When we travel to a place we don’t know, more than one of us enjoys taking pictures of the landscape. Sometimes, a regular photo isn’t enough to capture all the beauty from a landscape, and in those cases we should take a panoramic photo. Let’s start with the basics: A panoramic photo is comprised of several horizontal images, or even vertical ones.
When taking panoramic photos, you can either opt for using a tripod or simply hold the camera in your hands. And this is the last step, if we took the pictures with an intelligent mode of our camera, it’s not necessary to do anything but to copy them to the hard drive.
After putting the pictures together, we should have a single, very wide picture, with the height of a common photo. Popular Posts Best Monitor for Photo Editing and Photography (August 2016) (58) Canon EOS 70D vs 7D Comparison, What’s the difference between them? The Panorama camera is one of the better features of the iPhone Camera app, it makes taking incredible high-quality panoramic pictures ridiculously easy without adding any additional apps to your iPhone. Panoramic pictures are stored in the Photos app Camera Roll as usual, and you can email or send them through messages as you’d expect. That shot of Zion would be an excellent wallpaper for multimonitors if it was just a tad larger and the artifacts weren’t on the edge there. An easy way to import the original is by turning on the automatic photo import feature of Dropbox.
Commercial photographer Cynthia Farr-Weinfeld explains the secrets of taking great panoramic photographs.
If you're like many photographers, you may feel that panoramic photography is somewhere on par with completing your 1040EZ tax form every year. As someone who has made every mistake possible while trying to understand the art and science of making panoramas, I'm here to tell you that it isn't rocket science. By the time you finish reading this article, you're going to be grabbing your camera bag and rushing out the door to try it for yourself. The first step in the whole process of course, is selecting a suitable landscape to photograph.
And while it's also nice to have a ballhead, a good 360 degree rotating head that can support your camera in vertical orientation will usually do the trick. The third step is to put your camera in vertical (portrait) orientation, making absolutely certain that your tripod and camera are completely level.
Just like any other time, start by focusing one-third of the way into the landscape or architectural piece you want to photograph. Most techniques in photography can be adapted and changed to suit the photographer, the camera, the location and the customer. 3) For camera settings, never use the flash and force your camera to use the same white balance setting for all shots.
4) For each shot rotate your camera around an imaginary point located at the approximate center of where you think your image sensor is located. I love taking panorama’s and often stack them horizontally and vertically to create a larger file which looks much more impressive when printed large on canvas. RAW rather than JPEG is unquestionably going to give someone better image processing control although yes, it does mean additional work. If this NPP rotation is not done then there WILL be parallax in overlapping images, unless everything in your scene is exactly the same distance away. Specialist panoramic heads will help you rotate properly, although with most you will need to do some test work and adjustment to get them set up perfectly for your camera and lens combo. The reason for using very wide-angle lenses or fisheye lenses for panorama shooting is to minimise the number of shots required.
If anyone is serious about trying to make good end results from image stitching then EVERY setting on the camera should be set to manual. I have heard that the camera has to rotate around the aperature (entrance pupil) to avoid parallex error.  Does anyone have experience with this? Taking it father than shooting, what are the most important points to consider when deciding to print and display a panorama?
For large display, the composite image would need to be good enough resolution to suit the size of print you want to create. If you shoot with a 50mm lens and a full-frame sensor you get around 40x27 degrees of view. For a 90-degree panoramic view (moderately wide, nothing extreme) you’ll need five shots. If you shoot with a 28mm wide angle lens and a full-frame sensor the viewing angle is around 65x46 degrees.
How do I get an 11 shot pana to a better size, mine is so fricking long it would cover a bus. Panoramas are a great way of capturing scenes which are too wide (or too tall) to fit inside the viewfinder of a conventional landscape or portrait layout. Panoramic pictures can be created by taking several photos of the scene from a single viewpoint, and then stitching these images together to create a much larger single image.
Luckily for you as an iPhone photographer, you don’t have to stitch your photos together manually which would likely end up with messy joins between each photo.
As with any photograph, there should be a reason for including (or excluding) subject matter.
For example, a beautiful landscape, a wide beach scene, a large group of friends or family, a long vehicle or ship would all make excellent panoramic photographs. While there are many panoramic apps available to download in the App Store, the Pano feature in the native camera app does a great job of creating panoramas. Below I’ll guide you through each step of creating a panoramic photo, including shooting tips and making sure you get the exposure right.

Start by opening the native camera app, then swipe through the different shooting modes, e.g.
If the start of the shot is much darker or lighter than the rest of the scene, you will end up with some parts of the panorama noticeably under or over-exposed. What you’re looking for is a part of the scene that is not too dark and not too light – this is the area of the scene that you should normally expose for to get a balanced exposure.
Once you’ve found an area of medium brightness in the scene, point your iPhone at it, then and tap and hold the screen at that point.
If you want to start your panoramic shot from the left, ensure the arrow is pointing to the right.
Point your iPhone at the starting position of your panoramic photo and press the shutter button to start shooting. Once you reach your end position you can stop the procedure in one of two ways – either press the shutter button again or reverse the panning direction by moving your camera back a short way in the opposite direction.
The latter method is preferred because you are less likely to shake the iPhone and it doesn’t require you to change the position of your hands. It seems counter-intuitive, but it’s true – you can take vertical panoramic photos with your iPhone too.
The Pano feature behaves exactly the same way as when you’re shooting a horizontal scene – you start and stop it the same way, you keep the arrow close to the line and you keep the iPhone moving until you’ve finished. In the example photos below you’ll see that you can use this vertical panoramic technique to create a sense of drama or scale.
The example on the far right tends to create a feeling of discomfort or unsteadiness as the ground appears at both the bottom and the top of the photo. This 180 degree panoramic view was created by panning up from the ground, and then over in an arc across the sky above, and finally back down to the ground on the opposite side to the start point. The iPhone’s camera app copes very well with hand-held panoramic photography, but if you’re struggling to hold the camera steady enough to keep that arrow on the line, you may need some extra support to prevent the camera from shaking about too much.
If you don’t have a tripod to hand, don’t worry – there are other ways to keep the camera steady.
Hold your iPhone against your chosen support and check that the support swings far enough to include all of your subject. As well as taking dramatic, wide landscape shots, you can also have a lot of fun with the iPhone’s panoramic feature. Pretty soon the person will appear in the frame again as your iPhone pans towards their new position. When you stop the panoramic capture you’ll see that the person appears in the photo twice! If you pan for long enough and your subject is quick enough, you might even be able to get them in the frame more than twice! Finally, there’s one important consideration to bear in mind when taking panoramic photos.
You would only hold the iPhone in landscape orientation if you wanted to create a vertical panorama.
By taking the advantage of the panorama feature, you can capture a wide or tall object in a single photo. There will be a directional arrows, it will prompt you to pan left or right in landscape view, or pan up or down in potrain view.
So, that’s it, our tutorial on how to take a photo of wide objects using panorama feature on HTC One. Some places are beautiful, and there’s nothing better than save them in our camera to enjoy them later in our computer, our TV or, of course, print them. The combination of these gives us a wider vision in comparison with a normal photo, and it also mimics what we see when we turn our head. It doesn’t have to be just from a viewpoint, the center of a city is also a good choice, for example, or wide monuments, like a palace.
The important thing is to be creative and look for places that allow us to take a great picture. The latter gives us more freedom, however, me must be careful not to move too much, otherwise we will most likely have to crop or edit our picture a little bit so it matches. It’s easy to use, we will avoid moving unnecessarily, and mounting pictures is really easy since all of them should have been taken in the same axis, we only had to move the camera horizontally. So we have two choices: draw imaginary lines and take picture by picture indivually, or use an intelligent mode for this purpose, if our camera has a function for that.
They give good results for a quick job if you’ll later post-process it, but the best results are achieved by taking each picture separately and then merge them into one in the PC. Later, as if it were a collage, we’ll need to set every picture on different layers like a puzzle. If we didn’t use a tripod, however, we may have to edit the images, like adjust them to respect the axis. If you move too quickly the camera won’t have time to adjust properly to lighting changes, and artifacts can appear on the final image either in the form of black pixels for areas that are missed or out of the guide line, or in the form of chunky transitions.
Subscribe to the OSXDaily newsletter to get more of our great Apple tips, tricks, and important news delivered to your inbox! I use a very old Bogen 3011 tripod and a Manfrotto 3025 panoramic attachment for my panoramas, but I have made do without the panoramic head for years successfully, and sometimes still don't use it at all. To help with this, I use an Adorama Double Bubble Level, which looks a lot like a very small carpenter's level, and attaches in the hot shoe of your camera. I own a panasonic FZ50 so i cant use a wide angle so i stitch everything.I also include HDR so a 20 image panoramic turns out to use 60 images with the different exposures. I haven’t done any panoramas for my photo a day project, and I am now tempted to remedy that. As usually, someone is eager to post another method, taking you to task for not doing it his way. This means that you need to rotate your body around the camera instead of simply standing in one spot and rotating your body.

I have observed many of your panoramic photos with awe and can’t wait to try it out myself.
Can you load in raw files to edit afterwards as a whole, and are they kept in raw format after the pano is made?
You do the work you wish to do on the file, then save as a JPEG, TIFF or other end result file. I do lots of panoramas with DSLR, pocket camera (EX2F) and sometimes with mobile phone (Samsung Nexus). If nothing’s particularly near then it may be negligible, but it is bad practise for pano shooting all the same. Well, put *very* simply, it’s the point at which the light rays converge and cross within the lens optics. I know that many image stitchers will try to compensate for exposure differences, but you’re never going to get the best, most believable composite results if you rely on that. Use your phone camera if necessary, and use a stitching app for on-the-spot convenience as well as trying it on a regular computer with more powerful software.
If you use the photo exhibition resolution rule of thumb of around 240 pixels per inch (ppi), a five-foot-wide print would need to be around 14400 pixels wide.
Assuming you’re shooting in portrait mode and you go for around 30% overlap, you get just under 20 degrees of coverage, side to side, per shot. On an 18MP camera this gives around 20,000 pixels… and that will go up to about 7ft wide, no problem.
Or you’ve attempted to take a group photo but can’t fit everyone into the frame?
Although you’ll see later that we can also create vertical panoramic photos which are much taller than they are wide. This feature is very easy to use and produces great results, as long as you follow a few simple guidelines which we’ll look at shortly. Once you know what you want to include (and exclude) from the scene you’re ready to proceed with taking your panoramic shot.
The camera will choose it’s exposure based on how light or dark the scene is at the start of the panoramic shot. It’s best not to expose for a very bright or very dark area of the scene as this will likely end up under or over-exposing your image as you pan. Simply rotate your iPhone horizontally so that you’re holding it in landscape orientation and instead of panning horizontally, pan vertically – from low to high or high to low. Remember that you still need to allow the camera to rotate and pan freely, so ensure your tripod isn’t locked up too tightly in the horizontal plane (or vertical if you’re doing a vertical panorama). With the help of a friend, you can take a wide angle shot with the person in the frame multiple times. The files sizes of these pictures will be considerably larger than an ordinary photo due to its increased number of pixels. You may say this is counter intuitive and it is, I just cant figure out how to get back to landscape mode for doing this, somehow the phone settings must have changed.
That’s why having on-screen rulers to guide us and correctly adjust the pictures in the correst position. If doesn’t matter if you did it manually or with an intelligent mode, we want to know about your creations and stories.
You can see an example of the chunky transition artifacting that can occur from a quick motion at the far right corner of this otherwise very nice sample panorama image from an iPhone 5. The original panoramic photos are gigantic, coming in around a whopping 20,000 x 4000 pixels, so be prepared for iPhone storage space to disappear rapidly if you take a lot of these.
What you DO have to do is move the phone consistently along that line – whatever direction that might be. Other people use more technical equipment, like the Panosaurus or the Nodal Ninja, both of which allow one to be very precise.
RAW allows you the ability to really get the most out of each file, whereas even high-quality jpegs have discarded much of the workable information that is left in a RAW file.
It can help to dangle a length of string from the lens, weighted with a key or trapped by something on the ground, as that’ll give you a point of reference when you turn between shots.
But if you want to capture a scene where there’s any significant movement then go for as wide angle a lens as you can find.
The results are a little over 10,000 pixels wide and 5,000 pixels high, and if I see any sign of stitching flaws of any kind I regard it as a failure. In these situations you can get around this problem by creating extra-wide panoramic shots. As soon as the person is out of the frame, ask them to run round behind you and find somewhere to stand to your right.
Please not that some camera feature, such as zooming, are not available while taking panorama photo. Twenty minutes to half an hour after sunset (or before dawn), the sky and clouds have an incredible glow that can range from deep pastel colors all the way to the most intriguing blues and violets. Panoramas can be taken also without tripod but there should be no items close to the camera. But always go for 25-30% overlap, and beware leaving a shot out – it’s very annoying when that happens! If you’re shooting a landscape with very little foreground then it matters much less.

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