Whether you’re an amateur photographer who loves to travel, a budding travel photographer or you’re lucky enough to have made a career out of taking pictures, some of the potentially best pictures present themselves at the most inopportune moments. This is why, whatever your reason for taking pictures, it’s always important to have your iPhone on you at all times. Even though the quality of smartphone photography has increased significantly over the last couple years, the cameras in our iPhone, Android and Windows phones aren’t at the level of those cameras professional photographers use. But that doesn’t mean we can’t teach you how to take great yearbook photos using your iPhone. The steadier you are able to keep your phone, the less likelihood for blurry photos or accidentally out-of-focus elements.
Smartphone cameras are getting better at image stabilization, but you don’t want to rely on that technology. Though it may take a few extra moments to place your phone or steady the camera with both hands, either option works far better than aiming with one hand – especially in poor light.
Smartphone cameras feature a digital zoom – something that’s different from a traditional camera lens.
That “zoom” is really just a crop of the photo, meaning you’ll lose data in the photo and end up with an image that is less clear and less sharp than an image that was taking without zooming. If you are looking to get a closer shot using a smartphone camera, do you best to get closer. And, if you’re truly looking for in-uniform action shots, consider using practice, warm-ups or post-game activities as a photo shoot. With Apple’s latest change to its iPhone operating system, it updated the camera software to take up to 10 photos per second.
Whether it is an action shot at the soccer game, the school play or the choir, you’ll never know when a “burst mode” shot will capture something you otherwise might not have. The flashes on smartphone cameras often produce harsh results that look far different than the scene you are experiencing. Instead of using the flash on your phone, use the flashlight on their phone to light the scene.
Instagram’s explosion in popularity has opened up most people’s eyes to the “magic” a filter can provide to photograph. While Instagram is the undisputed leader in popularity, there are several other filter apps that can create different feels for your photos. If you're using an iPhone to take portraits, you likely do not have (nor want) access to a professional lighting studio, but you can still control some aspects that will have a major impact on your photos. I've heard a countless number of people exclaim about a beautiful sunny day being such a great day to go out and take photos.
Most indoor lighting is horrible for photography because cameras struggle with accurately interpreting the colors -- or in photography terms, choosing the correct white balance. Ever notice that in some portraits, the subject's eyes stand out more than in other portraits? The best way to get catchlights with outdoor portraits is to make sure they are posed in a way that allows the light to hit their eyes. Sometimes, all it takes is a simple repositioning of the photographer to transform an image from being a simple snapshot, to being a nice portrait. Posing your subject is definitely one of the hardest things about portrait photography and we could focus an entire article on just this topic alone. Try not to put your subject into specific poses as this often makes them feel awkward which translates into an awkward photo. If your subject isn't directly facing you, frame your shots so that the front of their body is facing the empty space -- or, the two-thirds of the photo that does not have your subject.
Most of the frame will be taken up by the dark sky surrounding the moon, and the result of this is that your camera will expose the scene for the dark sky.
If you’re familiar with ISO and shutter speed settings, you may prefer to use a third-party camera app which will allow you to lock the focus and exposure points separately, as well as selecting an appropriate ISO and shutter speed.
The aim is to use a low ISO to avoid getting a grainy picture, and to use a relatively fast shutter speed to avoid camera shake.
So you might find certain third-party apps that show ISO and shutter speed settings more useful when taking photos of the moon. Long-exposure photography facing the North Star reveals circular pathways as the stars (relative to us) move around the pole.
For star trails, I use the NightCap app because of its ability to take continuous back to back shots at timer-regulated intervals. The app also lets you choose between JPEG, HQ JPEG and TIFF outputs, however the TIFF isn’t available for the continuous burst mode.

You’ll definitely want to use a tripod or prop your phone up on a railing to keep it steady. Star trail purists might give you a hard time for stacking (rather than leaving the shutter open the entire time for seamless trails on a single frame), but there just isn’t a way to manually keep the shutter open for this long on an iPhone. Great right up lead to my purchasing – Havnt tried yet but I will when the darkness comes this evening. I guess you should just read the reviews carefully, unfortunately night photography is not my area of expertise. That’s so little money and the developers have done such good jobs, it’s worth buying both! I use an app called Longexpo and you can set the shutter speed to different speeds and even bulb.
You could try it but your picture might end up over-exposed due to the shutter being open for a long time.
It’s small, portable, handy for all kinds of stuff (even for online casino games) and, if you know how to use it, can take a great quality picture.
While the iPhone may take a picture at a resolution of 5M Megapixels, the zoom function is utterly useless. One of the most effective means of taking a great shot with your iPhone is to keep the composition of the picture as simple as possible. If you’re taking a shot with an image in the foreground, middle ground and background, switch on the grid function and ensure that you apply the rule of thirds when taking the shot; this simple tweak will be transformational to your picture. The “digital” means the camera is actually “zooming in” on the photo itself, not the subject that you are shooting. If you can’t do that (say you’re at a soccer game), think about different photos you might be able to take.
Other smartphones offer the same “burst mode” capabilities and they’re great to use in almost any situation.
The grid will help you align your photo and balance your shot – both of which are especially important when trying new angles and invoking the rule of thirds.
You’ll have better control of the light, create dramatic effects and produce better photos.
It's one of the primary reasons we buy cameras, and it's one of the primary reasons we use our iPhone camera. Lighting, camera level, pose, and the "rule of thirds" we went over last time all play a role.
A big reason for this is because when indoors, you usually have more than one light source (including natural light) and each source may be emitting a different color of light.
Sometimes there is some post-processing involved, but most of the time it was just clever placement of lighting -- and it's so simple.
Given this definition, it should be easy to understand that you want the light source to be somewhere in front of your subject, preferably above eye level, to get the desired results.
Since the light is coming from the sky, make sure your subject is not looking down or wearing a hat that shades the eyes. If done right, portraits shot from above or below the subject can come out rather stunning. For example, if your subject is wearing a Hawaiian shirt, you'll probably want to avoid posing your subject in front of a bunch of palm trees. Our eyes naturally look in the direction that the subject is facing and it feels awkward to the viewer if the empty space is behind the subject.
Practice makes perfect, so solicit your friends, significant others, and if you're feeling brave, strangers, to hone your skill.
With no optical zoom, it seems impossible to use the iPhone for true night sky photography. However, with a few simple solutions you’d be surprised how much fun you can have shooting the night sky with your phone! Because the moon is so small in the field of view, the camera won’t adjust the exposure settings to appropriately expose for the moon. Because the moon is so bright relative to the night sky, what this means in practical terms is that the moon will be over-exposed. The native camera app won’t show you the ISO and shutter speed numbers, so it’s all guesswork. If you take a long exposure photo of the sky, the stars will appear to make light trails or circles. To give the stars enough time to travel a tiny bit between shots, set the interval to around 15-20 seconds. I usually keep mine plugged in so it doesn’t drain the battery too quickly (which can happen in about 10 minutes in the winter).

You basically want to take the brightest pixels from each frame and layer them into the final star trail photo.
So if you lock it under one kind of light and then change the lighting it will keep the previous white point. I’d like to keep the shooting and editing just on my iOS devices as it gives a more seemless workflow.
It sounds obvious, but it’s amazing the number of potentially stunning pictures that are ruined by a lack of recognition about this fact. Don’t choose to shoot an image which has several, highly distinguishable, objects in the foreground. You could capture the sideline reaction to a good play, a more “artsy” shot of the action from behind the goal and other creative takes on a soccer game. Our friends, our families, our children, whether it's for something special like a card or graduation, an event like a trip, a party or, or family get-together, or just a chance encounter, we always have our iPhone with us so we can always grab that perfect portrait of that important person. Direct sunlight is a photographer's worst nightmare -- it provides harsh, unforgiving lighting and makes your subject squint. To improve your indoor portraits, turn off your indoor lights and head to a window or sliding glass door to use as your light source. This is happens naturally when seeking out a light source, like a window, but takes a little thinking on your part when outdoors. If you're photographing a girl with thick bangs, you may consider taking her photo from above and have her look up at you. Again, the goal is for your subject to look natural and comfortable, so try to evoke a natural smile by making them laugh or think of something that makes them happy. Then head over to the Photography Forums, ask questions, share your results, and offer feedback to your fellow iPhoneographers!
In this tutorial you’ll discover some handy exposure tips for improving your iPhone photos of the night sky, as well as how to create wonderful star trail photos. Once you’ve tapped on the screen to set focus, simply swipe down to reduce the exposure. A tripod helps, but might not be necessary especially at faster shutter speeds and if you have a steady hand.
The North Star is the only star that appears to stay in the same place because it’s very close to the north celestial pole above the Earth.
Take back to back photos for at least 20 minutes to see some decent trails – the longer the better! It will lock both the shutter speed and ISO at the same time, and I don’t believe there is a way to lock only the ISO independently. For distance subjects there would be no point in using flash as the light from the flash will only travel a few meters. If you’re just looking to get a good shot, however, you can do one of two things: find a level, sturdy foundation on which to place your phone or hold your phone using two hands. If it's an overcast day, make note of the sun's location and position yourself so it's behind you and in front of the person you are taking photos of. For example, tell your subject to lean against a wall and play with his phone while you respond to an important email.
You’ll see the sun icon on the exposure slider and the image will begin to appear darker as you swipe. But, if it’s properly exposed, you should see differences in dark and light patches on the face of the moon. If, however, you really want to capture a great image, keep your fingers away from the zoom function.
This isn't something you can control, though, so if you find yourself taking portraits on a sunny day, head to a shaded area. And the one I have to constantly remind myself about -- get to higher ground for people who are taller than you. This will result in a completely natural pose because your subject doesn't even realize they are being posed. All you need to do is hold the iPhone above your head, at your subject's eye level, when taking the photo. The screen is big enough for it to still be easy to frame the shot and trigger the shutter.

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