Photographs taken at night can provide a view of place that look spectacular when the night lights are on.
To get the best from your low light shots, there are a few guidelines to follow that you may not typically follow during a daytime shot. As you will be taking photos that require a long exposure time, hand holding the camera to get a sharp image will be virtually impossible, unless you set the ISO to a very high value.
If you must take that shot and you don’t have a fully extensible tripod in your back pocket then use some kind of support. If all else fails and you don’t have a tripod, or any support near by and you must get the shot then bump up the ISO. 2) ISO - Keep your ISO at 100 (or the lowest setting on your camera) to reduce colour noise. Compact cameras will always show a lot of colour noise, for many technical reasons which I will not go into here.
You want decent sharpness and depth of field (DOF – how much is in focus), especially at night.
If you need to take a hand held shot (see Tripod part earlier), then set the aperture to the widest your lens will go and focus on infinity. When the sun just sinks below the horizon, there is about a 30 – 45 minute time line where the light in the sky is changing quite quickly (getting darker). The street lights will start to come on and they haven’t had enough time to warm up to their orange glow! The speed of the shutter, or how long the camera shutter stays open, should be what you use to get the exposure at night. Recommending a starting shutter speed will depend on the time of day and the subject matter. Set shutter speed to 1 second if at the beginning of the Blue Hour, 5 seconds if in the middle and 15 seconds if at the end of the Blue Hour. You really do need to practice these shots because what you will find is that when you look at the images on your computer, they will look darker. There are times when you do want to, or need to, shoot at full night when the sky is black.
I let the exposure burn in for just over a minute to get the London Eye and buildings as sharp objects, then I started zooming the lens, very slowly and continued zooming till the end. The concept and steps are exactly the same as if you are taking a landscape or architectural photograph. Try and compose the view so that the light from a nearby street lamp, or other source, is falling on your portrait subject. Increase your ISO so that the shutter stays open for the least amount of time whilst still getting a decent exposure without too much colour noise and the person is relatively sharp.
By using your camera as a torch, you can light your subject or even light other foreground objects.
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Caption-Abstract:Ambient Light after sunset gives good sky color and city lights in the same scene. However, the scenes with low light conditions and lots of movements are the hardest subjects to photograph; therefore shooting the city at night requires discipline and an understanding in nighttime photography. Night photography is impossible to achieve just by holding your camera, you need a steady base to place your camera.
Once you finished with the camera set up and you’re now good to proceed with night photography, first thing you need to do is to study your scene.
Even though your camera is already mounted on your tripod it is still advisable to set your camera in self-timer or use a remote trigger as this also avoid unnecessary shake when pressing the camera button by hand.
From my experience shooting cityscapes at night (check Stunning Examples of Cityscape Photography), the presence of streaking car headlights and tail lights, the neon street and building lights plus the nighttime available light all conspires to make a nighttime photograph interesting and arresting to the eyes of the viewers.


Experiment with the shutter speed (check Ways to Make the Most of Your Camera’s Shutter Speed), sometimes 10 seconds is enough while some instances you will need a minute long exposure to capture the right feel of nighttime scenes.
Always look out for the interesting angle with enough traffic and background lights which balances the presence of light and compliments the dark spots in the frame. Beautiful Auckland New Zealand !!!!!!!!!!! My family and I came to migrate our feet on this beautiful island New Zealand. One Direction Jumps Not rated yetFor my sixteenth birthday this year, I was in Auckland for the One Direction concert. The lights from the streets and buildings provide a unique atmosphere and highlight the subject matter.
As long shutter speeds are needed for low light photography, the colour noise will get worse over time. For you guys with compact camera’s, look at investing in a computer program to remove as much of the noise when you download to your computer. You may be lucky and get some colour as the light rays from the sun bounces around in the atmosphere and hits warmed gases and dust particles that scatter the light and create that sunset colour.
The longer the shutter is open, the more light that the camera’s sensor will gather over time and therefore the brighter your image will be. What I mean by that is whether you are taking an image during the blue hour or at full night, and whether the scene you are capturing is well lit overall or has very bright areas and dark areas.
I will be constantly tweaking the shutter speed (slowing down or speeding up the time the shutter is open). I check the image on the back of the camera to see if it is bright enough and use a combination of the histogram and highlight alert to tell me how well the exposure is. Set your camera to Aperture Priority and let the camera meter an average for the entire scene and then use Exposure Compensation on your camera to adjust the shutter speed.
The camera is tripod mounted and I change the shutter speed, aperture and ISO in this transition set to try and get the best exposures. It is possible for the light to change slightly from the first to last shot, especially with moving clouds, so be very FAST! There is still some interest left in the sky so you can still get away with taking the shot. Over 3 minutes exposure time with lens zooming thrown in to make it a little more interesting.
The only difference is you have a person in the foreground of the scene which you also wish to expose well.
What you should notice is that the shutter speed would need to stay open for a number of seconds to expose the background well.
They should then be a little brighter than your background scene (due to the inverse square law).
Still set the exposure for the background, but now you want the flash to go off at the end of the exposure time to finally light your portrait subject.
Think of this as the flash going off at the beginning of the timed exposure (first curtain) or at the end (second curtain). The light from a flash is of a different colour temperature to incandescent or street light.
Most smart phones will have an app that causes the screen to glow white and act as a torch. Wait till dark to get the crescent moon alone in dark sky for douple exposure to work properly. The bustling city scape lights and the glowing darkened skies makes up for a very interesting and appealing night photography shots. A platform that shows a clear view of the city scape, with the skyline and the roads visible is a good place to start. Going back to the viewpoint, the ideal place I always look for is somewhere above the ground level, find a stairway or on top of a small building with a balcony or an open space.


Once you have set up your camera, you can start shooting with a shutter speed of at least 15 seconds and try to experiment with various images with longer shutter speeds. To capture engaging streaks of car headlights and bumper lights, search for a spot which offers a great view of a street with a busy traffic. The trails of light that will appear on your photograph are what make city nighttime photography very interesting.
Sometimes, a bit of light works perfectly, so images that are taken just before darkness sets in are a must-try.
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We want you to write and tell us about it and we'll put up your own web page on on Auckland Lifestyle. I am not a supporter of the band myself and was there for my little …Click here to write your own. Your blog is whatever you want it to be.JOE MCNALLY PHOTOGRAPHYInternationally Acclaimed Photographer. That way you are not holding down the shutter for long periods, which reduces any shake and subsequent blur. I change the shutter speed every two minutes or so, typically going slightly longer each time.
Remember that because most of the scene will be dark, the camera will over expose so dial down by 1 stop.
No one can stay perfectly still for even a second so they will appear slightly blurred as they try to stay still.
When the flash goes off at the beginning of the timed exposure the camera will still be gathering picture information of the person after the flash fired.
Perhaps you enjoyed an evening meal in one of the restaurants, took in the views from the top or came down the fast way on the 'Sky Jump'. This will result in some additional image information of the person appearing on top of the person. There is still enough ambient light to make a single-exposure image of the moon and the cityscape, or, as I did in this case, make a double-epoxure.
Although you could shoot very early in the morning when the sun is just about to come over the horizon.
It will be trial and error to take a shot, check if the subject is bright enough, if not then change the exposure compensation and quickly take again. My advice is always colour balance your subject correctly and let the background turn orange. Here, I captured the moon in the first exposure, and waited till dark to shoot the skyline at night. When the flash goes off at the end of the timed exposure, any low light image information that the camera has gathered of the portrait subject will be overwritten (somewhat) by the brighter person that was illuminated by the flash at the end. An alternative is to use a colour balance gel for your flash so that the light from the flash is the same temperature as your background.
Once you think the over-all scene possessed interesting subjects that compliments each other, then you can start shooting your photos. The ambient light at dusk from the first exposure of the moon is what gives the magenta tonality to the overall picture in the final result.
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Comments to «How to take good night city photos review»

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