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EDIT: I am looking for scenario where downtown is in the background and person is in front. EDIT: I am including the picture I took with Chicago downtown in the background and my friend in the foreground. I don't have any fast lenses so I can't say how much of a difference a fast lens will make, however I know that proper support makes a big difference!
The hour before sunset is called the blue hour and gives you very rich dark blues in the sky. Fast lenses are good, and will allow you to get candids by streetlight with a high ISO but to get really good night photos you really need some kind of camera support. Camera support doesn't have to be a huge tripod, your Rebel has the advantage of being lightweight so you could use a compact tripod or something like a GorillaPod which is more versatile and easy to carry around. You will also (if you have a choice) want to shoot in the first hour past sunset or the hour before sunrise for the best lighting.
Apart from sensor size, what D-SLR you have won't significantly affect your ability to take low-light photographs. Responding directly to your sample image, all you need to add is a tripod provided your subject is willing to stand still (as he apparently is). Not the answer you're looking for?Browse other questions tagged canon night or ask your own question.
Back when I reviewed the PowerShot SX40, I complained that it's performance -- especially in terms of autofocus -- was not competitive. There are four full resolution burst modes on the PowerShot SX50, though one of them (Continuous LV) is for manual focus and fireworks mode only, and will not be included in my chart below. First, the good news: the PowerShot SX50 can keep shooting until your (high speed) memory card fills up, even with RAW files. The minimum focusing distances range from 0 cm (that's not a typo) at full wide-angle up to about 30 cm at around the 20X position.
It's around Christmas time, so the San Francisco skyline has a few extra decorations, as you can see. With that in mind, there's a big jump in the thumbnails below, from ISO 80 to 800, then continuing all the way to 6400. Besides the fact that there's a fair amount of detail smudging at ISO 800, there's also a big change in color, with a noticeable green cast appearing at that point.
Can we make that ISO 1600 night shot look better by shooting RAW and doing some easy post-processing? There's very mild barrel distortion at the wide end of the SX50's 24 - 1200 mm lens -- most likely since Canon is correcting for this automatically. Okay, now it's time to see how the PowerShot SX50 performed across its ISO range in normal light. How To Control ISO Settings of Canon 1100D – Rebel T3 New to Canon 1100D - Rebel T3 , yes you are. Canon dived into a new dimension of fashion and portrait photography with its wide range of lenses, accessories, and printers. During the Canon Pro Night: Fashion Revolution, Ibarra Deri shared his expertise in lighting and portrait photography. The highlight of the night was the Shoot Out between topnotch photographers Wesley Villarica and Sara Black. The Money Shot: Team Wesley’s photo (R) won the applause of the audience versus Team Sara’s photo (L) after the two teams battled it out to capture the most stunning fashion photograph of the night, while defying the “fog” challenge using Canon’s latest EOS 5DSR. These days it is possible to take spectacular pictures of the night sky with regular cameras and equipment.
Unfortunately city lights prevent us from seeing much of the sky due to a phenomenon called light pollution. Exposure time set according to the Rule of 600 to avoid star trails due to the Earth rotation. Then I start taking pictures and refining the ISO and exposure times until I'm satisfied with the result. Exposure time: 60 seconds, using Magic Lantern, since the 60D does not allow programmable exposure times longer than 30 seconds.


I went out the city to star gaze tonight and my camera would not set to the bulb setting even with magic latern or the settings you recommended. Obviously there is no one right answer but for just what it's worth I am picking one of them. The higher it is, the more amplification you're giving to the various types of sensor noise. There is a short period of time between day and night, when the sky is not dark yet and when the city lights are already on.
Using flash will ensure that you have the main subject sharp and well lit and the long exposure will allow you to capture the background. When using tripod you should get well rendered sharp background, when shoting hand-held the background will be blurred - but you can use it to your advantage, for example light paining - it adds a more dynamic feel to the photo. This will allow longer exposures without camera shake, but more importantly it will let you blend multiple exposures together in order to even out the lighting (when your lightsources are in the frame e.g. This will cause more noise, but you will want to take that hit to get the higher shutter speed you need to get a clean shot.
A full frame sensor will make a difference, but the first you must do is buy fast, quality lenses. He's using the slow kit lens and I know for myself that it struggles in comparison to faster lenses. You could add a fill flash but that introduces difficulties matching the foreground and background lighting.
Canon must have been listening, as they've reduced focus times by 50% on the SX50, and shutter lag by 44%.
While I used manual exposure to bring in enough light here, you can do the same by using Smart Auto or one of the scene modes. First, it'll fire the AF-assist lamp a second or so before the photo is taken, with the goal of shrinking your subject's pupils. There's some very slight corner blurring in real world photos, and thankfully no sign of vignetting (dark corners). As usual, I'm using our standard studio test scene, which means that you can compare the results with other cameras I've tested over the years (Panasonic FZ200, anyone?). While there isn't much of an increase in noise at ISO 400, the photo does get noticeably softer. That's what you get back by shooting RAW here, and it's a welcome sight compared to the soft mess that is the JPEG. Have a look at our photo gallery, maybe printing a few of them if you'd like, and then decide if the SX50's photo quality meets your expectations! Other Crusaders of Light and Canon Evangelists such as Jun De Leon, Jo Avila, Jun Miranda, Ely Teehankee, Dino Lara, Ernie Sarmiento, Wig Tysmans, Jay Tablante, and Jijo De Guzman were also present to share their own photography tips with the attendees. Skill and ingenuity were tested using the array of Canon cameras and accessories available, producing stunning images despite challenging settings. For example, I took the above picture with a Canon 60D DSLR and an entry level 8mm fisheye lens (click on the picture to see a larger version). You obviously need a tripod or some other form of support that can keep the camera fixed through the exposure.
You want to do this after sunset and on days when there is no moon, so that the only light comes from the stars. The idea is to use the smallest ISO (since the higher the ISO the higher the noise) and keep the exposure time near the value indicated by the rule of 600 to avoid star trails.
There are nice DIY solutions on the internet like barndoor mounts or little mounts based on mechanical clockwork (purus mount).
I would be also interested to know how we take good shots of landscapes just with moonlight. Lowering the ISO only results in less noise if you get more light down the lens to compensate. You can reduce or compensate for camera motion with a tripod or image stabilization, but this won't help if your subject is moving.
You can get lower noise and higher ISO with a more expensive camera, but even still there are limits to this. The table is burned in over 25 secs or so, then the face of the DJ is "popped" by the flash at the end of the exposure.


The bad news is that the burst rate isn't terribly impressive, especially if RAW images are involved. There isn't too much highlight clipping here, with even the US Bank sign being sort-of legible.
As on some of their other recent cameras (such as the PowerShot G15), they lock the ISO at 80 if the shutter speed is below 1.3 seconds. Remember that the crops below only show a small area of the total scene, so view the full size images too! After some easy clean-up work in Photoshop, that ISO 3200 shot has gone from useless to usable. The solution is to use the DR Correction feature that I mentioned earlier, though keep in mind that noise levels will increase as a result. In this article I'll give you a few simple rules you need to follow to maximize the chances of getting breathtaking deep sky photographs. This effect can be used creatively, but sometimes it is an annoyance and can ruin pictures, e.g.
An off-camera setup offers endless creative possibilities, but is less portable than on-camera flash.
You want your subject lit and well defined with the cityscape as a well-exposed, complimentary light source. ISO should be the last resort to getting light in the camera (not that higher ISO is not warranted). Rather, it's just average now, with cameras from the likes of Panasonic still quite a bit faster. Still, it's worth shooting RAW if you're at ISO 800 or 1600 in low light, but don't expect great results at higher sensitivities. The second part of the removal system is a digital system (which needs to be turned on in the Flash Settings menu), which tries to get rid of any redeye that shows up in a photo. The trick to successful night photography is to get much more light into your camera for a decent-looking image, as seen in the image above right. A short lens also enables longer exposure times before stars show trails due to the rotation of the Earth. Even though the night seemed near pitch dark to my eyes, you can see in the picture that there was some light pollution coming from the right. For Canon shooters Magic Lantern provides programmable exposure times in bulb mode, so you don't have to keep the shutter pressed. All is not lost, though -- there's a removal tool in playback mode that was able to get rid of the red, so definitely try that if your flash photos have redeye.
The noise and softness continue to increase at ISO 3200, and I wouldn't even bother with the top setting. Second, though fast lenses give you more light and thus speed up your exposure times, they also crush your DOF. Colors are saturated, subjects are sharp, and noise levels are comparable to the best super zooms in this class (at least at lower ISOs). As you've seen, the SX50 isn't the greatest when the ISO gets to around 800, and the slow lens makes that happen quicker than I'd like. As long as you don't expect the PowerShot SX50 to be the low light champion of the world, you'll probably be happy with what it can do. If you are taking a lot of action or low light shots, then you should probably be looking at the Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ200, with its constant aperture F2.8 lens. While purple fringing occasionally popped up in the photos I took with the SX50, it wasn't nearly bad enough for me to consider it a problem. Increasing the sensitivity will however reduce your picture quality and may still not give you a quick enough exposure to handhold.
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