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EDIT: I am looking for scenario where downtown is in the background and person is in front. EDIT: I am including the picture I took with Chicago downtown in the background and my friend in the foreground. I don't have any fast lenses so I can't say how much of a difference a fast lens will make, however I know that proper support makes a big difference! The hour before sunset is called the blue hour and gives you very rich dark blues in the sky.
Fast lenses are good, and will allow you to get candids by streetlight with a high ISO but to get really good night photos you really need some kind of camera support. Camera support doesn't have to be a huge tripod, your Rebel has the advantage of being lightweight so you could use a compact tripod or something like a GorillaPod which is more versatile and easy to carry around.
You will also (if you have a choice) want to shoot in the first hour past sunset or the hour before sunrise for the best lighting.
Apart from sensor size, what D-SLR you have won't significantly affect your ability to take low-light photographs.
Responding directly to your sample image, all you need to add is a tripod provided your subject is willing to stand still (as he apparently is). Not the answer you're looking for?Browse other questions tagged canon night or ask your own question.
One of the reasons enthusiasts purchase digital SLR cameras, is to take night photographs in and around the city without them resulting in blurred or shaky images.
If you have a tripod handy, set the ISO to the lowest setting your digital SLR camera will go. If you absolutely need to hand hold your camera, the only choice of SLR settings you have for night photography is to set it to P (Program) and up the ISO to 800 - 1600.
I recognised this instantly and reshot the photograph using a slower shutter speed of 15 seconds. If you don't have a tripod handy, the other option is to up the ISO to 800 or 1600, then keep the shutter speed fast. The ISO was kept to a high image quality 100, while the shutter speed set to a slow 30 seconds. A frequently asked question beginners often ask is, where should they focus for night shots.
Even more so than the Rebel T3i, the EOS Rebel T3 is designed to be the “move up” camera for the shooter dipping his or her toes into the digital SLR waters for the first time. Since Nik Software’s Dfine applies noise reduction to a separate layer, you can adjust the Opacity layer in Photoshop’s Layers palette to find a balance between noise and sharpness. The Rebel T3’s ergonomics are similar to the T3i’s, but not completely because the latter camera’s BG-E8 battery grip is not a listed accessory. Road trips: For this test I headed down to Castle Rock, Colorado, a wonderful town located midway between Denver and Colorado Springs for their annual Cruise In that features all manner of cars from hot rods to high-end imports.
Next stops on the Rebel T3 tour were Utah and New Mexico, making this camera the most traveled and most extensively tested of any SLR I’ve written about in recent years. The T3’s pop-up flash is controlled by pushing a fashionably styled but hard to see black-on-black button that’s located behind the control wheel on the front of the camera, near the shutter release. Like its slightly more upscale brother the Rebel T3i, the T3 is an inherently honest camera that provides a gateway—bridge if you will—from point-and-shoot digicams to a real jumping up and down digital SLR.
Since I don’t have an SD card reader in my travel kit, I hooked the EOS Rebel T3 directly to my MacBook Pro using the provided cable but got a “camera not recognized” from Canon’s software.
The lens features UD glass for suppression of chromatic aberration, a Subwavelength coating for reduced ghosting, and a newly developed Fluorine coating that keeps soiling, smears, and fingerprints to a minimum. Tip: Remove the lens hood when shooting at the 8mm setting, especially with a full-frame camera because although it creates a circular image, it will vignette at the top. Hey, you utilized to compose superb, though the previous few content have been kinda boring?Nited kingdom My spouse and i overlook your current great writings. ISO range from 100 to 6400 without any dirty dancing involving so-called “extended” settings. As its a picture segment where we are describing about the beauty of taking pictures whether it is cars or nature or anything. I'd love to take some photography lessons if I can get away from the fast paced finance industry for a day!
Intro: How to take AWESOME night photos WITHOUT a tripodThis instructable will teach you how to use the normal digital camera you already own to take night photos that are not blurry, and without a tripod.
Step 3: Pick your ponies, and brag to the local photo developerLoad all the images into your computer, and start looking at them one at a time.
I wrote this instructable because I am not a pro photographer, and I thought these tips might help some people get some better night shots with their digital camera.
Any sort of bracing, especially nearer my hands, helps a lot.This instructable is a waste of time.
Obviously there is no one right answer but for just what it's worth I am picking one of them. The higher it is, the more amplification you're giving to the various types of sensor noise.

There is a short period of time between day and night, when the sky is not dark yet and when the city lights are already on. Using flash will ensure that you have the main subject sharp and well lit and the long exposure will allow you to capture the background.
When using tripod you should get well rendered sharp background, when shoting hand-held the background will be blurred - but you can use it to your advantage, for example light paining - it adds a more dynamic feel to the photo. This will allow longer exposures without camera shake, but more importantly it will let you blend multiple exposures together in order to even out the lighting (when your lightsources are in the frame e.g. This will cause more noise, but you will want to take that hit to get the higher shutter speed you need to get a clean shot. A full frame sensor will make a difference, but the first you must do is buy fast, quality lenses. He's using the slow kit lens and I know for myself that it struggles in comparison to faster lenses. You could add a fill flash but that introduces difficulties matching the foreground and background lighting. However, as you'll soon find out, it's not as easy as setting your digital camera to automatic and shooting the image.
This allows the camera enough time to let light in to the sensor, without increasing your ISO setting.
This time the SLR camera was given more time to allow the light in to the sensor, resulting in a clearly focused night shot that you can see below.
However, the quality of the night shot will be grainy or noisy, and is usually not recommended. The night photograph was taken from a 260 meter-high Sydney Lookout Tower where tripods were forbidden. I just tested the EOS Rebel T3i, which I really, really liked, and along comes this review of the EOS Rebel T3. Yet, it’s a camera that can be handled by anyone, including aspiring pros, and lets you make great-looking photographs under all kinds of lighting conditions with ease. While not perfect, the EOS Rebel’s Auto White Balance (AWB) setting was almost right on with the mixed lighting conditions at the museum.
You can shoot in continuous mode up to 3 fps (frames per second), just slightly slower than the T3i’s 3.7 fps.
That’s the lens I mostly used to test the camera and it features wide-angle to mid-range zoom flexibility with the advantage of Canon’s optical lens-shift Image Stabilization (IS) system that should yield up to a full four stops of shake correction. On the final image, I set the Opacity at 50 percent and while some slight noise is visible in the finished file, I doubt it will show when reproduced on the magazine page.
Too bad, but I’m guessing that price point was the big issue and Canon wanted to keep the T3’s price as affordable as possible. I cheated by using Photoshop’s Liquify tool to make the brick column at right straight; the curved stripe in the road (caused by the fisheye lens) I left alone. The pop-up flash does a good job as fill for close-up outdoor portraits but for indoor or full-length outdoor portraits, you need more power so take a look at one of Canon’s EX Speedlites. A download link from Canon’s website offers updates that, when I tested the camera, were not compatible with Mac OS Lion, but works fine for previous Mac OS versions. The lens was designed for photographers who want the kind of look and feel only possible with extreme wide-angle and fisheye photography.
That’s good because the curved front element precludes the use of any kind of protection filter. That solves one problem—vignetting—but creates another one because it sticks that bulbous front element out even further into the slipstream. The condo’s facilities provide full family entertainment needs for your family and loved ones. I've got minis that I bought for a dollar, a C-clamp style, and a light-weight full-size) I get a lot less jitter if I use the Custom drive mode to take one shot after one second.
It is so full of text and all he really wanted to say is play with settings and take many pictures and choose the best one.
I would be also interested to know how we take good shots of landscapes just with moonlight. Lowering the ISO only results in less noise if you get more light down the lens to compensate. You can reduce or compensate for camera motion with a tripod or image stabilization, but this won't help if your subject is moving. You can get lower noise and higher ISO with a more expensive camera, but even still there are limits to this. The table is burned in over 25 secs or so, then the face of the DJ is "popped" by the flash at the end of the exposure. Whereas on some SLR models, like the Nikon D40 for example, shutter priority is displayed as the letter S.
This should ensure your camera automatically sets the aperture to capture the whole scene in focus and not just closer objects. The Rebel T3 features a 12.2-megapixel CMOS image sensor, a DIGIC 4 Imaging Processor, a nine-point autofocus system, and a 63-zone dual-layer metering system. The camera is compatible with SD, SDHC, or the new extended capacity SDXC memory cards that load from the same bottom compartment as the battery, just like many point-and-shoots.

The version II in the name indicates that this lens uses new IS algorithms that distinguish between normal photography and when the camera is panned to automatically provide the optimal level of image-shake correction. Above: Doing what might be called nighttime street photography, albeit in the well-lit and rain-slick streets of downtown Salt Lake City, there is some subject motion and even with an image stabilized lens some camera motion renders the image less than perfectly crisp, yet overall it fits the mood of the subject.
That said, there seems to be a tiny bit of difference in the build quality and materials used. Although the 11-18mm lens does not offer the latest Vibration Compensation (VC) features found in newer Tamron lenses, I was easily able to hand hold the Rebel T3 for three-shot bracketed sequences to make several ghost-free HDR shots of the cars assembled for the event. Yet, Mary and I found that the best part of shooting the Rebel T3 at night was having the flexibility to shoot what in some places might be called street photography. Not surprisingly, the Rebel T3 does not have a standard studio flash connection for a sync cord but I wanted to see how the camera worked in a studio setting. It’s always a good idea to download any available updates to camera software, especially if you’re running the new Lion OS.
Any other filter used must be gels that can be loaded into a rear holder that accepts up to three filters. This effect can be used creatively, but sometimes it is an annoyance and can ruin pictures, e.g.
An off-camera setup offers endless creative possibilities, but is less portable than on-camera flash.
You want your subject lit and well defined with the cityscape as a well-exposed, complimentary light source. ISO should be the last resort to getting light in the camera (not that higher ISO is not warranted). The Rebel T3 shoots 1280x720 HD movies—you knew it would have to do that—and features an honest ISO range from 100 to 6400 without any dirty dancing involving so-called “extended” settings. So there’s no need to choose IS modes, making the lens less challenging for new SLR shooters.
The T3i is definitely a slightly more expensive feeling camera and you can tell that when you pick it up.
On the other hand, the .CR2 (Raw) files produced by the Rebel T3 are compatible with the latest Adobe Camera Raw that will run on Lion. To make the vignetting disappear I only need to zoom in to 9mm as shown in the bottom image. On the other hand, the T3’s LP-E8 battery is the same as the T3i’s and should produce a maximum of 550 shots (200 if Live View is used). Get this: during the same sessions I also shot my EOS-1D Mark II N and the Rebel T3 consistently produced better color—reflected on its accurate LCD—than its more expensive albeit older sibling. Second, though fast lenses give you more light and thus speed up your exposure times, they also crush your DOF. From there you will be able to judge how slow the shutter speed needs to be for the rest of your photo's on that particular night.
I personally enjoy helping a new photography enthusiast as do many of the other professionals in the group. If I dial up the ISO high enough (say 1600) then I can walk around at night without a tripod and get some great stuff. The original author must have had super stable handheld technique because the shutter speed was very slow -- 0.6 seconds.
Most people, including most pro photographers, could never keep a camera steady for that long.
ISO 400 was the maximum available sensitivity on that camera, and I suspect f5.0 was the widest aperture available to the author at that focal length. The Olympus E-PL1 I used was a 12-megapixel mirrorless interchangeable lens camera from 2010 that maxed out at ISO 6400 -- and I've since replaced that one with an E-PL5 from late 2012 that maxes out at ISO 25600. And that goes double for low-light action shooting like sporting events indoors or at night under the stadium lights. Even the newer point-and-shoot cameras can take good photos at ISO 800 and usable photos at small sizes at ISO 1600. You should have had enough practice and experience with your camera beforehand to know its limits in terms of ISO and noise. Remember, though, a noisy photo is better than a blurry photo unless you are deliberately trying to blur the image. Tripods are always preferable for night shooting since they enable you to slow down the shutter speed and thus dial down the ISO to minimize noise -- but sometimes it's not practical to have a tripod. If you've already set the ISO and aperture, the light meter will then figure out the right shutter speed.
A cable release or remote will avoid hand vibrations, but you can use the self-timer to do this too. Stabilisation helps at night, but it also helps during the day when you are taking telephoto shots.

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