Photography Stack Exchange is a question and answer site for professional, enthusiast and amateur photographers. EDIT: I am looking for scenario where downtown is in the background and person is in front. EDIT: I am including the picture I took with Chicago downtown in the background and my friend in the foreground. I don't have any fast lenses so I can't say how much of a difference a fast lens will make, however I know that proper support makes a big difference! The hour before sunset is called the blue hour and gives you very rich dark blues in the sky. Fast lenses are good, and will allow you to get candids by streetlight with a high ISO but to get really good night photos you really need some kind of camera support.
Camera support doesn't have to be a huge tripod, your Rebel has the advantage of being lightweight so you could use a compact tripod or something like a GorillaPod which is more versatile and easy to carry around.
You will also (if you have a choice) want to shoot in the first hour past sunset or the hour before sunrise for the best lighting.
Apart from sensor size, what D-SLR you have won't significantly affect your ability to take low-light photographs. Responding directly to your sample image, all you need to add is a tripod provided your subject is willing to stand still (as he apparently is). Not the answer you're looking for?Browse other questions tagged canon night or ask your own question.
As i'm quite new and amateur in photography, can anyone advise or teach me on how to take night portrait shots with Canon S110? The terms ISO, Apeture and Shutter speed seems new to me even though i have google them and try to have a basic understanding. This forum is moderated by volunteer moderators who will react only to members' feedback on posts.
One of the reasons enthusiasts purchase digital SLR cameras, is to take night photographs in and around the city without them resulting in blurred or shaky images. If you have a tripod handy, set the ISO to the lowest setting your digital SLR camera will go.
If you absolutely need to hand hold your camera, the only choice of SLR settings you have for night photography is to set it to P (Program) and up the ISO to 800 - 1600. I recognised this instantly and reshot the photograph using a slower shutter speed of 15 seconds. If you don't have a tripod handy, the other option is to up the ISO to 800 or 1600, then keep the shutter speed fast. The ISO was kept to a high image quality 100, while the shutter speed set to a slow 30 seconds.


A frequently asked question beginners often ask is, where should they focus for night shots. I don't want to just take a tri-pod everywhere with me, since the camera has to be a slow shutter speed to take in all the light. Unless you want to create some special artistic expression based on blur and grain, you probably want tripod for night landscape and architecture. Tripod is best, but you can use the top ISO on your camera and still get decent result if you brace the camera when you shoot. Don't take this wrong, but it seems like you may need to learn how to use your camera better. Apples to apples, P&S cameras typically fire a flash at night unless you turn it off and you may be trying not to on your DSLR. If you don`t want to carry a tripod everywhere, look at the `Manfrotto Superclamp` these can be placed on park benches, fences, car doors, window frames , street signs etc. Obviously there is no one right answer but for just what it's worth I am picking one of them. The higher it is, the more amplification you're giving to the various types of sensor noise. There is a short period of time between day and night, when the sky is not dark yet and when the city lights are already on. Using flash will ensure that you have the main subject sharp and well lit and the long exposure will allow you to capture the background. When using tripod you should get well rendered sharp background, when shoting hand-held the background will be blurred - but you can use it to your advantage, for example light paining - it adds a more dynamic feel to the photo. This will allow longer exposures without camera shake, but more importantly it will let you blend multiple exposures together in order to even out the lighting (when your lightsources are in the frame e.g. This will cause more noise, but you will want to take that hit to get the higher shutter speed you need to get a clean shot. A full frame sensor will make a difference, but the first you must do is buy fast, quality lenses. He's using the slow kit lens and I know for myself that it struggles in comparison to faster lenses. You could add a fill flash but that introduces difficulties matching the foreground and background lighting. However, as you'll soon find out, it's not as easy as setting your digital camera to automatic and shooting the image.
This allows the camera enough time to let light in to the sensor, without increasing your ISO setting.
This time the SLR camera was given more time to allow the light in to the sensor, resulting in a clearly focused night shot that you can see below.


However, the quality of the night shot will be grainy or noisy, and is usually not recommended.
The night photograph was taken from a 260 meter-high Sydney Lookout Tower where tripods were forbidden. For night photography with really slow shutter speeds you need a tripod or a place were you can put the camera. I would be also interested to know how we take good shots of landscapes just with moonlight. Lowering the ISO only results in less noise if you get more light down the lens to compensate. You can reduce or compensate for camera motion with a tripod or image stabilization, but this won't help if your subject is moving.
You can get lower noise and higher ISO with a more expensive camera, but even still there are limits to this.
The table is burned in over 25 secs or so, then the face of the DJ is "popped" by the flash at the end of the exposure.
Whereas on some SLR models, like the Nikon D40 for example, shutter priority is displayed as the letter S.
This should ensure your camera automatically sets the aperture to capture the whole scene in focus and not just closer objects. This effect can be used creatively, but sometimes it is an annoyance and can ruin pictures, e.g. An off-camera setup offers endless creative possibilities, but is less portable than on-camera flash. You want your subject lit and well defined with the cityscape as a well-exposed, complimentary light source.
ISO should be the last resort to getting light in the camera (not that higher ISO is not warranted).
I know that the UV protector presents a small issue with taking night shots, and honestly, I don't want to just take a tri-pod everywhere with me, since the camera has to be a slow shutter speed to take in all the light.
Wide angle lenses are easier to use, because they are not prone to camea shake related blur as much as longer lenses. Second, though fast lenses give you more light and thus speed up your exposure times, they also crush your DOF.
From there you will be able to judge how slow the shutter speed needs to be for the rest of your photo's on that particular night.



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