok.
I have always read since the announcement that its only top and rear… Is that why so many people didnt need to see a D400, they thought the D7000 was already full mag alloy?
I have taken a D7000 down as well (I’m a camera technician)and i can confirm that the top and the back are the only magnesium-alloy. They may look a little feminine, but I do have to say they look darn handy when taking apart cameras. That Canon lens cap is laughing and saying: Hey Nikon, you sure got screwed by that repair guy! The front also has a large number of contours perpendicular to the primary plane, giving stiffness, again, without the use of more expensive materials. I will say that those horrid thread rolling screws, and would avoid having to deal with them unless I had a good supply of fresh ones.
Maybe I’m naive, but, is this really how they take apart a camera when they repair it?
I only hope that good repair shops and I seriously hope that the manufacturing plant handles the camera more delicately.
I could have told you about the not all metal part a long time ago… Nikon rep informed us before the camera was released. After all this he reassembled it (minus a few screws but included some added dust), put it back in the box and now it sits for some unsuspecting camera buff on a shelf at a local camera store.

I usually like your post, but this one about taking apart the Nikon D7000, was not your best day! Nikon D5200 Experience - The Still Photographer's Guide to Operation and Image Creation is an eBook user's guide and tutorial that goes beyond the D5200 manuals to help you learn when and why to use the various features, controls, and custom settings of this versatile camera. Learn to use your D5200, quickly and competently, to create the types of images you want to capture. This instant download Nikon D5200 e book is for those who wish to get more out of their camera, go beyond Auto and Program modes, and shoot in Aperture-Priority (A), Shutter-Priority (S) and Manual (M) modes. Nikon D5200 Experience not only covers the various settings, functions and controls of the Nikon D5200, but it also explains when and why to use them for your photography.
This digital guide to the Nikon D5200 is an 195 page, illustrated PDF document that expands upon the information found in the D5200 manual, to help one begin to master their dSLR and learn to use the Nikon D5200 to its full capabilities! Nikon D5200 Experience is a downloadable PDF file, which can be viewed on a number of devices a€“ laptop and desktop computers, iPhone or Android devices, iPads, and other tablets. For iPad specific users, you can download this ebook (or any pdf document) directly to iBooks, which will allow you to access it at any time. The camera adjusts the shutter speed and aperture, and gives you the option to adjust a few other settings (which we'll explain). The one we found most useful was the Easy Panorama effect, which automatically stitches together multiple images you have shot into a wide, panoramic photo. You adjust ISO manually by pressing the "i" button, then selecting ISO from the settings menu.
An aperture of f5.6 or lower produces a shallow depth of field that blurs out the background, keeping focus on your subject. Having more of the scene in focus is also useful when shooting a group of people or any scene with important subjects at varying distances from your camera. Most of the time, you can leave this on Matrix mode, in which the camera judges the light in several parts of the image and picks the settings for an even exposure. Turn the Mode Dial to EFFECTS and then press the MENU button to access the Picture Control settings. In this video, I’m showing you how to setup your camera to take the 3 differently exposed shots you will need to create an HDR photo.
I have had my D50 for severl years now and have never been completely satisfied with the pictures from it.
Rather than autofocusing with your shutter release, you move the autofocus function exclusively to a button on the back of the camera. It’s a fantastic alternative to switching between single shot AF for static subjects or continuous AF for action.
As a wildlife and landscape photographer, Back Button AF really comes in handy, but keep in mind it's just as effective on portraits, sports, street, architecture, or whatever style of photography you enjoy.
You’ll find that going from static shots to action shots isn’t just instantaneous, it will also become instinctive in a very short amount of time. This started off with him simply posing for a few portraits, and then he took off running after a female.
This egret was busy flying from spot to spot on this little pond, so when he came close I knew what would happen. This coyote was busy hunting and Back Button AF made it simple to grab focus and recompose for portrait shots, and then instantly switch to continuous AF when he pounced. No worries, just focus on the point you want, release the AF button, recompose and shoot all you like. Just seconds before this shot I had been using an AF point just above center to photograph one of the fawns as she moved towards me. In this situation, I needed to find a focus point that would keep both the rock in foreground sharp as well as the lighthouse (at my selected aperture).
For this shot, I wanted to focus on the rock just in front of where the waterfall breaks over the edge of the cliff.
Well explained, however, another advantage is in the case of a creature that might be walking through tall grass. I’ve been trying to figure it out with trial and error as well as a web search, but remain confused. Also if I set it for one shot do I have to set it each time for the next shot if nothing has changed? I take a lot of pictures of fiddly kids; I think it will make composing my photos so much easier. This should not be done by the average consumer, only by Nikon or a Nikon authorized repair center. After several firmware upgrade attempts… the only way you can really get rid of them… is to find those bastards and kill them! And I can assure you that not every repair shop handles a delicate thing like that because I have worked at a repair shop. The Nikon D5200 is a sophisticated and customizable tool, and this guide explains how to start to use it to its full capability.
To get you started, it guides you through all the Playback, Shooting, and Setup Menus, Custom Settings, and Movie Mode Menu settings of the D5200 to help you best set up the camera and its controls for your specific shooting needs. The guide focuses on still-photography with an introduction to the movie settings and menus to get you up and running with HD video.
It is packed with helpful information applicable to the new and intermediate dSLR photographer - to start to turn you into an advanced digital photographer! Click here for a very handy guide that shows you exactly how to put this book into your iBooks app. Here are the main controls for the Nikon D3300 and how you can harness them to get better pictures.
You can raise the ISO in dim or dark lighting situations, but this produces graininess, called noise, in the images, so proceed with caution.
If Matrix isn't giving you the results you want, you can try Center Weighted or Spot Metering mode, or adjust the exposure compensation. But in low light, photos can have an orangey cast that you can fix using a custom white balance. We recommend staying with the default SD (Standard) setting, as this produces the most-accurate and true-to-life colors.

Then select Retouch to apply effects like Monochrome and Color Sketch, plus Filter effects that can enhance some (or all) colors.
It cuts out the 100s of pages typical of user manuals and dedicated photography books, and gets straight to the point. The trick is to keep the camera steady as you change settings so be sure to have it on a solid surface. When you first hear about this technique, it’s natural to greet the idea with a bit of uncertainty, but once you get used to focusing with this method, you may never go back.
Oh, and don’t worry - nearly every Nikon DSLR supports the feature and the video shows you exactly how to set it up. By the way, all were resized using my web sharpening technique you can find on my YouTube channel. Beats trying to switch back and forth from single shot AF to continuous AF, that’s for sure.
Back Button AF allowed me to shoot portraits by focusing and recomposing until I could see he was ready to take off. The focus will stay at that point no matter how many times your finger comes off of the shutter release. I was easily able to switch from tracking the bull as he moved to focusing and recomposing when he stopped. I went from tracking her to making this portrait without worrying about whether I was in AF single or AF continuous focus. When the next one walked up, my AF point was in the wrong spot, but no worries, I quickly focused on an eye, let go of the AF-On button, recomposed, and shot the photo. It allows you to focus on one spot in the photo, recompose, and shoot - all without the need to repeat the process each time you take your finger off the shutter release.
So, I found a spot on land that was just the right distance, focused, and released the AF-On button.
The camera’s auto focus points can sometimes get confused and pick up the foreground grass rather than the subject. It’s also very useful for video recording, because you can refocus whenever you want.
I agree with the writer, it does take some time to adjust, but in the end it makes for a far smoother, more natural, and more controlled process.
It will help you begin to take control of your camera, the image taking process, and the photos you create. The guide covers basic dSLR camera functions and exposure concepts for those new to digital SLR photography, and explains more advanced camera controls and operation, such as taking full advantage of the upgraded, advanced 39-Point Autofocus System and its AF Modes, AF Area Modes, and Custom Settings for sharp focus of still and moving subjects.
However, as you get more comfortable with photography, Manual mode can help you get difficult shots in which you want a particular effect that the camera can't execute on its own.
One thing I would like to better understand about the D3300 is why under extremely bright light it will use a higher-than-expected ISOs (~320)?
I’ve been using it for years, and I’m confident in saying that this technique has helped me land some of my best shots. In a split second my finger was holding down the AF-On button and I was tracking the takeoff. I just locked focus on the eye, took my finger off the AF-On button, recomposed, and took the shot anytime she looked my way. Had I been on continuous AF, I would have had to either move my AF point to one of their eyes or switch to single shot AF. This is especially handy if the spot you want to focus on isn’t under one of your AF sensors. From there, I composed the photo and shot away, never worrying about refocusing or recomposing.
With AF-On I didn't need to worry about the need to refocus and recompose each time my finger left the shutter release.
I can’t recommend it enough; the only annoying part is having to switch back to the half-shutter mode when you want to let people use your camera!
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It explains how and when to use the various metering modes and exposure compensation for correct exposure of every image, how to take advantage of other features of the D5200 such as the in-camera HDR and Time-Lapse Shooting features, and introduces the HD video capabilities. Then point the camera at a white or gray object, such as a piece of paper, and press the Shutter. However, this moment didn't last long, and the truth is I would have missed the shot because I was messing around with camera settings instead of shooting. Plus, it makes shooting with a tripod better, since you only need to focus and lock down once, not reset every time you take your finger off the shutter release.
However, when I recompose and press the shutter, the focus point lights red on a different spot. Just remember to switch back to Auto White Balance or measure a new white balance when you move on to a different setting.
In one review for this model I note a comment that the camera in AUTO mode is set to assume the flash is ON regardless of whether it actually fires, and that zooming in when this is the case can result in blurry photos.
It is true to my experience that with the kit zoom lens, even in very bright light (not backlit), I'm having a horrible time getting the camera to focus short of leaving it in sports mode or mounting it on a tripod. Does this suggest a faulty lens, faulty metering or both?One type of shooting scenario that seems particularly difficult with this camera pertains to shooting birds.
This makes it nearly impossible to capture a bird in a tree in focus short of a completely unobstructed view.
Unless the bird is sitting perfectly still and I use the center-point method, I don't get good focus shooting into a tree even when the subject is brightly lit.Does the aforementioned difficulty have to do with the fact that the D3300 apparently has only ONE cross-lined AF sensor (at the center)? Generally I find that with any subject using any other AF method other than center point is lacking. Taking a bird in a tree off the center AF where the cross-link is located generally results in loss of focus quality!

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