The beauty and the magic of the night sky is taken to a new level when properly combined with a beautiful landscape. In the past few years I was fortunate enough to capture some photos that have something to say. The first photo tells us the story of a new astrophotographer trying to catch Earth’s celestial companion aligned with one of the most important monuments of the ancient world, the temple of Poseidon. The second photo is a story of a cataclysmic storm that took place a few hours during the total lunar eclipse at June 15 2011. I you think that it would be helpful to include something more, I’m open to suggestions.
1) I have seen in one of your startrails shots that there is a little star effect at the end of the startail which I presume, the last shot was taken using a much smaller aperture. 2) I am trying to stack images of the milky way using Deep sky stacker (I do not mount the camera to track the earth?s movement) but all my attempts are unsuccessful. Hello Chris, I just saw your Halloween picture on APOD congratulations A great composition. My name is Chris and my idea of having fun is to be out in the cold, in the middle of the night taking photos of the stars! My equipment was humble, a cheap 70 euro telescope coupled with a mid range DSLR tied with a rope(!) to a small tripod.
Typically you will be shooting in nice sceneries away from the city lights that cover the most of the star light (if not all!). They don’t have the flexibility of a zoom lens but they are generally sharper and faster than zoom lenses. Set it wide open to capture as much photons as you can in the short period of time before trailing start to show.

If you plan to shoot startrails have in mind that your camera should operate continuously for hours. I know it helps to start with a dark sky, and I suppose you are possibly stacking images, but what are you specific camera settings for that shot? The problem is that you only have 30 – 40 seconds before the star trails start to show in your photo. I started experimenting with photography about 1 year ago and i have tried LOTS of different styles. I am curious to know where that spooky house is and whether you will be publishing any more shots of it. The Moon, the planets, the constellations and the Milky Way are not only favorite photographic targets but also source of pure inspiration! The photographers are story tellers and the story of the twinkling stars is perhaps the most exciting! I use a crop 1,6 camera (canon 550D) and most of the time I take photos with a 15mm fisheye lens. Where I live, Washington,DC, if I travel 3 hours to a dark site I can barely make out the galaxy naked eye and can’t pick it up in a photo. Leave a bright flash light or your car light a few hundred meters away and try to focus on that or if this is not possible maybe a Bahtinov Mask would help. Have in mind that at night sky photography most of the action takes place at the sky, therefore you should have a wide field of view to include the foreground and a large part of the sky. Usually at this kind of photography we only shoot the celestial objects without an earthy foreground as it will blur from the mount’s motion).
I create a new layer in photoshop with the last photo of the star trail sequence and I blow up the stars.

I’ve clicked on the link for the tutorial and it just takes me back to the gallery page. Anyway, i am looking forword to get myself a fisheye adaptor (x0.45) , since fisheye and ultra wide lenses are REAAALY pricey. In a light polluted area or in a moonlit scene you will probably use a lower ISO like 200 or 400. If you move the camera even slightly to review a photo or to change a battery your photos will be misaligned and the final result blurry and inaccurate. This has to do with my personal shooting style and with the fact that in night photography you have to consider the fact that your main subject is the sky, so if you want to include both the landscape and plenty of sky, then you need wide field lens. I’d like to get some pointers on how you created the shot so I can incorporate some of them into my own images. Just so you know, fisheye adaptors cost about 30€ and you can attach them in front an existing lens. If it doesn’t, set the focus manually close to infinity (strangely at DSLR cameras stars do not focus perfectly at infinity…) and then do some try and error attempts adjusting the focus and inspecting the photo until the stars are sharp dots. If you want to go further and shoot for hours consider an AC Power Adapter or a big external 12V battery coupled with an adapter cable.

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